Ford 6.0L Power Stroke Diesel :: Lost Power And Got A Shake When Trying To Accelerate At Highway Speeds
Feb 8, 2017
I have a 2005 6.0. I just got done doing the HPOP seals, injector o-rings, stand pipes and dummy plugs. I have drove the truck 600 miles since the work with no problems other than a wiring issue I got fixed...
I was driving at highway speeds, and all of a sudden I lost power and got a shake when trying to accelerate. I pulled over and turned it off, and when I went to restart it I got nothing at first, then it went to what seemed like a partial crank followed by a thud. So I'm thinking I just hydro locked it. I waited a few mins and tried again, and it started but had a few knocks for 15 seconds or so, then it ran rough with smoke pouring out of the exhaust (grey then turned kinda white).
I the only codes I have are for the egr which I've had unplugged for a long time, and a glow plug code, but when I started it back up, I had no codes. I'm baffled. I did notice I have oil on my oil filter housing at the cap, a little oil had slung on to my wire harness and my intake. I don't even know where to begin!
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So I was driving down highway when I lost power. Engine was still running just had no power and would blow black smoke when I got on the accelerator. I pulled the EGR valve and noticed it had rocks stuck keeping the valve open. Cleaned it all up and put it back in. Went for test drive and seemed good again until few miles in same problem. Took it apart again and same thing.. rocks. I did this 3 times with same results...rocks getting stuck in my valve.
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My dads 2012 f250 6.7 shakes SOMETIMES at speeds anywhere from 30 to 65mph he had ford look at it they said that everything looked fine, all the normal items were checked. How can something like that just show up for a few minutes then go away for days at a time. He said it shakes the whole truck then he slows down it goes away then speed back up and its gone. He does need new tires and balanced but I would think if that was the issue it would be a consistent shake or am I wrong?
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I have a 2006 f250 6.0. the truck has 101k miles and to this point I have had zero issues. I am having trouble loosing power after running at highway speeds. Once I stop and begin to accelerate the truck looses power for a few seconds ,Belches smoke and begins to operate normally. I had an egr code, so I replaced egr and the problem persist. It is intermittent and does not happen if I stay under 50 mph.
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2003 f-350 6.0 4wd dual rear wheels
4 inch superlift suspension lift, dual shock steering Stabilizer
33 inch wheels.
4 inch turbo back exhaust
Other than that it's really bone stock
Here's what's going on. In 2wd, between 55mph and 62ish mph, once I hit a constant speed, a rumble beneath my feet emerges. If I either speed up or slow down, it immediately goes away.
Does the same thing in 4wd high.
I can eliminate front drive shaft and u joints seeing as they shouldn't be turning while in 2wd. I did notice that when I push up or side to side motion in the front drive shaft, there is a click and a bit of motion. Is that normal? Just a side thought.
When i take off there's a bit of vibration from the rear half of the truck, but I've isolated that to the center support bearing. With all this being said, none of these symptoms were around before I lifted it.
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Have a 03 f350 with the 6.0 have been experiencing very harsh shaking problems. This only happens at highway speeds 55-60 any other speed is smooth as can be weather it's 25-95 mph. The weird part is that it only shakes when the truck shifts into overdrive and it shakes bad and if you lay into it like you were gonna pass someone it stops then shifts back into overdrive and shakes again.
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Since day one my 2016 F250 occasionally has a reed sounding vibration at highways speeds near the passenger side occupant handle on the windshield pillar. Talked to a service advisor at the dealer about it, what it could be, so this must not be a common problem . The issue is intermittent and can not be reproduced on demand. I tried blowing compressed air all around the area of the Windshield to see if I could reproduce the sound in a shop setting, but no luck. Only thing in common with this noise is 75+ MPH during a rather windy day. I'm a little reluctant to drop it off at the dealer since intermittent problems are hard to diagnose.
YouTube...
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I've been noticing some weird, very subtle engine sound changes while driving at highway speeds lately. Something almost like surging, but not. I don't know how to describe it. I might try to make an audio recording next time I take it out so I can explain it.
Anyway, I don't know why but ICP popped into my head. Maybe, for some reason, the engine was varying ICP causing the surging sounds.
So I hooked up AE and did a test. I've attached a screen shot.
With my idle speed actuated as high as it will go, and ICP actuated as high as it can go, I can only get a pressure of about 1450 PSI. I always thought ICP should go higher than that. I seem to recall reading somewhere around 3600 PSI.
So am I misinformed, am I reading the data wrong or do I have a problem? How high should Injector Control Pressure go? I missed it in the screen shot, but ICP is actuated to 100%.
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While pulling onto the highway and pulling pretty hard lost engine power all boost then engine truned off. Top of engine is covered in oil..... What happened?
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My 2004 6.0 has lost some power and the head gasket is leaking into the coolant. How long can i continue to drive the truck before too much damage is done to the engine?
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I have a 2003 6.0 when it has having troubles trying to cut out when running low rpms but would throttle out of it then it lost all power cab filled with smoke and died now it does nothing won't even try to turn over everything under the hood is covered in soot I'm ready to pull the cab just wondering if I didn't loose any oil or coolant...
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I added LED lights to illuminate the running boards on my Lariat. Did this about 15 months ago and all was fine until this week and I noticed they weren't coming on any longer. Both sides are out of commission. The running board lights on each side are wired to the respective plug for the running board lights on each side. The interior lights that are on the same circuit work fine (fuse #12 in the passenger side fuse box).
So I'm scratching my head trying to figure out why both sides have gone out at the same time but the fuse is ok. It's winter here and my truck doesn't completely in the garage so I'm hoping to limit my time lying under the truck out in the cold, on a wet floor! I thought there might be another fuse in the engine compartment fuse box but there isn't, at least according to the manual.
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My 2006 F250 was towing my 5th wheel when it started to loose power and eventually died. Would not restart. Replaced all fuel filters to no avail. Towed to mechanic shop. Has a little over 100,000 miles on it. Waiting for mechanic to check it out.
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I have 2005 f350 with 365000 km on it I have it for one year and don't have a problem till last week. I was pulling van on dolly uphill and sadden lost pover, so I stopped and check oil leaks ,transmission .... But everything looks ok in couple minutes start engine and go home (10 km). Change fuel filters trans filter, looked good for 50km and star losing power again and doesn't want start. So I skan and its show me next numbers.
Key on engine off
Ipr-15%
Icp-0psi
Icp-.26v
Ficm main power-47.8
Ficm logistics power-14.5
Ficm sync is good
Engine crank
Ipr-85%
Ficm main power-48.0
Ficm logistics-12.5
Icp- 625psi
Icp-.77v-1v
So what I have to do?
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Currently truck is in the shop after having multiple episodes where it lost power. It has 47,000 miles on it. When pushing down gas pedal, just does not want to go. Very slow to shift through the gears and get to highway speed. Turbo was not there, and there was also a hard shift/jerking from 2nd - 3rd. Did notice the traction control sensor kick on a couple of times....which was just replaced since a hole rubbed through the wiring. (took it to Ford twice before they found the problem)
They told me today that the code generator said to look at wiring but they did not find anything (heard that before) and that the fuel is possibly contaminated with DEF. If that is the case, someone is messing with my truck! What I don't understand that if the DEF does turn out to be in the fuel tank, wouldn't we have the problem continuously and not intermittently over a month after driving thousands of miles and going through numerous tanks of fuel? We drive and average of 60 miles per day just for work, half interstate/city.
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This is a new truck to me 03 Excursion, the owner has done a lot, gave me receipts for a lot of work and cosmetically it just seems taken care of. About a year ago hpop, ficm, oem egr and 3 injectors. He wasn't happy with that mechanic and still having problems so went to a different (supposedly better) shop. This time turbo cleaned, all 8 injectors and passenger head was redone and put back on with oem bolts. Apparently it was found that a nut was dropped down valve cover by the first shop! Somewhere along the way the ICP and GP module has been replaced.
I've only driven it a couple times and seems great until last night. It was loosing power and in about 10 seconds died and wouldn't start back up. Pops but doesn't stay running. WIF dash light on and no CEL codes. Not sure where to start/what to do. I've paid for most of it and was planning to pay the rest and transfer title but I'm not comfortable doing that till I'm confident it's good to go.
I drained the separator and seemed to gush out like it should and don't think I saw water. I'm planning to take the sensor off the filter there, inspect and clean it but I don't imagine that's the problem. I do see oil coming on the back of the engine and front of tranny on the drivers side... maybe ICP is all oily and failed? I don't know much about these, just been trying to read. What should I do as some first steps? Do I need some sort of scanner? It seems like it's starving for fuel. It was about 1/4 of fuel when I bought it and filled it up the night I took it home and have put about 80 miles on it since. Is it possible it's got bad fuel or water?
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it's now 1,500 miles away on the side of the road.White smoke, knocking and lost power. Truck has 133,000 reman engine installed at 46,000. Is it common for hydro locking to bend a rod? He sent a video and it def sounds like a rod and degas is empty.
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I drive an 06 f350 with a 6.0 diesel. My truck has quit on me twice in two months. It lost power then stalled and would not restart. I had just changed fuel filters but checked them anyway to see if they were plugged. They looked clean so i put them back in and the truck fired up. It ran good then two months later it did the same thing.
I noticed I could not hear the fuel pump so i pulled the cap off if the top fuel filter to see if there was fuel in it, and heard air being sucked in (or pushed out?) as i loosened the cap. I put the cap back on then turned the key and i could hear the fuel pump working. I waited for glow plugs and it fired up. Is my engine getting vapor locked, or sucking air? If so then why would it only happen every now and then instead of continuously?
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My uncle bought an '05 that stopped running one day. He was driving down the road and engine lost power. He was able to coast into his driveway. Unfortunately, it's been 10 years since I've work on a 6.0 and no longer have any of my computers.
He did state there is no check engine light. He's going to change the filters today / tomorrow. I'm hoping to make it down there this weekend to look at it, but what to look for. Even more unfortunately, we really don't have any specialty tools or gauges.
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I have a 04 F30 4x4 with a sick 6.0 power stroke. It has 230k on the mileage and ran good. I was driving at speed when she started missing like it had lost an injector and loosing power. The RPM's dropped under 1000 so I had to pull over off the highway. When i pulled over and put it in park it shutoff. Tried several times to get to start but after 10 minutes it started up. I drove about 2 miles and it started the same process. This went on 2 more times before I was able to finally limp home the 40 miles.
It never shut off again but ran very poorly. I put a new valve in and when I tried to start it just mad a pound clunking/clacking noise. The repair shop put a starter in it because it had stopped engaging and was going to ruin the fly wheel. I looked at it and it was eaten up pretty bad from trying to get the engine to turn over. So now all it will do is a single clunk and will not turn over. He says it could be a bad injector that flooded a cylinder or blown up in the bottom end. He did take serpentine off and still no go.
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Ok yesterday while driving my truck the glow plug light came on couple times and lost power but the light would turn off and power came back. It has done this before and it was the injector harness grounding out on the engine. I replaced that last time. I checked over the knew one and did not see any chaffing on the harness.
Now this morning I go outside to start it and I can hear my fuel pump and vacuum pump but injectors wouldn't cycle. It has also done this before but I could never figure out why. Last time I tore into it checking through my wiring harness and couldn't find anything. When I put it back together it started fine.
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