Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2003 F250 - Moaning Noise From Front End At Highway Speeds
Jul 8, 2013
I noticed a moaning from the front end a few weeks back and it seems to be slowly getting a little worse. It is only noticeable when I'm accelerating or maintain speed, but as soon as I let off the accelerator and start to decelerate, it goes away. Sometimes, when the truck hasn't been driven for at least a couple hours, I pull away and there is a really noticeable sort of "clunk clunk clunk" but then it goes away and it just moans. I can also hear some noise from the front end at highway speeds, but of course it is hard to hear much else other than engine and road noise from the cab. It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3 and four wheel drive.
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I have a 2011 f250 6.2 cclb and it shakes around 70 to 75 mph. Not terribly but enough to annoy the crap out of me. Now I have put new tires on it recently, new Rancho 9900 adjustable shocks, I have it aligned regularly and tires rotated and balanced every 5000 miles or so. I have had two dealerships look at and my local shop and they can't see anything visibly wrong with it.
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2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
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My factory-ordered 2016 F250 CC SB 6.2L 4X4 3.73 is about 6 weeks old. Driver and passenger side door rattle noise (in upper back corner) at highway speeds (65-75 mph) has gotten progressively worse over those 6 weeks. See attached video.
Trying to determine if this is caused by:
Door seals: the temperature here in Iowa has dropped from a few weeks in the 90's to the now in the mid-60's.
Could the temperature change have caused the seals to change shape/structure and result in the rattle/noise?
The exterior seal between the front and back doors (attached to front of the back door): mine seems a little loose on top, but nothing that would cause this kind of noise.
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I have a 2003 F-250 6.0L 2WD and I recently noticed a rattling thumping noise under the front end on the passenger side. I noticed the rattle shortly after I got new tires, which are a hair bigger than the tires I had on it before. I thought it might be my new tires rubbing since they were bigger but then I noticed the rattle when I had my wheel straight and also when not moving at all. I've been driving it for a couple of weeks now with this rattle and I've been able to determine that it rattles most when I am going downhill and turning to the left putting more of the weight of the truck on the front right suspension components.
After reading several threads my first attempt to find the problem lead me to the discovery of a worn sway bar bushing. I thought this was for sure the problem and replaced both bushings and end links. But the rattle didn't go away. Then I thought maybe it was a bad wheel bearing so I replaced the wheel bearings in both front wheels. Still no change. Lastly, I happened to find a loose ABS line in the front right wheel well that was no longer secured and was banging against plastic. I secured that and still no change. All the bushings seem to be in good shape so I am considering taking it to a mechanic since I don't want to just replace everything hoping that it solves the problem piece by piece.
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Bought my truck in April and it has basically sat in my driveway until I sell one of my other vehicles. I've started it every 2-3 weeks and let it run for about 1/2 hour each time. I've had to charge the batteries once (about 2 months ago) when they were low and wouldn't start the truck.
I've also moved it out of the driveway several times (about 50 feet - moving forward and reversing) when having to make room for other vehicles. I noticed last weekend when I started it up, there was a bit of a whine coming from under the hood ... it wasn't too loud. I didn't move it that time ... just let it warm up ... again for a 1/2 hour.
This morning I went to move it again for a service vehicle. It was cool outside (about 32 degrees). There was a loud moaning and groaning this time every time I moved the steering wheel. I sat on the street idling and the same moaning happened when I touched the brakes and didn't move the steering wheel. The steering also felt stiffer than usual (although I don't have a good feel for "normal" as I haven't really driven this truck except when I brought it home in April covering 1,000 miles ... it had no symptoms or issues then).
I'm hoping it's just from sitting so long without really being driven but I'm feeling that something is binding or perhaps there is a problem with the power steering.
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A few months ago I bought a used 2006 F350 superduty with manual/ auto 4x4. For the last few months I have had an intermittent moaning noise coming from the wheels. It happens when going at slow speeds (under 30mph) I have checked all calipers and made sure none were frozen. Brake pads have at least 75% life in them. I put the truck in neutral to spin all tires by hand and try to replicate the sound.
The front seem to spin easy. The drivers rear will spin but is hard to move and the passenger side I can barely move (I'm assuming it's because it's the drive tire? I believe it has something to do with the rotation of the tire because when driving it moans in intervals. Like it's at a certain point in the rotation something is rubbing. How to troubleshoot further? When going through parking lots it is quite noisy and I can feel the running in my brake pedal.
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My 2003 Ford F250 V10 seems to have a vibration, sometimes at all speeds and sometimes at freeway speeds. I replaced front hub assemblies and ball joints and rear calipers last year. When braking i have a vibration in rear as well, which I think is from uneven rotor but can it be causing my vibration? Also sometimes I can smell hot brakes from the rear.
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The other day I pulled into the parking lot put it in park and let it idle for a couple minutes, it stumbled and when I started driving off it was missing. I pulled the valve covers off and check the connection.. I drove it home and it had a bad misfire at 1500 RPMs. The truck shook violently at that RPM but when I got it up over 2000 smooths out..
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I have an '04 EX with 6.0. When braking at highway speeds the rear end shudders until I get the truck slowed down some. Around town speeds of 45 or less the problem is almost non-existent. It almost seems to be hydraulic instead of pads/rotor issue. Wouldn't a warped rotor show up at slower speeds as well? I have some good mechanics around, but have never found a great brake shop that I can trust. Go in needing pads and they try and upsell saying this or that is going out.
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2003 F250 4x4 7.3L
While doing my brakes in the front, I tried to wiggle the front left, nothing. Solid. Then when I did the right, I was surprised to see it wiggle when I grabbed the tire. So I looked to see what was moving.
Not the U joint, not the ball joints, But it looks like what is a drive shaft.. (I am new to this stuff). On the right side a shaft comes out of the axle just before the U joint and the rest of the wheel assy. What is wrong?
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I have a bad wobble/vibration coming from front end i think i replaced hub locking hubs u joints truck dont feel safe at all took it to ford they say its normal no way its not just starting doing it few month feels like the 4x4 is in use when hitting bumps when driving if you go slight left or right it seems too make act up more.
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Have an 03 f250 6.0L and the tie rod from pitman arm moves easily and there isn't a steering stabilizer, noise got worse after I put new tires on front but it's a loud clunk that I can feel. I've replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. Would the worn tired rod make that noise or would it be ball joints?
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2003 F250 super cab, 335,000 miles. the seats are all in good condition except the drivers seat bottom, no rips or tears but the outer bolster area is worn. Looked at new replacement and no go. Is there a decent cover or a aftermarket replacement that looks good? The truck is not worth high end stuff, just would like it too look better
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In the last few hundred miles of driving, I notice there is a strange noise coming from what appears to be the front end of my truck. It sounds similar to a buzzsaw or a power sanding tool whenever it comes in contact with an object. The noise starts at around 30 mph, stops from 55-60mph, and starts again around 65 mph. The truck rides and drives normally and there doesn't seem to be any metal to metal contact noises or clunking and the hubs dont seem to be hot to the touch. I was thinking improperly balanced tires, wheel bearing, or front carrier assembly. What it could be? The noise just suddenly started and I was wondering if I should keep driving it?
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I've been noticing that one of my front hubcaps has been backing off slightly. I tap it back on and it's good for a while. But lately I'm noticing that I have to tap it back on more often. I took it off today, thinking that I might need a new one. The part number on the inside is IC34-IA096-AB. It's on my 2003 Ford F250 4x4.
I pulled the opposite cover and tried it on the side I'm having trouble with and noticed the same thing. Upon further inspection, I noticed that the chrome plated trim piece that covers the steel rim has tabs that should be flat to the rim. I'm referring to the area where the trim piece ends, near the lug nuts. On the one that I'm not having trouble with, it's flush/flat all around. But on the one I'm having trouble with, some of the ends are not flush to the rim. That is why the hubcap is not seating in those areas. I can see the gap and I can also push down on that section. It's almost as if that trim piece is separating from the rim? I tried using a punch and giving it a couple of whacks with a hammer, but it doesn't press it back to being flush with the rim.
Why would the end of that trim piece that covers the whole wheel lift up on the ends? Is there a way to get it to sit flat?
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2002 F250 4 wheel drive manual hubs, 7.3....
My first thought was to have the tires rebalanced and rotated to see if it is tire noise? I am hearing damage on top of the noise from the 7.3, hard to be sure!
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I have a 2002 F-250 7.3. I was driving home from work on Tuesday (highway), I heard an intermittent noise coming from the front end, sounded like a rubbing/grinding noise. Yesterday on my way to wok, same thing, on and off. Yesterday on my way home the noise was constant, didn't go away. The noise comes at about 45mph and stays until I'm back under about 45mph, so mainly just on the highway. I put the truck in neutral and let off the pedal and the noise is still there which tells me it isn't engine related.
Yesterday after work I jacked up the front end, spun the tires, no noise. No play in the tires top/bottom or side/side. Took the tires off and what I did notice is the right axle u-joint is shot. I am hearing the noise in 2wd so I don't know if its the u-joint that's making the noise. Could it be a bad wheel hub bearing? Is it the u-joint? Maybe needle bearing??
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I noticed yesterday that my tire on the driver's side has rubbed a flat spot on the rubber brake hose. I bent the metal tubing so that it doesn't rub any more, but should this be of great concern? Obviously I'd hate for it to rupture, but it looks as though it's not too bad.
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We have a lot of snow and a lot of ice up here at the moment and my 2003 ford F-250 SC Fx4 isn't performing so well. The truck is stock other than a pair of 285/16R BFG A/T's
I have been noticing that my rear tires will spin while trying to go up hill on some ice or snow covered areas and my front tires just sit still while in 4x4 or 4x4 low. In the case I just described I remain stuck in place until the rear tires can get a grip then I continue up hill. I don't understand why my front tires are not spinning as well, to me this seems just like 2 wheel drive not 4x4. I have been using ESOF most of the time. I have mentioned in other threads that I do plan on upgrading to warn premium hubs, but I am wondering if its that my truck isnt actually shifting into 4x4 or if there is a reason why even in 4x4 my rear tires would spin while my front tires do not?
I am confused because when I shift on the fly while driving I can feel the 4x4 kick in because it just feels different than driving with 2 wheel drive, but then something like I described will happen and I start second guessing myself. What might be happening? It's not that I am opposed to switching to the warn premium hubs, but is that actually going to fix this issue or is my truck acting normally??
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I am needing to replace the front hub wheel bearing assemblies on my 03 F250 4x4. I know Ford changed the studs from coarse thread to fine thread in between the 02 and 03 model years. Mine has a build date of 08/02 and I haven't been able to find the exact date they switched over. I'm ordering the parts online and want to get it right the first time.
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