Camry :: 2007 SE V6 Drains Quickly If Leave Key In Ignition While The Car Is Off
Jan 31, 2014
I've been having lots of electrically problems with my 2007 Camry SE v6 for the last 3 years. First, the car drains quickly if i leave the key in the ignition while the car is off. Secondly, I have gone through 3 batteries over the past 3 years. Previously, what use to happen is that my cars warning lights would start to come on such as the brakes ABS and battery lights, the head lights would be dim. Then just not start (just fast clicks when ign is turned). I would jump it and it wiukd run for a few more days and die again.
So I'd replace the battery and thing would be fine with the car for a year. Then it would start again, and i'd replace the battery and it would be good for another year. I use to buy costco batteries. This time I tried Bosch. After 4 months with the Bosch, the same thing is happening. My battery light came on, then my abs light. And now my lights are dimming. Earlier, it was just the battery light but everything, including the lights were ok. Im sure I'm sure I'm going to need to jump it next time I start the car. I took it to Toyota last time, and it cost be an arm and a leg to diagnose. They said its just a bad battery.
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This is an annoying thing. for example when i just have to step out for 3 seconds and grab my mail I don't want to shut off the entire car and restart it.
1) Is there a way to leave the ignition running and get out of the vehicle and lock it?
2) I heard we can go to the dealer to enable the remote start feature, is this true? or would we need to do a 3rd party addon?
2008 lexus es350 i have
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Purchased a 2006 prius not too long ago with just over 100k miles.
I like the car, I average about 42-44 mpg. It is really for my commuting. The question I have is it seems like my brake pump runs all the time. When I take my foot off the brakes, it runs, when im in a drive-thru, my battery drains super quickly, however if i put in park instead of leaving it in drive while in the drive-thru, it does not.
My only thought is there is something wrong with my brake pump and the way it drains batteries.
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The battery on my 4.2 liter inline 6 2008 chevy trailblazer is draining without the key in the ignition. I have checked the alternator, fuses, and starter with no luck. What might be causing this problem?
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i just picked up an '07 Camry XLE and every time I start the car (push start button) the horn gives me 3 quick honks. Same happens with the remote start. How to turn that off? Besides just not starting the car
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I just purchased a 2007 LS and at night when I have headlights on Auto, when I leave the car and lock it, the headlights do not go off. If I do not lock it, the headlights go off ok. What could cause this? Is there some kind of setting for this?
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Truck ran good, but for the past month every once in awhile it would just stall quick, no rumbling, no smoke, like someone just turned off the ignition, if you turn the key it would immediately fire right back up. Well today it would not start back up. Pulled the IPR plug, no good. FICM replaced abt. a month ago. Checked with Scan Gauge, oil pressure abt. 925 while cranking dropped to abt. 780 after extended crank. And no codes. I do notice when turning key on I hear less clicking/noises going on. All dash lights come on and turn off as usual. Tach doesn't move.
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We bought it in 2010, since then we have replaced 5 ignition coils and 2-3 batteries. Everytime the car acts up, the VSC and traction lights come on and the car starts stumbling and hesitating. The car eventually dies within a few minutes. Pull up codes and its always been an ignition coil.
Well we had all of these covered under warranty until the warranty expired in Aug. A month ago this happened again, and thought the battery was dead. It ended up being #4 coil, so I replaced.
My wife drove last week and lights came on and lights started going on/off and dinging at her and the car died. I jumped it to get it home, turned off the car and was dead. Voltage at battery was 9 volts.
I charged overnight and started the next day. I pulled negative battery cable w car running to check alternator and it stayed running, so that's good. The car is now starting just fine again.....until this happens again.....which it will.
My question is what in the heck can be making all of the coils go bad and why is the car intermittently throwing warning lights and just dying? This last time the codes pulled we P0345, PO365, PO390. All of which I don't see an explanation for.
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Any easy solution to reseating this wire in the connector? It got yanked out by accident when i was removing an ignition coil under the wiring harness. 2007 camry v6
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I'm getting Codes: P0300-306 (Misfires) and P0356.
I have researched the definitions of these codes and see that P0356 indicates an ignition coil failure on coil "F" (which would be Cylinder 6?)... but how is it possible only one coil is failing but I'm getting multiple/random misfires on all cylinders?
I've looked at the wiring diagrams and the only place that I can see a "single point failure" that can cause such a thing, would be the ECM itself...
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The fans are operating as they should when my 2007 Camry SE V6 engine is running: if AC is off - fans are off too till the coolant temperature raising to the middle of the temp gauge, then fans are started to spin on slow occasionally; when AC is on fans are running all the time. But when I turn off the car fans are running on full speed till battery is dead. What can it be? ECU?
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I have a used Toyota Corolla 2007 that has engine problems
I bought this for $8000 in Dec 2012 and did not realize the previous owner was using synthetic oil. I used the regular oil and changed every 3 mins. At one point I started seeing a lot of smoke and the oil was burning quickly (like in a month for 300 miles). The oil change guy recommended to use synthetic oil and that should remove all the sludge. It's been a year I am using the synthetic oil and I still have the sludge issues.
I took the car to the mechanic today and he is saying the piston rings could have worn out and asking to rebuild the engine and that would cost $2800 including the taxes. My wife will be using this car to drop and pick up the kids from school. So I don't want to take any risks. Should I go ahead and rebuild the engine?
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I am having a shifting issue with our 2007 Toyota Matrix (85k mi) 5 speed manual, but only when shifting from 3 to 4 and only when shifting quickly. For a week now when I need to shift quickly from 3 to 4 (such as accelerating when merging onto a highway) if I don't pause in neutral for a half second to a second I get some resistance going into 4th. There is no gear grinding noise just difficulty to put it in and then finally it gives. My wife describes it as a "ka-chunk" feel ... I'm afraid it will cost me a lot for a new transmission if that is what is causing the issue, but I've also read it might be a clutch or fluid level issue.
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I recently replaced a burnt out left turn signal bulb in my 2002 camry v6 xle. The signal light was blinking quickly. Once replaced problem fixed. Now bulb is not working again and fast flashing is back.
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I just replaced my turn signals with LED's, so obviously the car is reacting to the LED's by flashing quickly.
My question, is there any way of slowing down the speed of the turn signal WITHOUT replacing the LED back to stock bulbs?
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I have recently purchased a 1998 Toyota Camry 4 cyl. I had to replace the water pump as it was leaking coolant, I also changed the front and rear brakes and also the front rotors. As I was driving it after the brake change I noticed that I would seem to lose power, kind of like it wasn't getting any fuel or something. My rpms would go down, but most of the time would quickly rise again when I pushed on the gas.
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My 2001 Toyota Camry had an oil change and 80,000 mile checkup and drove home fine. We went out of town in someone else's car the next day for the weekend. Driving to work Mon, it began shuddering and the RPM needle was waving quickly between 0.5 & 1.5 rpm. This only continued to happen when my foot was off the gas, especially when stopping. It drove fine when accelerating & higher than 45 mph. I took it back to the mechanic and & said he found that the solenoid had gone bad & affected the idle, & also that with the solenoid not working my spark plugs had been burned. He changed it all out, and it works ok now for me, but my wife had a day a week later when it vibrated when she drove over 60mph. I used it today and had no problem. Is that likely that the solenoid would go bad w/out warning and affect the idle & spark plugs that way? Should I take it somewhere else?
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I finally got my hands on tech stream cable and software and turned off DRL today. I also adjusted light sensitivity setting from normal to light 2. What i was trying to accomplish is to have faster respond of headlights coming on Auto and turning off quickly once it become light again if for example I am going through a tunnel.
I was in the mall today and headlights came on when i enter the garage. When i was leaving it was still light outside and yet even after 1 minute being outside of the cover garage the headlight would not turn off. I finally put it on DRL off and then back on auto and headlight stayed off.
Did i change the wrong setting? Is the result of me putting on light 2 means that while it will come on quicker in dark situation it will take longer to turn off?
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I just had my 3rd Canister purge valve installed a month and a half ago, and it's already dead.
I noticed while I was driving that it was constantly pulsing after the engine warmed up, and continued to do so as long as I was driving.** This did not seem normal to me (I can hear it in the cab).
The solenoid is burning up and measures open circuit. No codes are thrown during the time it continues to pulse, but when it burned up again, the 3 codes (P0441 Incorrect Purge Flow, P0440 Solenoid Failure, P0443 Purge Valve Circuit Trouble) are immediately thrown? indicating the solenoid is fried.
The system runs a series of tests during normal operation, so if there was a problem with an actual leak or clog, it should show up as a test failure code, but does not. My inclination is that the problem is a sensor.
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Today the engine light was on and vsc was blinking so i took off the battery wire for two mins and put it back the engine light went off and vsc stopped blinking. So my question is should i leave vsc option on or off??
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My car is 1990 BMW E34 M20B20 that uses 4HP22 transmission and here is the problem:
When I put it from P into R it makes a sound like a hitting and doesn't move but you can understand it is on load, because when I step on the gas, engine cannot outrun 2000 rpm (even at trying to rev).
When I shift into N, it starts to move forward and it's drivable but not an engaged drive, and while traveling or not, when I shift from N into D, it retrieves the engaged drive and goes normal.
I think it cannot leave 1st gear or all forward clutches. What the problem could be?
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