Looking for any good videos of flushing the transmission out of an 1997 F150. I'm having a hard time locating the input and output lines to the radiator. I don't know which it is top or bottom one...
View 11 RepliesI bought an aerosol can of transmission flush to flush out the cooler lines in my Ranger before I put the "new" transmission in.
Well, the can says it has a 5/16" female fitting on the tube "to fit most common transmission cooler lines" but my truck has what I believe are 5/8" fittings (the tube nuts on the cooler lines were a 5/8" hex). The fitting on the can tube ALMOST threads over the flared end of the tube, but not quite (I just want it on there so stuff won't spray all over).
Went to the parts store, found an 5/8" female flare to 1/2" male flare and that was the closest I could find. I'll take it home tonight and see if it fits. They had almost nothing for a 5/16" flare.
i have a 2010 Prius IV with 56810 miles, should i do a transmission flush ? and how many qt go back into the unit ?
View 15 RepliesMy 2006 has 108,000 miles. An independent shop said one can not flush the transmission as you can not put torque on the wheels. A dealer says they have a machine to do it. Who is right? Can one flush and fill the transmission?
View 9 RepliesBought the Camry new in May 2006. Besides the oil hose leak (which a recall fixed), it's been a perfect car.
Fast forward to the present. I needed a brake job, so my master mechanic buddy installed front and rear powerslot rotors and akebono performance pads and flushed my brake fluid. No problems with the brakes.
A few weeks later I wanted to treat my car to a 90K full transmission flush (it's first transmission service). I had it flushed at a local toyota independent shop. They used WS fluid. A few hours later, my transmission which shifted perfectly fine before the flush started shifting weird. I thought the computer had to relearn my wife's driving style. When she brakes hard (if she's going 50 and the light turns yellow and she brakes hard, her car slows down normal, but right before it comes to a complete stop is when the car shakes. She said it started right after the transmission flush.
A few days later when she was at a red light, the car check engine lit up with a check battery (she thinks that's what it said on the screen). When the light turned green, it wouldn't accelerate, but it would roll forward when you let go of the brakes. When she got to a safe place to park/stop she turned off the car. A few minutes later she turned the car back on and it was fine.
I told that to one of my buddies who had something similar happen to him in his 06 Mustang GT, the Ford dealer cleaned his throttle bottle and maf sensor and he was on his way. I had my throttle body and maf cleaned. Now with new brakes, new brake fluid, a flushed transmission, a clean throttle body and maf, I thought everything was good.
On the freeway , the car would not shift to 4th gear or higher. So I exited the freeway, drove the surface streets to a independent Toyota shop. Left the car there all day, they could not find anything wrong. So, right now everything is back to normal except the shaking when you are almost at a complete stop, which started AFTER the transmission flush, what that might be?
To describe the shaking problem, imagine I'm driving 45-50, light turns yellow, I slow down, 50-20 is fine, maybe even 50-15 is fine, but the car shakes right before it fully stops.
My 02 Explorer with the 4.6 has about 100k on her and I think it is time to change the coolant. ( I have only had it since 87k )
Should I flush it or just change it. What is the best way ?
I have a 2002 Kia Rio Cinco, (named Simple Jack) with about 150k miles on it, that I have been bringing back from the dead. I've replaced the shocks and struts, brakes, wheel hubs, wheel bearings, part of the brake line, the timing belt, motor mounts, fan, valve cover gasket (needs to be redone because my mechanic got sloppy), spark plugs & wires, windshield and wipers, and the radio. I sound proofed the interior, pulled the seats and carpet out and power washed them. I am also doing some body work on it. Normally, I am pretty good at troubleshooting the problems, but not-so-much doing the actual repairs. I tend to panic, and get paralyzed by the fear that I will break my car worse than it is.
The first was about doing a transmission fluid flush. I got the filter and the transmission fluid and while my ex-mechanic was breaking my car the last time, I asked if he could do the flush. He said he would not do it because the transmission was too old and it would break the transmission if he did it. Since the fluid looked dirty and probably had not been changed for a while, his logic was that the parts had a layer of dirt on them that would be flushed away with the fluid change. This would interfere in the operation of the transmission because the parts would no longer be able to make contact with each other.
At the time, this made sense to me. However, after some less than stellar repair attempts, I have some doubts as to the validity of his claim. So I am asking you all if this makes sense.
The second question is a problem with rattling. I had purchased the tie rod ends, front stabilizer and bushings for the suspension. I asked my mechanic to change all the parts when he did the front shocks and again I asked when he did the front wheel hubs. He said that I didn't need the crap. So my car has a weird rattling when I drive. It sounds like it comes from the top of the engine, but at speeds around 60mph, I have some vibration in the steering, too. I am concerned that something may be wrong with the steering or maybe it's just the alignment. However, I think the rattling may be independent from the vibration. I have not been able to determine the cause of this and my plan was to just keep replacing parts until it is fixed. I figured I will have a new car by the time I am done. What I can check next? Should I do the tie rod ends? The bushings? The CV joints? I know I need a new mechanic.
So a dead thermostat forced me to drain the coolant in my E350 7.3L. I noticed the previous owner had green coolant in the van so I decided to do a flush and put in the right coolant. I used Shell Rotella ELC. Well, I noticed after coming home the other day that the van was leaking coolant, upon inspection I noticed its now leaking from the water pump, then today the drain valve sprang a leak! What the HECK is going on!? Is it possible that the seals were shocked when I changed the coolant? Not looking forward to doing a water pump replacement on an E350... sure is crammed under the hood.
View 9 RepliesI have a 1997 Ford F150 4x4. I only have reverse gear, when you put into drive you have to rev up truck and then it will kick into gear & as long as you keep a little pressure on throttle it will stay in gear & shift fine if you let up on throttle it seems to go back into neutral & you have to start the the process all over. What is my problem? I have changed fluid & filter.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 F150 XLT V6 Speed Manual stickshift. My problem is the transmission will not go into any gears, it is in neutral.
View 1 RepliesTransmission lost 3rd and 4th gears so I pulled it and found the direct drum burnt up, got new drum and changed all seals, clutches, steel plates, aftermarket cooler and put a sure cure kit in it.
Truck drove great until it blew the front seal out 250 miles later, took it to a shop since I was away from home and he said the clutches got hot so he completely rebuilt it. Truck made it 150 miles and lost 3rd and 4th again. He replaced all the solenoids also.
Transmission shop rebuilt it again and it made it 80 miles and now it will not move at all. We replaced the neutral switch, shift cable, and shifter handle on the last rebuild because he thought it was hanging between neutral and drive.
What else could be making this transmission keep going out? Could it be a bad case, bad valve body or what? We are at a total loss on what keeps burning it up.
I have Toyota camry 2003 v6 and power steering needs to be flushed. How to flush the power steering.
View 7 RepliesSo I was given a 1999 f150 4.6. The transmission was supposedly either new or rebuilt. (I'm going with rebuilt) Driving it for the first time today, I noticed it had very little poor acceleration. When I would get on the gas (to the floor) the rpms would shoot up (3-3.5) but the truck didn't accelerate accordingly. It feels like the power it's getting to the wheels. Driving at highway speed trying to maintain a speed at over 70 the truck wanted to stay at 2500 rpms but if I let off the gas just a touch it would shift up (into overdrive I think) and level out at just below 2000 rpms, but if I accelerated even just barely, it would down shift and go back to 2500. I've also noticed the truck runs 5 mph faster than it reads with stock sized tires. I've check the tans fluid and it is bright red in color and at the appropriate level. I crawled under the truck and noticed the trasfer case mount was wet with fluid (not dripping) and the rear output shaft of the transfer case was also wet. Could this be a transfer case problem?
View 13 RepliesWoke up this morning and was going to work. Went to unlock my truck and noticed the lights didn't come on inside when I used the remote door unlock. Then I started truck and the tranny lever on the steering column wouldn't go into gear plus the sterring wheel will not lock when the truck is off!
View 1 RepliesMy friend has a 2000 f-150 2x2 and was following him and he said he heard something pop and then no transmission , haven't put a code reader on it yet. It's not the flex plate starer works fine fluid is a little discolored and has no bad burned smell to it.
View 1 RepliesMy truck is an XL V8. Transmission is Manual 5-Speed Mazda M5OD-R2.
I bought this truck literally two days ago. It seemed a little hard to shift, but no other problems. The truck had been sitting a short while, the guy said he took it on local trips, but nothing more. I noticed the oil and coolant levels were crazy low, so maybe it had been sitting longer or the guy was neglectful, I'm not sure...
I was driving it home and it seems like what can be described as: the gear ratio went completely out.
For example, 4th gear acted like 1st gear, 5th gear like somewhere between 1st and 2nd gear, so when I'm at 20mph, in 5th gear, the rpms are really high like im going 20mph in first gear (not 5th).
Today none of the gears engage at all... I dropped off a trailer at uhaul, and I got stuck there! (The truck is still there, I walked 4 miles home)
The shifter works fine, all gears sound like neutral (including reverse) when accelerator is pressed. Car won't move at all, nothing is engaging.
Underneath the car, there is a leak from the transmission assembly, maybe around the fill plug? It's only a small puddle. Maybe fluid, shift forks, bushes? or all?
I have a 2002 f150 lariat super crew 4x2 with a 5.4L engine with 145,000 miles. My tranny is shot, and i was told it happened because the tranny cooler went bad. A few people have told me it sounds strange that the cooler went bad on its own. The truck is still at the shop that diagnosed it and i cant seem to figure out if it has the 4R70w or the 4r100 tranny in it. Is this something that's standard or something i will have to look at on the truck itself to figure out.
View 11 RepliesTranny just started slipping a couple of weeks ago, only occasionally. Seems to be between 2nd and 3rd. any chance a fluid change will work? I don't have have the money right now for a new or rebuilt and I am far from mechanically inclined to do the work myself. 2000 F150 62K org Miles....
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 ford f150 v6 no 4x4 has wont shift from 2nd to 3rd, shifts fine from 1st to 2nd, after that tho there's nothing. What to do or what it could b?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 f150 2wd 4.2l engine. With 135,000 miles I just replaced the battery about 300 miles ago and I usually tow a trailer almost always. Also I replaced the Plugs and Plug wires about 15,000 miles ago When I am towing I turn the OD off. Now the problem. I noticed that when I am not towing now that when approaching highway speeds it seems to shift back and forth from overdrive while accelerating only.
But when pulling a trailer with OD off it shifts fine. No engine codes appear. I am due to service the transmission fluid I think I have about 35,000 on the fluid now but before I do I just want to pass this that while I have the pan out. Is there anything else I should check or could this just be a issue with dirty fluid Or Possibly the drivetrain controller because I hardly ever drive without towing..
Recently, my truck has started rolling back from a stop when accelerating. There seems to be a hesitation between when I depress the throttle and the transmission engaging. It doesn't clunk, just delays. Been doing it for a few weeks, but is now getting worse. Today, the symptoms are similar but more pronounced. When driving there doesn't seem to be an issue, just moving out from a stop.
Checked the fluid idling in park, level was good, fluid looks great, was changed by a shop 6 months ago. Is my 319,000km trans on its way out?