Camry :: 2006 / Brakes - Intermittent Sinking Pedal?
Mar 25, 2016
2006 Camry, intermittently the brake pedal sinks by going a inch or so further than normal. Car still stops and I don't think it is all the way at the floor. It is not very frequent, maybe 5% of the time. When it does occur it always happens on a second pump while slowing to a stop or turn, so the car is always going below 10 mph when it occurs.
Mechanic can find nothing wrong with the brakes themselves or any air in the lines. The fluid level is stable. I am guessing it is either the master cylinder or booster. Is there a way to diagnose which one it might be? Could it be a vacuum leak due to only showing up at low speed?
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I have only 42k km or 26 k miles. Brake stops but soft. The brake pedal sink if you apply pressure after a stop. Feels like someone open a valve. The pedal go to very low. I am find the stopping power is poor. Brake fluid is brownish. I hope it is not the master cylinder.
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1995 Ford F350 4x4, 7.3 Liter Diesel, A/T, A/C
The brake pedal gradually sinks to the floor while the truck is running while stepping/holding down the brake pedal, then the red brake light comes on in the instrument cluster. When the trucks engine is not running I could pump the pedal to clear the vacuum booster and hold the brake pedal, it stays steady.
So far I have replaced the vacuum pump and brake booster. I also readjusted the rear brakes. The truck stops fine, but the sinking brake pedal just doesn't sound safe.
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I don't know whats up with my new truck, its a 04 f250 scsb, 4x4, 5.4l with 61k orig miles on it. Truck will stop on a dime, has NO pedal sinking, but it takes about 3/4 of the pedals travel to apply pressure to the pads and have the truck stop, sometimes if I push the pedal down then let up and push it again the pedal wont travel as far, I just flushed the system today, no air in the lines, is there a bleeder on the abs? truck has 4 wheel abs...
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I've had this problem ever since the car was new but it's starting to get MUCH worse The brake pedal travels a lot before it seems to engage I just got an oil change done at the dealership who also flushed the trans fluid and told me my rear brakes had 0mm left
I came home and replaced the brakes, they had Nothing left Also replaced the rotors while I was at it, put everything together and the pedal is still soft Took it back to a dealership and they said it's normal and that a brake flush / bleed wouldn't do anything Pads were replaced with Duralast semi - metallic and rotors were Duralast
Now a couple things I noticed when I replaced the brakes:
1 - The slide pins were seized I cleaned them with brake cleaner, lubed them and they seem to slide now Rubber seals also seem fine Good enough or replace the caliper mount / pins?
2 - The brake pads sit on the caliper in this metal groove All other cars I've worked on, the pads can slightly slide These pads are jammed in place on these pins I cleaned them with brake cleaner, took a wire brush to them until they looked new, lubed them and pads slide with force but for the most part are jammed in place
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Two days ago I had the front brake pads on my 2003 Toyota Camry LE replaced because they were squeaking when I stopped. That squeak stopped, but after driving about 15 miles, I heard a squeaking noise AFTER I took my foot OFF the brake pedal. Pressing the pedal makes the squeak go away. I took the car back the next day and they changed the front rotors. While driving home, the squeak returned. I took the car to my regular mechanic this time. He says the guys who installed the brakes didn't clean anything when they put the new ones on, so he disassembled everything, cleaned the rotors, etc. and put everything back together. He also said they put the wrong pads on the car - I need ceramic pads and they used the metallic kind. Well, the brakes are still squealing when I'm not pressing on the brake pedal and stop squealing when I do press it.
Characteristics of the squeak....It only seems to happen when I drive the car more than 5-10 miles. When I drive a short distance, it doesn't happen. The sound is rhythmic, not constant. If I step on the brake and let if off slowly, like at a stop light, I can hear it "squeak, squeak, squeak" as the tire rotates. The faster the wheel spins, the more constant the sound. It only seems to come from the driver's side.
I hate to take the car back to the original shop because I don't think they know what they're doing. I'm scared of getting ripped off at one of the big chains (I'm a female and of course whenever I take a car in for service at one of those places "everything needs to be replaced.")
Will Toyota ceramic pads fix the problem? Can the wrong pads cause the brakes to squeak when you're not stepping on the brake pedal? Someone else suggested it might be the caliper binding and that would require replacing it.
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I've had my Accent for a year and a half and now it has about 23k miles on it. I noticed that whenever I would apply the brakes, and the lift my foot off the pedal, I would hear a squeak . . . kind of like a squeaky door. It would happen every time I would lift off the brake pedal. At first, I thought it was the pedal itself, then I rolled down the window and realized it was coming from my rear drums.
So I took the rear drums off which was a PITA to get them off, and used some brake cleaner and white lithium grease on the backing plates of the shoes and on the springs, and the squeak is gone!
I suspect this is probably an issue with drums since it's a relatively closed system and brake dust tends to accumulate in there. Any good technique to remove the rear drums, other than using a hammer to tap it loose?
Here's a pic of the rear brakes with the drum off.
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I have 2006 Pontiac Torrent AWD with front disc and rear drum brakes. My ABS & traction control lights come on together (sometime) when I hit brakes slowly to slow down my car around 20-30km/h with a grumbling/scraping feeling sent to my feet from brake pedal (feel like rumble strip on highway). ABS & T/C lights go away if I shut off engine and restart car. It also happens if I accelerate at that speed. This issue does not happen when I hit brake hard.
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My 2006 V6 Camry XLE feels like there is a delay between hitting the pedal and the car accelerating. I also notice it bucks (changes gears at the wrong time) occasionally when pressing the pedal than backing off of it a little. The hesitation has always been there but lately its been really bothering me because I drove someone else car (Hyundai Sonata 4 cylinder )and felt how smooth it accelerated and how responsive it was at lower speeds. I know this car has drive by wire which probably has something to do with the problem. How to alleviate this issue? I don't think there's anything mechanically wrong.
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I have a 2004 Ford Expedition and today on the freeway I had to step on the brakes pretty hard to avoid an accident. After pressing, the pedal resistance became really soft and the brakes worked, but were very sensitive (a lot of pedal movement to brake). I had this happen some time ago and I did a complete system flush and no problems since then, but it has to do with how hard I hit the brakes. What could be wrong????? BTW - I never noticed the anti-lock brake pedal pulse at all during this event. I'm not even sure it is working at this point. No dash lights to indicate an error of any sort.
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I have a 97 F250 that is having reoccurring brake issues, It has an intermittent hard pedal with little to no brakes when it occurs. It will stop but you are standing on the pedal with both feet. I have replaced the booster, master cylinder, and the vacuum pump in the past trying to isolate the issue and still had the problem. On this year model the abs ids only on the rear correct???? if it is shouldn't it only be affecting the rear brakes? Since this truck has a dual reservoir MC the front should still work?
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If this was my car or older truck I would know what the deal was. First hill I came down in my recently bought 2003 F250 the pedal pulsed a bit as I tried to slow down...is this the way ABS brakes behave? Never had them on a truck before...she stopped ok but don't know if they are warped or normal ...I'll pull wheels later (not a daily driver)...
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2006 Camry LE 4cyl ABS no stability control, rear drum brakes. The brakes stop the car, but the pedal does go to the floor and it doesn't brake with confidence.
Prior to the repairs everything looked normal (aside from one wheel cylinder, see pic) and there was no leakage. The fluid was at the proper level though dirty.
I replaced the master cylinder and did a complete fluid flush and bleed. I also changed the front pads (it was time anyway) and the passenger side brake hose. I was going to to both hoses, but I wound up snapping the steel line on the PS and spent most of the day dealing with that. I decided not to press my luck with the DS.
I might change the DS hose, since I already bought it. At this point the only thing left is a weak caliper or wheel cylinder seal, or a bad hose (though I don't see any visible bulging when brakes are applied).
My wife was driving on the freeway last week and she applied brakes but they barely stopped the car and the brake light came on. She was able to limp it home without incident but the brake light stayed on and the car was braking poorly. The next day I inspected everything and found no leaks, and the fluid was not low but it was dirty. I drove the car and noticed braking performance was lacking (though it was never great to begin with) but I never saw a brake light. The brake light isn't on at this point.
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After putting my Ford Ranger in park and pressing down on the E-break to get the news-paper or mail. I've noticed that there is a consistent squeaking coming from the back drum brakes when the brake pedal is applied. But only for a certain period of time; then the squeaking stops.
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Independent mechanic replaced brakes and rotors on my 2006 Camry LE with NAPA parts. All was fine for a week or two but now I'm getting a squeak when I apply the brakes. Mostly this is at low speed. the squeak varies in loudness and length and does not happen all the time. Also after repeated stops, the brakes will grind at the tail end of braking (right before the car comes to a complete stop).
Stopping distance is not affected nor is there any vibration. I plan to take it back to the mechanic later this week but what the issue could be?
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Intermittently, when I apply the brakes my car makes a wet, gurgling sound, as if I'm driving over wet rocks. My husband jacked up the car and said he sees something on the front axle CV on the right side, not on left, and said it looks like a bushing bearing. He said the brakes have zero grit and he let them spin under power (I'm relating what he told me as best I can, he's mechanical, I am not). I also have a rack and pinion leak, though small, he's worried about the hydroloic (sp?) assist going out. I can't say I know what any of this means, but he can't figure out why my car occasionally makes this terrible sound. I haven't noted any specific condition for the noise.
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I just bought an 05' Touareg a month ago, and already put 6,000+ miles on it (drove it to CO from PA, and back for a snowboarding trip), and im loving it.The CD player already stopped working (already being replaced), but the thing that is driving me nuts is the front seats, ESPECIALLY the driver seat.
I am 5'8" and prefer to have it at the highest adjustment (again, manual seats), or near the top at least. However, i have to put it all the way up just to know if its where i left it because it keeps SINKING back down. It averages about 1 pump per day, and more if I'm driving it a lot (because there is more weight on it). I took it to the dealer and they cannot reproduce it because they are only willing to wait around for an hour. I am going to have to leave it overnight, untouched, for a few nights just to prove it to them... which sucks because I shouldn't have to. I am not imagining things, and why would i make this up.
I hadn't adjusted it back up in a few days, and it took 10 pumps to get it back to the top where i put it in the first place! I am the only one that drives it, and no, someone isnt playing tricks on me. However, I hope not because my worst fear is that they replace it, and that its just a bad design and it still does it. EVEN MY PASSENGER SIDE SEAT DOES IT! just not as bad, or maybe it does I just don't know because I am not using it (driving of course). That is a weird coincidence if you ask me... so I am worried its just a poor rachet design. If so, I am not leaving there til i get electronic seats. I already have the service manager involved because the service rep tells me he doesn't know what to fix. Again, these are manual seats, not electronic... so its nothing to do with those memory buttons you electronic guys have.
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2000 v6 manual wagon with +-90k. Brutally lowered with KW coils. First thing I noticed was the clutch pedal slowly getting lower and lower to the floor when fully released. Besides the pitch getting shorter, it seems to work fine, no slipping at all. It now sits a couple inches closer to the floor than the other pedals.
I am also getting a couple other things that may or may not relate to the clutch. It started out as a vibration under acceleration, getting worse over about a month or so. Now it is also starting to clunk when pressing or releasing the gas while the clutch is released. It also clunks when moving from a stop, although I can regulate this with the clutch.
I am thinking it is a motor mount causing the clunking and vibrating, and maybe the engines movement has caused the clutch to come out of alignment?? I am unsure where to start, which mount to check, etc.
I also just had my oil pan replaced after slamming the ground recently. Although the problems were starting before this, I am sure this wasn't exactly good for the motor mounts....
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I noticed a pulsating feeling when I applied the brakes in my 2001 Ford Focus. I figure that it might be warped rotors, but after driving the car for a while, it seems to have dissipated. The car was sitting around for a few weeks. I read that it could just be rust buildup, but I feel that would require more than a few weeks of sitting around. Is there any way to check for myself, short of taking off the rotor?
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I have a 2003 Subaru Forester, bought it this past January. Got 163,000 miles on it, and we've driven it mostly around town. Over the last month, it has developed an intermittent problem with stalling and rough "putt-putt" running, and will only keep running if the gas pedal gets pumped. This seems to happen about every other time we turn it on, but without a pattern. It can be running fine, and then switch mode, as it were, to running rough and tending to stall. I've gotten ignition codes (check engine light came on and I had my guy check it out on the computer) twice. My mechanic (a long-term Subaru mechanic) has checked out the injectors, and replaced the head gasket, but the problem has not changed. I'm thinking that this may be an electronics issue or possibly something in the gas tank/line.
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Today I was going to launch my new boat and when I backed down the ramp, the brake went to the floor almost sinking the truck. Long story short, the brake line that runs along the frame to the rear brakes rusted through at a bend that I couldn't see. Seems the line is about 8 feet long. What I'd like to know is can I replace it without dropping the fuel tank which of course I just filled yesterday and can I obtain one at a ford dealer or will I have to order one. My truck is my only transportation.
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