Toyota - Camry :: 2007 - Speedometer Registers 3 MPH More Than Actual Speed
Mar 22, 2011
I have a 2007 Toyota Camry Hybrid that is having a speedometer problem. The speedometer registers 3 MPH more than my actual speed regardless what speed I am traveling. For example, if I am going 25 MPH, my speedometer will read 28 MPH; if I am traveling at 60 MPH my speedometer will read 63 MPH. I took my car to the dealership and they replicated the issue, but said that it is operating within ?normal? range. They admitted that they do not know how to fix the problem. I did not need to worry for it is operating within normal range. I have never had this problem with any other car, including my previous Toyota Camry.
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I timed my Tiguan for ten miles with the cruise control at 60mph on the way home tonight. This is the first car I've had where the speedometer reads less than actual speed. Average speed was 62.36mph. It varied between 60 and 65 on a mile by mile basis, but I can't put my finger on what caused the variation. The speed limit is 65 on that stretch, and there are a couple hills, but I was lucky and avoided slowpokes that would have taken me out of cruise.
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Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
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I'm curious why the speedometer on the Santa fe goes to 140mph when the speed limiter will only let you go to 105mph. I have done ECU upgrades with Nissan's and ECU "reflashes" with Toyotas in the past. How to eliminate the 105 PMH speed limiter?
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry LE V6, It has 15 inch stock wheels on it
If I go to a larger wheel, is it possible to change the wheel speed so that the speedometer reads correct? If I have read correct, the stock offset is +45 and the lug pattern is 5x114.3 and a 6.5inch wheel?
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The MPG display on my new 2014 Camry XLE displays 1.5mpg higher than actual MPG. This is based on the first 9 tanks (Toyota Dealer reset the trip mileage during tire rotation). Mostly highway type of driving (backroads of the desert).
Note that the next three tanks-fulls the MPG display accuracy is better. Maybe the display is more accurate once the car get broken-in.
Data Follows:
Fill Up: Display MPG: Delta: Calculated MPG: Gallons: Miles
1 : 35.1 : 3.6 : 31.5 : 16.007 : 504.1
2 : 33.4 : 0.6 : 32.8 : 14.169 : 464.1
3 : 34.8 : 1.0 : 33.8 : 15.278 : 516.6
4 : 33.1 : 2.5 : 30.6 : 16.548 : 505.8
5 : 35.2 : 3.6 : 31.6 : 15.522 : 490.1 Max Fill
6 : 35.8 : -2.2 : 38.0 : 14.781 : 562.0
7 : 33.1 : 1.2 : 31.9 : 14.469 : 460.9
8 : 35.6 : 3.3 : 32.3 : 16.087 : 520.4
9 : 34.0 : -0.6 : 34.6 : 15.223 : 526.8
Totals
-------------------
9 : 34.5 : 1.5 : 33.0 : 138.084 : 4550.8
Overall MPG Display Error for 9 tanks: 1.5MPG overestimate
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Checked the MPG Since Last Fillup numbers against computing the actual miles driven and fuel used manually? I find the (2011 460) numbers to be consistently 2 mpg or more higher than actuality. To be as accurate as I could I used the same pump at each filling, letting it stop automatically when full. I now wonder at the accuracy of the "total mpg"--which shows 14.1 for 15,000 miles. I drove 5000 of those, and never got more than 12.5 mpg (by the Lexus meter.)
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I have a 2007 Ranger XLT 2 Door Extracab and have a question about the seats in this vehicle. I'm a 6' 1" guy and have long legs. I've lamented how little travel the seats (esp the drivers seat) has. Since I have long legs I have the seat as far back as it apparently goes. On long trips, this becomes exceedingly uncomfortable. To top it off, I had a knee injury recently and the range of motion of my knees are less than normal, making it impossible to drive the truck with the limited ability to move the seat further back.. My question is: Is there a way to get the seat to go further back, without extensive engineering work? I've noticed this seems to be a Ford thing as my wife's 2012 Escape has the same problem.
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I have a Camry 2007, V6 and 3 weeks ago speedometer stop working and brake light, ABS light and check engine light came ON.
I had the car checked and P0500 code saying speedometer malfunction. All 4 speed sensors has been checked OK, computer engine replaced nothing change, all 3 lights are on and speedometer is not working.
I also noticed if I pull the connector from SKID control ECU I do have the same lights ON so with or without the connector plugged the same lights are on. Looks like no communication between SKID control ECU and....
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1989 Camry, 2.0L A/T- 97K mi.- This car has developed a violent shaking condition when traveling at highway speed. It only occurs after the car has been driven for at least 1/2 hour. It does not appear to be related to an individual wheel or axle, and happens only when the accelerator pedal is depressed and the car is in gear and moving at 50+ MPH. Steering is not affected, nor does turning the steering wheel increase or decrease the shaking. The shaking stops when the accelerator is released. The engine runs smoothly, with no misfire or vibration.
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The vibration on my passenger seat is at any speed I notice noises coming from the front of the car like if something is loose, I took it to the dealer and they told everything it's fine and I told them that's b.s. what can cause my passenger seat to vibrate?
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I recently (<90 days, < 3K miles) had inner & outer tie rods replaced on the right side; they were rusted from when I lived in PA and had some play in them. Now I'm hearing a funny sound at low speeds (like when parking) that's just like a stick getting caught in the wheel well ("thunk") that seems to be coming from the same spot, but I can't seem to replicate it let alone hear it at the shop. This is a 2001 Camry LE 2.2L I4 with 97K mostly highway miles and one winter on salt/snow.
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On my 2006 Camry, my ABS comes on intermittently when braking (~5% of the time) and the speed is very slow (5 mph or less). Exact speed is hard to say. I think one of the ABS sensors is misreading. No ABS fault light on dash.I have an explanation of how to check the sensors for AC voltage when spinning the wheel using a DVM.
1. Without a lift can I check this under the hood instead of at the wheel? Possibly at the plug into the ABS module.
2. Someone else on another thread mentioned that their dealership hooked in a monitor and drove around.
When I asked my dealership how they would diagnose this, they said they would do the same check as I mentioned above (#1). This would be expensive and since it is intermittent, they might not see anything. Do this monitor exists and what it is called?
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Since having my engine replaced with a newer used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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1992 camry 4 cylinder ... Since having my engine replaced with a used engine block my idle speed when I first start it up or when it is cold is around 2000rpm which lasts for about 2-3 minutes until it begins to fall to the normal range of 1200-1400 and finally to 850 or 900rpm when warm. how can I fix this or is it okay to idle at 2000rpm for a couple of minutes? is it hurting anything?
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Symptoms:
-Car "Surges" at any speed. Loss of power is significant.
-Check engine light is on , DTC code = P0420
Tried:
-Fuel injector cleaner
-Spark plugs replaced around 40k miles ago
-Checked for leaking valve cover gasket (oil in plug wells) None
Can a clogged fuel filter cause this? At idle the car is fine, the symptoms seem to only occur when car is under load (In drive). My son drove this car an it always seemed empty meaning he never put much gas in it.
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I have a 2003 Toyota Camry. About 10 months ago, when I get a transmission fluid change, the mechanic told me that my power steering fluid is dirty. A few month later, in the cold winter month, my steering wheel make loud screeching noise when the engine is cold only. The mechanic told me that I have a small power steering leak. But since I don't see the power steering fluid level goes down and the mechanic say I don't have to fix it now, I didn't do anything about it.
About a month ago, there is a squeaking noise come from my steering wheel every time I drive very slowly out of (or into) my driveway and turning the wheel. Now I heard the noise when I drive slowly (10 mph) and turning the wheel too. So what is the problem that cause the noise when I turn the wheel at slow speed? I only drive about 5k miles a year. Is it safe if I just continue to ignore the problem?
Also, the color of my current power steering fluid is amber, but a little dark. Which power steering fluid should I buy?
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I have an '02 Camry with 82,000 miles. I recently noticed a clicking from the front left wheel starting at 68-70 mph. The click varies in frequency with slight bumps in the road. It seems to stop if I touch the brakes, and it might get less if the road turns enough to increase the G force (not too many times on highway going this speed on a curvy road, so I'm not sure.) It never happens under 65 mph.
We recently had local flooding and I drove through about 8 inches of water. The noise was a few days later in dry weather at 80 degrees. It did not occur when the car was starting off cool, but not until I was driving for about 5-10 minutes. The tire and wheel look OK, but it has not been on a lift nor have I been to a mechanic yet. I don't want to get talked into expensive repairs that I don't need, but I don't want to put off something now that is dangerous or will turn into a bigger expense later.
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Nearly new Camry with 9,000 miles. When trying to get back up to speed after making right or left turns, there is a definite hesitation before accelerating. No hesitation when accelerating from a dead stop. Also transmission kicks down at very small hills/grades where if not on cruise control, it would not need to "kick down" to maintain speed. This is a 4 cylinder engine and provides adequate power when not running in "cruise". I suppose this is just the nature of the breed. Except for these two small problems, it is a fine comfortable car.
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So i just recently purchased my 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 about a month ago. At first everything is great which it STILL is but lately I've discovered that I'm hearing a weird & SERIOUSLY IRRITATING noise/sound/rattle! Every time I drive between 10mph-40mph and it gets rapidly fast as I increase speed.. thats the RATTLE noise. I did my research and it said it can be a loose bolt or a loose heat shield underneath but I'd like some advice from Toyota Nation. Also when i make a slight turn I hear a weird clunking or some weird unexplainable noise. All in all this car is awesome .. smooth/FAST/comfy seats for me/agile/great on gas compared to my 2011 Camry 4 cylinder I had ..
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I have a 2000 Camry, 4 cyl. It was in an accident on the front right before I bought it. I took it to Sears for alignment and 4-6 adjustments were made to pull it to within spec. One evidently is not correctable (the caster). After I bought it and after the alignment, I replaced the sway bar link, as the upper ball and socket was very loose. The problem I am trying to solve now is when I turn at low speed, I get a sound like a plucking of a large rubber band. (BUNG) I jacked and blocked up both sides and turning both ways all the way made no sound or play, and nothing is touching like the wheel well plastic or other parts. Then, I lowered the front right (where the accident was) to put weight on it, and it no noise when turning. When I lowered the left side also, there was still no sound. No sounds or shaking at 50-60 mph.
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