So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
View 11 RepliesI got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
I have a 2000 Ford Excursion with multiple transmission symptoms, so here goes.
The problem doesn't occur until after the vehicle has been driven approximately 100 miles as far as I can tell. At that point, I'll start to notice smoke coming from underneath the vehicle caused by the transmission leaking fluid onto the exhaust from the front of the transmission. At lower speeds, and while idling, the transmission will shake and shudder. It's not noisy or that extreme, but definitely noticeable.
I've also noticed on occasion there is a loss of power at higher speeds when the vehicle is in 4th or 5th gear. This mostly happens when trying to accelerate to pass on the highway. The transmission sounds like it downshifts, but the hard I push the gas pedal, the less power I have. If I push down far enough, the RPM's begin to drop. I've noticed that after I let the vehicle sit turned off for a couple of hours, it begins to work properly again, but it only lasts until the transmission is hot again.
My 2000 v10 w/194K has developed an intermittent shake when braking. Severity from mild to severe. Had the problem earlier, suspected the rotors - replaced front rotors and pads with EB slotted rotors and Yellow Stuff pads. It was fine for a couple of months, now its back. Replaced the slide pins last night (they were in good shape, replaced anyway). Where to look next?
View 14 RepliesMy 2002 Ex 4x4 developed a shudder during breaking. Today while trying to jack it up and put on jack stands. My 2 3/4 ton jack was too weak/short to lift it up to put on stands. I am using 6 ton stands just to lift the front.
So have to get new jack. Keep in mind I don't have a ton of cash for new jack. What size are you all using to get your ex up on stands?
When I bought my X, the front end would periodically shake and pull to the right.
I recently redid the front brakes on my X. Replaced everything except the rotors; they looked okay. That fixed it pulling to the right and fixed the shaking somewhat, but it still shakes when I apply the brakes.
I don't feel it through the pedals. It's all up front, too. You can see the steering wheel shaking really bad.
What I'm thinking is maybe it's my tie rod ends? I think my front brakes were locking up and causing the shake to happen all the time. I think when I fixed that, it made it to where the shake only happens under braking. This makes me think it's the tie rod ends, or something else loose up there. I recently replaced the ball joints, too.
Or could it be the rear rotors? I just want to make sure I'm close before I start throwing parts at it!
So Ive got slotted rotors with Hawk pads up front. I put them on a while back, pads are probably getting to the end of their life. Rear brakes and rotors were done by the dealer recently. X code springs up front, stock springs with RAS in the rear.
Under quick, semi-hard braking I get some heavy shudder, not sure if its from the from or the rear. I had been thinking it was probably the brakes themselves, and planned on addressing the fronts soon. But then I read something around here about axle wrap under braking, and am now wondering if that's the cause. I am pretty sure that big rubber cone on my rear springs is gone, and I read that that is what prevents axle wrap.
In my case, from a stop, when I accelerate only in a turn left or right I get a shudder and shake from my rear end and it seems to be worse when the truck or air temp is colder.
well I went with the most basic thing first, popped the diff cover off, drained all the fluid, wiped out as much as I could get out of the collection area in the bottom. put a new gasket on and a little rtv, replaced cover. pulled the plug and cleaned off the shavings from the magnet and put new oil in it (I used Valvoline 75-90 with the friction modifier already in it, said limited slip right on the bottle)
test drove it around the block about a hundred times making left and right turns and the shudder and shake seemed to constantly decrease until it was perfectly smooth and noiseless!!! so that seemed to be an easy fix however I will report back to see what happens when I take it out cold in the morning.
So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 RepliesMy trucks been doing something weird. When accelerating around 45-55 mph, a couple seconds after it shifts to 3rd, it does a weird type off shake/shudder. Feels like I hit a small bump in the road. Also when coming out of a cruise to accelerate, it will Make a very violent clunk and then speed up. I'm thinking it's a problem with my torque converter but my mechanic says transmission and my buddy says rear end lol. I dropped the pan and there was some shavings but nothing huge and it was the first time it was ever dropped. After 90k miles.
View 14 RepliesI have a early 99 7.3l that seem to cut out and shudder while accelerating at low rpm's below 2000 once I am above 2000 rpm it seems to go away similar to a dirty carburetor thinking injector problem...
View 2 RepliesI've got a 12 FX4 SC 6.5' w/Ecoboost. After 1K miles I began to develop a shudder/shake in the tranny-driveshaft passing through 1500 rpm. 4 dealers, 6 overnights and 2 escalations, I finally am told there is a design problem in the pre Jan 12 trucks. Fixed with frame mod to manufacturing process after Jan, but no solution for current owners with the problem. I replaced my 07 FX4 SC with this truck and loved it for the first 1K miles. Now I hate driving it, especially in traffic (lots of cycles through 1500 rpm).
View 5 RepliesEvery once in a while, while idling at a light/stop-sign/etc, I get a shudder in the engine... usually all is smooth as silk, and then its like some fat kid just jumped inside the engine compartment (I'm exaggerating) ok, a very small fat kid its like weight shifted somewhere and you feel the ripple from it.
I did find this old thread [URL] .... but doesn't look like much came of it. I don't really suspect its a big problem, but definitely nothing I've experienced since 4-5 VWs ago, when I had a throttle that would race up (but the engine revs don't seem to be changing during this).
Car is in the shop for 10k today anyway, so I figured I'd have them take a quick check. (gotta see if they can do anything for the lackluster AC too).
I have a 2005 Subaru Outback, 3.0 H6, LL Bean, 5 speed auto. 150,000 miles. No engine codes.
I bought it took two years privately. I didn't notice during the test drive, but it has a shake/shudder at 18-20mph and at 55-60mph. Only at those speeds and only during acceleration. During light acceleration it isn't noticeable, but hard acceleration particularly on a hill at 55-60 the car can shake quite violently. Probably 50% of the time the 18-20mph shudder doesn't occur. It feels like the whole of the front of the car is shaking from side to side.
It doesn't matter what gear it's in - auto/auto sport/manual 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, or 5th. So it's not engine rpm related. I've had the transmission fluid flushed. I've had two sets of tires. I've had the prop shaft replaced. It still does it, and it hasn't got better or worse. It happens both during straight line and turns.
The engine runs smooth and the gear shifts are crisp and smooth. Our local dealer doesn't know what it is (they suggested prop shaft) and our highly recommended local transmission shop doesn't know what it is. All CV joints have been checked.
I think the big clue here is that it is very vehicle speed dependent; 18-20 and 55-60mph.Could it be something to do with the transfer clutches? Does this transmission have an electronic control computer that needs an update? (This is a first year model). Is there vehicle speed sensor used by the transmission that could be bad but that wouldn't trigger an engine code? Unfortunately I can't disable the rear wheel drive like on the 4 speed transmissions, there is no fuse to do that.
About 6 months ago I bought a '08 GS 350 CPO. Love the car but after a month or two of ownership, on light acceleration 3rd and 4th gears will shudder. The whole car will buck and shake, but if I give it more gas it will smooth out. Doesn't seem to be the engine, I suspect more the transmission. Of course I took it in and they "could not reproduce the problem"... Is this just a normal characteristic of the car?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2012 Camry SE and my front passenger seat seems to shake/shudder alot. It constantly shudders and makes so much noise when no one is sitting in it, that it's driving me crazy! I can't tolerate the noise of it. If I go over a bump it shudders, if i'm driving on a rough highway, it shudders and shakes so badly that I have to put my hand on it to make it stop. It makes squeaky noises as well. It doesn't happen when driving on smooth surface.
Secondly, the center dash is very squeaky, and made out of hard plastic. I feel there is no insulation behind, and thus it squeaks whenever I go over a bump. What steps did you take to resolve it?
I have a 199 Ford Expedition that started shuddering several months ago. The shudder was the most pronounced when braking, but was also pretty bad when accelerating and letting off the accelerator.I took it to a Nationally recognized service center. They charged me over $1,200 to replace everything associated with my brakes, but the shudder, (although no longer so pronounced when braking), was still there.Their best guess was the “U” joints, but since they had just a little play in them, they weren't sure that that would cause so much shudder.I took it to a Ford dealer. They had it for 3 days, and charged me $366 for a diagnosis that I had 3 different brand name tires, and the All Wheel Drive was having difficulty keeping the wheels in sync.The problem seems to be most pronounced when letting up on the accelerator Also pronounced when accelerating, not as much so as when letting off the accelerator, but when cruising steadily with my foot on the accelerator, it nearly goes away.
View 2 RepliesThe truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
My gf's best friend has a 2007 Camry 2.4L sedan. Automatic trans if it matters. Has a really bad shake/thump when braking so I'm thinking it has warped rotors. She had brakes done by "some place" a year or so ago and I think they may have over tightened the lug nuts or something. She's also hard on brakes...and cars in general.
Ordered the Powerstop rotors and pads kit from RockAuto (non-performance setup, ceramic pads and regular rotors) and will be working on it soon.
Any link to the service manual or a place where I can get information on doing a brake job?
First issue I noticed was the brake pedal/steering vibrating - my assumption was "warped" rotors (I use warped in quotations so that this does not turn into a discussion on whether or not rotors can warp.) I checked the front and the rotors and pads seem fairly new, the back pads were pretty much gone so I replaced those. Reduced the problem somewhat. Yes I still need to do the rotors but would rear rotors that are warped cause that much shaking?
Next issue I had noticed was that for a while that the car would shake somewhat when accelerating usually going up hills or when the car is under strain. Then I noticed that when I had the car fully loaded with passengers it would shake fairly noticeably when accelerating every time.
I thought the problem may be worn plugs since it seemed to come from the engine, well after 2 days and many hours of work not the problem.
By the way I bought the car only a few months ago and have very few service records so not too sure what has or has not been done. The lady did keep up with the maintenance though.
So I bought my R with 9000 miles on it, and I noticed a little bit of shudder when braking. For some reason it is starting to get a little worse.....and I haven't been bagging on it. Really, warped rotors....at 9k.
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