Malibu :: 2012 V6 - Engine Mount Bolt Broke Off In Frame
Feb 21, 2015
Recently took 2012 Malibu V6 to dealer for warranty water pump replacement. During the repair the bolt holding the "snubber" (engine mount shock damper). To the frame was cross threaded and snapped off in the frame. Dealer contacted GM engineers and was told to replace that section of frame.
They told me that they would have to drop tranny n engine to do it and would have my car for 3 to 4 more weeks. They have already had it for 3 weeks. Anyway it sounds serious and i am concerned for the integrity of my vehicle after having that extensive of tear down and reassembly.
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So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
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Over the past few months I've been hearing a popping sound from under my seat when I move a certain way and figured it was just the cold or another new sound well today I found out it was the seat frame mount and it finally snapped, pictures to follow.
Went to the dealer they quoted part/labor is gonna be around $1000 so I took it to a friends shop to see if he can weld it or if it's too far gone, should be getting it fixed this week, for now it's zip ties and really cautious driving.
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Where i can get my hands on a Fukengruven license plate frame?
Any pics of the Platypus tow hook mount on their car?
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A friend was attempting to replace his control arms but unfortunately he ran into a bummer: the bolt is free spinning inside the frame. What's the solution? It's a 2002 Santa Fe .....
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I was putting on the H& R sports springs tonight and was onto the last corner, front passenger when one of the 3 ball joint bolts broke off. It was so rusted that the nut didn't want to come loose. I used too much force and out came the piece. Do I just go buy a new ball joint at the local VW dealer and swap it out. I didn't touch the other two and the car is still driveable. It's the middle one, exactly as shown in this photo from the DIY.
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Looks like if it was broken off but they tried to jb weld it in place and now I cannot get it out.
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The other day when i wanted to start the car, I found out my battery was death so i decided to ask my buddy to push me and crank it on gear. Car shakes as normal and engine started, but then i heard a weird noise like if something was rubbing. I turned it off and popped the hood. I found my engine leaning forward and toward the passenger side.
So the next morning, I checked the bay again and i found out that it wasn't the motor mount. Motor mount is ok, but then i found a broken bolt that holds the bracket to the block; the one that goes right next to the water pump to be more specific. Also in the back of the block there is a bolt that hold bracket to the block again and the thread whole was enough weak to break when the other bolt failed. So I did some research and i found that there is a solution for the bolt in back of the block.
What I am concerned is for the on the goes right next to the water pump. It seems that it broke the whole thing including the part where the bolt threads go. I just had a shop install I.E connecting rods, new piston rings, and rebuilt the heads. They put a new timing belt kit and all its job required. I think they might have a bit of fault on this since it had to be removed when they did the timing belt kit. Anyways I don't want to think my block will be a junk now because engine is running like a champ, and that would be a bummer.
-Bolt that is broken in two pieces.-
-And where it is attached to the block-
-Part of the engine where this all goes.-
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We drove our 2009 Honda to and back from Nova Scotia from NY. The Serpentine tensioner bolt broke off after we got home. Anyway, we pulled into Jiffy Lube and they both said that that should not have happened. The mechanic said the same and gave us the old tensioner back to take to Honda saying it was a defect in the car. The car has 45,000 miles on it. My question is what department to approach at Honda if a part is defective? I am thinking it may have been better to take it to Honda in the first place.
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I'm looking around for coil packs and came across these: Granatelli Pro Series Extreme Coil Packs.....
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3 weeks after having my brakes replaced. At 60 mph yesterday.
The garage has the car now and is saying it was a freak accident and not something they caused. I call foul to that. It's a 2007 Subaru Outback.
What should I say to them to make sure this gets repaired properly? And what unseen damage should I be looking out for? The wheel run has a groove from where the bolt rubbed. That's all I could see. And I could lift up and wiggle the caliper.
It was only the pad replaced on the front brakes. It was pads and rotors on the back.
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I'm trying to replace the CV axle on my wife's 2006 Chevy Malibu, and the project is frozen in its track by a seized bolt.
Specifically, the top bolt of the two bolts that hold the steering knuckle to the strut. I got the nuts off the other end of each bolt with a breaker bar no problem. I set a jack under the steering knuckle and raised it a bit to relieve any load on the bolts, and with some PB blaster and a hammer, I got the bottom bolt out.
But this top bolt just will not budge. I've drenched the thing in PB and pounded the living hell out of it all to no avail. I don't have any socket that will fit the bolt head and besides, it's not really threaded in there. I don't have an air compressor or impact tools. The only thing I can think to do now is to get a torch and try to heat up the metal around the bolt head to maybe loosen it up some.
One way or the other the bolt has to come out now because I've mushroomed the other end of it with the hammer and a nut won't go back on it.
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Well i had an exhaust leak on this F250 and so I started torquing the bolts on the manifold to the head. (45 ft.lbs) A couple were very loose so I was thinking "Great, this may fix my problem!"
My first mistake was probably the Harbor Freight Tools torque wrench.
I am on the driver side, second from the rear and then bang! I see a gaping hole where the bolt used to be. Bolt on the floor. I cant see up in the hole to the head, I think it broke flush with the head.
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Bought a 2013 FX4 two weeks ago to replace my 94 F150 and got to enjoy it for a whole 10 days before I got rear ended at a stop light. The car hit me doing between 30-40, fast enough to make her airbags go off, and it was hard enought to force the bed to hit the cab. Unfortunately, the damage is more than cosmetic body work. The bottom of the bed is pushed up under the bedliner and the frame is bent in front of where the leaf spring connects. My concern is that the adjuster will want to "fix" the frame and I will be stuck with a lifetime of alignment issues, suspension issues, etc. I know the rear of the frame is not as much an issue as if the front was bent, but I don't know how they could fix it without cutting it and welding in a new piece, and how can I know that the frame is true?
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I have an 2012 isf with sikky headers and borla exhaust, and my left header hits the frame of my car when I'm taking off.
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I have a round plastic disc and one side is tacky to stick to the dash. Are these things easy to remove off the dash years down the road? I'm also worried the circle will be discolored from the rest of the dash.
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I dropped the F250 (30k miles) off at the dealer yesterday- in the last several days I've noticed a small leak puddle under the front drivers side frame member. I asked the service writer if they had had many trucks in for the radiator leak and he said "no". He has heard the waste gate solenoid buzzing the last two times I've stopped in for routine service and had said they would fix it when I left it with them.
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Early around 8k on my 14.5 SE I had to have the valve cover gasket replaced due to oil creeping out of the edge of the valve cover close to the air filter box. Now yesterday as I was replacing my fog light bulbs I noticed that there is some oil creeping around the bolt on the bottom where the Transmission casing joins the engine.
I understand that I'm putting a lot of miles on this car (10K now), but I really don't feel like its right for a car to have such oil leaks so early in its life time.
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where to get it? I want to plug up my bumper holes and just put the plate on the tow hook.
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I just did a front bumper repair and now I need something to mount my plate because because in Ontario we need a plate in the front and the back. I current have it zip tied to the lower grill. Any good option for a mount that doesn't involve drilling?
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I ran over a curb on the passenger side and somehow broke off all 4 tabs that you screw into to hold your fog lights in place.
How to fix this issue without replacing the bumper? I don't have any cracks in the bumper but I do have scratches on the bottom of the bumper.
I don't suppose I can get this replaced under warranty can I?
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