Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Fan Is Loud - Noise Is Related To Engine RPMs
Jun 22, 2016
I have a 2004 PSD with 85k miles. The engine fan is all of a sudden loud. You can clearly hear the fan pushing air and it's noise is relative to the engine RPM. I've had this truck since it was brand new and have never heard the fan blades unless I had my head in the engine compartment. Is the fan supposed to turn relative to the engine RPM or is there something wrong? Either way it's now all of a sudden super loud.
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I drive a 2000 F250 5.4L. Currently has about 168,000 miles on it. I changed the oil the other day and cleaned the air filter. I used what I usually use on the oil change which has never been a problem. But this is first time to clean the K&N filter. A day or so later my engine is making a loud air rushing noise. Under throttle the engine compartment sounds like a wind tunnel. At 3500ish rpms it makes a harsh whistle noise. The air rushing noise doesn't go away once its warmed up or after the engine has been cool. Noise didn't go away with the filter being taken off either.
Could all of this be caused by cleaning and not using k&n air filter oil (but rather WD40 upon Dad's suggestion)? Or is there something else going on?
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My 05 f250 5.4 has developed a whine that is easy to hear in low rpms. I don't think it goes away with higher rpms, but instead is just masked by the sound of the engine. It will do this in drive, reverse, and also when it is revved in park. What this could be?
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To make a long story short, after replacing the timing chains, guides, and tensioners, the right side cylinder head began running very loud. Think of the usual chatter associated with these engines and multiply it. It was constant, from start up to shut down, and it increased with rpm. Thought at first it may be caused by debris in the oil clogging the lifter(s). After changing the oil multiple times along with different additives and driving roughly 600 miles, the noise persisted. Taking a look down the oil filler tube with a flashlight and with the engine running, the head looked dry. Safe to say at this point I was starving the head of oil.
Removed the valve cover. Removed the rearmost camshaft cap. Sure enough, the oil passage was completely blocked. Inspected everything and there was signs of running dry (minor discoloration, dried oil spots... but no real damage and no play anywhere. Put it all back together and the truck runs quieter than the day a bought it.
Here's the camshaft cap:
This is exactly what it looked like after removal. The material blocking the passage is hard and bridle like plastic.
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I have a 1999 F250 super duty with a mean vibration at 70+ mph. It is a 5.4L manual trans manual 4x4 extended cab short box with around 250k miles on the body and 50k on the motor. It is a one piece drive shaft with the double knuckle at the t- case. it has had a vibration in the drive line since i bought i about a year ago. there is almost zero vibration at 60 mph but at around 70 the vibration starts to get really bad. The vibration is speed related because when i push in the clutch or pull it out of gear the vibration is still there. i seems to vibrate more when winding out in 3rd and 4th gear but that may just be because off the exhaust resonating or something. I have already done u-joints, balanced the drive shaft, put brand new tires on mounted and balanced, replace transfer case output bearing and both front hub assemblies. the vibration feels like it is coming from the trans or transfer case. every thing i tried made very little impact on the vibration. I'm a loss and i don't know what else to try. i know the throw out bearing an pilot bushing are bad and the clutch is well worn so ill be replacing that soon but i don't believe that is causing the vibration.
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Just changed the oil in my 6.0 and I'm sitting here looking at my tuner and is telling me my idle rpms are about 770.
Before I changed my oil it idled around 750.
It's running fine, I was just wondering why it changed? More pressure to the injectors with the newer oil?
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Long time follower, first time user. 99 F250 V10 180,000 miles: About a month ago I replaced both upstream oxygen sensors. I know have the following codes:
0135 and 0155 for Upstream Heated Oxygen Sensor Heater HTR 21 and 11
Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 and 2
1409 for Exhaust Gas Recirculation Vacuum Regulator Solenoid Circuit
I checked fuses and PCM relay and all are good. I have 12 volts to both oxygen sensors and no noticeable wire burns. One of the possible causes given on code printout for 0135/0155 is to check for a disconnected hose to the EGR. All hoses are good. One of the possible reported fixes for EGR code 1409 is to repair oxygen sensor wiring. So my question is: Are these codes related. If I replace the EGR vacuum regulator solenoid, will this clear my codes from the oxygen sensors?
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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After finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
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I have a 99 f250 4x4 super duty. Just started getting a loud squealing noise off and on in the front end. Changed the ujoints and axle seals on both sides. They where all in bad shape. It still makes the noise off and on while in 2wd. If I lock the hubs in it doesn't. What it could be ?
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I was driving and i was doing about 60 65 and i hit a bump and i heard a loud rattle and it shock the hell out of me then it just stop...
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Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
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I have an '08 F250 w/ a 6.4. A couple days ago I started getting a loud squeaking when I turn to the right. It only does it under speed, almost like it needs the weight transfer to make the sound. In addition it's only when I turn at a like 45 deg angle, I can turn less or more to make it stop. But it has gotten louder and louder.
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uper Duty 6.2L ... Alright, the loud cam phaser or fuel injector noise/tap..Is this just a cold weather issue or is this going to be like this all the time under start up? Mine was quiet until now (1200 miles) now under cold start loud knock/tap sound. Seemed to go away when truck warmed up and was idling. Was or Is there any fix to this noise.
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I had a leaking coolant crossover so had to remove that and replace it with a new one. In doing so i removed the air assembly, throttle body, fuel injectors, and Spark plug coils. I reassembled everything, no more leaks but now my GAS engine sounds like a school bus. I've lost power, going up hill is rough, once i hit 40mph my car starts to shake a little bit but when I am on a straight away it will sometimes drive normal and sometimes go back to driving slowly. it also idles rough.
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I have a 2004 Ford F250 Turbo Diesel, egr delete, headstuds, intake, dual stacks, etc and when i turn my wheel a loud whining noise comes from under the hood, I noticed it put tension in my brakes. When I accelerate it gets louder and when i let off the gas it goes away... i checked my fluid in my steering pump and it was low so i put some more in and the next day it was all sitting under neath the truck.... any quick fix or do i need to replace the whole pump?
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I have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
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I took my truck to an alignment shop to have him look over my truck to find a steering wheel jerk and a loud clunk noise. He believes it's in the transfer case driveline. Said to remove the driveline then drive it around and see if it goes away, if it does then that's the problem. So to the question, how to properly take this out? Do I need to make marks with a paint pen anywhere to line things back up or does it matter?
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Example, if I'm turning the wheel to the left with the left turn signal on there will be a LOUD click, click, click ect. sound from the column. The sound is louder than the turn signal relay and can be heard with the radio on.
Today is the third time I've brought it in to have fixed and now they tell me it is "normal". They came to the conclusion that it is "normal" because two other trucks on their lot make a noticeable clicking sound and one is just as loud as mine. However, My truck JUST STARTED making the noise a few months ago and was quiet when I originally bought it.
I know this is not a big problem ,but it is annoying and I want it fixed. Anyways, my Ford dealer had bailed out on me so how do I fix it myself?
Can you hear the column switch clicking ALOUD in your truck?
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I have a 2006 f250 lariat 192k no mods except k&n filter everything is stock. I have 2" pro comp level kit and a scan gauge 2 nothing fancy! Well the other day I noticed my truck was chirping like a Chirp chirp chirp...... Chirp chirp...... Chirp chirp chirp! It goes up and down with the rpm's but it's comes on and off only when the engine is up to running temps the belt does squeak during warm up but I don't think that's it, it's coming from the back of the engine I'm sure of it because I used a paper towel tube and listed right in the turbo hpop area on top of the engine but it's too hard to tell I can't find exactly where it's coming from, some people I've had listen think it's a belt or pulley or tensioner! But I'm not sure if it is because I've sprayed water, and wd40 on the belt and pulleys with no change!!! I'm afraid it's a lifter or something inside the engine yet it's too loud and pronounced to sound like it's coming from the inside! I'm just lost!
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I have a 2000 F250 2wd 6spd with a loud banging noise that has been vexing me for quite sometime now. The bang happens when I go over bumps (even small ones like road reflectors) while driving. I don't think it is suspension related since all the ball joints, front/rear swaybar and endlink bushings have been replaced fairly recently. All the springs and bushings also look okay.
The noise seems to come from the rear, and I notice that if I let off the gas when I go over a bump, it does not make a sound. Conversely, if I am accelerating aggressively and hit a bump, the sound is much louder. Also, if I step on the clutch while keeping my foot steady on the gas, it makes a bang. Jumping up and down in the bed while the truck is parked does not recreate the sound. I have already greased the driveshaft spline joint so I'm thinking the sound might be differential or transmission related. What it could be?
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