Specs for the two bolts/washers for the passenger side (only) exhaust hanger? I'm referring There one hanger on the passenger side only w/ two captive threads in the subframe.
View 3 RepliesOn my 2003 Excursion 7.3L, I notticed I'm leaking what I think is coolant from the passenger side rear hard line by the front spring hanger. I haven't pealed the plastic loom away yet, but I did see the loom is chaffed near the spring hanger. What lines are the ones that carry coolant, and can I just cut the hard lines and replace with a section of rubber hose?
View 3 Replies2011 Lexus RX350 ... What are the Torque specs for the caliper bracket bolts (front and rear caliper brackets) a pdf will be great
View 1 RepliesWhat the torque spec is for the driveshaft to rear differential flange mounting bolts on the 99 F150 4x4 supercab?
View 1 RepliesJust put on a 4" MBRP turbo back system. What torgue should I tighten the clamp bolts?
View 2 RepliesMy wife's 97 f150 4x4 had an exhaust leak on the passenger side. 7 out of the 8 bolts holding the manifold on are snapped off. 4 of them are snapped off 1/8" below the top of the hole on the cylinder head . I am I unable to get a drill in to drill these out. The other 3 I've tried welding a nut on these but they won't budge and I wring the nuts off. If I have to pull the head(something I don't want to do)can I just pull that 1 head or do I have to tear the intake and everything off?
View 1 RepliesHow do you get the front lower control arm bolt off of the passenger side? There isn't even enough room to get a short socket between the bolt and the oil pan...
I imagine I can get it off with a box wrench and some sweat. But then how do you torque it putting it back on? Crows foot?
So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
View 1 RepliesMy passenger low beam headlights went out. I replaced the burnt out bulb but it still won't work.
View 2 RepliesI got a 08 ford f450 sd in the shop with a cracked abd broken bolt in the driver's side exhaust manifold, any tips tricks on getting it out,I have everything loose but I can't for the life of me get the egr cooler out of the way to access the top bolts to the manifold so I can replace the manifold, or a link to a service manual would be great.
View 3 RepliesI was doing some work on my R today and noticed something. On the passenger side front half shaft, at the transmission side, there is a bolt that has worked itself lose that is rubbing against it. I cannot get a bit into the bolt to tighten it back up as is since it is pressed against the shaft.
View 7 RepliesI have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
View 4 RepliesWas cold this morning...started up my car, and noticed oil kind of sprayed on the snow on passenger side towards front of vehicle. Vehicle is a 2007 camry le with about 80k on it. Guess I will park it until I find out what it might be.
View 1 RepliesI have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
My 2007 camry makes a clunk noise when I drive over a pothole on the passanger side of the car at low speeds. The noise comes from the rear passenger wheel area (which I tested with an empty trunk).
I took it to sears and they want to replacing the rear sway bar links and bushings for about $420. It seems like an easy job, so I took the car home and yanked on a bunch of suspension parts. The wheel doesn't have any play, the sway bar end links rotate slightly as you would expect a ball joint to rotate (towards to bumper or towards the hood).
The only play I could find is in sway bar itself, it moves left to right (driver side to passenger side) a little. In the picture below, there is a gap between the silver collar and the bushings. Is it possible that the bushings I have are too thin? Should they be tight against the silver collar to prevent sway bar movement?
My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
View 2 Replies1990 Bronco II, 2.9l, auto, 4x4. Was running just fine. Sitting in Park just idling away. All of a sudden, just starts running real rough, ticking, etc.
Towed it home. This morning, started up OK but still running really rough.
While running, pulled spark plug wires one at a time from the drivers side. Had no effect but could tell the wires were sparking as I held them up to metal.
Turned truck off. Drivers side exhaust manifold COLD, passenger side HOT.
This sounds real bad to me. Am I missing something simple that could cause the drivers side of the engine to not work?
We bought the X like almost year an a half or two years ago. Since the day we bought her shes had an exhaust leak on the pass side. Ive been a mechanic forever and it didn't bother me at purchase. Well I finally get around to it this last weekend. My son and I get to repairing her on saturday. Well we got manifold off with the intention of ordering a new set of headers. Well Luke talks me into just replacing the broken stud (got lucky only had 1 on the pass side). And replacing the gasket. So I took the manifold to get resurfaced,got the new studs and gaskets.
We reassy everything. It went well, start her up and wow shes finally quiet. I love it. So were sitting there admiring our work (took most the day as we had to drive 40 minutes away 1 way to get parts and angle drill alone). As were sitting there chattin for 5 minutes im like do you hear that.....Its getting louder luke WTF.....WELL IN 5 MINUTES THE DAMN LEAK IS BACK... It sounds like its back at the original place but while listing with a hose it sounds like its also at the y pipe. But the sound can be traveling......
I def am not a fan of Autozones felpro gaskets but they have worked in the past. But they look NOTHING like the factory units but still should work. Well I searched all weekend and read tons of posts on what to get. As I def want to replace the y pipe also. In the end said ok,what the hell. I just got off the phone with BANKS. I ordered headers,y pipe,gaskets,etc. I didnt want to spend that much but after pricing headers (from all manuf's and a new y pipe) the BANKS complete system wasn't much more...
Kit should be here tomorrow or wed at the latest. And I just want my X to be exhaust leak free. Im not big on taken pics during install of stuff but ill try and ill post up after it done.
I had found the torque specs for the oil plug, oil filter housing the oil filter housing drain plug but I am unable to locate now.
30 ft lb drain plug
25 ft lb filter housing
10 ft lb filter housing drain plug
I have an exhaust leak on the passengers side of my 2006 F-150 5.4 triton. If I do the repair which is the correct way to do it? Do I replace just the blown out gasket?
Do I need to buy a new exhaust manifold and gasket kit, with exactly what parts should I buy in the kit? Or do i need to replace both sides?
1969 American Motors AMX....
I purchased a brand new motor and had it installed in my AMX w/ a 650 demon carb. This motor has as approximately 20-30 miles on it after engine was installed. Engine had some blue smoke coming primarily out of passenger side exhaust at first. The smoke was light to non-existent when car was started, and got progressively worse the longer the car was running - after driving for 3-5 minutes, the smoke would envelop the whole road.
Smoke also got worse as a few more miles were put on the engine. Engine started fine and idled fine - no problems when stopped at a light for a few minutes. Oil pressure fluctuated between maybe 35 psi to 90 psi while driving (to the best of my memory). Brought the engine in to be looked at. I've attached pictures - the ones in the engine were taken w/ a scope.
Found the following:
Oil extremely fouled and smells like gasoline.
8 spark plug gunked up and black
5 spark plug black (across from 8)
Ceramic burned of #5 header runner
No oil leaking past intake manifold gaskets
Fuel (and maybe oil?) on top of intake valve, and no carbon deposits
Fuel (and maybe oil?) on top of piston
Vertical scoring on top of cylinder wall
PCV valve connected to intake manifold, going directly to #5 and #8 - not sure if this is a problem or not.
What I'm trying to figure out, is this a problem with the motor, or a problem with the installation...