Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: 2008 - Truck Turning Off When Hit Bumps - Codes P163a And P1639
May 13, 2016
Had some issues with truck turning off when i hit bumps threw p163a and 1639 turned out to be bad alternator. Changed issue went away but..
Battery abs and check engine light are still on... Should they clear on their own?
Ive cleared the codes through my tuner and they come right back up after a few seconds. One battery is new the other old but tests ok.
Heard there's a 30 drive cycle some sau 40 but i believe I've started and driving it that already... 2008 6.4 ....
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So I've been having this problem that sometimes when I am turning the truck dies. It doesn't stutter or anything it just shuts off and will start right back up. It doesn't do it all the time either. Was also having an issue where the windshield wipers would shut the truck off too. But I don't think that's the same problem.
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2003 E-550 7.3L with IDM codes clear all code, do in injector buzz test P1276 and P1275. Start truck and SES light comes on. shut off truck code IDM code go to KOEF and have P1272, P1273, P1275, P1276. just replaced valve cover harness ohm wires to IDM put new IDM in. Truck shuts off while going down highway, turn key off then back on an usually starts on it own ....
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I have a question about when my truck is in 4 wheel drive. I've read a lot of posts but couldn't find specific answers to these questions: When I take a left turn theres quite a bit of resistance and a little hopping. Also when turning in reverse its almost like the truck is getting hung up and a with resistance, something doesn't seem right. Could any of this be if only one hub is engaging? Also, when i just manually lock the hubs, I only noticed that the passenger side axle spins when I manually turn the front drive shaft.
Also this is the first time I've used the 4 wheel drive. And I recently replaced front axle u joints, as well as a double cardan joint rebuild, only issue w/ that is that is i forgot to mark the orientation where the front driveshaft bolts onto the the transfer case...so it's either on the right way or a 180 from how it was before, because I could see the original pattern.
2000 4x4 7.3 long bed ext cab, 159k
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When I hook my battery cable up to my battery when negative cable my truck automatically starts turning over without the key in it what could be the problem
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I have a 2008 Canadian F250 SD 5.4 triton. Its got 224000km on it and began to get the dreaded 5.4 dieseling when hot and idling. I replaced the timing chains, guides, both tensioners and crank gear. I confirmed the cam timing was correct with the crank key at 6:00 and the chains marks on the R and L. I replaced 2 coils on cyl's 2 and 3. I replaced the MAF sensor, fuel rail pressure sensor, cleaned and confirmed working the crank sensor and both cam sensors. I fixed the broken Bank 2 cam sensor wires. I changed the plugs and replaced all 4 O2 sensors.
Now the truck idles great but when driving it bucks and coughs and has zero power. I cant even get to 80km/hr. The computer now shows codes P0172 and P0174 which means the Bank 1 is rich and the bank 2 is lean. The O2 sensors are working and moving around. The back 02 sensors are both reading in the 0.8Volt range but bouncing around. The front 02 sensors are both moving from 0.1 to 0.8 constantly. The long term fuel trims are +9.5% bank 2 and -4.7% bank 1 at idle. When the throttle is off idle they become +25% bank 2 and -25% bank 1 . How is this possible and what can I do to fix this engine?.
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I have a 2008 f-250 4x4 extended cab, I picked up a set of black rock steel wheels 17x9. I now have 265 70 17s on my truck. will these wheels work and with what size tires.
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I just recently purchased a 2008 ford f350 5.4L gasser, supercab long box. The truck has 167,000km on it. I flew about 700km from my hometown to pick up the truck and drive it home. After driving about 300km I started noticing a few problems.
The engine light codes that have been stored as of now:
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0420 (Catalyst code)
P0191 (Fuel rail pressure sensor i think?)
The issue I'm having is that the truck has absolutely no power going uphill or accelerating. If I'm climbing a hill and have the gas pedal pushed in at a steady rate its almost as if the transmission wont shift, and if i push harder on the gas the truck begins to shudder. When the truck is cold it runs normal and climbs hills no problem, but once it heats up the problem returns. Another odd thing I noticed under the hood on my drive home was that they disconnected the vacuum line from the fuel rail pressure sensor and simply plugged the line on a random bolt.
Also, the truck apparently has a cam phaser lockout on it and I dont know if that could be causing the issue? Here's a list of some of the troubleshooting ive done so far.
-checked all fuses(start at the basics eh)
-checked resistance of coils(checked out fine, even after engine was warm)
-pulled spark plug 1 and 5, they both seemed fairly clean, not fowled up
-generally looked over all the vacuum lines, seemed fine couldn't see anything else really out of the ordinary
-while the truck was running I used a temperature gauge to see what the exhaust system was doing. On the drivers side when the truck was warm before the cat I had 140C and after the cat it was 80C(good indication the cat is plugged?) The other side tested fairly consistent.
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2008, 5.4 liter, F250, with 6-speed manual transmission
My truck was running fine until I decided to clean my engine. I just wanted to remove the extra dust covering it, so I used a low pressure garden hose to wash away the dirt that had accumulated last winter and spring.
It started throwing codes like Fuel Rail pressure sensors, P0191, P0192. I had no power, and I could hardly drive the truck.
I figured I had some water in some connectors, so I checked around, but could not detect any moisture.
I kept driving it, and the problem got less severe. One warm summer day, I drove my truck for about an hour trip, and everything looked fine after this. Problem never came back.
I was even noticing that it was better on gas that ever before, I was doing 11liters/100km, in city driving.
Until one day (2 months later), I had to disconnect the battery to do some servicing on my truck (more that 30 minutes), and it started to run crappy again, having some piston misfire, throwing codes P2198 and P2196, (O2 sensors). No power, if I am very gentle on the gas pedal, I can manage it, but as soon as i try to accelerate, runs like crap, black smoke coming out of the exhaust.
The problem comes and goes, sometimes, the problem stops, and I can get going, no issues. Air filter is clean, even tried with no air filter, no differences., but it really sounds like bad air/fuel mixture.
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My dads truck started misfiring last week, first thing i did was scan the codes and got p0303, p0304, p0305, p0306, and p0308. Its an 08 F-350 5.4...already changed out the spark plugs and the same codes came back. I decided to do some further testing and so far all coils had spark as well as 12.4 volts going to each. I did check the switching signal and that was present as well.
Moved on to the injectors and i checked each connector with my noid lights and it flashed on all cylinders. Did a resistance check on each injector and they all registered 12.4 ohms. We did switch some coils around and all the same cylinders misfire. My next step is to do a compression test.
My biggest question is if there are any common problems with these engines besides the coils, by the way this truck has the brown coil boots and the spark plugs that dont break in the engine.
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I have an '08 F250 w/ a 6.4. A couple days ago I started getting a loud squeaking when I turn to the right. It only does it under speed, almost like it needs the weight transfer to make the sound. In addition it's only when I turn at a like 45 deg angle, I can turn less or more to make it stop. But it has gotten louder and louder.
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Can't find my manual and getting ready to haul camper in an hour...no trailer parking lamp power on truckside plug. No blown fuse but heard there may be a relay.
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I have a 2008 f250 with 5.4v8. The truck starts intermittently. Put key in turn if no dash lights it doesn't even crank or hear a click. If u put key in and turn and dash lights up to starts and runs. U can watch the different lights (instrument cluster) light up independently like a xmas tree. When truck doesn't start if u disconnect battery when touching power wire to battery. Post truck lights will flick on/off if u tap cables to battery and leave on. Lights flicker on/off and then stay off. (Don't know why shouldn't flicker at all) after disconnecting and reconnecting battery truck will or will not start still depends on if dash lights come on before cranking.i replaced battery, starter, alternator, all the ground cable connections and wire cleaned. I haven't replaced the power side but are clean.
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I have randomly getting in my sd. It is an 08 f250 xl with a 5.4. randomly my truck chime at me, hence why I haven't been able to capture it on video. It will chime twice. The sound is a subtle bong, bong. It is never predictable and never affects anything, but is annoying and I am curious as to why it does it.
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2008 f250 standard cab long bed 2wd base model 5.4. This thing has been great for the last few years i i owned it but it developed a shake since i got new tires. My mechanic mounted 4 new Hercules Terra trac at 2's on my 18 inch wheels (275 70 18) and when i got the truck back it was shaking violently at anything over 45. Mechanic says the new tires are heavy and its affecting other things...sounds plausible. So here i am a month later with a New steering stabilizer, all new ball joints, new shocks, new u joints, and 1 new tire (he said 1 of the brand new Hercules had a broken chord). The shake is 80% gone but this truck is still not the same. Anything after 65mph and it has a feint wobbly bouncy shake. I don't think its the dreaded hop that everyone gets on these. I have 2 theories:
1. These cheap tires just suck and will never be right
2. The cheap junk Monroe shocks he put on are way too soft to do anything
so what do i do? Should i get some crazy shocks or will that make this truck even bouncier? Im worried about making it even stiffer than it already is.
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I have an 08 f250 with 6.4. when ever it rains the truck will not start. None of the gauges will work, door chime doesn't work and the only error light is the airbag light. Lights, radio, turn signals, horn all work. There is no clicking of the starter relay, the truck in dead. There is no water on the floor board nor is the floor moist. If I place a ceramic heater on the driver side floor board and blow hot air towards the firewall the truck will start in about 30 min to an hour depending on how long it sat in the rain. I've removed the air intake vents and there is no debris blocking the drains.
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I have a 2008 f250 superduty with the v10. Just today I was driving and engine picked up.slight miss it's rainy. I thought coil pack, but it left me on side of road. Got fired limped home won't go more than 40mph. Runs rough, no power, checked codes and get P0340, p0357, p1336, and P2195.. Where to start.. My daily driver and have to get back on road.
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I have a 2008 F250 crew cab lariat 4x4 with 20 inch factory wheels that the steering wheel shakes during normal driving left to right. I bought this truck with 1500 miles on it. This shaking started at 50k miles and I was thinking it was a balance issue so I got new tires a month later since mine were about worn out anyways. They were factory replacement nitto terragrapplers. Shake was still there, swapped out for another set of nittos and shake still there, swapped to BFG AT KO's and shake better, but still there. I have gone through 10 or so balances, 5 roadforce balances, 2 alignments at 4 different shops including the ford dealer through the 3 sets. My wheels are scratched to hell and back from the careless people at the tire stores from so many balances.
My truck sat at the Ford dealer for a week just the other day and they changed the steering stabilizer. I thought it was gone, but a a few days later shaking started again. It almost feels as if every little bump, rut, crack in the road the steering wheel feels and shimmies (doesn't matter the speed, gets worse and more noticeable at higher speeds). The Ford Dealer says can't duplicate, but then when I go down there and test drive with them it's "oh yeah I see that, it shouldn't be doing that". The Ford Dealer says they can't find anything loose in the front end when I tell them to check tie rods, bearings, etc.
My truck has 62k miles on it now and it's driving me to the point of thinking about trading it on a Chevy. I love my truck, but it kills me everytime I make a payment and it rides like crap. I am still under extended warranty so I need to get this fixed before it goes out. I've also noticed that if I turn my steering wheel back and forth real quick while driving like warming up for a Nascar race I can feel a bumble in the steering wheel. This is NOT the death wobble as I use to get that around the 20k mile range and it disappeared and has never been back.
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'08 F350 6.4l 4wd, I had the truck come in with a exploded transfer case. (See pics). Ive read all about this happening to many others. The truck still drove, hubs not locked, plenty of fluid in the TC, pretty sure it was the double Cardan that did it. Anyways I replaced thwith TC, replaced the front driveshaft, filled the TC with recommended fluid. Test drove and drives great, shifts fine. Only until I turned left.
At slow speeds turning hard or 15-20 taking a turn, it sounds like a ratchet clicking from somewhere on the left side, right around the drivers door, from what I can hear from the cab. Does it in 2wd, 4wd hi/low, hubs locked or not. I changed the vacuum pump, no leaks, changed the IWE solenoid, pulled out both locking mechanisms, tightened crossmember, checked everything from the hours of research I did on the internet. I cannot find the problem. I don't know what else to check. Front axles free spin and lock when they are supposed to. I'm at the end...
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I have a 2008 F-450 Lariat 6.4 4x4. I recently started noticing the front driver side wheel (best I can tell) wheel makes a noise as though it's binding uo when turning either direction, and I can feel it as well. 4wd is not activated and the hubs are in auto. When the front end is off the ground, I rotated the wheels and they spun independently unless the hubs were locked. I noticed what appear to be seals on both the driver and passenger side hanging loose (see pics). What this might be? I recently used the 4wd when we visited White Sands National Monument while pulling a 5th wheel RV.
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I have had this issue with the truck 2008 F-250 6.4L since I bought it a year ago. At first it seemed as if the truck wouldn't start whenever the water temp gauge was working while she was hot. When the gauge wasn't working she would start right up like a champ. Well a year later ( have only been driving it for 6 months) a full engine rebuild, new high pressure fuel pump ( injector pump on top the engine below the turbos) she still won't start when she is hot. What the issues are.
Right after the engine rebuild I was getting the p088 code which is for the hpfp but since I cleared the codes right after the engine was rebuilt I haven't gotten the code again. I replaced the high pressure fuel pump this last weekend hoping that it would solve all of my issues and she would be like brand new again, but it didn't do anything. When I ran codes right after I installed the high pressure fuel pump I got a few codes p0684 which is the glow plug control module p0284 ( google said) gear lever y position correct but I'm unsure if that's right.
P0528 which is the fan speed sensor circuit ( that was unplugged during the removal of the hpfp and power steering pump or the radiator) p0480 cooking fan circuit ( also unplugged ) p174e out put shaft wheel speed correlation ( not concerned about that one) p008c fuel pump control circuit p008d fuel cooler system ( taken out and unplugged using installation of new hpfp) p115a ( low fuel level forced limit power) that is from trying to start while she had a little bit of air in the system after replacement) p2291 injector control pressure to low- excessive cranking ( probably from the air in the fuel system again). I cleared all those codes once I got her up and running again. Checked for codes yesterday and the only one that came up again was the p0684. Where to check next for this hot start issues,and don't know what to do at this point.
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