Gen 5.5 (2006 LE (57K miles), Rear brake drums and parking brake.
I want to get my parking brake lubricated and rear drums cleaned and adjusted. Is is difficult to lubricate the parking brake?
I plan on getting this done with a Mobile One oil change at a local garage.
My c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
View 9 RepliesBrake rear drums overheating on My LC 80 series '90 GX model has been having reoccurring left side rear overheating after driving for 2-3 hours in traffic. It has been worked on many times since the lastest attempt both sides heated to about 100-110+F on the rim with the right one the hotter. The wheel cylinders have been replaced, the brake shoes, bearings and seals on the left side in the hub with the springs, self adjuster and cable in the drum, the front disc pads also. There has been some engineering: welding on the lh rear axle diff tube which was done. The problem stressed out the last mechanic. He wants to replace the master cylinder next. Remove self-adjuster mechanisms is it a possible fix?
View 19 RepliesI have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
View 4 RepliesI am trying to remove the rear rotor of a 2007 Camry, but it appears to be stuck on the parking brake. The parking brake is not engaged, but the pads are firmly pressed against the rotor (rotor was loosen from hub assembly using bolts through the two threaded holes).
I have removed the rubber plug and attempted to turn the star adjuster, but it doesn't seem to move in either direction. Also, the adjuster should rotate away from you to tighten the brake and toward you to loosen, correct?
I have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
I have a 2010 toyota camry that needs a parking brake adjustment. the car still stops with the transmission even if the parking brake pedal is pressed down. I changes the pads in the back and it seems to be a little better, but it's not as good as other Camry's I've been in. Where to look as far as the adjustments go? and possibly how if it's not the usual method.
View 4 RepliesHad my car parked outside of work for about 12 hours yesterday, and in the NYC cold front, the parking break must have stuck on slightly. When I started to move, despite the fact I'd released the parking break, I received a warning in the MFI that said PARKING BREAK FAILURE TO RELEASE. I pulled the handle again and heard it pop just a little more off. Everything worked great after that. If I hadn't received the alert I probably would have driven off with it on. I'd probably have noticed the hesitation and checked the break again, but the alert was useful. Some of the warnings in the MFI can appear to be a pain at times, but it's amazing how thorough a job VW has done monitoring the cars systems and giving real time information if something doesn't work. You just have to make sure you don't get info overload from it all!!
View 4 RepliesI have an electrical problem with the rear brake lights on my 03 Camry. The fuse keeps blowing the instant I step on the brake. I replace it and it blows immediately. So now i can't drive it because I have no brake lights. I'm thinking there is a short somewhere, where to start my troubleshooting?
View 4 RepliesI recently put new wheels on my 2012 (more open spoke than stock ones), very soon started to notice the brake drums getting rusty. Is there anything I can do to 1) get rid of that and 2) stop it from happening? It's really killing the look of the new wheels. (The wheels themselves are spotted right now from sprinklers this morning.)
View 7 RepliesDid a complete rear brake job on a 90 Ranger including a pair of Pronto brake drums. Here are some videos of the problem.
Wheel and tire with new brake drum. Bad wobble.
Wheel and tire with brake drum - YouTube
Wheel and tire installed without brake drum. No wobble.
Wheel and tire without brake drum - YouTube
Brake drum only. Bad wobble
Brake drum - YouTube
Bare axle. No wobble.
Bare axle - YouTube
So is it safe to conclude the brake drum is bad? The other side is worse. I cleaned the axle surface so its flat. Wheels and tires are new.
I bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
I had reason to believe that my back brakes needed replacing. While I was at it, I also attempted to swap out my front rotors, but was stopped when I was unable to remove my front brake calipers. All in all, I essentially did nothing. I checked the back brake drums and put those tires back on and then took front tires off and put them back on. I woke up today to drive to work, and and after getting about a mile down the road and going about 30-35 mph I noticed my wobble. It seemed to be coming from the front, but still hard to be sure. I know my rotors are a little warped, but I usually always experience that when braking, not when just coasting or accelerating. What to check on, or what I could have done? If it makes any difference, I am driving a 2002 Ford Taurus.
View 5 RepliesThe red dash light for my parking brake stays on until I jiggle the brake handle, then it stays off until I re-start the car the next time and then it goes on again. Brake fluid is fine.
Appears to be a faulty switch attached to the handle. How do I fix this? Is it a major job? [it's a 1998 Honda Accord]
02 Camry with rear disc and drum in hat for the parking brake.
i removed the rotors when doing the pads and found the parking brake shoe to be pretty skinny. Unlike regular drum brake shoes...
Then checked some pictures in google, i appears that parking brake shoes are by design pretty thin?
I noticed the rear parking cable's one end hanging. Not sure how to connect it. Appears a part is missing.
View 7 RepliesI bought a 2006 Sonata V6 3.3L with 137k on it about a month ago. Engine and Trans is great, but I noticed an issue that developed within the past week and a half or so.
I am one to always engage the parking brake when parked, to relieve pressure on the parking paw in the transmission. After about a week of heavy use of the parking brake, I began to hear a slight 'clunk, clunk, clunk' coming from the rear passenger wheel (it actually sounded like something was loose in the trunk, but ruled it out). The 'clunk' sound at first only happened going over rough or bumpy roads, but within the past week or so it's gotten louder and more consistent. It now 'clunks' regardless of speed or road surface.
I used the parking break today for the first time while the car was in motion, and when pulled it sqreached very loud, didn't really stop the car, but the 'clunk' became very loud while the break was pulled - shockingly loud, actually.
A couple of days ago I took the rear passenger tire off while jacked up, and spun the wheel. With neither the parking or regular breaks engaged, the wheel made a 'clunk' sound very similar to that it makes on the road. Took of the Tire/Rim and spun the Rotor, to hear the same sound. Attempted to wiggle the Rotor and found no play at all.
At first, the clunk went away when you pressed the floor board brake pedal, even just a slight bit stopped the noise. Now it doesn't seem to stop it any longer.
My main idea is that the parking brake in the Rotor is the culprit, given that the issues didn't arise until I started using the parking brake - and the fact that brake appears to not work very well. However, my dad tells me he thinks it's a wheel bearing. I don't think it is - as its not making any metal on metal sounds, nor is it very difficult to rotate the Rotor while jacked up.
The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
I just had a remote start installed with a turbo timer that works off of the parking brake being engaged. No matter how hard I press it the light does not go on, however when the installer probed the sensor to ground it, it worked fine.What part this is that needs to be replaced. The stealership quoted me at 200 something for a whole parking brake assembly.
View 14 RepliesMy brother-in-law has an '04 with ~160K miles that we're potentially interested in picking up from him. It's been sitting for awhile with the parking brake on. When going to try it out today I released the parking brake (it seemed to release okay) but both rear wheels were stuck. I drove it a few feet and the left rear freed up but the right rear would not budge (multiple attempts.) It was dragging on their driveway and I could barely get the car back out of the way.
Looking for (videos, manual, etc.) how the parking brake works? Is there an external adjustment I can reach or some place to try to release the cable? We had an '06 that our daughter now drives but I've never had any issues with rear brakes in 200+K miles on that car.
I am in the process of re-assembling a 97 F-150 that was disassembled by someone else. Looking for photos or reference as to where the bracket for the parking brake should be located and how? It looks as if the bracket connects to the front leaf spring hanger, but I'd like to see a photo of it in position as well as routing of the cable around the spring and axle. I'm concerned with re-installing it and having it in a position where it will bind or get pinched.
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