I have an '08 F250 w/ a 6.4. A couple days ago I started getting a loud squeaking when I turn to the right. It only does it under speed, almost like it needs the weight transfer to make the sound. In addition it's only when I turn at a like 45 deg angle, I can turn less or more to make it stop. But it has gotten louder and louder.
View 1 Replies'08 F350 6.4l 4wd, I had the truck come in with a exploded transfer case. (See pics). Ive read all about this happening to many others. The truck still drove, hubs not locked, plenty of fluid in the TC, pretty sure it was the double Cardan that did it. Anyways I replaced thwith TC, replaced the front driveshaft, filled the TC with recommended fluid. Test drove and drives great, shifts fine. Only until I turned left.
At slow speeds turning hard or 15-20 taking a turn, it sounds like a ratchet clicking from somewhere on the left side, right around the drivers door, from what I can hear from the cab. Does it in 2wd, 4wd hi/low, hubs locked or not. I changed the vacuum pump, no leaks, changed the IWE solenoid, pulled out both locking mechanisms, tightened crossmember, checked everything from the hours of research I did on the internet. I cannot find the problem. I don't know what else to check. Front axles free spin and lock when they are supposed to. I'm at the end...
we've had a bunch of snow this week and I've been driving around with my hubs locked in. today I noticed when I was slowing down to pull into my driveway I could hear a slight squeaking sound(sounded like a squeaky belt) coming from the front.
I verified it was coming from underneath the truck behind the engine compartment so I unlocked the hubs and went for a drive, the sound was gone. I crawled underneath and turned the front driveshaft by hand and I could hear a slight rubbing sound at the back of the pinion. The bearing doesn't have any play in and there are no leaks. What is going on? Could the bearing be starting to fail or could the rubber seal around the pinion have some grit in it causing the noise?
So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
Before I climb on the ground and go over the front (there is snow on the ground and I am still like 26 days from owning my first home and having a garage FINALLY.) Very recently the truck started to make a little low pop noise and you can feel it in the steering wheel a little bit, when I turn sharply, almost to the stop by not completely and it will start. Not dumb when it comes to vehicles, but new to these trucks so always good to ask for common problems first!
View 7 RepliesI have a 2008 F-450 Lariat 6.4 4x4. I recently started noticing the front driver side wheel (best I can tell) wheel makes a noise as though it's binding uo when turning either direction, and I can feel it as well. 4wd is not activated and the hubs are in auto. When the front end is off the ground, I rotated the wheels and they spun independently unless the hubs were locked. I noticed what appear to be seals on both the driver and passenger side hanging loose (see pics). What this might be? I recently used the 4wd when we visited White Sands National Monument while pulling a 5th wheel RV.
View 9 RepliesHad some issues with truck turning off when i hit bumps threw p163a and 1639 turned out to be bad alternator. Changed issue went away but..
Battery abs and check engine light are still on... Should they clear on their own?
Ive cleared the codes through my tuner and they come right back up after a few seconds. One battery is new the other old but tests ok.
Heard there's a 30 drive cycle some sau 40 but i believe I've started and driving it that already... 2008 6.4 ....
Last couple drives I have noticed some front end noise on the left side. Back in May I also noticed grease all over behind the rotor. I believe this is the grease inserted via ABS hole into the unit bearing. I do not hear the needle bearing crunching while driving and did not here it in May either. I also attempted to move the unit-bearing up and down thinking the axle seal was toast but it seemed solid at the time.
Today I hear some noise while turning left which lead to the pictures below. Wet side is Driver side, dry side is passenger. Tomorrow morning I should have some time to take a look at this more in depth. Passenger needle bearing was changed last year and no issues since then......
I have a 2004 f250 with some front end troubles. When turning right once in a while it will make a hard CLUNK noise and then trying to drive down the street it drifts over to the left and I pull the wheel back to the right and when I turn the wheel it feels like I like theres something hitting somthing else in the front end. I have checked ball joints and tie rods and they are all nice and tight. Some stuff I have done that probably isn't related to my problem is shocks and sway bar end links. What this could be? Hopefully not the steering box!
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 f250 4x4 super duty. Just started getting a loud squealing noise off and on in the front end. Changed the ujoints and axle seals on both sides. They where all in bad shape. It still makes the noise off and on while in 2wd. If I lock the hubs in it doesn't. What it could be ?
View 14 RepliesI was driving and i was doing about 60 65 and i hit a bump and i heard a loud rattle and it shock the hell out of me then it just stop...
View 2 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
An odd noise just started recently where as I'm turning left, a popping noise happens seemingly right under my feet. I don't have a video, but I can probably try to take one later. It sounds like something is loose and when the weight shifts off of the left side of the truck, something is shifting and groaning.
I lifted the truck up yesterday and there is no play in the ball joints, wheel bearings, sway bar/end links, or tie rod ends. There is no play in the shock or in the spring, nor is there any movement in the radius arm or where the axle mounts to the body.
I should probably add some info on the truck. '00 V10 CCSB 2wd. I can't see anything out of the ordinary, and can't reproduce the sound unless the truck is in motion.
My dually has started to make a rubbing or grinding noise just about every time I make a turn, left or right. What this could be, truck has 8500 miles on it.
SD Dually
I have a 2004 PSD with 85k miles. The engine fan is all of a sudden loud. You can clearly hear the fan pushing air and it's noise is relative to the engine RPM. I've had this truck since it was brand new and have never heard the fan blades unless I had my head in the engine compartment. Is the fan supposed to turn relative to the engine RPM or is there something wrong? Either way it's now all of a sudden super loud.
View 1 Repliesuper Duty 6.2L ... Alright, the loud cam phaser or fuel injector noise/tap..Is this just a cold weather issue or is this going to be like this all the time under start up? Mine was quiet until now (1200 miles) now under cold start loud knock/tap sound. Seemed to go away when truck warmed up and was idling. Was or Is there any fix to this noise.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
View 4 RepliesI took my truck to an alignment shop to have him look over my truck to find a steering wheel jerk and a loud clunk noise. He believes it's in the transfer case driveline. Said to remove the driveline then drive it around and see if it goes away, if it does then that's the problem. So to the question, how to properly take this out? Do I need to make marks with a paint pen anywhere to line things back up or does it matter?
View 14 RepliesI drive a 2000 F250 5.4L. Currently has about 168,000 miles on it. I changed the oil the other day and cleaned the air filter. I used what I usually use on the oil change which has never been a problem. But this is first time to clean the K&N filter. A day or so later my engine is making a loud air rushing noise. Under throttle the engine compartment sounds like a wind tunnel. At 3500ish rpms it makes a harsh whistle noise. The air rushing noise doesn't go away once its warmed up or after the engine has been cool. Noise didn't go away with the filter being taken off either.
Could all of this be caused by cleaning and not using k&n air filter oil (but rather WD40 upon Dad's suggestion)? Or is there something else going on?