Camry :: How Fast Can Air Filters Become Dirty
Jan 27, 2012
2008 Camry LE. It has 46,000mi on it now. I just had my 45k service done 2 weeks ago at the Toyota dealership where I purchased my car, and both the engine and cabin air filters were replaced ($$$). Today I had to revisit the dealer to deal with an annoying tire pressure warning popping up constantly, and after their performance of a 19-point inspection they told me my air filters were checked off as dirty (yellow box). They weren't trying to push new ones on me but it struck me as odd. How much dirt can actually get on brand new air filters in 2 weeks/500miles? and What criteria does someone check that off? They just visibly have some small amount of dirt on them and thats it?
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My cabin filter is getting pretty dirty. I have been looking around at the different types of filters and was wondering. Is there any advantage in replacing the normal paper pleated filter with one that is lined with charcoal? What do you think of filter that is coated with charcoal and baking soda?
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Whats the difference? which one is better? Im in the market for a cabin air filter, but I noticed there are ones that are similar to the OEM material, and then there are Charcoal cabin air filters? What is so special about a charcoal air filter?
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So i'm lowered on BC racing coilovers. never had a problem like this before. my tires went bald so i got new tires. after that when i drive on the freeway i can start feeling like my car is wiggling side to side. i thought it was cuz of my alignment or my wheels are off balanced so i did that today. i went to firestone got an alignment. then went back to where i purchased my tires (costco) and got my wheels balanced. I still feel my car "wiggling" sometimes on the freeway. it didnt wiggle my wheel but i just feel that my car is wiggling.
plus my frame has no damage. im lowered but not that low. never scraped the frame (only bumper) and never damaged the frame.
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I did my research and it turns out I need a relay switch for my blinkers. these bulbs are bright but flash too fast..
How do the relay switches work, what do i plug them into and do I need one relay switch per blinker?
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I have a 2011 Camry 4cyl with 226k miles on it, the last couple of days I have noticed a strange rattle at 2500-3500rpm from the engine area, only when the car is in gear, no rattle in N or P. I have also noticed that the engine oil and coolant have been disappearing at an alarming rate, I drove 200 miles yesterday and it went from the FULL to LOW mark, during the same drive the coolant went from mid mark between full and low to below LOW. As well, I don't notice any leaks or pink crusts around the water pump, the belts and tensioners appear to be in good working order.
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My roommate owns a 1987 Toyota Van. Those vans that have the Motor under your butt. Anyways, when we make a sharp turn (like fliiping) in either direction, we start hearing a thumping noise... It goes fast or slow depending on how fast your whipping around. We thought it was a CV joint, but, it looks like there isn't a CV Joint (Axel) Where to start to solve this?? Cause even when it goes down the highway you go into the curve and your really hear it.. The lug Nuts on the van are Tight, I've checked. We may think its a wheel barring..
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I have toyota camry 2009. I have almost no issues besides when I'm trying accelerate to getting on highway and tap on acceleration pedal sometimes it takes up to 5 sec to start accelerate:as soon your tap on pedal , it kind of thinking for 2-3 sec then goes to lower gear and only then start accelerate. Is it normal behavior for the toyota's car? I heard toyota's not really maneuverable cars or it just mine like this? I'm worry in traffic even overtake cars in traffic,otherwise can be accident.
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I have a 2007 Toyota Camry with 110,000 miles that is burning oil too fast. A farm mechanic told me I should put thicker oil in it- straight SAE 30. It is a 4 cyl, 2.4 L Automatic. I had a oil and filter change less than 2 months ago, have driven maybe 2,000 miles. The oil is below the first dot. The manufacturer says to put 5W 20 oil in. I live in central North Carolina, so below freezing temperatures aren’t an issue. Last oil and filter change, they checked for leaks and they said it was clean underneath with none. Also, is it possible the car is burning the oil fast because I live in a warmer climate and I’m using the thinner oil? Is it ok to put the thicker straight SAE 30 oil in it? If yes, can I add it to what’s already there (5w 20)?
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Just had a headlight replaced under warranty due to some peeling of the outer layer of the plastic.
Now I notice that the headlight on the other side appears to be dirty on the inside.
Not noticed unless the lights are on.
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On my 03 Camry (1MZ-FE engine) I noticed a few weeks ago that my engine wasn't coming up to temp as fast as normal. It was taking an additional 10-20min. Took it to my mechanic saying I had a potential faulty thermostat. They said they observed the thermostat opening and closing but coolant was a little low, which they topped off for me. Didn't replace anything or charge me for their services.
Now it's two weeks later and my CEL comes on. Take it to Autozone and I get codes P0128, P0420, P0430. So it would seem that my assumption was right on the faulty thermostat. But now I need to know how the other two codes are related to the thermostat. Based on what i have read, if the engine doesn't come up to temp right away, the computer will deliver more gas to the engine, thus creating a richer mixture, which in turn is not good for the catalyst system.
Could it be possible that just by replacing the thermostat (which i am going to do tomorrow) would cause the other codes to disappear? I'm thinking that I should, in this order:
- Replace thermostat
- Replace one (or both O2 sensors) (upstream or downstream first?)
- Replace converter
I've also read that you can offset the O2 sensors out of the exhaust stream to fool the engine, while still maintaining acceptable emission levels (due to Toyota having a higher than normal acceptable level).
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My 07 LE with the 2.5 has 151K on the odometer. It is an oil burner and now wants to stay on fast idle for an extended period of time. I live in the cold country so I know it will run fast at start up but it is alot longer then it used to be. It isn't working for the oil burning at all! Regarding the oil issue I tried running Pennzoil full synth and it drank it down like water! Is this a sensor problem if so which one would I look into changing.
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I put my prius back on the road about 6 weeks ago... i've had to steam clean the interior 3 times, and vacuum it....almost daily.
It's a light tan color...which doesn't work but i have other light color interior vehicles and they don't get filthy like this thing does, is this just in how it was made at toyota or??
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I just bought my prius and I don't even have a hundred miles and I noticed the center console gets dirty quick.
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Looking at buying an 05 rav4. Everything looked great until I checked the tranny fluid which was grey/pink. It was a trade so no service records but a very clean carfax. I really like the car and it shifts fine including accelerating up a hill. I'm hoping it just needs changing. I'm in need of replacing my 99 CRV with 230k and needs a new head.
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My 03 Camry LE has a weird clunk/rattle in the rear driver side only. This happens when i go over bad portion of road, not like potholes just uneven bad road. When the suspension moves quickly. Car has no weight in back. It sounds like something metal is loose in that side, the other side is tight and makes no noise. The struts were replaced in january by previous owner, someone told me it was the rear links which i replaced and still same issue, checked sway bar bushings and those are good.
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I've got a 2000 VW Lupo, essentially a small Golf, with an 1.4 motor, automatic. 40,000miles. The car's got the symptoms of a dirty mass airflow sensor but, when I removed what the manual said was the air temperature sensor all I saw was the open end of a small metal tube. No mass airflow sensor. The mechanic at the VW dealer was also perplexed as the specs for my motor (apq) says it has one. At any rate, the car suffers from sluggish performance going up even moderate hills and doesn't get the gas mileage that it should. What else could be causing this? Also, does one need to clean the air temp sensor in the same way as the MAS?
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In my 2006 Civic I intermittently get a dirty gas smell in the interior after I drive and park the car, and then come back a few minutes later and start it. Do I have a gas leak of some kind? I have not noticed a loss in mileage.
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My dad and I are having allot of trouble getting our Aerostar to start up . It is getting fuel and spark , and it won't even run with starter fluid . It was running ruff before this . It is getting an all clear on the OBD codes . We took one spark plug out and it was pretty dirty , could that be our problem? Like I said we are getting spark , when we do a spark test . We are totally out of clues .
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So i just recently purchased my 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 about a month ago. At first everything is great which it STILL is but lately I've discovered that I'm hearing a weird & SERIOUSLY IRRITATING noise/sound/rattle! Every time I drive between 10mph-40mph and it gets rapidly fast as I increase speed.. thats the RATTLE noise. I did my research and it said it can be a loose bolt or a loose heat shield underneath but I'd like some advice from Toyota Nation. Also when i make a slight turn I hear a weird clunking or some weird unexplainable noise. All in all this car is awesome .. smooth/FAST/comfy seats for me/agile/great on gas compared to my 2011 Camry 4 cylinder I had ..
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I just took delivery of a 2013 Lexus GS 350 all-wheel-drive. I have the luxury package which includes the large display screen in the center of the dash. Unfortunately the plastic cover over the navigation screen is dirty on the inside. How to remove the plastic cover on the center display?
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