1986 F150 3spd Auto 300 v6. My truck will not shift out of 1st in Drive, to shift into second I have to column shift to 2nd. 20mph top speed and idk what to do to fix it. I would like to put a 5 spd manual in it cause I would like to drive over 50mph.
View 4 RepliesI have a 02 f150 4x4 5.4 135 k the transmission will not shift into drive unless you rev it up to about 1500 rpm and when it shifts it goes in very hard but when you get moving it seems to work ok but every time you stop or slow way down it does the same thing. It works fine in reverse and the oil and filter is good. I am thinking TC but i dont know ...
View 3 RepliesI have a 1986 Ford Bronco straight six 300 4 speed manual NP 435
She grinded a bit when shifting from a stand still but nothing terrible for an old rig but leaked oil bad from the rear main seal so I took out the tranny/t case to put in new clutch, throw out bearing, pilot bearing, and rear main seal. When I put it all back together shifting into 1st would grind like CRAZY. So would reverse but not near as bad. So I took it all back apart inspected everything even torqued the clutch to specification. Put it back together and same result. So I replaced the slave/master cylinder thinking the clutch wasn't pushing enough bench bled it and still no luck.
I have a 2000 F150 5.4L with 157k miles on it. I think it has the 4r70w trans. The transmission has started holding 2nd gear too long before shifting into third. Throttle position doesn't matter, it does it even under light throttle. I do not have a check engine light. I have owned the truck since new and the trans fluid has been changed 3 or 4 times. The fluid looks pretty good now, not burnt or anything. The truck has been sitting in the garage a lot over the past 2 years, I drive it at least once a month and have put maybe 2000 miles on it this year. It shifts fine through the other gears, just 2-3 has an issue. Truck has the towing package.
View 6 RepliesIn Drive the engine revs but wont accelerate more than 25mph. D1, D2, and reverse work as usual. Fluid is dark, but no debris, no burnt smell. Should I change the fluid & filter? The shop said that would make it worse.
View 1 RepliesI have an 86 celica with a 3sgte swap. 92 Camry v6 transmission . It feels rough when going into gears. Not smooth. I just replaced the transmission and it feels EXACTLY like the old the.
View 1 RepliesMy 94 F150 has been actingup lately with the 4r70 transmission not shifting into 3rd gear or above. I replaced the MLPS sensor and re pinned the plug as per the instructions with the switch.The old sensor had the plug on the side, same type of plug, but wires indifferent spots. Truck wouldn't start like that, so repinned to match the instructions. I couldn't get the neutral mark to 100% line up as there is not enough adjustment, but it is very close.
The old plug had
32-298-140-33
57-199-359-463
I switched it to
57-359-199-463
33-140-298-32
Then tried
463-359-199-57
33-140-298-32
Truck still won't shift to 3rd, overdrive off button doesn't light up and itwon't start in neutral. I tested the ground at the connector and it lights up atest light connected to the pos bat cable with no issues.
Back up lights won't work, but flicker as going from R to N, so I suspect that is due to the fact I couldn't get the marks to line up 100%, but i'm not worried about that now.
96 F150 carbed 300 with a C6/208 SAS44/9" with 3.55 on 35s.
I put a transgo shift kit in the transmission before putting it in the truck, it also has a small stall. At half throttle you can manually shift 1-2-3 with no issue at all. Under full throttle when you shift to second it won't go into second until you push the shifter into third. Then it'll go to second and spin the tires when it grabs second in dirt. This is all in 4lo, I was gonna switch to 2hi and try it but it's raining and I don't feel like crawling under it to change it. The truck is a mud toy so will spend 90% of its time in 4lo.
I don't have a vacuum line currently hooked to the transmission because I have the same shiftkit (transgo) in my 77 and no vacuum line on it either and it works fine.
This is an Auto/4z4/4.6 V-8. It's Skidding or a Clutch is not holding at times when shifting up or down while on Cruise and slight hills.
someone suggested changing oil and filter about two years ago. I did that and it didn't change a thing. $145 that time.
I'd like to know if its the clutch in the torque converter, or the Transmission? If I have to change something out, should I get both?
Bought a used 1997 Lariat Supercab 5.4L last week. It was missing its front drive shaft so I want to install one.
I just ordered a used front drive shaft online but I now need the bolts that connect everything together. New drive shaft has all the flanges, etc.
What is the pitch/length of these bolts? The part number for the bolts is N800594-S100 (AB-308-D). I believe there would be 8 of them, 4 on each side.
I thought it might be easier and cheaper to just buy bolts from an aftermarket supplier instead of OEM from Ford.
I have a 94 E350 with the 460 and the E4OD trans. that has only 30K on it.
Last weekend I took it on a 250 mile trip (one way) and it ran beautiful until the final steep hill to our vacation house. It started vibrating when it went to down shift and wouldn't pick up any speed, the OD off light was blinking. When I pushed the OD button and it cleared right up. Ran beautiful until I tried to climb that same hill again (same thing happened). It showed the same symptom when I tried to back up a steep driveway during the same trip.
Now it no longer does the vibrating but now has harsh/firm up shifts. Downshifts are smooth though, but shifting into reverse and drive are bit clunky too.
The codes I pulled were KOEO 212 and 668. After I erased the codes the 668 didn't come back. But I did change the MLPS to the new updated one from Ford and its still doing it.
I also found the 40amp mega fuse under the hood was blown too, related? Could a 1/2 qt over filled trans. cause this now too? In NH I added some fluid thinking it was low because I could not get a clear reading on the dipstick but I think the level was up there.
Our Rv makes a strange "clank" noise whenever we shift into drive. It is a 87 Ford Econoline 350 with the 460 7.5l. The noise is from the back of the Rv kind of near or in the rear differential. It just started over this past weekend.
We live in Alaska and the mechanics are 3 hours away - do you think we would be able to make it to the mechanics and not have to get a tow? How long we could go without fixing the problem?
So here in Wisconsin for the last two weeks we have had nothing but ice. That being said, I have a '96 ranger 3.0L, automatic transmission, 4x4. 4 wheel is inoperable at the moment, that's a different story. Here's my question: with the ice, there has been a lot of tire spinning at high RPM's, the other day, I was again stuck on the ice and rocked back and forth had some pushers, thought we were getting somewhere but I went to shift gears and all of a sudden had nothing. No Reverse, Drive, OD, L, 2. Did I blow my tranny? There was no noise or grinding, but the OD light seems to blink. Is there something I can check or look at?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2008 Ford Escape 2.3L V6. About 67K miles on it.
Recently there's been some transmission problems. When the selector is in Drive, it will take abnormally long to shift into the next gear at normal speeds, and will redline if i hit it hard, but if i let off the gas, it will shift. Never hard.
If I put the selector in 2, it will do the same thing, eventually shifting into that second gear.
Gear selector on one, well, it obviously stays in 1st.
Reverse is fine. All shifts are smooth just take forever, and I get the wrench in the dash (means drivetrain/throttle fault as per manual) only after driving a while. The tranny fluid is still very clean, and this as been going on for 2 months.
Ive taken it to about 6 different places. Half say new tranny off the bat. Other half says clean fluid for that long after the problem started means its def. an electrical problem, and that makes the most sense to me. What it could be?
I'm thinking:
-Tranny Range Positioning Sensor
-Input/Output speed sensor
-TCM reprogramming/replace
- I'll even go with reflashing the PCM.
I have read the common problems and went ahead and replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, TPS. Also had a complete tranny flush done. The shifting problem persists, when I drive around 25-40 mph, the car will constantly upshift or downshift on its own even. Sorta like I get to 30 mph and it suddenly decides to downshift, like it has become ultra sensitive to minor increases in torgue(?) or can't decide if it wants to be in 3rd or 4th gear. Did check with Jiffy Lube to make sure they replaced it with SP3 fluid and they did. What else this might be? Check engine light comes on now and then and currently is off.
View 1 RepliesI got a new truck bed and decided it was time to finally fix my rear lights. Both blinkers work but only one brake light. It has really got me stumped. Also the rear running lights don't work and never have. When using a multi meter I get continuity between the running light positive and the common negative but only when the rear light harness is plugged in which means the short is somewhere on the way back or under the dash? Any tips about tracking this stuff down.
View 6 RepliesWhat to do next. Engine is running on 4 cylinders, #1, 4, 5, 8. Had a mice nest on top of injector #2. Removed mice nest. The mice had chewed through wire for #2 injector and caused bear lead rubbing on the block. One lead rubbed through. Repaired, splised in a wire. Also changed rotor, rotor cap, all sparkplug leads and plugs.
Troubleshooting.
Compression on all 8 cylinders measured to be above 160 psi.
There is spark to all 8 cylinders, including the other 4 cylinders, 2, 3, 6, 7 that is nor developing power.
Fuel rail pressure is 35 psi on idle and spikes to 43 when reving the engine.
The fuel injector resistance all all measured injectors are the same (about 14.8 Ohm). Measured injector # 1, 2, 5, 6, 7, 8. Injector # 3 and 4 is hidden and require too much disassembly. Visual inspection deems wire for #3 and 4 injector to be ok on top of block.
Electric impulse (tested while engine was running) to injector # 1, 5 and 8 are ok, used test lamp to see that there are electric impulse to the injectors. Injector #2, 6 and 7 does not have any electric impulse. Unable to check electric impulse to # 3 and 4. However cylinder #4 develops power. Used moving the sparkplug wire for cylinder #4 to verify that is is developing power.
What would my next step be? Where should i look next?
1. Where is the control module and is it likely to fire to only 4 cylinders
2. Could it be an wire in the pickup element, under the distributor. All wires seem intact.
86 f150 4x4
brake pedel goes straight to the floor but if u give it short pumps of the pedel it grabs but barley....master cylinder or the booster?
Question regarding a 89 Cadillac Eldorado 4.5 V8 FWD, Transmission - 260,000 miles on car, runs great. Last couple of months, I have noticed that it will only shift into Over Drive when the car is cold, sat overnight. It will shift 4 or 5 times into Over Drive no problem. When car warms up, then it will not shift into Over Drive ever again, and I will get a 39 error code. Are there solenoids that I can replace, if so where are they? I'm not sure where to start with this problem?
View 6 RepliesI have an 86 F150 that is idling rough. It used to cut out on me until I replaced the fuel pressure regulator. I have read in other posts that the problem for my rough idle could be leaking injectors. When I replaced the regulator I found a bad injector. My question is that if I check my fuel pressure, with the new regulator, would the only way I would lose pressure be that my injectors are leaking?
View 5 RepliesMy engine is running rich, flooding? My truck is a 1986 F-150 302 EFI. The engine idles rough, black smoke and soot comes out the exhaust pipes, and black soot on spark plugs. Symptoms seem to disappear if I throttle the engine and hold it, but as soon as I release the throttle the symptoms reappear and in most case causes the engine to die. These symptoms have just started a week ago. What the problem is.
Fuel injectors are cleaned and rebuilt. New plugs and wires. All new fuel pumps and filters. New air filters. New fuel pressure regulator. New dual function reservoir. New 3-piece timing set. New O2 sensor. New EGR Valve and sensor. New idle air control valve. New distributor, cap, and rotor. New ignition coil. New high volume oil pump. New alternator. New pcv valve. New knock sensor and air charge temp. sensor.