So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
View 1 RepliesMy passenger-side motor mount is cracked out. Is this a common failure? The aluminum part that connects the "frame" to the engine mount is cracked, the hydraulic rubber mount looks almost new, not sure how the previous owner missed the crack in the aluminum. Car has 140K miles on it. I'm thinking about just having it welded up.
View 8 RepliesThe passenger-side motor mount on my '99 1.8t has blown (again). I'm on my second mount already and want to make sure I address all other possible causes before I go through another one. Looking for keeping this new mount intact a bit longer? (BTW the original mount lasted approx. 120k miles and the replacement has "only" lasted 85k miles)...
View 4 RepliesRecently took 2012 Malibu V6 to dealer for warranty water pump replacement. During the repair the bolt holding the "snubber" (engine mount shock damper). To the frame was cross threaded and snapped off in the frame. Dealer contacted GM engineers and was told to replace that section of frame.
They told me that they would have to drop tranny n engine to do it and would have my car for 3 to 4 more weeks. They have already had it for 3 weeks. Anyway it sounds serious and i am concerned for the integrity of my vehicle after having that extensive of tear down and reassembly.
Upon putting on my winter wheel i was checking if the bolts were too long and my rear passenger side wheel wasn't spinning. I took the wheel off and checked the rotor and it took a lot of force to spin because the caliper didn't go back. I took the brake fluid line out hoping it would decompress the caliper and it did not, and brake fluid leaked out a tiny bit. This leads me to believe that my caliper is bad. Just want to make sure before I order another one
View 4 RepliesI just might be out of luck but wanted to check here first. My driver side lower control arm is dangerously rusted. I bought a replacement and was able to get everything undone except 1 of the 2 bolts that go into the sub-frame. The one towards the rear of the vehicle came out ok. The one towards the front of the vehicle just spins. I have read that it is probably a welded nut to the frame that has broken free and is just spinning inside the frame.
I have seen pictures and another thread on here (but for a santa-fe) where the owner had just drilled a 1 3/4" hole through the bottom of the subframe to grab that nut. Well mine is in a location that a 1 3/4" hole would almost be more than the width of the frame itself. So I thought maybe just a "slit" in the frame so I can get a open end wrench up there to grab the nut. I drilled just a test drill to see where I would land, sure that I would be past the end of the bolt. But I wasn't. I can see the threads of the bolt.
What hardware I need to install the passenger side motor mount spacer from Euro Image Tuning. Been sitting on it for a while and cant find the hardware that it came with. Would like to install it, but dont remember what it came with..
View 2 RepliesHow do you get the front lower control arm bolt off of the passenger side? There isn't even enough room to get a short socket between the bolt and the oil pan...
I imagine I can get it off with a box wrench and some sweat. But then how do you torque it putting it back on? Crows foot?
A friend was attempting to replace his control arms but unfortunately he ran into a bummer: the bolt is free spinning inside the frame. What's the solution? It's a 2002 Santa Fe .....
View 16 RepliesI can't get my front (passenger side) motor mount out because it's under the refrigerant line. How would I do that? There is a black, coiled "jacket" that goes around the line right before it enters the back of the radiator, can I detach it there? The line snakes all over the engine compartment and appears to be bolted onto the radiator on one end and the other end goes through a clamp and into the dash area. [URL]....................
View 5 RepliesI had to really hard brake today over a very very short distance...the tires locked and the car slid for about 5 feet. Car is 2000 corolla, 4-spd auto.
As soon as I came to a full stop, I notice the engine was still "spinning" like it was in second gear...because the RPM was around 1000rpm (idle is 650). As soon as I started moving, there was a slight clunk noise (sounded like it came from CV half axle/transmission).
Although rare, This also happened a couple of times before when hard braking. It downshifts to 2.. idles around 1000rpm for a couple of seconds... and then there is a "slight" clunk noise.
Other than this, the transmission/engine has been very smooth and the car has no problems.
Specs for the two bolts/washers for the passenger side (only) exhaust hanger? I'm referring There one hanger on the passenger side only w/ two captive threads in the subframe.
View 3 RepliesI had the struts replaced a few months ago along with the strut mounts and bearings. Since then I've developed a popping and clunking noise from the passenger side spring/mount area. I've greased it and it has quieted it down but I noticed that when the car is not moving and I turn the wheel from lock to lock that very top piece of the strut pretty sure it's called the hat moves along with the wheels while the drivers side does not. What's wrong? Is it something as simple as the nut being to lose or to tight?
View 3 RepliesI was doing some work on my R today and noticed something. On the passenger side front half shaft, at the transmission side, there is a bolt that has worked itself lose that is rubbing against it. I cannot get a bit into the bolt to tighten it back up as is since it is pressed against the shaft.
View 7 RepliesI have recently replaced all 4 struts in my car with monroe quick struts. I have a 2002 Accord. Everything went wonderful until a few weeks later I heard a rattle from the front passenger side. Its a light "tinny" rattle, almost as if a bolt was loose and it was jiggling around. It doesn't happen every time and sometimes goes away altogether. I took it to my trusted mechanic, and they spend a good 45 minutes inside looking at things and overtightened everything to no avail. I have ruled out a defective strut (as I replaced it with one and the new one does the same thing) and I ruled out the stabilizer bar bushing (brand new OEM part I installed) and I ruled out the sway bar link (also new).
View 4 RepliesThe other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
My 2000 f350 is leaking oil from a bolt on the passengers side valve cover. it is one of the bolts on top of the valve cover. Can I just remove the bolt and put a rubber washer under it or do I need a new valve cover?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2006 2.0t 6mt w/ 60k miles which I bought new. Ever since I can remember when I am stopped at stop lights or driving slowly (less than 10mph), i sometimes hear a knock knock knock coming from under the hood. It normally happens 8 times in a row, perfectly spaced (probably 1 thunk every second). It almost sounds like an electric valve or pump cycling/priming/purging. I would say that this 8 knock cycle happens just a few times a week. I have tried to capture the sound with my blackberry, but it is pretty quiet.
View 16 RepliesYesterday right after driving over a speed bump my car started smoking and the engine light flashed. it seemed of burning plastic. The part smoking is under the engine cover of the passenger side . it is a metal box with a plastic plug and looked to have "fins" the car also threw codes P301 and P2300. The car is a 2006 is this a coil.
View 5 RepliesLooking for some detailed instructions on how to change the engine mount on the driver's side on 2004 r32. My mechanic will work on it but he mentioned that he might have to drop the transmission but I thought that this is not necessary.
View 2 Replies