Camry :: 2007 Toyota Won't Go To Aux
May 19, 2013
I have a 2007 Toyota camry and my stereo will not go to Aux. Before going to pay a ridiculous amount I want to try to work it out myself. So far the forums I've read have been because of bad ipod cable or cables not plugged in all the way. I've checked to see if the back is plugged in to the stereo and it is, tried new cables with ipod. I know its not the cable im using and ipod because I tried it on my brothers car and it works fine. something on my stereo.
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Has a 2007 Toyota camry and the only window that will go up and down is the drivers side window.
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I have 2007 Camry V6 XLE. Over the past year we have had at least 5 incidents of the car not going into gear when first started. This includes reverse when leaving garage and drive when out in parkig areas. Toyota claims they have no records of any other claims for this issue. It even happened at the Toyota lot when we were waiting for service to be done during oil change. All fluid levels have been checked and they were good. They suggested we leave car with them so they could try to get it to do this. This has all happened over the last year. We have about 47K miles on vehicle and purchased new.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry SE V6 with 201,000 miles on it. My problem is that when the vehicle is idling it is smooth as can be, but when I begin to accelerate or even floor the gas pedal, the car begins to violent shake and feels like it is about to fall apart. I just had new front and rear brake pads and rotors put on yesterday. The tires have about 6,000 miles on them and does not need to be aligned.
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I drive a 2007 Toyota Camry, and I am attempting to install a remote car starter. I was told that I would need to get a valet key made in order to do this and I would also lose that valet key. Is this true? Why do I need a valet key made and why will I lose that key? Can the remote starter not be installed without using a key?
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In my 2007 toyota camry, 4 cyl, W/ 120K miles, I have loud tapping noise while the A/C is on. Noise is only heard when the car is idling or when coming to a stop light. No noise when A/C is off.
Its sounds like the tapping noise is coming from top end of the engine. Engine shakes also while noise is present.
To me it sounds like piston slap which I am going to try to isolate it by running high octan gas. Personally I don't think its piston slap.
Maintenance stuff done: ireduim spark plugs, air/ cabin filter, drive belt, water pump @ 60K, oil change every 5K.
Problem 2: Also is there any fix for Radio AUX noise in speakers beside Toyota TSB on it. Getting electrical noise in the speakers through cellphone when its charging through car power outlet.
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How to replace the glove box lock in a 2007 Toyota Camry. I'm referring to part # 7 or 8 in the diagram below.
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I own a 2007 Toyota Camry XLE with about 95,000 miles and I was wondering if changing the transmission fluid is ever necessary. The maintenance guide, which shows required maintenance for every 5,000 miles through 120,000 miles, never mentions the need to change it (unless I'm doing towing, which I'm not). However, I found some articles on the web which suggest that it should be changed every 50,000 miles.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with 110,000 miles that is burning oil too fast. A farm mechanic told me I should put thicker oil in it- straight SAE 30. It is a 4 cyl, 2.4 L Automatic. I had a oil and filter change less than 2 months ago, have driven maybe 2,000 miles. The oil is below the first dot. The manufacturer says to put 5W 20 oil in. I live in central North Carolina, so below freezing temperatures aren’t an issue. Last oil and filter change, they checked for leaks and they said it was clean underneath with none. Also, is it possible the car is burning the oil fast because I live in a warmer climate and I’m using the thinner oil? Is it ok to put the thicker straight SAE 30 oil in it? If yes, can I add it to what’s already there (5w 20)?
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I have a 2007 Camry LE and the locks on the passenger doors and back doors stopped responding to the remote key UNLOCK OR the driver side UNLOCK button. I have to manually unlock the three doors. However, the key LOCK and driver side LOCK button works fine. The issue is only with the unlock. I had the same problem couple of years back and it became alright on its own. Now am having the problem again. The strange thing is that, sometimes it all works fine and sometimes I have the issue. Whenever I click on the Unlock button once, the driver side door unlocks. When I click it again, i hear the sound in all the doors and also the indicator light flashes / I hear the beep sound. But the passenger door and back door doesn't unlock.
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2007 Toyota Camry, 4 cyl, automatic transmission, 147k miles. Was driving ab 60mph and slowing down as I approached a red light. Light turned green but car suddenly would not accelerate above about 20mph or 2000 rpm - ran fine as long as I stayed under 20, but when I tried to accelerate beyond that it started lurching like crazy and wouldn't accelerate. Pulled into a gas station and let it idle for a few mins while I checked the transmission fluid (has had a slow leak but I have been staying pretty on top of the fluid levels). Color and smell of the fluid was fine, but level was just a little low so I added some more fluid and let it cycle thru for a few minutes. Managed to get it home by staying under 20mph. Turned it off and basically ignored it for about 10 days due to being swamped at work. Went to start it up last night and the engine cranks but won't turn over and start. Lights, etc. all work. What gives? Praying this is not a transmission issue.
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I bought a used 2007 Toyota Camry LE a couple of years ago and every time I turn on the AC it smells like cigarettes. The interior of the car doesn't have an odor when the AC is off. Is there anything I can do to eliminate the smell?
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I drive a 2007 toyota camry. This winter the brake light has come on twice - each time after driving for at least 30 minutes on very slushy, cold conditions. The first time, the brakes were still working fine - I pulled into work, topped off the fluid and the light went off. Flash forward two months later. Same conditions, the light came on and as I was looking for parking, the brakes went out. Pedal was soft, emergency lights went on the car said to "CHECK VSC". I pulled into a parking lot and the brakes were once again working, but the lights were still on.
I had the car towed to a Firestone where they were unable to determine a problem. The next day, all the lights were out on the dash. I had the car towed to the Toyota dealership and not only can they not recreate the issue, but when they pull the numbers from the car, there is no indication that anything has ever been wrong with any system in the vehicle. They told me they've called Toyota Tech and there has never been a report of this issue. They want to release the car back to me, but I do not feel safe driving this car.
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Water is getting in the trunk of my 2007 Toyota Camry. I need to replace the seal or weather stripping around the trunk, because it's come unattached in some places. I did some looking, but I am not familiar with some of the brands and vendors I see. Most of it is generic.
Are there particular brands with which you have had good luck? I've never replaced this sort of thing before.
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The navigation screen on my recently went blank, while I was driving to my little brother's graduation. I can still see a faint outline of the screen, but other than that, it is hard to see. Have this problem with their navigation screen? I've tried look in the manual for a solution, but it doesn't have anything useful in it. I've googled for the solution as well, but most people said that if I were to bring it into the dealership, they would just replace my whole unit and that would cost $2000 or more, which is a no-go. I've tried to see if it was a fuse, but I got no idea what I'm looking at when I looked at the fuse box. I'm thinking it is maybe the backlight and that it maybe just died. By the way, the screen still works, I can still press on it and select my preset radio stations, but just can't see.
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My car used to vibrate at a speeds above 50mph and I took it to NTB for wheel balancing. They did the balancing and when I first drove, the steering wheel was wobbling very badly and the wheel is stiffer than previously, Also the car is drifting to the right which did not happen previously. They said they didn't do anything other than balancing and reducing the tire pressure. They also gave me a quote for 2300 $ for the services to be done (many services shown there were done a month back..!!!). Then I took it to another NTB for alignment and they did the alignment first time and problem not solved. I took it the second time, they said toe was little off and they fixed it.! The problem is still not fixed and then I took it the third time and this time I got the car the TPMS was on.!!!!
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We have a 2007 toyota camry 2.4l which had a engine problem so car needed a rebuilt engine. so we went to auto repair shop and they installed a rebuilt engine.But when we went to pickup the car the owner of the shop said our a/c is not working and he doesn't know why. he said its a/c compressor clutch is not working. the a/c was working fine before the engine installation. when I talk to other people (different mechanics) they all say that the repair shop who installed the engine caused the a/c problem. How can I prove that so I maybe can sue the guy in a small claims court? for a good gesture the owner of the shop offered us free labor on installation of a/c compressor but not on part which I can bring my own. I need detail argument. people say that in order to win in a small claims court we need many supporting explanation from experts. we just want the a/c to work again. car drives fine after new rebuilt engine.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid that is having a speedometer problem. The speedometer registers 3 MPH more than my actual speed regardless what speed I am traveling. For example, if I am going 25 MPH, my speedometer will read 28 MPH; if I am traveling at 60 MPH my speedometer will read 63 MPH. I took my car to the dealership and they replicated the issue, but said that it is operating within ?normal? range. They admitted that they do not know how to fix the problem. I did not need to worry for it is operating within normal range. I have never had this problem with any other car, including my previous Toyota Camry.
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I have 2007 Camry that makes a humming noise when A/C and audio are on at the same time. Pitch increases as I press on the gas pedal and decrease to a steady level as I depress on the gas pedal. What could be a cause of this phenomenon?
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I recently did an oil change on my wife's 4 cylinder 2007 Toyota Camry which has about 126.5k miles so i was suggested at Autozone to use synthetic 10w30 instead of the conventional 5w20 they put at the shop when my wife gets an oil change. So i did a oil flush and did the oil change with the new synthetic 10w30 and now the Camry feels really heavy and has difficulty accelerating at first. It also makes a really loud squealing noise (like when your breaks are bad) when it first accelerates. Should I go back to conventional 5w20 even tho it has so many miles? Is there anything else wrong that i should get checked?
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A 2007 Toyota Camry 2.4 was brought into the shop I work at smoking badly and running terrible. The car had been run hot because the radiator was busted and it blew the head gasket. So I pulled the head and sent if off to the machine shop to have it checked. They said it was badly warped across three cylinder and they resurfaced it.
Now I have everything re assembled, but it simply will not start. All the timing marks on the timing chain line up where they should be. All four coils are firing. Injectors wires pulse noid lights. A few times it has hit and sputtered like it was trying to start but never successfully does.
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