So my friends 2002 camry has a problem where she shifts the shifter into drive, but the gear position indicator in the cluster still shows her in park, and the car will still be in park with parking pawl engaged. is this a sensor that went out, or a deeper transmission problem to be dealt with?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Camry with (440K Kms) and automatic transmission. I am the second owner and had this car since 130K Kms so I have been driving it for a while. The car was in great condition but recently, the transmission started to give some trouble where it's gear changes were not smooth. Also, when I would come to a complete stop, trany would go into neutral even though I have not touched the gear shifter and it is still in drive.
I had my mechanic drain and fill transmission fluid since it was a bit dirty. A few days later, the car would park with gear box in "P" but no matter which gear I would put the gear shifter into, it would remain in neutral and won't pick up into any gear at all. So, I parked the car on the driveway. Couple of days later I wanted to try to see what the issue was and now, no matter what gear I put the gear shifter into, it stays into park.
This morning as I get in to drive my kid to school (2005 2.7 2 wd auto) as I go to put it in reverse I noticeably have to pull it with some force. I have never had to "force it" before, it had always switched gears with ease. This time it felt very stiff but had no issues going into gear. After I dropped my son off at school I went through the gears up and down and it felt very stiff (at this point i have no issues with starting it or P).
At lunch I go out to get something to eat and when I go to start it up it won't start. I try and try and nothing. All the lights came on, it's not a battery issue at all (brand new). But after 10 tries it starts, so I'm pretty happy. Then I go to put it in gear (reverse) I can not press in the button on the side of the gear shift. It will not go in. I press with all my might and it wont budge. But again, after about 10 good tries at it goes in and I can then select my gear but still feels very stiff.
After stopping again I didn't shut off the engine and dicked around with the shifter basically figured out that my car is not recognizing Park. On the instrument panel each gear lights up but not P. It gets very stiff when trying to put it in P but it doesn't actually go into P. If I put it in P (or really the further up it will go) and shut off the car, it won't start again. I can start it up in N and only N.
Experienced problem with the Automatic locks on the doors? The doors on my camry lock as soon as I move the shifter out of park. The owners manual indicates that I can get the doors to lock automatically at 20 km/hr. I have tried following the instructions in the manual to make this happen but without any success.
View 14 Replies2000 VR6 automatic. Yesterday my car was stuck in park couldn't move the shifter . Figured it was the brake sensor switch when the brake is engaged food pedal lights do not go out, I replaced it this morning but still won't work I've been driving it around in limp mode?
View 4 RepliesI have a 09' 4cyl automatic engine with 54k.
About 30min ago when when I parked the shifter would not move past neutral into reverse and go into park. I can go from D into neutral or the next slot over for manual shifting. Naturally this causes a problem as you can't take the key out of the ignition if its not in park.
I took a screw driver and popped open the cap for the shift release button and used that to move it into park. Turned car off, back on, etc etc seemed fine. So when I tried moving it into reverse and it wouldn't budge. It instead would make a electronic click or snap coming form the steering column but more back toward the engine. Like more into the dash area but back in it. It would make this noise every time I attempted to move it but it wasn't a continuous sound. Just once with each jerk to the side to move it out of park.
So the car works fine except for this. I used it with the screw driver/shift release to unlock it and it drives fine. Goes into reverse and back in park but if I move it into neutral or drive it will not go back into reverse or park.
So lately this has been getting worst. You have to step on the brake before you can shift out of park. Well lately I have to step on the brake a few times before the safety will let you get into gear.
View 7 RepliesMy cousin has a 2007 Ford Taurus with the pushrod 3.0L. It has the console shifter and it is hard to move the shift lever into Park from Reverse. The shifer moves out of park and to every other gear with normal effort. The gear indicator correctly displays the shifter position. It drives/shifts perfectly fine. The only problem is that it is hard to move the shifter from Reverse into Park. It feels like there is a rubbery, or somewhat mushy threshold/resistance that needs to be overcome with a moderate amount of effort to get the shifter into park. Once the shifter is in Park it feels normal meaning you don't have to hold or force the shifter to stay in park.
It is frustrating because it seems most other people have a problem with the shfiter being hard to move from Park to Reverse or Neutral, but she is having the opposite issue. Will it hurt the car to keep shoving the shifter into park when necessary without getting it fixed?
While traveling I made a fuel stop. Restarted engine fine, stepped on brake, but could not move the shifter out of Park. Towed to Ford dealer, after extensive trouble shooting replaced shifter cable and transmission position sensor. A week later same problem but glad I learned about the interlock override lever on the steering column so can continue to drive. It locks up several time a day. Here's what I know and observe.
. brake light switch appears to be normal
. engine starts normally
. brake lights operate normally
. fuse on interlock function is ok
. when the lockup happens the shift indicator is missing the box over the P
. this may not relate but backup/reverse lights operate very weird - in reverse they only light when the engine in rev'd and go out when the gas pedal is released
There appears to be a gremlin in this Escape that eludes Ford and me. I read some reference to a computer control involved in the interlock function. I'm at a loss.
The shifter goes into the incorrect gear for what is showing on the dash.
For example:
A little left of Park = Park
Park=Reverse
Reverse/Neutral/Drive = Neutral
A little right (almost gear 2) of Drive = Drive
Once I have found the gear and the shifter is set, the handle has enough play in it that allows it to rest over the correct slot.
It started after I put the car into neutral from drive without pulling the handle back but instead just pushing it to the left. When I went to put it back into drive, it was still in neutral.
I drive a 2008 Chevrolet Impala. The car has had some electrical problems going back about a year and a few months that I have neglected to fix. The first problem was with the shifter not being able to move out of park without hitting the button inside the center console to do a shift lock override, which started last August.
The second problem was with the ignition not being able to release the key without hitting a switch inside the ignition, which started back in the Spring. I have just been rolling along promising to eventually address those, but yesterday the car radio stopped functioning. Then this morning the car would not start.
The electrical system comes on just fine (save the radio), but when I go to start it the car just clicks over. I did not leave any lights or switches on, so I am assuming it must be some sort of problem with the electrical system.
I need removing the console on a 2005 Malibu Max. The switch on the shifter will not move the transmission down to 2nd or 1st gear. There was a post by "shadow5599" on 05-05-2009 stating that this problem was caused by a broken wire in the harness under the console leading to the shifter +/- switch. He said it was easy to fix but the console needed to be removed. Later on the same day he posted that he had just posted the instructions on how to remove it. I'm a first time user on this site and I haven't been able to locate those instructions.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2004 2.0L Jetta with a 5 Speed manual transmission.
When shifting into third gear sometimes I push the shifter forward and it does not want to move all the way forward. It feels like I am pushing the shifter knob against a wall, or more accurately the bottom of the shift that pulls the cables feels like it is hitting a wall. If I pull it back out and press it in hard it will go into place sometimes.
This also solves the problem: While the shifter is mid shift into third, at the wall/ at the point of resistance, I let off the clutch slightly to give the flywheel some friction. This rolls the transmission a bit and allows third gear to slide into place.
I have experience with a MK4 Audi TT 1.8T that cam with a 6-SPD and it at had a 1-2 and 2-3 synchronizer issue (The one where the nipples are worn and it grinds at higher RPMS because they can no longer make a firm handshake). The issue I am experiencing is not that.
Could it be the transmission cables? Could it be some other cogs in the transmission? - If so does this mean I need to buy a used one? My car has 180K miles on it with the original clutch.
Here is what I have:
2009 Santa Fe 3.3L AWD
70k KMs / 43k Miles
Temp has been very cold, -20C / -4 F
Car starts up without any problems. Try to put car in Reverse and the shifter is very hard to move, if it moves at all. When I am able to get it into Reverse, I then try to put it in Drive and it does not "engage" the "D" and the car behaves like its in Neutral. Moving the shifter back to Park, Neutral, Drive is very difficult and sometimes it will not go into Park. The dash lights do not illuminate the selected P, R, N, D.
However, once the car is warmed up (no longer on C on the temperature gauge) I can with a little effort move the shifter freely (but more effort than it should take) and the car behaves normally. Gear shifts are smooth and in general it is operating normally.
The dash lights do illuminate the selected P, R, N, D. I've checked the Trans fluid level and it appears to be normal and was planning to change it this w-e but I'm no longer sure it will work. Even if it has never been changed.
Also note that I have recently changed a wheel/hub bearing due to a noise that sounds a lot like loud tires on a highway. The bearing change did not eliminate the noise and I assumed that I've changed the wrong one. The noise does not appear to be coming from the Trans, but I cant be 100% sure. The noise is speed related and occurs only after about 20KM/h 16MPH. Unsure if they are related..
Got in to go to work this am, and the gear shifter was difficult to move. What to check?
I drove 70 miles to work and didn't seem like any issues with the transmission shifting.
Got in to go to lunch and it seems even more difficult to move...
Shifting back and forth in the selector seems to loosen things up a little.
A friend move the selector while I looked at the linkage and the bracket that support the cable is flexing while shifting between gears....More likely a transmission issue or something with the linkage?
My 2004 expedition wont go into any gear the shifter will not move I changed the stop light brake switch and a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown and also the check engine light is on now too this was after I parked it I also changed a 30 amp buss fuse I found blown out but it still don't work the only way I can get it into gear is to push the little button under steering wheel...
View 2 RepliesMy Drl indicator light did not show on the dash when I drive in a sunny day(Auto Switch), but it show up when it dusk.
View 11 RepliesMy 2000 ford excursion gauges fuse keeps popping. It started earlier this year and I couldn't pin point when it would pop. Now I'm sure after 30.00 worth of fuses that it happens when I change the gear shifter from park or rev to drive.
View 5 RepliesI own a 2012 Toyota Camry LE (TCLE), and recently I've noticed that the "instrument cluster" shows "MAINT REQD" warning light on for more than a few seconds when I start the car. All other warning lights do turn off while the "MAINT REQD" is still ON for a few seconds more than I usually remember. This car has about 25K miles, and I bought it with 19K miles. Should I take it to a dealer for a check up? By the way, I was waiting until the end of February to take the car for a oil change, but I am now concerned with this stupid WARNING light
View 14 RepliesMy mom has a 2016 Sonata that recently has started experiencing some issues with the gear shift. A few weeks back my stepdad was not able to get the gear shift to move out of park. Finally, my step brother did get it to go into drive, but then could not get back into park (he could only get into neutral), so my mom took it to have it looked at. While at the dealer someone there was able to get the gear shift to work and we thought everything was okay. That was until today when my stepdad could not get it out of park again. I noticed today that button on the shift knob was fully depressed while in park. I did attempt to use the shift lock release per the instructions in the manual with no luck.
My mom is going to call Hyundai in the morning to see what they can do for her, as the car is parked at minimart right now.
I have a Santa Fe Style CRDI Auto from 2011 which is not covered by Warranty and has only done 6000 miles.
The problem is that the Gear Stick Won't Move from the 'Park' position (with the engine on and brake fully pressed down).
There have been issues over the last couple of weeks where it was difficult to move the gear stick at times but it was fine after waiting a few seconds. Now it seems completely stuck.