Caravan/Voyager :: 2006 / 3.8 Just Stalled At A Set Of Lights
Aug 4, 2014
I have a 2006 Grand Caravan 3.8 that just stalled at a set of lights yesterday and have had it towed back to the shop here. I turns over and starts briefly then will die and then just turn over strongly. I cleaned the throttle body and IAC but this did not work. I connected fuel pressure tester and have no pressure when turn key on or turn it over.
The fuse and relay check out ok, so I'm thinking bad or clogged fuel pump.
I have a 2004 Caravan out back that I have used for other small parts to interchange before and was wondering whether or not the fuel pumps between these two are compatible. Be a lot of work to pull the one off the one in the yard, only to find out its not going to fit.
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Just changed the battery on a '98 Grand Caravan 3.3. In the process of tightening the positive terminal I accidentally touched the wrench to the negative. There was a spark, of course, but otherwise no biggie. However, now the HVAC indicator lights, including the rear wiper, defroster, etc. indicator lights, all blink continuously until about 15 minutes of driving, then they return to normal. I disconnected the battery thinking that I needed to clear the PCM but the blinking always returns. Is this some sort of manual code reading deal? If so there's no mention of it in the Haynes manual.
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Dodge Grand Caravan 2000 3.0L
First, sometimes the engine began shuts off. When the drive up to the traffic lights. When sharply throw gas pedal. When the engine speed is less than 2000. If you release the gas pedal, you will see that the tachometer needle drops below 500 rpm and the engine stalls. This happened happened two or three days all right. And sometimes a day, 3-4 times shuts off. Then ringing under the hood.
Was the flywheel. I remove the transmission and replace the flywheel. More repair parking brake pedal. So it turns analyzed under the panel. I have a new problem. After repair. I driving my Dodge week. And once. After an overnight stay the machine, on morning the engine not start. I checked the spark. The spark is. I removed the fuel hose. and there is no pressure. Just a little bit of fuel.
I decided that this is the fuel pump. I took off his tank, bought a new fuel pump. The pump has not changed. Today I decided to apply voltage to the old pump, it still stands in the tank. It works. Buzzing. Then I decided to check the voltage on the connector. I turned on the ignition. The instrument appears briefly on 12 volts. They are only momentary. Now I think there should always be 12 volts? Fuel tank removed. All hoses are disconnected. Not really the problem in the fuel pump? How to troubleshoot? Where can I get the wiring diagram?
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I purchased a 2004 Chrysler Town & Country Dec 2003. I noticed an intermittent problem with my gear shift indicator lights PDRNL were all lighting up when I would start the vehicle in February 2004. I would have to play with the shift lever a few times to get it into gear.
On Feb 26, 2004 the vehicle would not start at all, would not even turn over. The vehicle had to be towed to the dealership. It had 3500 miles at the time. The error code was PO706 check shifter signal. They said it was the transmission range sensor and replaced it. I had no problems for 2000 miles until I was in northern Michigan and the gear shift indicator lights started doing the same thing.
I brought it to a local Chrysler dealership the next morning and they scanned the following codes PO1791 loss of prime PO705 check shifter signal BCM stored TCM message not received FCM stored TCM communication fault DSD stored incomplete power voltage. This dealership checked connections and wiring harness which were okay so advised me to take it back to my dealership at home since they would have to tear the whole van down to figure out what was wrong and any parts they would need would not get there before I left for home.
Luckily, I made it home with only one incident with these lights coming on. My dealership had the same error code PO706 and also PO444. Here is what their repair order states "DTC PO706 shift signal fault. Front pump allowing torque convertor to bleed down IPM internally shorted causing intermittent shift signal errors and PO444 and PO706. Scan and perform trans diag and fluid level full R & I the transmission R & I the pan and valve body replace the filter R & I the front pump and replace the front pump and torque convertor called STAR about intermittent loss of shift signal was told to replace the IPM. Replace the IPM (power distribution center) retest ok at this time."
So here is my question....I am very worried with all that I am reading about transmission problems and this van has only 6500 miles and all these parts that they have had to replace already is really scaring me!
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A few weeks ago I took my 03 Caravan to a shop and they said my alternator was fine, but the Wal*Mart battery (which I assume is a piece of rubbish) reads a bit low. When the temperatures are about 25 Fahrenheit or below the engine will sputter a bit usually at stop lights and the headlights will dim then go back to normal brightness a few times.
Now that the temperatures are in the 40s-50s I am still having this problem, but not as pronounced and sometimes it happens rather randomly. There is now another problem to go along with it. If I have the steering wheel turned hard while backing up and am not pressing the accelerator I have almost had Edward (my name for the Caravan) stall on me instead of just sputtering. Sometimes I feel like the engine is surging a wee bit as I drive down the road if I have just let off the accelerator. In general the RPM seems a bit erratic at times.
The fuel economy is the same as ever, the belts are all new over the past year, spark plugs, and all that. Recently replaced the vacuum plugs where the cruise control would go as well.
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Have a 06 Grand Caravan 3.8L that suddenly quit and would start back up easily enough, but one had to keep foot on the gas to keep it going.
I pulled two codes:
P0123-throttle postion sensor 1 high
P0508-IAC valve sensor circuit low/undercurrent
So far I have removed the IAC and cleaned it with throttle body cleaner, cleaned throttle body out as well with the spray, installed new EGR since it got mangled trying to remove it for cleaning. Removed the TPS connector and with key on, took measurements and I am getting a reference voltage proper ( almost 5 volts). I then back probed the connector once it was plugged back in and again things checked out, the reference lead was varying between .7 and 4.7 volts as I manually moved the throttle plate.
I had switched out the IAC with a used one, from an engine that had been running before being parked, but it made no change.
Note: I have a new TPS but am holding off on changing it until I investigate whether or not it may have a clogged fuel filter causing it to stall at idle speed. Now if can just locate where it is..the sketchy diagrams in my Alldata program are useful.
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I have a 2006 Dodge Caravan, My AC unit works great. With the heater, it will work for 2-3 minutes, at which point it starts to blow cool air. I can leave it running, but it never gets warm again, if I turn the fan off for 3-5 minutes, when I turn it back on, I get a good amount of heat that goes for about 2-3 minutes before blowing cold air again.
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I'm having electrical issues in my 2006 Dodge Caravan. It started with the radio not working (even though the lights around the nobs and buttons light up) and the lock button doesn't work until the van is started. Now, the windshield wiper won't turn off, even after the van has been turned off.
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The other evening my 2006 Town & County 3.3L would not accelerate well and I though I detected a miss while trying to accelerate. Also, when I got it up to around 55mph and would try to accelerate to pass, the engine would kick clear up to over 4000rpm and barley accelerate. I checked the plugs, the were fine, changed the plug wires didn't make any difference. The van had about a half a tank of gas in it, so I went ahead and filled it up, and that didn't change anything. I let the van sit overnight and the next afternoon took it out on the road and it seems to accelerate fine now.
The only thing I'm still noticing at this point is that with the transmission in park, when I try to rev the engine up to around 3000 rpm, it starts cutting off/missing very badly at around 2800 rpm.
My 99 grand voyager with 3.3L does not do, so I'm wondering if still have some kind of issue on my 06 or is there something on the newer vans that limits the rpm in park, it doesn't seem to be cutting out or missing at that rpm range now while driving.
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I had to replace the water pump on my dodge Grand Caravan, which was challenging, but I got it done. But now the engine light is on.... why would that happen? I did take off the filter hose, and unplugged the cord to move the air filter housing, but I plugged it back in when i re-hooked everything up. So now I am nervous that i did something wrong. Why the engine light would come on and stay on? water pump works, put coolant in etc.... no leaks.... so now i just need to figure out the engine light.
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When I drive through large puddles, or in the rain, my car doesn't turn. I believe this may be because my Splash Guard is missing.
I keep looking online to get a replacement, and they have one that looks exact, and another I have no clue if this would be the same or if it is a different piece all together.
The picture attached at 1.jpg is the one that looks exactly as the one that is gone from my car.
The second, is the one that I keep finding when I type in replacement splash guard.
Can this one be a proper substitute?
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I have a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan SXT with the 3.8 and 135,000 miles. Whenever it is hot out and the engine has been running it is hard to shift either from park or back into park. Today it completely froze on me and I had to wait for it to cool down before it would shift into park. Temp out is about 80 today.
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1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager SE 180K 3.3L
I read other threads about the connections under the hood, both sides, which I unplugged and replugged. I also pulled the IOD fuse for a little bit. Then I removed the cluster and looked it over. Looked good to me.
Got code P1698 for manufacturers assembly control or something to that effect. Thought I checked all the usual culprits. The dash lights work fine, so does everything else. The dash gauges just don't work. This is something that has been an intermittent problem with the dash gauges going out periodically when hitting a bump. It leads me to believe a connection. But I checked all those.
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We just purchased a 2012 Grand Caravan and was wondering where to get a key and program it. I know the key will be an arm and a leg if i get it from the dealer. Is there a tutorial that tells how to program it as well?
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2006 Caravan. Heat comes and goes every minute or so. Also noticed the temp gauge goes from normal operating range to cold and back again frequently. Hasn't overheated. Does that sound like a thermostat problem?
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On my 2005 3.3L Grand Caravan the ABS light keeping coming on. I inspected the sensors for the front and used my compressor to give them a quick puff of air to get rid of dust. The light went off for about 5 days. Now it is back on.
How does one read ABS codes? If I knew for sure that the problem is a speed sensor and which one I could clean or replace the faulty sensor.
If I clean to sensor are there any special precautions I need to take? As far as I could see they didn't look very dirty.
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What am i missing i have a terrible clunk in the front end when i hit bumps. I thought it was the struts and mounting plates so they are new . no change Stabilizer links were tight but i replaced them as well. Everything else seems tight but the noise has not changed with any of the above mentioned repairs.
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I'm having trouble with my 96' 3.0L, its kind of crazy its intermittent and while driving the engines surges one or twice and then dies... when I try to crank it up again cranks but don't starts if I try again it wont even crank ( no starter winding up ) what I noticed is that is I'm driving when it dies my check engine light disappears for a while and if I connect my OBD 2 reader does not link up with the ECU if I wait a while and I crank it up again its starts and the while cranking up I can hear a bang noise from the engine compartment drives side and then after a couple of minutes dies again...
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142k, having some problems lately, the van won't accelerate now and again, moreso when the engine isn't up to temp, but lately it's gotten more and more prevalent. I have done some recent and needed maintenance in hopes of fixing the issue, but to no avail so far. I've replaced the plugs and wires, air and fuel filters, and both upper and lower O2 sensors (first replaced the upper with a Bosch, almost immediately had problems with P0134 code, so instead went with a Denso, hasn't come back yet). I checked fuel pressure, 60 psi sitting in the shop, the cat doesn't seem to be clogged, and it idles fine all day long.
Problem resembles running out of fuel, or more maybe like I'm letting off the gas, but my cheap scanner says the TPS is working fine, and I was watching the TPS percentage as I was driving it was reading normally. As I'm accelerating slowly from a stop, it'll start to cut out around 30 mph, but speed doesn't seem to matter, if I accelerate sharply it just bogs and slows down, if it does shift up a gear, the rpms will jump to about 5k, then slowly decrease even if I've got my foot on the floor. I keep coming back to the fuel pump, but I don't have a long enough hose to have it connected while test driving. Considering removing the hood so I can prop the gauge up so I can see it while driving. I am getting a P0132 code now, but I'm more concerned with the accelerating issue.
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Intermittently the ABS Light is coming on. 84,000 miles.
Brakes have been changed once, 10,000 miles ago.
Minor clunk sound when light is on.
Light goes off after van has set, brakes work fine at that point.
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I've been fighting with these vehicle for months, and I've only been able to narrow down the list of possible issues. Tried replacing the ignition switch, battery terminals and cables, starter, and even a PCM since according to the dealership it was bad. I've checked all the fuses and relays, and they're all ok.
I'm getting fuel and spark, but no crank from the starter. The voltage going to the hot post on the starter is 12.7, but the voltage from the igniton wire is only reading around .5-.6, fluctuating a bit. Before I spend the money on taking it to a mechanic I wanted to know what your opinions were on what the next step is. I know a bit about electrical systems in cars but I'm no expert.
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