2003 E-550 7.3L with IDM codes clear all code, do in injector buzz test P1276 and P1275. Start truck and SES light comes on. shut off truck code IDM code go to KOEF and have P1272, P1273, P1275, P1276. just replaced valve cover harness ohm wires to IDM put new IDM in. Truck shuts off while going down highway, turn key off then back on an usually starts on it own ....
View 5 RepliesMy E550 van front/box back has an electrical problem.
Sometimes when I first start it and step on the brake my backup beeper warning goes on. Most times it stops once I start driving, but sometimes it continues for a while or comebacks back by chance. Doesn't matter where the shifter lever is, park, reverse or drive.
Yesterday it woke up really bad and anytime I used a turn signal or flasher I got a fast blinker and beeper going. Figured I had a light bulb out. Looked around the truck and noticed no taillights. Shut truck off went inside a building with flashers on, beeper was going. When I restarted, beeper stopped and I had right side taillights but no left Drivers side.
Drove back home still no left side. Where to start looking. Electrical is not my strong suit.
I have been getting inspection stickers at the same place since 07 without any problems,this time they plug her in to test and the truck stalls and the test machine locks up ,happens multiple times.
They find bent pin on OBD plug and fix but still keeps happening. We are baffled it sounds like a short somewhere but there are no codes or check engine lights on.
The only new thing on the truck is a new flatbed with led tail lights and marker lights. The blinkers flash fast from the leds could they be messing with the computer? I'm going to inspect the engine harness today to make sure there's no wires grounding I don't know what else to check...
2002 F350 7.3L ....
Headed to town with the kids and my truck shuts off going down highway. I pull over and start it back up and make it to 30mph and shuts off again. This time it will not start. I have 1/4 tank of fuel, I first thought it maybe the issue inside the tank causing it to shut off. I get some diesel pour it in and it fires up for about 15 secs and shuts off. I pull the fuel filter, making sure o have fuel in the bowl. Start it up and it runs for about 10 sec. I then swap out the CPS. Same thing, runs about 20 and cuts off. I then call AAA because I am tired and ready to go home. I have it towed to my buddy's shop. He has not looked at it yet.
View 3 RepliesDriving down the highway, battery gauge read fine power, but battery light came on. In a remote Alaska situation so I couldn't diagnose, plus truck is new to me. Kept driving towards civilization. All gauge dropped. Then lights dimmed, then truck died. This was over about 15 miles. At night with lights on. Truck has a plow with plow lights, aftermarket cranking stereo which I was using, heater on (Alaska). It sits 70 miles up the highway from where I'm at getting ready to go back and work on it. So...
Of course first thought it is the alternator, not providing enough power for all this. Looked inside, it is a newer looking reman. Belt is fine. My question is, if not this, what else could it be? I'm hoping to haul the alternator and whatever else out there and get it going without having to drive back and forth for more stuff I need. I can always return stuff I don't use. Probably I'll throw a new battery in it as well. But after that, anything else I should be thinking/ready for?
Had some issues with truck turning off when i hit bumps threw p163a and 1639 turned out to be bad alternator. Changed issue went away but..
Battery abs and check engine light are still on... Should they clear on their own?
Ive cleared the codes through my tuner and they come right back up after a few seconds. One battery is new the other old but tests ok.
Heard there's a 30 drive cycle some sau 40 but i believe I've started and driving it that already... 2008 6.4 ....
I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
My 2003 just doesn't drive right anymore. I bought some new tires and all of a sudden it crabs when on the highway 70-80 mph. I have new ball joints. Hubs, and a few other front end parts to rectify the issue with no luck. Alignment shops haven't been any favor either. Tire shop replaced the tires with sweet michelins that worked minimally. So I went to measure the wheelbase, center to center and sure enough there is a 1-1/2" difference between the left and right side. I have had a few minor bumper dings, one at appx 20 mph, but nothing earth shattering. Can something be loose in the rear end? It does feel like the rear wants to swing around and be in front.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauged was acting odd, and clicking under the dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on the brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change. Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect a battery and just clicking from under dash no start ?????? not a battery, won't even jump. The battery is good, power to starter, Posted this also in light-duty trucks wrong place think this is the better place. Gauges pinned to right with key off
View 3 Replies2003 f350 2wd 5.4 auto cab and chassis with 40 gal rear tank replaced fuel pump/fuel filter/spark plugs/IAC no codes
View 7 RepliesI noticed a moaning from the front end a few weeks back and it seems to be slowly getting a little worse. It is only noticeable when I'm accelerating or maintain speed, but as soon as I let off the accelerator and start to decelerate, it goes away. Sometimes, when the truck hasn't been driven for at least a couple hours, I pull away and there is a really noticeable sort of "clunk clunk clunk" but then it goes away and it just moans. I can also hear some noise from the front end at highway speeds, but of course it is hard to hear much else other than engine and road noise from the cab. It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3 and four wheel drive.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 5.4 auto trans and I live in Minnesota where it has been -15 and my truck won't go. It has only half power it acts like its cutting out and it won't even hardly move in Drive if I put it in 1st or 2nd it will go or reverse but the engine is only half power the OD button is flashing the check engine light came on and I pulled the codes and there is 7 of them. I think its electrical issue but don't know where to start! Here are the codes, P0443, P0750, P0755, P0743, P0135, AND (P1747) which my book doesn't go that high?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford f250 5.4l brought it to the shop today and they said the pcm isn't communicating with the trans. The truck hesitates and stalls out at a stop. idle is OK a little studder. OD light blinks also. I put new ho2s in, new oss from ford, new plugs and coils (motorcraft).
View 3 RepliesI have a 03 F250 5.4 4x4 auto, last year I had a problem with the truck shutting off randomly. So after doing all the dumb stuff and research I ended up concluding that the FP relay was acting up and my understanding is that, it is located in the fuse block. So not wanting to replace it I wired up my own relay next to the safety switch in the passenger side kick panel and it has been fine ever since. I did put a new pump in it (Cali emissions) Now to present day-
Over the past month my truck would have a slight hesitation problem when accelerating on the highway/up grade. The issue was it would go away for a while when you would shut the truck off and be good for a while. Well then it started happening all the time.
I knew I was do for a tune up (215,000) so I did all the plugs, COP's, fuel filter and a PM. It got a lot better but was still there at the top end. So after doing a lot of research I found a lot of people having the same issues, so for testing purposes I cut the CAT out and installed a section of flex pipe. (Iwill be installing the cat back in)
So last night I take it out and its even worse...I went don to my buddy's place and hooked up a Versus and got no codes at all, no misfires on the counter..absolutely nothing. So I did what I should have done in the beginning and duct taped a fuel pressure gauge to the windshield and took off.
At idle I have 30 or so PSI, and when it was fine it would stay around that, when it started acting up it would drop to 5-2psi under load and go back to 30 or so PSI at idle. The other thing is now I only have 1/4 tank of gas.
What I am concluding is that the pump is getting hot and weak, because when I had a full fuel tank it was better and now I have less fuel to cool the pump and it is happening faster. Should I just throw another new pump in it? Or go after a voltage problem to the pump?
I recently bought a 2003 f350 7.3, I ordered a tuner for it and tried installing it, at one point while the ECM was still connected I did something and it sparked. Then the powertrain relay (302) started clicking really fast. It clicked in the on position. I switched it with another and it was also clicking. So since I sparke the ECM I figured I messed it up. I ordered another one and it's doing the same thing. Then I pulled fuse 45 (which was good) and put it back in. When I turned truck to on position it wouldn't click anymore, but it still won't start... What it could be? OV ruled out the ECM, powertrain relay (302) and fuse 45, I don't know what else to check.
View 2 RepliesMy 2003 6.0 truck lost most of its power. It has the SCT programmer. It used to run great it would roll coal really well then it slowly started to run worse. Now it runs really sluggish especially when its cold. IT takes forever to warm up. On the freeway when ur going a constant speed it bucks and jerks a lot. It won't roll coal anymore and just runs like crap. A mechanic said I had 3 bad injectors. But I don't believe it.
View 2 Replies2003 f250 crewcab 6.0 auto 4x4. I all of a sudden started feeling a vibration under the truck near the back when I accelerate and when I let off the gas no other time. No noises or clanking just vibration. I can wiggle the driveshaft inside the carrier bearing do you think that could be it or is it the rear end.
View 14 RepliesI've had DTC P0171 & P0174 (lean in bank 1 and lean in bank 2) for a few weeks now (check engine light cued me on it). Autozone scanned it for me. It's on a 2003 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L.
My first step was to clean the MAFS. Light came back on in about 30-40 miles. I then replaced the MAFS. 30-40 miles and the light came back on.
My first thought was disconnecting the battery wasn't resetting the comp and thats why the light was comming back on.
I went and picked up an Actron cheapy OBD II Scanner today at lunch. Cleared the codes with the scanner and drove back to work.
Checked the codes when I got back (no light on but was curious) and it shows P0171 & P0174 pending.
I've checked and the dipstick is seated properly. The hoses on the air intake appear to seated properly as well. The top hose is a pretty loose fit but it was seated all the way down. The top hose was oily. Not sure if this is normal or not. Could the loose fitting oily hose be the culprit?
Also, what is the lower hose? It comes off the back of the air intake and goes to the driver side valve cover. I know it's not the PCV hose as that is on the passenger side valve cover....right?
I have an 03 with a 6.0 diesel, going down the road and started losing power and then died. Won't start, and I don't have a scan gauge. Several sources said ipr valve, and from videos on youtube I thought may be a good place to start. I bought a socket and pulled the valve, to check the screen. There is no screen whatsoever on the ipr. The oils clean, as I had changed it about 200 miles ago, and I ran a magnet in the hole looking for a screen, couldn't find anything so I used my fluid pump in the hole. No trash, screen or anything. Do some ipr valves not have screens? What would be my next step??
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 2003 F350 super duty dually automatic transmission 6.0 deisel 4x4. The 4x4 is not working. with the hubs in auto when i flip the switch to 4x4 high nothing happens.The same with 4x4 low putting the truck in neutral. I can only find 2 fuses using the owners manual that says anything about 4x4 and both of them check out good. Also the owners manual says when i turn on the key I should see a 4x4 light and a low range light momentarily. Neither of these lights are showing up. I don't hear any clicking or any noise of any kind when trying the 4x4.It acts like an electrical issue but not sure where to start.
View 7 RepliesCan get up to speed about 55-60 in my 2003 f250 6.0 4x4 truck and hit the brakes hard and the pedal gets hard almost like you cut the truck off and the truck doesn't stop well I can let off the pedal and hit it again hard and it works like it should. Also when it does this the power steering doesn't work. I was on an exit ramp and almost wrecked when I exited off the interstate I hit the brake pretty hard and couldn't steer I let off the brakes then hit them again and it worked fine and so did my steering. It would seem that the two are connected somehow. What's wrong?
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