Lincoln - Mkzhybrid :: 2012 - Shuts Down On Highway Only After Over 60 Miles Of Driving
Jun 24, 2015
My 2012 Lincoln MKZ Hybrid is shutting down completely on the highway only after over 60 miles of driving. A red yield symbol flashes on the dash with the message, pull over safely. The car locks up and disables the ability to drive it. I then have to pull over on the busy highway, wait 10 minutes and turn back on the car. This will keep happening after continued long drives. I took it to a Ford dealer service department where they said it was a software issue, did some programing and sent me on my way. The car did the same thing on my next long trip. A few days after that I took it to a different dealer, where they said the water pump needed to be replaced. They replaced the water pump and assurred me it was fixed. One day later it did the same thing! I brought it back to the Ford dealer where we are now at a stand still with them not believing me that there is a problem.
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I noticed my wheel rim is hot to the touch after driving about 30 miles on the highway. I assume that this is heat dissipation from the brakes. Is this normal?
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Yesterday, I was driving on the highway at a 65-70 miles per hour (basically pushing it for my '96 RAV4). Suddenly, the car turned off. The engine cut out and the battery and oil signal came on. It did not lurch as if I had popped the clutch, nevertheless, I went to restart it as I was going down the hill and it made it home for the next 40 miles.
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I have an 09 camry se 4cyl with 165k. I believe the service interval on the plugs is 100k. However, 75% of my miles are from highway driving. Plainly put, the car still drives like brand spankin new and get gets 30mpg hwy. This tells me the plugs are doing their job just fine. What concerns would you have if any?
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I own a 2012 GTI. For about the last week the cat needs to be driven for about 8 miles before reaching operating temperature (190). If I make a stop before the gauge has reached 190, the car will cool of very quickly. I realize it is very cold outside but this car and previous GTIs have not had this problem. The heater will not produce heat for the first 4 miles or so which is also not normal. The car has 17,000 miles and is parked in a heated garage every night, fwiw.
Maybe the water pump or something else in the HVAC system?
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As I was trying to use up as much E10 before refueling with E0 I was watching the miles to empty and noticed what seems strange, to me. When driving in EV mode, with the ICE off the miles to empty kept falling! Apparently miles to empty somehow includes EV miles. So I checked the MTE both before and after charging and saw no change which indicates EV miles don't count. So now I would like to know what does MTE mean?
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I have a 2003 Lincoln Navigator with 156K miles. The engine shut down without warning. Towed it to the nearest Ford dealership. They could not find any codes from the computer, but note that compression was lost in the left cylinder bank. The mechanics said the likely cause is a cracked cylinder head and this known to occur in my model year.
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This is on an 2012 SEL, 34K on it. Since the last couple of months, I have noticed that there some wub-wub-wub sound coming the wheels, well, at least from the road surface while drivng on highway speeds.
The sound is just like something is touching the tires, but can't be sure. I may have sensed some very minute shaking as well which may seem correlating with the wub-wub frequency. But as you can see, I am not quite sure how describe it. It is not a distinct sound, not something very obvious. But it is there. I asked my SO too, and both of use can notice the sound independently, so it is perfectly reproducible. The sound appears to be coming from the front, but it is hard to pin point. I also tried opening the window at 65 mph, but the wind and road noise just drowns out all other sounds.
I have thought of getting its wheels balanced as the first step. Went to Costco but apparently they balance only the wheel with tires sold by them on them. I am thinking of taking it to the dealership but want to be prepared by some basic info myself. Hence this question. Hopefully, they wont come and tell me that the wheel drive shaft or some such needs to be changed.
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2003 F 150. 5.4 motor. 4x4. 270,000 miles. Climate control.
The A/C is ice cold.. For the first 12-15 miles, and then it shuts off and is warm.
I had it recharged at the shop just to be sure. When it works, it blows out the vent at approx. 42 degrees.. nice and cold.
This problem happens every time. Turning the climate control off and then back on doesn't work.
Shutting the truck off and then back on doesn't work. Wait a while.. Not quite sure how long, but the next time I drive it, it will work again. For about 12-15 miles and then blows warm again.
A bit of funky , moist smell to it when it blows warm.. Typical A/C smell I think.. The box could prob use a cleaning.
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Headed to town with the kids and my truck shuts off going down highway. I pull over and start it back up and make it to 30mph and shuts off again. This time it will not start. I have 1/4 tank of fuel, I first thought it maybe the issue inside the tank causing it to shut off. I get some diesel pour it in and it fires up for about 15 secs and shuts off. I pull the fuel filter, making sure o have fuel in the bowl. Start it up and it runs for about 10 sec. I then swap out the CPS. Same thing, runs about 20 and cuts off. I then call AAA because I am tired and ready to go home. I have it towed to my buddy's shop. He has not looked at it yet.
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I was driving my Towncar and I've noticed that it chimes 5 times then pauses. Then it does it again. I don't notice any warning lights on my dash board.
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2003 E-550 7.3L with IDM codes clear all code, do in injector buzz test P1276 and P1275. Start truck and SES light comes on. shut off truck code IDM code go to KOEF and have P1272, P1273, P1275, P1276. just replaced valve cover harness ohm wires to IDM put new IDM in. Truck shuts off while going down highway, turn key off then back on an usually starts on it own ....
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I have a 2000 GT with over 120K miles on it. The car works perfect, just a minor issue with O2 Sensor that I am going to replace soon
My question is, when I'm on the highway going around 70 to 90 miles on fifth gear, her RPMs are about 4K to 5K, is that normal??
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Owned my 2009 for 6 months now. Ever since purchasing it, car will vibrate significantly at highway speeds when first driving it, then decrease by 90% after a few miles. At first, since I purchased in winter, thought it was cold flat spots on tires. Dealer changed tires 3 times, finally with a new set of Turanza OEM tires. Still does it.
Service manager said he drove new 460's and they all do the same thing for a few miles. I have seen other comments on internet from other owners who report the same phenomenon. Don't think it is the tires since we went through 3 sets and it still does it in the summer. What else could cause a vibration until the car is warmed up?
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I have a 1990 Lincoln Mark VII, black on black, basically one owner, excellent condition... except one problem. While driving the car my speed dropped to 40mph, while my RPMs rose to 4000. Upon checking I found the plastic clip, which holds the linkage from the transmission to the accelerator had snapped. I replaced the part and still have the same problem...is my transmission smoked or is there an adjustment?
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I accidentally drove my Toyota Matrix in third gear at highway speed for at least 50 miles. Did I do damage?
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I have a 1994 F-250 that we have changed the thermostat, radiator, water pump, cap, hoses, and installed a spring fan. New heads. Hot heat in the heater. It runs normal at highway speed for around 10 or 12 miles and gets hot. pull up and idle and the temp retracts. Even the block has been blown thru. What could possibly be the problem?
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It will sync for about 10-30 seconds, then the car's Bluetooth just shuts off. It's not my phone, as the BT on my phone is working with everything else. I have unpaired, re-paired, shut everything down. It starts up again for that 10-30 seconds, and then it shuts off. Do I need to take it to the dealer?
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I own a 2012 Black Golf TDI, had it for about 3 months now and loving it.
Anyways, so I'm aware that when the car shuts off, the fan is still running until it finally cuts off. Last night I got home and when I exited the car, it was blowing pretty loud like the car was still on. I didn't think much of it and just went in the house for a few minutes. It was bugging me that it was louder than usual so I went out to pop the hood to see what's going on. Found nothing so I went ahead and started it up again and shut it off. The fan noise went away after that and shut off properly.
Is there any harm that the fan was blowing louder than usual? I know it's a little vague but just wanted to get an idea because this was the first time it happened.
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Since I cannot program addresses into the NAV system while my wife drives the car (or vice versa), I tried to just program them in while the car was parked on the driveway. However the car shuts itself off after about 2 minutes regardless of what I'm doing. I figure if I put the car into drive it would work, but I was charging at the time so the car wouldn't let me.
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I have a 99 escort that will just shutoff while driving. I drive 40 mile one way to work which is all I use the car for mainly. At first it seemed if I would shut the ac off it would shutoff the car but it always starts right back up. Now it is more frequent and happens whenever. You may be driving on the highway no ac and it just shuts off. I do not get the dash lights that show it's off unless I put it in neutral. If I don't shift to neutral the car will slow down like the motor is running and you can feel the transmission downshifting as we slow. It always starts right back up. I cleaned the throttle body and maf sensor but no difference. The other day I didn't think I would make it to work it carried on so bad. Then the drive home it happened only twice. Maybe the ccrm? And the car has no codes.
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