I recently put new wheels on my 2012 (more open spoke than stock ones), very soon started to notice the brake drums getting rusty. Is there anything I can do to 1) get rid of that and 2) stop it from happening? It's really killing the look of the new wheels. (The wheels themselves are spotted right now from sprinklers this morning.)
View 7 RepliesMy c is about 5 12 months old now, and the rear brake drums are already covered in rust.
View 9 RepliesGen 5.5 (2006 LE (57K miles), Rear brake drums and parking brake.
I want to get my parking brake lubricated and rear drums cleaned and adjusted. Is is difficult to lubricate the parking brake?
I plan on getting this done with a Mobile One oil change at a local garage.
Brake rear drums overheating on My LC 80 series '90 GX model has been having reoccurring left side rear overheating after driving for 2-3 hours in traffic. It has been worked on many times since the lastest attempt both sides heated to about 100-110+F on the rim with the right one the hotter. The wheel cylinders have been replaced, the brake shoes, bearings and seals on the left side in the hub with the springs, self adjuster and cable in the drum, the front disc pads also. There has been some engineering: welding on the lh rear axle diff tube which was done. The problem stressed out the last mechanic. He wants to replace the master cylinder next. Remove self-adjuster mechanisms is it a possible fix?
View 19 RepliesDid a complete rear brake job on a 90 Ranger including a pair of Pronto brake drums. Here are some videos of the problem.
Wheel and tire with new brake drum. Bad wobble.
Wheel and tire with brake drum - YouTube
Wheel and tire installed without brake drum. No wobble.
Wheel and tire without brake drum - YouTube
Brake drum only. Bad wobble
Brake drum - YouTube
Bare axle. No wobble.
Bare axle - YouTube
So is it safe to conclude the brake drum is bad? The other side is worse. I cleaned the axle surface so its flat. Wheels and tires are new.
I had reason to believe that my back brakes needed replacing. While I was at it, I also attempted to swap out my front rotors, but was stopped when I was unable to remove my front brake calipers. All in all, I essentially did nothing. I checked the back brake drums and put those tires back on and then took front tires off and put them back on. I woke up today to drive to work, and and after getting about a mile down the road and going about 30-35 mph I noticed my wobble. It seemed to be coming from the front, but still hard to be sure. I know my rotors are a little warped, but I usually always experience that when braking, not when just coasting or accelerating. What to check on, or what I could have done? If it makes any difference, I am driving a 2002 Ford Taurus.
View 5 RepliesI have A 97 F-150 4X4 with rear drums. I noticed the brakes felt like they weren't releasing right away after i let of the brake pedal. i took drums off and noticed on the left rear the front shoe moved normal but the rear shoe didn't move at all. on the right side front shoe moves normal rear shoe very very slow, and i could see rear shoe was worn way more than front. So I replaced on both rear the shoes, all the hardware, springs, wheel cylinders and brake line from cylinders to the proportioning valve.bleed the brakes, and adjusted the drag on the drums. Now i drive it, test it out, feels like the same issue is going on. feels like im driving with the brake on, and right rear gets really hot. Did i miss something? not do something right?
View 4 RepliesI have never experienced what others have described as the brake delay issue, neither before nor after the ABS recall. I have even purposely driven over rough patches of road to try to duplicate.
After two days of rain, I noticed yesterday that my brake rotors were rusty. I remembered a comment from qbee42 about putting the car in neutral while braking in order to remove regenerative braking and to force friction braking to clean rusty rotors.
Yesterday I was approaching a stop light with plenty of distance and no one in front. I started braking around 45 mph with regenerative braking and then pulled the shift lever to neutral. When in neutral and with the regenerative braking removed, I felt the decrease in braking when transitioning to friction braking and I had to brake a little harder in order to have the same amount of braking as before in regenerative braking.
I can see where someone can "perceive" this as a surge forward but I only interpreted this as a decrease in braking force, as others have stated here many times.
I tried this again at the next stop light and felt the same "sensation" again and had to brake slightly harder when in neutral in order to have the same braking force. It was apparent to me that for the same brake pedal position that the friction brakes do not exert as much braking force as the same pedal position with regenerative braking.
Is this similar to what others are reporting as "brake delay" or "surge forward" issues?
It's happened the last two times I've washed the car. I thoroughly cleaned the wheels with Sonax followed by soapy water, then washed the rest of the car. After washing, my usual routine is an initial towel dry, then I take the car for a short drive to shake the excess water out of crevices & the wheels, followed by the final towel dry & detailing.
This is happening on all four wheels. I know my front rotors are nearing their end of life, but the rears should have plenty of life in them (45K miles).
Last June I took my 2001 Audi A4 off the road since I bought a more fuel efficient commuter car but I wanted to keep the Audi in the family until my oldest son started driving. That day has come and I'm making the car drivable again. I pulled the battery over the winter and kept it on a Battery Tender. I put it back in over the weekend and the car started up up and runs just fine. The only problem is that the rotors are extremely rusted and make a horrific grinding noise. Is there anything I can do to remove this rust? I assume I can just grind it off with the brake pads but that can't be good for the brakes which, if I recall correctly, are fairly new.
View 5 RepliesBrake pedal being very sensitive at low speeds (neighborhood speeds about 25 mph or lower). At higher speeds its not as sensitive but IMHO it is quite a bit touchy. So this issue started a few months ago, after the crankshaft key fell out and the timing belt/chain slipped. The engine needed to be torn apart to replace a few items internally.
After that I was visiting my parents, and I wanted to give the car a test drive to make sure that all seemed to be ok. I was pulling out of the driveway and I went to stop so that I could put the car into "D", I barely pushed down on the pedal and it went down pretty fast and the car stop suddenly, I thought it was a fluke. This took place a few months ago after they freshly gotten the vehicle back.
Fast forward to last night, my parents were up visiting and I went and took their Passat to the gas station to fill it up for them. And the pedal was still pretty darn sensitive. I'm not too savvy with this kind of trouble shooting.
I have a 2012 Passat which has brake rotors starting to pulsate. I took the brakes off today to go have them turned and I realized that the rotor will not come off until I remove the center bolt holding it on. I tried to get it off tonight and felt like I was going to break my socket and it did not budge. It is a size 23, 12-point bolt.
Here are my questions?
1. I assume that bolt needs to come out?
2. Is it a traditional threaded bolt (not reversed). Left to loosen?
3. How tight should it be? I want to try a breaker bar, but I don't want to strip it or break anything.
2012 Passat with only 6k miles. I have surface rust on center wheel hub area. Is this normal or should I paint it or is this a warranty issue?
I have it on 3 of the wheels..
I purchased a 1964 9 inch from a Galaxie 500 to use in my 51 merc M1. The drums were seized onto the axle shaft and after trying everything, I was forced to break them up with a sledge to get them off. The axles turn freely and I have removed the 4 bolts that hold the shafts to the housing flanges. The axles should slide right out but the do not. Am I missing something? How do I pull them if they don't budge?
View 1 RepliesI am having a issue with my 07 accent. Had front rotors and pads replaced because they needed to be. Clicking continued. Had drums and shoes replaced last month. Clicking went away for a few weeks. Recently started back up just the other day. The clicking is only when applying the brake and it sounds like it is coming from the right rear drum. It doesn't interfere with stopping, but it s so annoying and brakes shouldn't make that kind of noise anyway.
View 7 RepliesI took my car in about three months ago when brake indicator started squeaking in the rear. Shop told me that the drums, shoes and wheel cylinders needed replacing. After spending a few hundred replacing all those parts, the squeaking began. It's a kind of rhythmic squeak that starts towards the end of braking. the rate varies with the speed of the car, so it definitely seems to be coming from the brakes. I took it in not long after. They said they only heard a clicking noise, and that was because the brakes were mis-adjusted. They re-adjusted it. I drove it home. The squeaking is still there. This also happens a lot more when it's heated up so maybe that's why they didn't hear it in the first place.
I take the car back. They said the drum has been warped. They replace the drums. I take it home. Still squeaking a few days later, and I feel the brake pedal pulsating now. I take it back in. They say the issue is from the front brake rotors being warped. I get these replaced elsewhere with ceramic pads. Squeaking is still there.
I take it back in to the original shop because I'm certain it's from the rear. They look at it again and say the drums are warped, again, and that they'd never seen anything like it. They turn the drums. (and receipt says there will be no more warranty on the rear drums... what?)
Unsurprisingly, squeaking did not stop, not even the day after. I took it to a different shop. They spent all day on it and drove it around with me and their final word is that the reason for the squeaking is cheap parts. They recommended I call the original shop and ask for factory parts and offer to pay the difference for the parts.
My husband bought a 1997 Ford F150 and the seller said he changed the brake lines, but the back brakes have dragged on takeoff since he bought it. Just put new shoes on it and it's still doing the same thing, but now the drums are getting hot. Is it possible that the seller got the brake line backwards and that might make the back brakes drag?
View 2 RepliesI am trying to fix the rear drum brakes on my girlfriends 2010 corolla. So I replaced everything (everything is new) and i took it for a drive to find some SERIOUS rear vibration and clunking. I tried adjusting the rear pads and everything.
The clunking/vibration does not happen in reverse. I don't know what to do to fix this. I have tried the self adjusting e-brake in reverse method.
-clunking happen both when applying the brake pedal and the e brake while going forward
-clunking and low speeds and major vibrations at high speeds all while braking
The problem is I haven't seen one for a recent (2011+) SD. I don't see anything that resembles a rear drum. They look like 2 huge regular disc brakes.
I live on a hill. My old man taught me to put the trans in neutral, autos and manuals, put the ebrake on and make sure it holds the vehicle, then put the trans into park or 1st gear. This way the weight of the vehicle doesn't rest on the transmission.
How do I adjust the Ebrake? It's ALMOST holding the truck, just needs a minor tweak. I don't see the dust cover the write ups described at all. The one that reveals the Star Wheel. Are they different on these years then prior SD's?
I have a 1998 f150 4x4 4.6 triton V8 regular cab, I would like to ditch the rear drum brakes in favor of disk brakes. is this an easy bolt on project? I do know that 2003 f150's had rear disk brakes and was wondering if i bought those parts if the procedure would be fairly easy. I know i would have to take a check valve out of the master cylinder to gain pressure to the rear.
View 8 RepliesSeems to happen to just before the pedal reaches the floor, and then again just as I'm releasing it. It doesn't really have a sound per se, but it feels a bit like a rusty spring creaking....if that makes any sense.
View 17 Replies