So I bought my R with 9000 miles on it, and I noticed a little bit of shudder when braking. For some reason it is starting to get a little worse.....and I haven't been bagging on it. Really, warped rotors....at 9k.
View 24 RepliesPicked up my MK6 GTI DSG last Saturday. I have noticed a slight shudder when braking and coming to a gentle stop. At first I thought it may be the brakes bedding in so I kept it over the weekend. By today there's still no change. Is it normal for DSG transmission stop like this? Because I have never driven DSG transmission.
View 11 RepliesI got a phaeton v8, I feel a big shudder in the whole car while I have an amount of pressure on the brakes. for example: when approaching a red traffic light soft braking: no shudder, half braking: shudder and when hard braking the shudder is gone again. what could be the problem?
View 24 RepliesI replaced the pads and rotors on the front end of my 2002 maxima (it had a shudder when braking from speed). By mistake, I did loosen the spindle nut, but re-tightened it. Braking is smooth, but I am plagued by noise. Used CRC on the back of the pads, have pulled the tires/wheels 3-4 times looking for looseness, mistakes, etc…. This is a pretty simple job – right? Even had the front wheel off my other 2002 (yes – I have 2…love this year/model) and compared them.
Did I cause an issue with the loosening and re-tightening of the spindle? Is this just a spline? I have it “wrench” tight and it had not loosened up even with 500 miles driving. There is not any play in the wheels mounted to the axle… What do I need to look at next?
My 2002 Ex 4x4 developed a shudder during breaking. Today while trying to jack it up and put on jack stands. My 2 3/4 ton jack was too weak/short to lift it up to put on stands. I am using 6 ton stands just to lift the front.
So have to get new jack. Keep in mind I don't have a ton of cash for new jack. What size are you all using to get your ex up on stands?
2010 Camry LE 4 Cylinder (~76,000 miles)
I purchased new tires for my Camry at a mileage of about 70,000 (~11/2015). I do mostly city driving. A few months ago I sometimes started noticing a steering column shudder upon braking when traveling at higher speeds (~50+ mph). I read on the web that this type of shudder is typically caused by warped rotors.
I was considering getting a front brake job (new rotors + pads), but decided to get a tire balance/rotation. It was reported that the right front tire was out of balance and that now all four tires are in balance. After the Balance/Rotation, the problem was still there but not as bad (Shudder reduced by at least 50% over what was experienced before the balance/rotation).
I went to a brake shop and discussed the problem and they said that they suspect that there may still be a problem with proper tire balancing. They recommended a second opinion on whether or not the tires were properly balanced. They did not explain 'second opinion' so I went to where the tires were balanced two weeks earlier (Discount Tire) and they did a free balance check and reported that all four tires are still balanced.
Basically, I have no detectable shudder at less than ~50 mph. All rotors and pads are the original ones that came with the car when it was new.
So I just bought a 2004 Ex 4x4 4wd with only 50k from a dealer. While test driving the truck would shake/shudder when braking at 50-70 getting worse if you were going faster, as a condition of the sale they said they would look into it. They did and said it was the tires?? They balanced and rotated and did and alignment. Are they correct? the tires are BFG AT 33x12.5x16.5 on aftermarket rims.
View 11 RepliesI have an '09 Avalon with 34K miles. On braking we get a shudder. It's especially noticeable on gentle braking. I am pretty sure this is due to the brake rotors being warped or whatever the correct term is. Are these covered under warranty? I'm a skeptic and I feel sure the dealer will try and blame the tires but they are wearing evenly and are rotated every 5K. The ride is smooth when not braking so tire balance should not be an issue.
View 7 RepliesI just bought a 2007 Sonata V6 (GL or GLS). Before buying the car, the last owner had the rear brakes "serviced" because the mechanic said the brakes were "sticking" - charged the old owner $300 for it. When I am on the highway and I brake, the rear brakes shudder. Do you think the shudder is because the rear brakes are still sticking, or because it needs new rotors?
View 5 RepliesI have a 199 Ford Expedition that started shuddering several months ago. The shudder was the most pronounced when braking, but was also pretty bad when accelerating and letting off the accelerator.I took it to a Nationally recognized service center. They charged me over $1,200 to replace everything associated with my brakes, but the shudder, (although no longer so pronounced when braking), was still there.Their best guess was the “U” joints, but since they had just a little play in them, they weren't sure that that would cause so much shudder.I took it to a Ford dealer. They had it for 3 days, and charged me $366 for a diagnosis that I had 3 different brand name tires, and the All Wheel Drive was having difficulty keeping the wheels in sync.The problem seems to be most pronounced when letting up on the accelerator Also pronounced when accelerating, not as much so as when letting off the accelerator, but when cruising steadily with my foot on the accelerator, it nearly goes away.
View 2 RepliesI got a 2006 Solara SLE. while braking from highway speeds, the steering wheel shakes VIOLENTLY. city driving its not noticable. cruising the car is silky smooth. The one front caliper was sticking and i replaced pads, pins, rotor. Still shakes. i tried swapping pins as one pin has a sleeve at the tip and i didnt remember which one went where. i did notice the pin with no sleeve fits loosely. the rotor is AZ Duralast brand. the car has 200k trouble free with no suspension work ever done.
I am lost what to do and need to make a long trip coming up. I was going to try in order- replace other rotor, spin the one rotor and replace guide pin with a sleeved one, then do lateral run out test/lathe, alignment, then if that dosnt work a stick of dynamite. Iheard a bad tie rod or ball joint can cause this, i find it unlikely as it would probably shake all the time. Other small issue is a loud thunk in the rear when it hits bumps. Rear swaybar mounts?
So Ive got slotted rotors with Hawk pads up front. I put them on a while back, pads are probably getting to the end of their life. Rear brakes and rotors were done by the dealer recently. X code springs up front, stock springs with RAS in the rear.
Under quick, semi-hard braking I get some heavy shudder, not sure if its from the from or the rear. I had been thinking it was probably the brakes themselves, and planned on addressing the fronts soon. But then I read something around here about axle wrap under braking, and am now wondering if that's the cause. I am pretty sure that big rubber cone on my rear springs is gone, and I read that that is what prevents axle wrap.
The truck is a new to me 99 f250 7.3. The problem occurred before doing the brakes, and after. The front brakes had new pads and calipers(rotors appeared to be in good condition) while the rears got New rotors, calipers, pads. The persisting problem is a really bad brake shudder that seems to be getting worse. It only occurs below about 5-10mph when braking. on this trip back to school there is a hill with a stop sign at the bottom where i should have rolled forward when i let my foot off the brake. This didn't happen.
It almost seemed as if the tires(meaty 35in dick cepek crushers) where rubbing and catching on something. but we checked and it didn't seems as if they were, though they do come somewhat close to the bumper. Im not even sure if its brakes or what it is, a friend of mine said possibly the hubs, but what can i do to pinpoint it? I wanna try loading down the front with something to simulate the drop when braking and see if the tires do indeed hit as when going to a rolling stop with only a little braking it doesn't do it. Any other things to check?
So my 07 with 125k miles has had new rotors for about 50k miles or so, but for a while now when the brakes get hot it gets a violent shudder on braking at highway speeds....the odd part to me is nothing at lower speeds, and not always at higher speeds....do I just have warped rotors again? The rest of the front end I good and tight....
View 9 Replies2008 F250 Crew Cab 5.4, 79K miles, had new brake pads installed at 40K miles. Recently, I noticed front end shudder and some pedal pulsation while braking. It started kind of sudden. My first thought was a warped rotor.
When I took things apart, I found passenger side front rotor was cracked and the caliper pistons were rusted and falling apart, the old pads were only worn about half way. My thoughts on a bad rotor were confirmed, and then some.
I replaced the broken caliper, both front rotors, installed new pads on all four wheels, and bled the brakes. To my surprise, the brake shuddering did not go away. I'm stumped.
Ok I have this problem now on my R .... the dealership replaced the whole clutch kit under warranty and I picked up
the car on monday morning at first everything felt ok until I had to reverse I felt a slight shudder but didn't think
much of it as the clutch only then did about 10km's ... The clutch is fine in all the other gears no shudder no slipping nothing it's only when you reverse that you can feel it. What this could be ?
I just picked up my new GTI and drove it 300 miles home. I did notice one potential issue that will need service attention. There is a mild but very noticeable shudder when slowing to a stop (gently slowing to less than 5mph). It is also mildly noticeable when taking off slowly but much less so.
The best description I can come up with is : Shudder that occurs when you slow to a near stop in a manual transmission car without pressing in the clutch? That little shudder that reminds you to put the clutch in before you stall. That is what this feels like. It doesn't shake the whole car but it is very noticeable.
Shortly after 40K service at the dealership, where DSG oil and Haldex oil were changed. My wife who is currently daily driving my R32, and was on a road trip at the time, feels something like she a shudder in the drivetrain and car stalled. She pulled over and restarted car only to hear the metallic grinding noise while trying to move fwd.
Car towed to different out of town VW dealer, who says the "Front Haldex/Transfer case" failed internally, replacing under extended warranty with sealed unit shipping from Germany.
Story smells to me, and I wouldn't be surprised if local dealership drained the oil out of something and did not refill, as this seems like a very rare failure.
When I am stopped and remove my foot from the brake, the car shudders as it moves forward. This happens when I do not give it any throttle. The idle forward is jerky...like it pulses. It feels like when you let the clutch out too slow on a manual trans. The DSG in all it's techno-glory should be able to release it's clutch(s) smoothly one would think? It happens when I am waiting in line at a stop sign or in traffic...anytime I need to idle forward slowly. I've been driving it for less than a week...it has 320 miles and I'm keeping it under the limits for break-in (BORING). Anyway, the thought of taking it for service at this point is depressing..
View 15 RepliesWell for a couple of months now I've had a really erratic shudder that occurred at different speeds and at different RPMs... I checked motor mounts, wheel balance, CV Joints, flywheel, etc. and when I took it to my mechanic, he discovered a sliced exhaust hanger in the middle of the exhaust system and nothing else.
Well after replacing this rubber hanger this vibration miraculously stopped occurring. I realized now that the movement of the exhaust which was created over certain roads with undulation caused it to flex harmonically and interrupt the workings of my Koni FSDs.
I really began to think the struts were the culprit but in the end realized the frequency from the loose exhaust was too much for the Frequency Sensing Dampers to counteract as the movements and inertia were opposite the motion of the car itself. She's now smooth as silk at highway speeds once again and only a slight vibration from the race strut bushings which were recently upgraded from stock can be felt through the steering wheel.
With my car sitting, out of gear or clutch in, I rev the engine to say 4 thou. As the engine decelerates I get a perceptible vibration or shudder. It feels like an out of balance. In gear, accelerating, no problem. In gear, decelerating, no problem. And it doesn't happen all the time. It does, or doesn't do it hot or cold.
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