I have a 2007 Toyota Camry SE V6 with 201,000 miles on it. My problem is that when the vehicle is idling it is smooth as can be, but when I begin to accelerate or even floor the gas pedal, the car begins to violent shake and feels like it is about to fall apart. I just had new front and rear brake pads and rotors put on yesterday. The tires have about 6,000 miles on them and does not need to be aligned.
View 4 Replies2007 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, automatic transmission, 147k miles. Was driving ab 60mph and slowing down as I approached a red light. Light turned green but car suddenly would not accelerate above about 20mph or 2000 rpm - ran fine as long as I stayed under 20, but when I tried to accelerate beyond that it started lurching like crazy and wouldn't accelerate. Pulled into a gas station and let it idle for a few mins while I checked the transmission fluid (has had a slow leak but I have been staying pretty on top of the fluid levels). Color and smell of the fluid was fine, but level was just a little low so I added some more fluid and let it cycle thru for a few minutes. Managed to get it home by staying under 20mph. Turned it off and basically ignored it for about 10 days due to being swamped at work. Went to start it up last night and the engine cranks but won't turn over and start. Lights, etc. all work. What gives? Praying this is not a transmission issue.
View 8 RepliesMitsubishi Lancer, 2003, 140k miles, auto transmission. About a week ago, I noticed a new noise coming from the engine compartment. It's not very loud, only a little louder than regular road/engine noise. It starts up a second or two after I begin to accelerate, and it winds down a second or two behind the rate at which I slow to a stop. It is constant when I am traveling at speed. The sound is something between a whirring and a growling noise, almost exactly the sound you hear when knobby bicycle tires roll quickly over smooth pavement.
The transmission fluid was about a quart low, and that got filled up, but the noise hasn't changed or stopped since then. I haven't had any problems with shifting out of/into gear. The car does occasionally "slip" out of gear in that when I am traveling slowly (stuck in traffic, usually) and going back and forth between light acceleration, coasting, and braking, once in a while I'll press the gas and the engine will just rev, but it won't engage. If I just let off the pedal, it will "reset" and then it moves just fine. It's done that ever since I bought the car in 2009, and it doesn't do it all that often, and only at those low traffic jam type speeds. So, I don't know if it's related to the noise, which is what I'm more concerned about.
As I begin to accelerate a humming sound from the front of the car begins. The noise becomes more pronounced the faster I go. No additional noise is made when I brake or turn, nor does it appear to be any noise when I went in reverse. I made a 180 mile trip on Sunday with no problems, although I did travel at closer to 55mph than 65. The car has 170,000 miles on it and has had most of its scheduled maintenance performed.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Toyota Camry with 45,000 miles, and my Camry engine is starting to shake when I put it in drive. My "Check Engine" light starts to flash. I haven't had any other problems, so I was surprised when this started to happen.
View 4 RepliesOur 1995 Toyota Camry shakes and makes a loud rattling noise while driving, but not every time I drive the car. The rear seat of the vehicle, especially feels the shake. The rear tires have been replaced and aligned, but still the shake/noise persists. Our mechanic has not been able to recreate the noise. It has occurred in the winter and summer with or without the heater and/or air conditioning on or off. Sometimes the shaking is so severe, I am afraid of what will happen, but I will stop at the next light, sit for a minute or two, and when the light turns green, the car goes, no shaking involved - everything is fine. I typically drive in town so speed is only 45 mph or less. The car has only 137,000 miles, and is well-maintained.
View 2 RepliesMy gf's best friend has a 2007 Camry 2.4L sedan. Automatic trans if it matters. Has a really bad shake/thump when braking so I'm thinking it has warped rotors. She had brakes done by "some place" a year or so ago and I think they may have over tightened the lug nuts or something. She's also hard on brakes...and cars in general.
Ordered the Powerstop rotors and pads kit from RockAuto (non-performance setup, ceramic pads and regular rotors) and will be working on it soon.
Any link to the service manual or a place where I can get information on doing a brake job?
For the past few months when the vehicle is cold (by "cold" I dont mean physically cold, just mean it has been sitting all night in my driveway and it's still 90+ degrees outside) and I start driving, I seem to have this shimmy or shake in the tires/steering/steering wheel. Once my car seems to "warm up" (driving a mile or two) it goes away and my car is extremely smooth.
Could it be tires (I've tried rotating)? Suspension? Wheel bearings? I'm lost for even imagining what it could be. I don't believe it is engine/trans related, as it idles/revs just fine and shift perfectly...
I have toyota camry 2009. I have almost no issues besides when I'm trying accelerate to getting on highway and tap on acceleration pedal sometimes it takes up to 5 sec to start accelerate:as soon your tap on pedal , it kind of thinking for 2-3 sec then goes to lower gear and only then start accelerate. Is it normal behavior for the toyota's car? I heard toyota's not really maneuverable cars or it just mine like this? I'm worry in traffic even overtake cars in traffic,otherwise can be accident.
View 6 RepliesOnce day my car began idling poorly and would not accelerate beyond 3000 rpm. The check engine light began blinking and I stopped driving it.
My check engine light remained on and the obd read Cylinder 2 misfire (p0302) and random cylinder misfire (p0300). I tested the ignition coils and found that the cylinder 2 ignition coil was dead so I replaced it. The codes no longer showed but the car still would not accelerate and was firing irregularly. I checked for vacuum leaks but found all hoses connected and whole.
I tried removing pcv hose and blocked the valve with my thumb and the car instantly corrected the rough idle. I then went around the block and the car drove and fired properly. I'm unsure if I am losing vacuum pressure in the intake manifold or if the issue is elsewhere?
In my 4 runner when I slowly accelerate between 30 and 40 mph just as I can hear the car about to shift gear the car begins to shake when I than accelerate the shaking stops. Brought it to a shop and they changed a spark plug and coil they say was mis firing, but I pick the car up and the problem is still there. Their diagnostic shows no problems, yet the shaking is still there when slowly accelerating between 30-40, no check engine light has ever come on. While it shakes if I shift the car from D to 4 the shaking stops, and if I speed hard through 30- 40 it doesn't shake, just when I slowly accelerate.
View 5 RepliesI get a whooshing noise coming from under the dashboard on the drivers side of the car every time I accelerate from a standstill. It sound like water flushing down a pipe. All the fluids are ok & I have zero leaks. Before I take the car to a repair shop & get a bad deal. The car has 58,000 miles on it.
View 15 RepliesI have a 1988 Toyota Camry. I was driving to work this morning, the car was driving fine. After about 10 mile or so, I stopped at a red light, when the light changed the car wouldn't accelerate it seemed to have a really bad hesitation. If i let off the gas it would idle fine, none of the warning lights are on. However, when I give it more gas the car doesn't have any power at all. It has plenty of gas in it and the exhaust has no signs of any oil or water in it. I was thinking it may be a bad fuel filter or a tank of bad gas.
View 6 RepliesI drive a 2001 Toyota Camry LE, 2.2 4 cylinder. It has about 206k miles on it… About 2 months ago I started to feel slight hesitation when I was driving…. It was so slight I wasn’t sure if it was happening or not. Recently the hesitation has become much worse… typically it will hesitate and jerk when I try to accelerate from slow speeds… this primarily happens when the car is cold. It will also jerk and hesitate when I am cruising at a fixed speed. If I step on the gas, the jerking stops.
Here are known issues and recent work I have had done… in November I replaced my complete exhaust system myself, including the downstream oxygen sensor. The cat is now bad and it will rattle. I had a mechanic replace my water pump, timing belt and all pulleys and tensioners associated with it about 2 weeks ago. The hesitation predated this problem.
About 5 years ago I replaced my own plugs and wires… when I did this; I noticed oil on one plug. This was for the cylinder closest to the driver’s side. I never noticed any issues with the performance of my car related to the oil, and I do not burn through much… perhaps a quart every 2 months. About a week ago I replaced my plugs and noticed the oil again. I do not know if this relates to my hesitation problem or not. I also filled my tank and used a container of injector cleaner, thinking perhaps a clogged injector was causing the problem.
The problem still exists.
Now I am thinking it might be one of two problems… either a defective ignition coil or a bad throttle position sensor. Yesterday I borrowed a code reader… it told me I had “long fuel trim in bank 1”.
I have a 07' V6 SE and have a nasty wheel hop. Went to the track and ran 15.0@95mph all night because I can't accelerate faster without the nasty wheel hop (temp was 90 with lot of humidity). I would like to go to the track again, but before start making some mods (intake & complete exhaust) I want to get rid of the excessive wheel hop.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2009 toyota camry le 4 cyl with 170000 miles. I had my rear main seal replaced because there was an oil leak. Now after I got it back from the shop, there is a oil leak near the front motor mount and my engine had gotten louder when i accelerate. also it smells like paint or something inside my car. what did the shop do?
View 3 RepliesI was installing a new engine mount the one on the tranny and one of my jack stands failed on me, luckily I wasn't under the car. I always put a tire under the car just in case and it worked for me, but now whenever I accelerate I have a humming/whining noise. Can this be the transmission? This is on the 07 Camry 4 Cylinder.
View 14 RepliesIn my case, from a stop, when I accelerate only in a turn left or right I get a shudder and shake from my rear end and it seems to be worse when the truck or air temp is colder.
well I went with the most basic thing first, popped the diff cover off, drained all the fluid, wiped out as much as I could get out of the collection area in the bottom. put a new gasket on and a little rtv, replaced cover. pulled the plug and cleaned off the shavings from the magnet and put new oil in it (I used Valvoline 75-90 with the friction modifier already in it, said limited slip right on the bottle)
test drove it around the block about a hundred times making left and right turns and the shudder and shake seemed to constantly decrease until it was perfectly smooth and noiseless!!! so that seemed to be an easy fix however I will report back to see what happens when I take it out cold in the morning.
I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
I have a 2007 Toyota camry and my stereo will not go to Aux. Before going to pay a ridiculous amount I want to try to work it out myself. So far the forums I've read have been because of bad ipod cable or cables not plugged in all the way. I've checked to see if the back is plugged in to the stereo and it is, tried new cables with ipod. I know its not the cable im using and ipod because I tried it on my brothers car and it works fine. something on my stereo.
View 1 RepliesHas a 2007 Toyota camry and the only window that will go up and down is the drivers side window.
View 6 Replies