Camry :: Passenger Window Is Making Grinding Sound When Going Down?
Oct 26, 2011
The passenger window is making a grinding sound when going down. Sound starts after the window is about 50% down. There is no sound when the window goes up. From what I have been reading, it could be a motor going bad. There is no damage to the glass.
Does this sound like the motor will fail? I have a 100K extended warranty on the car which is soon going to run out. The warranty states that it covers the part but only in failure. Does this count as failure? Seems to be a bit of a gray area since the part is failing but the it is still funtional...
Will be taking the car to Toyota but wanted to get hear some thoughts before I did that.
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This just started on me not even an hour ago. I hit my switch and the window will go down all the way and the motor will continue running making a grinding noise until I hit the switch again. Same as when it goes up all the way. It stops at halfway and makes the grinding noise until I release and press the switch up again. Is this just the motor teeth going bad or are the cables getting frayed out possibly? Haven't had time to tear down and inspect yet.
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I have a 2011 Camry LE with American Racing aftermarket wheels. I had the car serviced last Saturday for its 70,000 mile check. When I got in the car to drive home, I felt that somehow the car was making a different sound and did not "feel" right. I did not drive the car for a few days, but when I did the left front wheel was making a grinding sound, checked underneath, for any kind of debris I might have picked up. Nothing. I took it back to the dealer. They put the front wheel on the back and the noise and vibration were gone. They said it was a defective hub on the rim. Then tonight, coming home from work, the right side was making the same sound or worse. I pulled into a tire service center, had them do the same to that side, and the sound and vibration stopped. A friend thought it might be the weights have moved and due to the tighter spacing on the front wheels they are hitting the calipers as the wheel moves.
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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I have a 2005 Camry XLE. Since past few months I have started hearing a strange grinding / thumping noise from the front passenger side wheel. It can be clearly heard at slow speed and almost sounds like the wheel is lopsided and is rubbing against something. As the car picks up speed, the frequency picks up and the sounds disappears eventually.
So, I figured it must have been because the car had hit a curb few months ago and must have bent the rim. I had the wheels looked at while getting rotation and balancing done and was told that there is no rim damage. The sound went down a little after rotating the wheels but is still there. The mechanic doesn't think that it is the bearing because the sound disappears after moderate speeds. So, trying to figure out what could be causing the noise?
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At 75K my passenger side rear brakes were making metal on metal sound. I was really surprised as I have always learned that the front brakes take 80% of load and they always go out before the backs. So I took the wheel off and sure enough the pads were metal on metal. Changed everything out. (new rotors). I then went over to the driver side rear brake. Looks brand new. The pistons were barely out. I figured this caliper is bad. (I haven't change yet)
When I drive I can hear a very faint metal on metal sound when I brake. VERY FAINT. So with 75K miles on I figure the front brakes are due. Today I took the wheels off and inspected them. Tons of pad left on both of them. If I didn't know better I would say a brake job had been done very recently. (I've owned the car new so I know they have not had a brake job) However after reading many articles on this site I found a thread where one user said he was changing his front brakes for the first time with 110K on them and the pads still had 10K left in them. So the fact that my front pads are still pristine at 75K may not be a big deal (or not as big as I thought. Also I am not hard on brakes.)
However I'm not sure what is going on. Why would the passenger rear brake be metal on metal at 75K and the three other pads are like new. Is the passenger rear the only one working (or working much harder than the others) meaning the other three are bad? Or is the rear passenger bad and the other three are good? I have a working knowledge of cars but I am by no means a mechanic.
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Picked up some rain guards for the front windows, driver side works fine but the passenger side is making the window get stuck ...
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My car has been making this sound for such a long time i didnt notice it until my dad asked the dealer about it and they said 'they didnt hear it' i can get an audio clip if you think it' work. most regular steering around curves, just tight slow turning like into or out of a parking spot. it sounds like its right in the column...
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I have a 1997 F150 (truck in signature). In December my passenger side parking brake cable broke so I replaced both rear cables (front cable appears in good condition).
This past Friday the passenger side brake started making a grinding noise so I pulled the drum to find the self adjuster cable broken and the ratchet jammed between the shoe and the drum. I pulled everything apart and put new shoes (the pin the ratchet pivots on was broken off the rear shoe)and all new adjusting hardware (adjuster screw, ratchet, cable, and cable guide). The rest of the hardware looks in good condition (still paint on the springs and retainers). I got everything put together and took it for a test drive, it had a nice firm brake pedal (it's been a while since this truck has had a firm pedal) and great stopping power.
Took it to work today, and on the way back I stopped to pickup a package from the UPS store. I set the parking brake and put the truck in 1st like I always do. When I got back out to the truck to drive home, I released the parking brake but there was still obvious drag as I drove home (no good place to stop during rush hour), got out of the truck and it reeks of burning brakes. I pulled the driver side drum off (after it cooled), which was rather difficult, and everything looks to be in order except the rear shoe was not touching the post at the top of the backing plate. I checked and the adjuster was still all the way in, so that isn't the issue.
I pulled the parking brake cable out to slack the drum side of it (with the pedal released there is some spring tension from the pedal mechanism) and clamped it with vice grips so the cable was slacked and the shoes were then touching the post, and the drum could be installed and turned relatively easily, I then removed the vice grips and let the spring pull the tension out of the cable and the brake held firmly (requiring considerable effort to turn the drum). Is there anyway to adjust the spring tension on the parking brake cable when the parking brake is released?
Additional notes: when setting the parking brake, the pedal will only go down an inch or 2 before the brakes are locked up tight and the pedal won't move, it used to go down several inches before. also I noticed that the feral on the end of the drivers side cable (that locks into the lever attached to the rear shoe) is deformed, like the cable has too much tension on it. The cables are the correct ones for my wheel base according to Autozone but I'm starting to wonder if they are too short. Spring tension on the parking brake cable (when the brake is not set) causes the parking brake to drag. How do I get the parking brake to stop dragging? ("star" adjusters are new and adjusted all the way in).
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My 2015 Gs 350 F sport started making grinding noise from the front passanger side wheel. The noise comes from driving and not braking so im assuming its not the brake pads and its not squeaking noises as a worn out brake will sound.
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I have fairly new brakes on my 97 Chevy Tahoe with 202,000+ miles. For the last several months when I come to a stop, sometimes the brakes make a grinding sound (or 'boy-yoi-yong' sound- it's hard to tell) and the brake pedal feels like it 'slips' although the brakes do always stop the car. The brake don't always do this but it happens at least once or twice a day. Sometimes the problems is very mild, other times it's very noticeable. have it checked by two mechanics and they can't get the brakes to misbehave so they can't find the problem. All they did was flush the brake fluid twice and tell me it MIGHT be the master cylinder or the ABS system. My husband got laid off from his job and I am disabled. We can't afford to start fixing everything the mechanics THINK might be wrong with the brakes.
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I have a 2015 Sonata 2.0t limited with 12k miles. Just few weeks back I started hearing a noise when I would step on the accelerator after a full stop, when the auto hold feature was turned on.
With the auto hold feature off and my foot on the brake, I don't hear that sound when I release the brake. It only happens when the car is stopped and the auto hold is on and i step on the accelerator.
I took it to the dealer and he is saying the brake calipers need to be cleaned up. I'm not convinced it's the brake because I don't hear the sounds when I don't use the auto hold. What can I do to fix this?
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Its a 2006 Toyota Camry 2.4l.. its been sitting for about 4 weeks now which has given me and her some personal time...I cant get it to run without me covering the intake hole. Last night my girlfriend and I were tinkering with it... before I sprayed carb cleaner and sealed the hole off with my hand she pressed the gas and I heard a grinding noise. So I told her to pump the gas with the ignition on and the gas peddles and the grinding noise was synchronized in timing. I turn the ignition off and press gas nothing... I'm guessing that's because its a fuel injected vehicle and everything is electronic (ECM) also I noticed when you cycle key from on to off it makes that noise also... won't start and I need my car.
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When I am driving, regardless of the speed at which I am traveling or the weather conditions, etc. The car arbitrarily surges, making a sort of grinding sound. I have to quickly tap the accelerator to stop it...a real problem if traveling in rush hour traffic, for example, so as not to run into the car in front of me. I have mentioned this to the folks who service my car but, naturally, it never does it in the shop.
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I have a 2003 Ford F150 with a 5.4V8 Triton 4X4. The truck is about to roll over 200K here soon. I am feeling/hearing a vibration/grinding sound coming from the truck when I am moving slowly and making turns, either left or right turns. Seems to happen more so on left hand turns. I have changed all power train fluids and filter, and still does it. I do not feel or notice the vibration/grinding when I am going straight or at highway speeds. It is only when I am moving from a stop and making turns. How to diagnose, find out, repair, fix this issue?
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I drove and opened the windows. I came to a stop and tried to close the windows but passenger window wont go up. the lights radio speedometer and everything work but windows still wont go up. i tried the switch on the passenger door also. no luck.
I accidentally pressed the window lock.
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I just started to have a problem with the passenger side window on my 2004 Solara coupe. When closing the window it has started going up too far and then the door will not close. It gets very little use so it seems like worn parts may be unlikely.
If I lower the window slightly I can see that the window appears to be adjusted properly front to back based on how it fits in the weather striping, it just started going up too high. When lowered slightly the door and window work fine.
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I have a 99 Camry le 4door car. I recently bought a new motor and regulator. Reason being is the old one quit working one day. It rolled up just a little at a time then stopped before it closed completely. So I plugged the new assembly in to the harness and nothing. All other windows have power coming from the driver side cluster, door locks work fine as well. Passenger front window will do nothing from either switch.
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Planning to take the 14.5 Camry in later next week. I've noticed the passenger window goes up/down considerably slower than the other 3. I know it's not specific to the passenger window, but have you guys experienced any given window quite slower than the rest? I don't think it's wear and tear since I have no passengers 85% of the time. Wonder if warranty still covers it within 2 years..
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Ok on my 07 camry se, my right front passenger window rattles when in the up position. I noticed after the car has been sitting for awhile, that it's quiet but when I decide to open the window and then close it it starts to rattle. Now this happens when driving over bumps or have the music turned up.
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I have some trouble with some rubber lining coming off my car, I'd like to re-attach it but don't know what kind of adhesive to use that is weatherproof and long lasting.
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