Camry :: 2003 XLE - Bumping / Grinding Noise From Driver Front After Sitting Overnight In The Cold?
Mar 28, 2013
After my 2003 Camry XLE sits overnight in sub 36 degree weather, get this random grinding and popping noise. Eventually this noise dissipates, I believe as the parts around the wheel get warmer. I have had the car in the shop a couple times now, and the mechanics are never able to figure out the noise. They are convinced that it is suspension related, but I am fairly certain it isn't. I get the same noise on smooth roads and at very slow speeds.
It feels like it is bearing related, or perhaps brakes, but I am not a mechanic. I am guessing. I do know it is related to the spin of the wheel rather than the up and down motion of the suspension.
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My 2007 Civic Hybrid is having trouble starting. This happens when it's cold out, it's been sitting outside overnight (I don't have a garage), and the IMA battery is low. I've taken it to the dealership but they were not surprisingly no luck. The car has about 65,000 miles and a new battery - the one in front - was put in not too long ago and tests fine.
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I just bought 2011 Camry 2.5 6auto with 57k miles on it. The car make a rattle noise for a second or so on a cold start when sets overnight. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they replaced the timing gear assembly under warranty. This morning when I started the car in the morning it made the same rattle noise. I am going to take it back to the dealer next week.
My question is has any one had this rattle noise? if so, did the noise go away after the dealer replaced the cam gear? Also, Do you think this rattle will affect the engine in the long term?
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I have a 2002 2.4L Camry with 120K miles. I plan to keep it for another 10 years so want to get it in better shape. All I've done so far is air filters and changing the oil. I did let oil changes go way too long a few times then at 70K miles started emitting blue smoke only at startup after sitting overnight. It looks like valve stem seals so the engine uses oil now but it's tolerable and I really need to avoid spending big bucks unless there's a breakdown.
I've read about a procedure to replace the valve stem seals without removing the head using compressed air, but am a bit scared to try it for fear I will get in over my head.
I'm planning on getting up to date on all recommended inspections, changing spark plugs, coolant, air filter and cabin filter and plan on changing the oil from conventional over to 10w30 synthetic w/ subsequent 5,000 mile intervals from now on. I'm in a better financial situation now so can afford parts but want to try to do all labor myself unless a mechanic is necessary for something extremely important or critical.
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Have been noticing my 2003 SantaFe "coughing" on startup after sitting typically overnight or longer. Started noticing this after I went to Royal purple synthetic on an oil change. Started useing Mobil One synthetic and I am hearing the same thing. For a millisecond after I start it up after it has been sitting overnight or longer a quick "cough" kind of a sound that quickly goes away. No other problems apparent.
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I have a 98 F150. The motor was replaced three months ago and have had no problems until now. The truck had trouble starting so i put an alternator on it. Fixed for a while and then it started blowing fuel relay fuses. I replaced fuel pump and filter. Truck has trouble starting after sitting overnight. When I am driving and floor it, once it hits about 4,000 rpms, the truck bucks like its the transmission but the rpms drop and then pick back up. Fuel pressure is right where its supposed to be.
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I have a 2003 ford escape V6 and i have notice when i start it' after setting overnight i notice some blue smoke for a little while then it's stop What could be causing this.
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I hear & feel a knocking sound when i brake and come to a stop & when i am accelerating and moving at slower speeds. I had both my front & back brakes replaced in the recent past and the brake oil also changed. I still hear the noise and vibration. This issue get all the more prominent when the roads are wet and its raining.
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2008 Touring model. When I encounter relatively small bumps, like, sealant over cracks on asphalt pavement, expansion joints, etc. there is a bumping noise from the front, seemingly the left, which I can feel through the steering wheel. The car handles and rides fine thus I am suspicious that it is a shock/strut issue, but I take note replacement is recommended at 60K miles. Mine has almost 120K.
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ON smooth highway at varying speeds I can hear a rhythmic bumping/thumping noise from the front end of our 2008 Limited with 26,000 miles. It is speed sensitive but I can't tell if it would be a wheel bearing going bad or tire noise from the stock Michelins or maybe one out of balance though I don't feel anything as much as I hear something. I guess I can take it to dealer to see if they can diagnose
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OK so I'm driving a 2000 Toyota Camry. For the last few months it's been making a noise, kind of like a knocking/helicopter type noise, increasing with speed, and it's coming from the passenger side. Not sure if it's the front or the back. The Walmart tire guy said I needed an alignment in front.
At moderate speeds (30-40 mph), you can still hear it, barely. At highway speeds, it's really noticeable. It's really loud around 60 MPH with some mild vibration felt on the dash and in the seat, but interestingly enough, it's less noticeable at 70 MPH. Going around curves, it gets louder/more intense with curves to the left, and gets softer (or goes away) with curves to the right.
So, I posted this on Facebook, and a couple of people replied thinking it's a wheel bearing, most notably the front right. So, I jacked the car up and tried wiggling all 4 tires (like it says to do to check for this), but none of the tires wiggle.
To save money at the shop, what I want to do is buy the bearing or hub assembly if needed, and take it to the shop to have them put it on. Before I buy a part I don't need, I want to be sure. Does this sound like a wheel bearing issue?
I don't hear any humming, and the noise/vibration is unaffected by braking.
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I recently had TSB 0146-10 ( grinding noise at cold start ) performed and my cold starts are even louder now. My dealer screwed it up 2 times and I have to return again due to this noise, leaking valve covers, and lots of metal filings found in oil and filter? It seems to me Toyota has a big issue with the VVT cam gear on this engine and wanted to post a video of my cold start?
My vehicle is a 2010 RAV4 with the 2AR-FE ( 2.5 ltr ).
This is after 2 cam gear replacements and the dealer confirmed this to be the sound of a bad VVT gear.
YouTube
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At this point I'm baffled. I've been hearing a grinding/rattling noise from the driver side wheel well for a couple months now. I was positive it was being caused by a bad hub, but the problem persists. Here is what I've done so far:
replaced brake pads and rotors -- twice; once before the hub went bad and once after. The bad hub warped the driver side rotor and afterwards passenger side would not stop squealing for some reason. replaced faulty wheel hub -- The bearing was totally shot, nearly 20* of play in it, should be totally rigid replaced faulty CV axle -- I suspect vibration from the bad hub destroyed the outboard CV joint, making popping/grinding noise while turning or going over bumps filled front differential -- it was a bit low on gear oil The grinding/rattling noise shows up when driving at freeway speed (around 55mph) and gets more pronounced as speed increases. The truck does not do this under acceleration but after speeding up, the rattling is the worst at light throttle (around 2k-2.5k RPM, in 4th gear/overdrive above 55mph).
I noticed that if I shift into neutral at freeway speed, the noise continues until the truck decelerates.
So at this point my thoughts are that it could be a bad differential, but I doubt it because the noise is almost imperceptible in the passenger seat. It could be a bad differential bearing on the drivers side (sounds like a worn out bearing to me). It could be any number of things in the transfer case or transmission.
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Had my wheel bearings replaced 3 weeks ago from a mechanic I never went to, as mine was on vacation. 3 days later tire fell off while driving. So we took it to my regular mechanic and had all safety issues fixed. New brakes, rotor, hub. But noticed that a grinding noise appeared. Took it back to mechanic, and he said that it was due to the spindle being slightly bent. Thst it wasnt a safety concerns, but will cause rotor/ brakes to wear out quicker.
I'd like to trust my mechanic, as he has always done good work for me in the past. But am a little shaky over every noise. I'd he correct?How soon should I get it repaired? I just dropped over $600 to get the can drivable again. So if I can push it off until I can afford it that would be great! Otherwise, I might need a small loan to repair.
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I drive a 2002 Protege5 with about 125K miles. The suspension (struts and mounts) and brakes have been recently replaced and, with the arising of the Mystery Noise, checked by a mechanic as of last week. The noise sounds like a creaking or bumping in the front end of the vehicle, and comes primarily when slowing to a stop, when the brakes are applied or not. The pace slows as you stop. And it is not always predictable: the mechanic could not recreate the noise, but my wife and I hear it all the time.
I'm just speculating, but should we be looking at the bearings, axles, CV joints... or is this going to get even more expensive? What should I ask the mechanic to look at on this thing?
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I start noticing a weird noise upon cold start up. It sounds like something is grinding. First goes starter sound and then engine noise together with this grinding noise. Grinding noise goes away within sec. or so. It is not really loud, but it definitely not engine or starter sound.
It happens only on cold starts when engine is completely cold. If I start engine, let it run for few minutes, shut it down and restart again, it starts without grinding noise. Don't remember if car was doing it from beginning, never turned car while I was outside. Few weeks ago when temperature dropped below freezing point, I turned ignition through passenger door to warm up the engine.
After that I begun listening every start up. Every start up same noise. Every morning and every time after work I hear this noise. No noise if car been driven recently or engine is still warm.
Not my car, but sound is identical : [URL] ......
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My 2005 Camry makes a bumping/rattling noise that seems to originate from the right-rear part of the vehicle. The noise sounds whenever I drive over even a small (mild) rough patch or over a dip. I have pulled the tire and checked suspension parts to ensure they are tight and that the muffler is well secured. The tire is fine. Nothing seems to be loose. What might be causing it?
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I have a 1996 Honda Accord (automatic) with just over 149,000 miles. In the 5 years since I've owned it it's required little more than some new spark plugs and tune up. I currently drive about 30 miles a week, but starting tomorrow I'll be driving much, much more to a new job. Living in Chicago with awful potholes, salt, and traffic, I'm concerned about what may happen in the near future...
I've been getting a grinding noise on the front driver side for years and have never fixed it and never noticed a change...I know it's the tie rod ends/ball joints. I've been warned that the wheel could come off, and as much as I believe them and don't want this to happen, nothing has ever happened. Is this something to do since there has been no change in symptoms or car performance in a couple years?
Other than that, any tips for keeping the car in good, working order? I do oil changes, but are they really necessary every 3000 miles? I have to make it last as long as possible and actually love the car anyway!
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First off I have a 2009 F150 4wd 4.6L truck...we have noticed a grinding noise on the front driver side wheel...we have replaced the auto locking hub acuator and the hub assembly but the noise is still there....it has us puzzled now not sure what it could be. I have read many different threads on this issue an it seems that it might be something to do with the vacuum. The noise is only on the driver side and only in 2wd, when its in 4wd it doesn't make the noise at all. Also while in 2wd the noise seems to go away when we let off the gas.
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A year ago I heard occasional metal grinding noise coming from the front, sounding like front driver side. Sounded like CV joints that I heard before. The mechanic said it's transfer case/transmission problem, so I replaced the transmission but the noise came back a few days later. The mechanic said to drive it for a while and the noise may go away, if getting worse he can fix it since it has 2-year warranty.
Now a year later the noise becomes predicable and easily reproducible, I went back and asked them to check. They said it may be passenger side axle. I am feeling being manipulated.
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My wife's car has a grinding type noise (like a key being burnished on a grinding wheel, but lower in pitch). We've had our regular mechanic check the braking system and he finds no irregularities and also says that he didn't see any loose items underneath the engine area. The sound wasn't one of the ones on your excellent 'noises' list, however. The noise comes from the driver side at the front of the car. The car is 2002 Honda Accord LX with 135,000 miles on it. The transmission was replaced under warranty at 70,000 miles.
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