Camry :: Started Shaking At Stop After Transmission Flush
Jun 2, 2014
Bought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
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Have a 2007 Sonata (2.4 L inline 4) and been plagued with rough/shaking car when initially started and pull to stop, and generally goes away when fully warmed up. Recently had oil change and service area switched me to a lower viscosity oil (5W30 to 5W20) and checked a solenoid and it was fine. Also did a fuel service treatment I suppose in an attempt to flush out stuff........I was a little surprised he didn't pursue talking about tuning up aspects but maybe none of those codes flashed......a repeating code I do have is Code 11.........though I confess when the codes refer to emission stuff I sort of ignore them.......
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Recently my Camry has been shaking when coming to a stop and shutting off. It feels similar to when a car runs out of gas. I replaced the battery less than a year ago. I don't know where to start.
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I bought an aerosol can of transmission flush to flush out the cooler lines in my Ranger before I put the "new" transmission in.
Well, the can says it has a 5/16" female fitting on the tube "to fit most common transmission cooler lines" but my truck has what I believe are 5/8" fittings (the tube nuts on the cooler lines were a 5/8" hex). The fitting on the can tube ALMOST threads over the flared end of the tube, but not quite (I just want it on there so stuff won't spray all over).
Went to the parts store, found an 5/8" female flare to 1/2" male flare and that was the closest I could find. I'll take it home tonight and see if it fits. They had almost nothing for a 5/16" flare.
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I disconnected the battery yesterday and once I connected it back the car felt like it was gonna turn off and ever since when I'm in a stop it starts shaking. Is their anyway to fix the idle time ....
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I've had this problem with my 08 v6 camry se recently: when i first start my car and stop at a stop light my transmission will seem to disengage or not switch gears properly resulting in me redlining and not being able to accelerate properly. shortly after everything returns back to normal and the problem goes away on its own never to return until i begin the process all over again.
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I have 2001 ford taurus the transmission went out on me -as i started from stop light the transmission sounded like it was going into gear all the way I let off the gas and it went into gear this happened a few more times until i got on interstate and when i interstate no problems at all with transmission then I pulled off to go home and mre stop lights it acted same way then after a few more lights i gave it the gas from stop light and no forward gears i do have reverse is a sensor bad ...
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When I accelerate lightly and when the Eco light is on, u can feel a shaking or jerking in the gas pedal? But when I accelerate harder it stops. It seems to happen under light acceleration through most of the gears?
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In the last 8 months I'm having a shaking of the car when starting in first gear (manual trans).
I thought it was a loose engine mount - had it checked and one replaced and still the shaking is there.
I notice it is more pronounced when the engine is hot and starting on a decline.
Since I've had this Camry (almost 8 yrs), I've had the clutch changed 2x. First time was just wear and tear. The person who replaced it put the fly wheel on backwards! Drove it for 3 years until it just broke. Replaced by another shop who couldn't believe I got three years out of the bad job.
At any rate, this doesn't feel like a clutch-related issue. No slippage feeling or other issues when moving through the gears at higher speeds. But maybe they did a bad job too?
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i have a 2010 Prius IV with 56810 miles, should i do a transmission flush ? and how many qt go back into the unit ?
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My 2006 has 108,000 miles. An independent shop said one can not flush the transmission as you can not put torque on the wheels. A dealer says they have a machine to do it. Who is right? Can one flush and fill the transmission?
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Looking for any good videos of flushing the transmission out of an 1997 F150. I'm having a hard time locating the input and output lines to the radiator. I don't know which it is top or bottom one...
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My 02 camry recently started dying at a stop and would not idle above 1000 rpm. I cleaned the throttle body(very dirty) and the car started right up idling at about 1500-2000 rpm i walked away for a minute and came by to drive it and no acceleration would come as well as when i start it up now it just goes back to idle at about 500 rpm.
I am not sure what the problem may be, my air filter box is not on properly I am going back to the car to tighten it down today but i highly doubt it will fix anything. I also read something about the computer needing reset, if i go and unhook the batter for 30 min and hook it back up will the computer reset and possibly fix my acceleration problem?
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I have a 2002 Kia Rio Cinco, (named Simple Jack) with about 150k miles on it, that I have been bringing back from the dead. I've replaced the shocks and struts, brakes, wheel hubs, wheel bearings, part of the brake line, the timing belt, motor mounts, fan, valve cover gasket (needs to be redone because my mechanic got sloppy), spark plugs & wires, windshield and wipers, and the radio. I sound proofed the interior, pulled the seats and carpet out and power washed them. I am also doing some body work on it. Normally, I am pretty good at troubleshooting the problems, but not-so-much doing the actual repairs. I tend to panic, and get paralyzed by the fear that I will break my car worse than it is.
The first was about doing a transmission fluid flush. I got the filter and the transmission fluid and while my ex-mechanic was breaking my car the last time, I asked if he could do the flush. He said he would not do it because the transmission was too old and it would break the transmission if he did it. Since the fluid looked dirty and probably had not been changed for a while, his logic was that the parts had a layer of dirt on them that would be flushed away with the fluid change. This would interfere in the operation of the transmission because the parts would no longer be able to make contact with each other.
At the time, this made sense to me. However, after some less than stellar repair attempts, I have some doubts as to the validity of his claim. So I am asking you all if this makes sense.
The second question is a problem with rattling. I had purchased the tie rod ends, front stabilizer and bushings for the suspension. I asked my mechanic to change all the parts when he did the front shocks and again I asked when he did the front wheel hubs. He said that I didn't need the crap. So my car has a weird rattling when I drive. It sounds like it comes from the top of the engine, but at speeds around 60mph, I have some vibration in the steering, too. I am concerned that something may be wrong with the steering or maybe it's just the alignment. However, I think the rattling may be independent from the vibration. I have not been able to determine the cause of this and my plan was to just keep replacing parts until it is fixed. I figured I will have a new car by the time I am done. What I can check next? Should I do the tie rod ends? The bushings? The CV joints? I know I need a new mechanic.
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My '98 4.0 has 213k on it and the other day I started the engine and the jeep started shaking like crazy. Eventually the engine quit and refused to turn over so I looked under the hood and quickly discovered the problem, a deteriorated rubber elbow on the left manifold. The elbow connects to a threaded breather type valve in the manifold and has a thin piece of black plastic routing to the purge solenoid next to the left fender/air box.
When I removed the rubber elbow from the manifold the engine eventually turned over and idled fine, I then headed to autozone and found replacements of the same diameter, I cut them down a bit to match the length of the originals. Since its been a while I changed the plugs and wires, coil pack along with cap and rotor while I was at it. I replaced one plug and wire at a time to ensure I didn't mix things up, same goes for the cap. Now the jeep seems to take a few more seconds to get started but once it does it idles fine.
Now when I hit the gas hard the jeep will hesitate and then backfire. If I'm smooth on the gas the jeep drives good, whether city or highway. When coming to a stop the jeep will sometimes buck slightly like it wants to cut but doesn't. The backfire sounds like its coming from the air box and oddly enough, my aftermarket radio no longer plays in the accessory position, probably a separate issue. So far there's been no check engine light.
I really need to keep this jeep for a few more months and I would hate to put big money into at this stage.
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Have an unfortunate circumstance. '03 Camry XLE 4cyl with 188k on it and the trans just went crazy. Was on the interstate and it started downshifting. Wouldn't stay up in the gear it was before and eventually wouldn't go out of 1st or 2nd gear.
Haven't had shifting issues in the past and trans fluid has been changed regularly at no more than 30k mile intervals.
Worst part is that this was on the way to vacation, so the car was towed to Ft. Walton Toyota. They are saying the trans is slipping and it needs a rebuild. Seems very odd to me that the issue would come on this fast with no earlier signs. A valve cover gasket was replaced a couple weeks ago, but I don't see how that could be the cause.
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I have Toyota camry 2003 v6 and power steering needs to be flushed. How to flush the power steering.
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Here is the thing, this did not start until after I got a coolant flush, and went to get some gas. I was thinking dirty fuel injectors, so I put the Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner in with the next full tank of gas, and it didn't do anything.
There is a ticking sound, and the car sounds like a freight train chugging. The car still runs and still has great performance than ever before (due to the new plugs)
Here is what I have done:
Ran motor flush
Changed oil + Lucas Oil Additive
Changed all 4 Spark Plugs (replaced crappy Autolite with NGK Platinum)
Changed Power Steering Fluid (flushed)
Changed Coolant (flushed)
Cleaned the throttle body and intake
Drained through and filled up gas again + Lucas Fuel Stuff
You can't really hear it from inside the car, and it only seems to be happening after the car has been warmed up. It does not happen during a cold start at all (in the mornings).
The ticking sound stopped for a bit when I ran the motor flush, and changed the oil. Now the sound is still there, but it is A LOT less annoying than before. The car also has A LOT better performance with the new plugs, I seem to be able to take off a lot better at lights.
Here is what I still need to do:
Change the engine air filter.
Double check the throttle body and intake.
It is a 2004 Camry with 182,000 Miles. The ticking didn't start until after it came back from the shop, which has me suspicious. Shop claims nothing is wrong, which is a load of BS.
What I am thinking:
Stuck valve
Lifters
STILL dirty intake (shop could have done nothing and charged me for it)
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I bought a 2002 camry last month. It has 180k on it, and the previous owner says he never had the trans fluid changed.
It started to slip, so I parked it and I had it towed to a trans shop. Of course, they immediately say I need a trans rebuild.
My house was close, so I drove it home without any issues.
What are the chances that a fluid change will correct this for a little while atleast?
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I have a 2002 Camry i4 with 158k miles. The transmission on it suddenly started slipping one day last week. My wife drove it in the morning and came back to say it was slipping and lurching a bit. I drove it in the afternoon around the block a few times to check it out, all normal. In the evening, wife took it out again and it dies 3 miles out. When I showed up, I was able to get it crawling at 5-10mph, but the engine was at near redline. So definitely slipping. Got it towed back home. The next morning, I back it out of the driveway and then up the driveway again just to see, and it seems fine.
This leads me to believe the issues is only when the transmission is warm. Transmission fluid is at a normal level. Dark red and smells bad, so due for a change. Is it too late to save the transmission?
Over the weekend, I drained and filled the transmission fluid with new T-IV (not a complete flush) to see. Drove it around the block a few times and no slipping, but I can hear a faint hum/whine, similar to when in reverse gear but softer. I can't say for sure if anything improved, I would have to drive it til warm to reproduce last week's conditions. I was too nervous that it'll die completely again and I'd have to push it home. The hum was enough for me to say, yes something is still wrong.
I called local mechanics to get quotes and advice. The ones that work on transmissions say a rebuild is required at a cost of $2000. Others say replace the transmission with used (new would be too expensive). Waiting for quotes on that. One guy suggested that the transmission computer would've failed to cause transmission to fail, so rebuild of both the computer and transmission is necessary. Does that make sense? Seems questionable to me.
What indication is it that the transmission would only slip when warm? Is rebuild or new transmission really my only option?
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I have a 2002 camry and I flushed my power steering fluid today using the following procedure:
- emptied the reservoir
- connected return hose to a bucket
- added new fluid (ATF dexron III - from toyota dealer)
- jacked front wheels
- turned steering wheel side to side till new fluid came out of return line (my reservoir did get empty couple times in the process so air may have went in)
- lowered the vehicle
- reconnected the return line to reservoir
- ran the engine and turned side to side couple times (did not see bubbling and fluid level did not drop)
I took the car for test drive and noticed that my steering wheel was still making noise when turning. Also, when i was turning the wheel side to side with hood open, I noticed a change in the sound. There was a sticking sensation and steam pressure release noise when I locked the wheel on either side.What could be the problem?
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