Camry :: 2007 - Bad Shake / Thump When Braking
Jul 18, 2013
My gf's best friend has a 2007 Camry 2.4L sedan. Automatic trans if it matters. Has a really bad shake/thump when braking so I'm thinking it has warped rotors. She had brakes done by "some place" a year or so ago and I think they may have over tightened the lug nuts or something. She's also hard on brakes...and cars in general.
Ordered the Powerstop rotors and pads kit from RockAuto (non-performance setup, ceramic pads and regular rotors) and will be working on it soon.
Any link to the service manual or a place where I can get information on doing a brake job?
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I have a 2002 Camry, and recently on the passenger side towards the front wheel there has been a fairly persistent thump or clunk when I brake at low speeds (i.e. immediately before a full stop). I took it to my local mechanic yesterday to see if he could figure it out, and unfortunately he wasn't, although he did point out that my dog bone was cracked and suggested changing that out. Afterwards, the thump/clunk did seem to be more subdued, but it's still obviously there.
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First issue I noticed was the brake pedal/steering vibrating - my assumption was "warped" rotors (I use warped in quotations so that this does not turn into a discussion on whether or not rotors can warp.) I checked the front and the rotors and pads seem fairly new, the back pads were pretty much gone so I replaced those. Reduced the problem somewhat. Yes I still need to do the rotors but would rear rotors that are warped cause that much shaking?
Next issue I had noticed was that for a while that the car would shake somewhat when accelerating usually going up hills or when the car is under strain. Then I noticed that when I had the car fully loaded with passengers it would shake fairly noticeably when accelerating every time.
I thought the problem may be worn plugs since it seemed to come from the engine, well after 2 days and many hours of work not the problem.
By the way I bought the car only a few months ago and have very few service records so not too sure what has or has not been done. The lady did keep up with the maintenance though.
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I got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
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If the front rotors are warped would I not feel it when braking anytime and not just braking hard at high speed?
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry SE V6 with 201,000 miles on it. My problem is that when the vehicle is idling it is smooth as can be, but when I begin to accelerate or even floor the gas pedal, the car begins to violent shake and feels like it is about to fall apart. I just had new front and rear brake pads and rotors put on yesterday. The tires have about 6,000 miles on them and does not need to be aligned.
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For the past few months when the vehicle is cold (by "cold" I dont mean physically cold, just mean it has been sitting all night in my driveway and it's still 90+ degrees outside) and I start driving, I seem to have this shimmy or shake in the tires/steering/steering wheel. Once my car seems to "warm up" (driving a mile or two) it goes away and my car is extremely smooth.
Could it be tires (I've tried rotating)? Suspension? Wheel bearings? I'm lost for even imagining what it could be. I don't believe it is engine/trans related, as it idles/revs just fine and shift perfectly...
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2004 Explorer XLT, 4wd, 60k on the odometer, brake pads and rotors replaced about a year ago. When coming to a stop, usually a harder stop, Im getting a resounding "thump" in the floor. I can also definitely feel it in the brake pedal. Its like something is binding up and then letting go. Seems to be coming from mid-vehicle. What this could be?
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My 2000 v10 w/194K has developed an intermittent shake when braking. Severity from mild to severe. Had the problem earlier, suspected the rotors - replaced front rotors and pads with EB slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads. It was fine for a couple of months, now its back. Replaced the slide pins last night (they were in good shape, replaced anyway). Where to look next?
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So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
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Yesterday I had the rear rotors turned and installed some akebono brake pads. I drove it around and it sounded fine. Today my wife drove it to school and called me telling me whenever she came to a stop she would hear clunking noise in the back of the car. I drove it and its true.
I took off the tires again and all 4 bolts are tight on each side. I didn't know the torque specs so I tightened them enough yesterday. I applied the proper synthetic grease on the slide pins, the back of the pads and where the pads touch the caliper bracket.
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When I bought my X, the front end would periodically shake and pull to the right.
I recently redid the front brakes on my X. Replaced everything except the rotors; they looked okay. That fixed it pulling to the right and fixed the shaking somewhat, but it still shakes when I apply the brakes.
I don't feel it through the pedals. It's all up front, too. You can see the steering wheel shaking really bad.
What I'm thinking is maybe it's my tie rod ends? I think my front brakes were locking up and causing the shake to happen all the time. I think when I fixed that, it made it to where the shake only happens under braking. This makes me think it's the tie rod ends, or something else loose up there. I recently replaced the ball joints, too.
Or could it be the rear rotors? I just want to make sure I'm close before I start throwing parts at it!
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I have a 2007 camry LE with 60,000 miles. About 600 miles prior to the next due oil change, I started seeing a flashing oil pan sign on the left corner of the dashboard while braking (only while braking).
I did not figure out the reason and might have run another 100 miles before taken to the dealer. Dealer found no oil on dipstick. He says the engine might be burning oil and I might end up spending few thousand dollars in that case. He gave me a list of things to do for $1200 unrelated to the incident (break pads etc). I declined and got the oil changed.
He asked me to bring the car back in after 500 miles to check if the oil stays. There has been no leak. Now I have driven 150 miles and the maintenance required sign comes up. I have three questions:
(1) Can this maintenance required sign be related to the incident or related to the regular oil change schedule
(2) Could I have damaged my engine? If so, how to find out
(3) Why could the engine oil run out before the next scheduled maintenance?
Is it possible the technician might have not filled it up? (yesterday I checked the oil level (after 150 miles) and the level is well above the max needed).
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When I fuel up I hear a loud thump in the back of my vehicle, I then hear the gas pump nozzle click off after about another half gallon is pumped in. Without understanding the design of a tank or the gauge float etc. I am guessing that something is getting stuck and releasing under pressure once the tank fills up. Of course this has me more than somewhat concerned from a safety perspective. Note that this vehicle was brought in under warranty for the fuel sensor issue and the part was replaced, would this be related to that? Will the repair still be cover as a part of that work even though my vehicle is now out of warranty?
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2007 Camry LE 4cyl 125XXX miles ... The car sounds horrible at idle, but its not rough/shaky, just loud with a constant "thump, thump, thump" sound. It also whines with RPM increases, not just acceleration, but also while in park or neutral. Took it to Auto Zone and it tested with a bad voltage regulator in the alternator. In the process of calling around to different shops, they all seem puzzled that the alternator is bad, even though I replaced the battery 10 days ago and the battery light still flashes off/on while driving. So, before I go sinking a few hundred bucks into a new alternator, should I be looking at something else?
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For last couple of days the car is making a Thump sound when the engine turns over. then it gone- single thump sound....It only happens in the morning if the car is sitting in the garage overnight. I do not hear it if i park the car at work after 8 hours does not make the same sound.
I also feel it takes a bit tad longer to start the car(again only in the morning)- i thought it was the battery but the battery has been replaced 2 years ago.
i will try to record the sound tomorrow and post it. the car is fine once started no funny sounds or anything. Its a 2011 with 71k miles on it.
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I've not long had my 2007 SF but I noticed that the tailgate area is not as quiet as it should be. There is a definite thump over typical poorly repaired roads in the UK, but there is also a rattle. I thought one culprit might have been the spare wheel since there is a spring which allows some movement. My main focus is the tailgate I was wondering if anything can be adjusted to keep it still.
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I just picked up a used 2009 LS 460 AWD last week with 45K miles. I have put about 1000 miles on it so far myself.
When I hit any small depression in the road at 10-45 mph I hear a thump in the rear. The bigger the depression and the more weight in the backseat, the louder the thump noise and even an occasional bottoming out feeling occurs. It hasn't happened at highway speeds so far.
The bottoming out feel occurs only with a medium to large depression. I am not talking about a pot hole, just pavement depressions where two sections are not of equal height or you are transitioning from a primary road to a side street and the is a depression to allow for water run off, etc.
If I have someone sitting in the passenger seat and the backseat and accelerate quickly from a dead stop, I get a similar rear thump and even a bottoming out feel. This occasionally occurs even without a without a depression in the road. With no one in the back seat it does not do it unless there is a big depression in the road.
Finally, when cornering on a 270 degree off ramp at 40 to 50 MPH the rear end will start to hop and bounce. If I slow down to 15-20 mph it goes away. Still, it is irritating and embarrassing. I have tried all comfort settings and get the same results.
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2008 ES 350 sway bar replace, confirmed diagnose of metal thump, like dead blow metal to metal, mostly bumps, rough roads. etc, it wasnt' a vibration, but finally moved the sway bar link up and down on jack stands and could see and hear the top joint of the sway bar link moving.
It wasnt a bad job, but if your in the Rust Belt, the nuts aren't happy coming off, and I highly recommend a air saw to ease the pain. If you dont have a saw, and your in the Rust Belt make sure you clean the heck outta the rust in the threads, cause it just jams the works as your easing the nut off the stud.
Need 17mm wrench (i used box end rachet) and 6mm allen , its got that stupid set up off the allen slot in the end of the stud to steady that, and they you gotta work the bolt off at the same time, not a one hand operation.
Start by spraying the snot outta the 17mm nut and stud with Blaster, Hold onto the allen key wrench and I whacked the rachet with a dead blow hammer and was able to get it to bust loose, now you just have to ease the nut off with whatever it'll give you. After I got some room for the air saw blade, I just whacked it with the saw.
Careful if you just start with a cut off operation into the rubber boot of the stud, there is a shoulder that wont allow it to just pull thru, you have to cut the stud on the nut side of the sway bar in order for it to pull thru.
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I was driving the other day and heard the light thump thump sound behind me. I wasn't sure but its the same as when the door locks are toggled. So I guess the system was locking or trying to lock them. I noticed my passenger door was showing unlocked (Red showing). I manually toggled it but the e-lock over rode opening immediately as I was driving. It just wiggled.
I tested parked at home and the passenger door lock does work. Locks and unlocks with the FOB. The manual passenger lever which should move in/out appears to be disconnected. It moves slightly each time but stays showing Red.
Now to pull the panel off but it s a long hot weekend here. Shops a closed and I expect something is broken. Maybe a plastic tab holding the arm. I'll look into it tomorrow in more depth. This doesn't account for the original sound but it stopped for now.
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I first noticed this recently as my wife was pulling out of the driveway into the street... The car wasn't cold, as it had been running for a bit over 5 minutes, warming up. My driveway slopes a bit towards the street and also has a dip/hump at the end of it. As she pulled out in R from P, I heard a thump. I also hear a noise which sounds like the brakes engaging. So in order, brakes engaging, shift from P to R, the thump then as it backs up and turns into the street, there's a slight, faint grind noise.
As the car stops to go from R to D, it thumps again. But as it goes into drive and pulls away..smooth as butter and quiet. I've heard and read that it's possible motor mounts. I'm wondering if the light grinding is the actuator...or perhaps dried out bushings in the control arms... Also read the possibility of the trans going bad, which I highly doubt, but who knows. My plan is to call Lexus in the morning and see if I can be squeezed in.
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