I have an 09 camry se 4cyl with 165k. I believe the service interval on the plugs is 100k. However, 75% of my miles are from highway driving. Plainly put, the car still drives like brand spankin new and get gets 30mpg hwy. This tells me the plugs are doing their job just fine. What concerns would you have if any?
View 14 RepliesI've been noticing my steering wheel shakes if i normally brake going on the highway at high speed. My friend said that it's probably your brakes and rotors. Get them replaced and resurface and that should fix the problem. Can i get some confirmation before i do this?
1. I just had my tires replace at 55k and bought this car new back in feb 09. it has 62k.
2. also i've been reading up on camries fail water pump. i'm thinking of doing this over the weekend or should i just wait until i notice some leaks?
3. lastly, any major thing i need to be aware of. i've done the normal engine oil and filter change, cabin and engine air filter change, that's about it. i hope these camries are bullet proof like the old school (92-95).
So in the middle of a road trip 9 days ago my check engine light came on. I was 2 hours into an 8 hour round trip day trip. I was close to a Toyota dealer so I went there for a diagnosis. They said my MAF bank 1 sensor 1 needed replacing but they didn't have the part so couldn't do the fix but I'd be okay to complete my trip. They collected their $100 and sent me on my way with no warning lights on.
30 minutes later the check engine returns and I'm unable to accelerate. I stop the car for a bit and then am able to continue my trip. I have one other incident where when I was traveling at a low speed, I lost all power. I was able to drive home 4 hours with the check engine light on but no further issues with the exception that I got less than 20 miles a gallon for the trip.
Took my car to a local Toyota dealer. They independently diagnosed that the same sensor needed replacing. They also told me that my spark plugs were shot. According to the service rep, they looked like they were from a car with over 100,000 miles.
Is this possible given the description above from the first time my check engine light came on?
I can't get a single spark plug to come out of my 2009 Corolla S. I'm using a 3/8 ratchet with a 3 inch extension and a GearWrench 9/16" x 6" Magnetic Swivel Spark Plug Socket (3938D). Which is exactly what others have suggested. It feels like the socket is just spinning around on top of the spark plug. I'm kind of at a loss for what to do now?
View 10 Replies'03 Solara 4 cyl, 135K repl. Fuel pump, 45# press ok, NO scan tool code(s), turns over fine, no spark 2 plug. Started/ran fine before fuel pump change.
View 10 Repliesis there a diffrent spark plug socket too take out the plugs on the 5.4 3v motor cause i tried a socket i thought would work but i wouldn't go in the spark plug hole like what gives
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Camry, 2.4L, and used the spark plugs change DIY sticky and it seemed to go painlessly. However, after the new spark plugs, the car seems to idle rough. It has 95k miles, and I did the following in the same tune-up:
1. Changed Oil
2. Replaced Air Filter
3. Changed Spark Plugs
4. Cleaned Battery Terminals
5. Cleaned MAF Sensor
6. Cleaned plugs connecting to ignition coils
I used OEM Toyota plugs, and even called the dealer to see if the gap needed to be set. And they affirmed me that the gap is preset on these plugs.
I have a 2006 Toyota camry v6 1mz-fe engine. My buddy changed the all 6 spark plugs using Toyota oem denso.
The car drive weird after that. When I am on the stop light, the car is shaking ( coming from the engine area ).
When I am driving 60 mph, it shakes .
Two of my plugs locking clips broke today on the wire harness side where the coil over plugs into the harness today while changing spark plugs. They will plug back up, but they won't lock together like they are suppose to. How critical is this? It is my wife's car will she break down? I drove the car maybe twelve miles, and everything seemed fine.
View 8 RepliesDo the 2010 5.4 motors still have any issues like the cam phasers or the spark plugs breaking upon removal? I'm looking at a 2010 F150 4x4 but I didn't want the headaches that might go with it since it has 80k miles....
View 14 RepliesI am changing my own spark plugs for the first time. I have a spark plug wrench, dielectric grease, anti-seize compound etc.
I have a Haynes manual for my 2002 Toyota Corolla. The book was written before Irridium plugs were used. Should I tighten the spark plugs to the same torque specifications as regular plugs? The book says 158 inch pounds. How do I know I have tightened them to the right amount?
How do I avoid cross threading the spark plugs? What happens if you cross thread the spark plugs (assuming the car seems to be running fine)? Would I need a new engine or expensive repair when it is time to replace the spark plugs again?
This past Sunday, I replaced the spark plugs on my 2008 Toyota Camry CE, following one of the sticky DIYs. My car has approximately 107,xxx miles.
Last night on my drive home from work my CEL came on. First time seeing a CEL light since my BMW days, . Luckily, I have a OBDII scanner at home and after running the scanner, it gave me the following trouble codes:
- P0101
- P0172
I went ahead cleaned the air filter (I have an Injen SRI installed).
After doing some research on the interwebs, I have concluded that this code has to do with the MAF. Time permitting, I am going to clean the MAF sensor later tonight. In the meantime I reset the CEL, to see if it will come on again.
My only question, which I am unable to find an answer to, is:
Can there be a possibility that the P0101 and P0172 trouble codes be related to me replacing the spark plugs, or is this just a mere coincidence?
I recently replaced the spark plugs on my 2002 Camry SE V6 (Gen 5). Let me just say that it was INCREDIBLY DIFFICULT to reach the rear 3 plugs as they sit underneath the intake manifold, way to the rear of the engine compartment. To reach those, I had to unplug some wires reaching on top of the engine, then loosen the intake manifold.
Along the way I broke a tiny air valve that sits underneath intake manifold, and replaced it right away, before starting the car.
When everything was put back together, the car started wonderfully, only to notice the engine light come on. I had the codes checked at the dealer and they indicated a malfunctioning Catalytic Converter and A/F Sensor and some other emissions stuff. Later that day, the VCS/TRAC OFF light came on as well. The service guy at the dealer said those typically come on together with the Check Engine light, which sounds like something he pulled out of somewhere!
The car drives well, no hesitation, no weird behavior, but has no traction control, naturally. While loosening the manifold I had to use a little force to flex it out of place. My guess is that it I may have yanked something out place: may be a wire issue, or a sensor.
My old 1996 Camry with 2200 cc 4 cylinder engine, frequently keeps losing power to the spark plugs. I have changed the fuel filter and the ignition coil. That did not work. I also noticed that the car was starting when I unplug and replug the primary wire plug to the ignition coil. So I have replaced the primary power plug with a six inch pigtail and a used plug purchased from a salvage yard. This is not working either. The Toyota dealer near my house want to replace the igniter and the Engine Control Module just to be sure that these are not the sources of problem. The dealer did not test these parts. So I refused to replace the parts without a proper test. I would like to test these parts. Is there a test available for the igniter and ECM that could be performed. I have access to a lot of tools. I need a schematic and/or test to test these components.
View 18 RepliesMy 2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid is shutting down completely on the highway only after over 60 miles of driving. A red yield symbol flashes on the dash with the message, pull over safely. The car locks up and disables the ability to drive it. I then have to pull over on the busy highway, wait 10 minutes and turn back on the car. This will keep happening after continued long drives. I took it to a Ford dealer service department where they said it was a software issue, did some programing and sent me on my way. The car did the same thing on my next long trip. A few days after that I took it to a different dealer, where they said the water pump needed to be replaced. They replaced the water pump and assurred me it was fixed. One day later it did the same thing! I brought it back to the Ford dealer where we are now at a stand still with them not believing me that there is a problem.
View 2 RepliesI noticed my wheel rim is hot to the touch after driving about 30 miles on the highway. I assume that this is heat dissipation from the brakes. Is this normal?
View 26 RepliesYesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
View 1 RepliesSo, that means I have put 106,104 miles on my truck this year, and missed about 7 weeks for the truck being in the shop, could have been another 17,000.
So, it's time to replace the factory original brake pads?
I am having a problem where my spark plugs keep going out. I changed all the plugs, wires and coil pack on my 2001 Windstar and within a few months my van was running on 4 or 5 cylinders instead of 6 and this isn't the first time it has happened.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 saturn sl 2 and I noticed some oil around all the spark plugs. The engine seems to be loosing oil a little bit as well, about a quart a week. Its not buring it or leaking that I noticed.
View 2 RepliesI was having some problems and one of my friends told me to post up here before I went and saw my mechanic. So my car isn't starting (its a 06 r32). Now I've gone through a whole list of things and what I have worked out is that it is the spark plugs not firing (none of them are) although they are all brand new and were working not too long ago.
Battery is fine and fuses look good no warning symbols on the dash so I'm at a bit of a loss as to what it could be. Relays? Coils?