I have an 86 celica with a 3sgte swap. 92 Camry v6 transmission . It feels rough when going into gears. Not smooth. I just replaced the transmission and it feels EXACTLY like the old the.
View 1 RepliesWhen I shift the tranny from Park to Drive or Reverse, there's a whistling sound for 2-3 seconds. Also get the same sound when I brake hard.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2012 Sierra 1500 SLE with a 5.3 liter engine, 6 speed transmission and about 7700 miles. I have noticed that at times the truck does not seem to be performing efficiently and will not seem as smooth and transmission shifting is sometimes not so smooth in the lower gears. I have noticed that when I let the truck warm up for about a minute before putting it in gear, that all seems to go much more smoothly, but if I crank up cold and take off right away, then it tends to run not as smooth. I have even heard a slight "slap" type noise that I think is the transmission shifting when slowing down to make a turn at about 15-20 MPH. When I go to accelerate after the turn, it will sometimes slap as if it is hunting for the right gear. Obviously, I now let it warm up for a minute before I drive it. I have not talked to the dealer, but I probably will when I take it in for its 10K checkup.
View 1 RepliesWhen I start the car for the first time of the day, the shifting is not as smooth as when the engine is hot. Is this normal ? When I checked the trans fluid, it was between 25 and 75...(the second little mark on the dipstick) but I just drove about 5min so maybe the engine wasn't warm enough..
View 6 Replies1986 F150 3spd Auto 300 v6. My truck will not shift out of 1st in Drive, to shift into second I have to column shift to 2nd. 20mph top speed and idk what to do to fix it. I would like to put a 5 spd manual in it cause I would like to drive over 50mph.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1986 Ford Bronco straight six 300 4 speed manual NP 435
She grinded a bit when shifting from a stand still but nothing terrible for an old rig but leaked oil bad from the rear main seal so I took out the tranny/t case to put in new clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and rear main seal. When I put it all back together shifting into 1st would grind like CRAZY. So would reverse but not near as bad. So I took it all back apart inspected everything even torqued the clutch to specification. Put it back together and same result. So I replaced the slave/master cylinder thinking the clutch wasn't pushing enough bench bled it and still no luck.
Rebuild on the Mazda 5 speed transmission. My 1986 Ranger 2.3 Four cylinder has 280,000 miles and the clutch has never been replaced. It's not slipping but I'm having trouble getting it into gear from neutral. Was told that the release springs on the clutch plate have weakened causing the clutch to not release completely so figured it's time to replace it. It's done well the last 280,000 miles. The question I have : overhauling on one of these Mazda trans and how difficult was it. Any special tools required, etc...I see Autozone has a rebuild kit which appears to have bearings, seals and gaskets. Figured while it was out I would go ahead and rebuild it myself if I can. Rebuilt a few engines but never touched a trans.
View 4 RepliesI bought the car about a week ago, whenever the auto tranny shifts gears there is a slight jerk that old honda autos are known for, my wife's car is a 01 celica gt which I bought 2 months ago and went through castrol import ATF 3x drain n refill method suggested by honda for their auto trany, I attempted the same thing in the gts and the shift jerk went down a little but not by much, the gt auto tranny is so smooth I can't even tell whenever it shifts up or down other then high rpm engine noise when it gets there. Is it the engine being much more powerful then the gt to cause that jerk? Should I try a different fluid? Need to know if theirs is smooth across all gears in any rpm range.
View 4 RepliesThe car on cruise control sometimes randomly looses speed & downshifts to 3 and raise rpms quickly to gain the set cruise control speed again."
Vehicle Background: bought it from the original owner, the fuel gauge showed empty on a full tank of gas and I passed on the car, owner called a week later and said they installed a used PCM and everything now works, and it did, I bought it since it was a really clean car.
After driving on highway with cruise control set it would randomly loose power and downshift and then regain speed from being set on cruise control, mostly uphills and downhills but also straights sometimes and it would loose 7-8 mphs not the 1-3 mph loss that is typical of some other cars on cruise.
Engine has been rebuilt to success, other then this issue, the car drives like a dream and doesn't burn a drop of oil. Plenty of power compared to before the rebuild as well.
I learned from a DIY oil consumption fix on a 98 corolla that removing throttle body and cleaning it and the IACV, makes the vehicle idle within stock spec, really quiet and also improves the throttle response, I attempt this on the GT-S.
So I open up the airbox to make room to clean my throttle body and the 2 nuts were fairly loose, but the 2 bottom bolts were completely out that attach the throttle body to the intake manifold and only holding their place because of the tight fit in that area from all the hoses. This wasn't even touched during the engine rebuild.
I remove everything, looks dirty as [censored] and the intake has some oil in it, which I use brake parts cleaner to dry and use air to blow off and only got to remove maybe 30% of it from the inside of the intake. I then also remove the IACV to find it REALLY dirty like all the ones I had open so far and I go to town and cleaner both that and throttle body and replace both the gaskets as well.
Upon completion the vehicle's throttle response becomes AMAZING compared to before and it seem like a proper GT-S rather then a slow car which before had a slower acceleration then my 01 GT. I drive the same route home of 25 miles, the car NEVER once down shifts and has plenty of power and I'm HAPPY!
Well guess what, the issue is back now, I open the air box and both the nuts and the bolts seems firmly tight. I loosen everything up to still see the oil in the intake(though I only got to remove/dry30% the first time), brand new OEM PCV valve in the car 5k ago and I followed the PCV Valve pipe to the intake and it was dry from the inside as well.
when the vehicle is driven around and it returns to idle, it seems to hesitate(I think not 100% since it could be the engine just slowing down didn't do it before the throttle body cleaning though) for less then a second when going back to idle speed, it idles perfectly at around 750 rpms though. Questions:
1. What could be causing the oil in the intake? is it just the old oil what has been in the intake since before I bought it? The car doesn't burn any oil in the last 5k since the engine rebuild.
2. Could it be the PCM/VCM is causing the random power loss with cruise control on? which was a problem that was so called fixed using used parts but all the other automatic functions work perfectly.
3. Could it be the Cruise Control it self, apparently I can snag one from a local pick n pull for like 8 bucks (I think, listed on website)
4. Could it be this issue listed in this link? [URL] ..... , bad throttle position sensor? could it be that I cleaned the idle air control valve too roughly to get that slight hesitation when returning to idle?
5. Could it be the Throttle body itself in the GT-S? Did I clean it too aggressively, and ruined the round opening, which is causing the random loss of power? I had my cuzin do the throttle body removal and cleaning DIY step by step on our 99 corolla and he used a gasket remover (attached to a power tool) to clean up the dirt/oil build up inside the round opening and it started to give him jerks driving at highway speeds, constantly...We used the 98 corolla's gently cleaned throttle body in the 99 corolla and immediately issue solved. The proper working throttle body in the 98 corolla is a used replacement one as I aggressively cleaned the round opening in the original one and had hesitation issues as well.
bought the truck about 3 weeks ago and still having problems with the transmission. Replaced the VSS and it didn't work. My problems are it shifting hard from 1st to 2nd, it feels like it falls out of gear ( i can floor it and the speedometer creeps up then shifts hard.) Now i read having the 3rd brake light out is a problem with the trans too, my 3rd brake light is out along with the interior dome light ( doesn't go on when doors open) i plan to replace the TRS on the tranny tmw is there anything else i can do? how do i solve the brake light problem?
View 14 Replies2002 LS-V8 230k miles.
Recently, I'm noticing that when the car is cold, the transmission is sporadically shifting hard. Sometimes from P to R it kicks into gear hard. From R to D the same thing. Whenever I shift to to N first, and then go to R or D it never happens.
Have a 2000 expedition with 84,000 miles. Tranny seems to shift hard from first to second gear. Its been 24,000 miles since my last dealer tranny service. Thinking of getting a new service now before the recommended 30,000 manual recommendation. Whats happening?
View 6 RepliesHow to remove the sunroof in my 86 GTS?
View 1 RepliesNoticed that the transmission is cold (ie. sits overnight) it is hard, sometimes impossible, to shift into reverse. Specs on my gti: 14k miles, pretty much stock, manual trans...
View 1 RepliesI've got 95k miles on my 2001.5 and have been noticing that the transmission seems to shift pretty hard. Today it seemed like it was hardest in the 3rd to 2nd downshift. I got it checked out a couple of months ago and the dealer said it was the throttle body (which I haven't cleaned yet).
View 5 RepliesI just got a 2004 hyundai santa fe 2.7l 2wd model with only 92k miles that I just bought off of Craigslist anyways when im on flat ground and cruising through town the transmission shifts perfectly. However when i went up an incline to get on the freeway it shifted hard around 40 mph but after i got back on flat ground again I got caught up in bumper to bumper traffic and once it cleared it shifted perfectly all the way to freeway speeds of approximately 70mph. Then after getting off the freeway and picking my friend up when i went to get back on the freeway (another incline) it shifted hard again around 40mph.
View 15 RepliesThis has been a problem since I got the truck. It's a 1996 F150 5.8 4x4. It's got about 140,800 miles on it; had about 139,000 when I picked it up. Not sure if the trans has been rebuilt or not. I'm the 3rd Owner. It doesn't matter what temperature it is outside or how far my foot is down on the pedal... Just about every 1-2 shift is accompanied by a little kick/jolt. Going slow..(coasting, about 15mph) and it shifts into 2nd, usually the jolt is harder than hell!
Same goes for when I'm going about 25mph and I put the pedal to the floor It downshifts then comes back up to 2nd gear and wow. It jolts, shakes and shudders. Sometimes (rarely) I don't feel anything when it shifts. But it ONLY and always happens 1-2. not 2-1 either. Furthermore, when I go to put my truck into Reverse it kind of slams into it, with a clunk noise. All fluids have been changed recently and I also put "Lucas Oil Transmission Fix" in it and that didn't seem to change anything. What is going on internally?
Have an 89 F150 WITH 5.0 AOD TRANNY has a hard shutter from 1st to 2nd and shutters hard under low rpm I am Second also shifts rough all the way through and in to od and reverse was wondering what's the possible pro lens and how to fix them....
View 2 RepliesSo my r32 is the first DSG car I've owned. Been about over a year now and the gear change from 2 to 3 is not rough, but I can feel it. Almost like a bad dogbone mount...but only up shifting from 2-3. It does always happen. There are a lots of factors that come into play, throttle input, load, rpm, whether spark cut kicks in or not. DSG fluid is changed every 30k, UM engine/DSG combo. HPA puck.
The second issue happens much less frequently. Under heavy load, 2500-3200 rpm, in 3rd or 4th gear, the following upshift to 4th or 5th does something very strange. For some reason, when spark cut kicks in a too low an rpm in too high of a gear it engages the next gear then very quickly disengages and engages again. Almost as if it were another upshift.
VCDS doesn't allow me to access the PIDS for each individual shift solenoid, or the metering valve. Neither does the factory scan tool. I've been trying to catch the strange clutch activity in a log to post but every time I take my computer in the car and log the clutch activity it behaves normally.
Okay, little back story me and my dad pulled this 1986 Toyota Celica gts out of the wood after been left to rot with a broken timing belt. Anyways we fixed it, got it legally driving, everything was great. Well minus the acorns that blow out the vents when the ac was on. I was going to work one day and the oil pump locked up and broke the timing belt. We then had the motor rebuild .04 over I think... It ran like a brand new car but shortly after about 3 months I noticed every time I got in the car to go somewhere the idle was going up with each start of the motor. Now after sitting for a long time I really wish to get it running again.
It hasn't been started in a while, 2 years maybe. As I'm afraid that it might hurt the newly rebuild motor. It last idled at a constant 3500 RPM, if you're driving down the road it just keeps going tell you find yourself in 5th gear. It wants to take off from stop signs like a rocket as well... I know its not the cpu because we got one and swapped it out and it still does it we done a few other thing like check timing and try to adjust the idle screw checked the distributor cap. it has no codes flashing when using the jumper next to the engine. it has all brand new parts alternate, water pump, o2 sensor, fuel pump, oil pump, fuel injectors. I think that's about it.
I have a 2006 GS RWD the transmission started acting weird 4 month ago went to many workshops and no codes were found in the computer and my problem is that when i am moving in the car for more than half an hour and stop the car seems hard and jerking while shifting to 2nd gear and if i put it in tiptronic it go to 5th gear immediately it seems ok when the transmission is cold so what do you think it has got 125000 miles on it and what is the normal temperature for the transmission so i can test it with mini vci...
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