Celica :: 1990 GTS - Water Pump Is Dying
Nov 25, 2011
I have a 1990 GTS with a transplanted 1996 S5HE 2.2 motor. This summer I started getting overheating issues and I believe my water pump is dying.
Here's the symptoms; car will run nice and cool on the freeway doing 70 with the tach turning at 3.5k. As soon as I get off the freeway and RPMs drop the coolant temp will spike almost into the red. Accelerating from the stop will drop the temp but it will hover near the high end of the middle till I get back on the freeway or RPM's go back up.
It does the same thing when climbing hills or when the engine is under load. It did it bad this summer when it was hot out and I was running the AC. Bad enough that it boiled over a couple times. The radiator is brand new and just based on the symptoms I'm thinking water pump.
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Ok, I just bought myself some problems in the form of a '93 Celica GTS. (5S-FE)
Well, alright, that's a little dramatic. it just overheats. but here's my issue. it's got a new water pump, new radiator, and is still overheating. The guy I bought from says it's in the block, cuased by an attempt to plug a radiator leak with stop leak. He said it just had a minor leak in the radiator, so he put stop leak in it, and after that it started overheating. he's replaced the thermostat, water pump, and radiator since then.
My first question is, could he (and I) be overlooking something? could there be a clog somewhere easier to access? and then if there isn't, how should I go about cleaning out the block? are there areas I should check? anything I should do to try to unclog it? my current plan is to put cooling system flush in (he has some) and drive it home (about 55min. drive) with the flush in it, then empty it and hope for the best.
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My father in law gave us a car to use so my husband can get back n forth to work. Recently it started dying on him while he was on the highway and we don't know whats wrong with it. His father told us its a brand new batter that was put in it before he gave it to us. The car is a 1990 Honda Accord. The radio already doesn't work so its always off. The car dies no matter if heat/air is on or off. I don't think it could be a battery problem. There's 2 lights that come on when it dies: battery and oil. We put oil in it. The weird thing is that after it dies, we put it in park and turn key in ignition to off position and then restart it and it starts right back up with no problem. We really don't know whats wrong with it but cant afford to take it to mechanics to tell us 100 other things wrong with it..
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I'm having a rough go with my little 1990 Ranger Custom. Let me get into the signs and symptoms I'm finding, The Truck is having starting and dying issues. It has plenty of Gas. It is completely erratic when it dies. I'll be driving along and suddenly, as if turning the key off, it dies. No sputtering of the motor, no clicking or clacking or growling anywhere. Just a clean sounding turn off. The odd thing is, I'll leave it for a few hours, and the problem disappears. I can drive it for one to 30 minutes and then it can die again.
Now it's sitting in my driveway I am rough on the truck, because its a work truck that I use to drive down to my job site. So, farm pasture, fields, woodland paths and tractor access roads. I checked to see if the pump plug was unplugged. But it's very plugged in. The entire fuel system is just less than a year old, and I am very good friends with the old owner and he can't figure it out either. Could I be having ignition problems? There is a ticking in the engine compartment that isn't very noticeable, only noticeable when the hood is up and motor running, but that has always been there since I've had it. I heard that sometimes the safety switch on the firewall turns off the fuel system in case of accident.
Could that have gotten agitated? I've been having this issue for a little while, after I drove it in the rain for an hour and half. It was pouring rain. I ran out of gas the day after (because my fuel gauge doesn't work) and I used a Jerry can filled with gas to get it to the gas station. I didn't sift the gas, but I don't see it having debris either. Could I have water in the system? I put injector cleaner in my tank and more gas to try and dilute the system but, that doesn't seem to have worked...
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Installed new motor in 2000 celica gt after blown piston on monday the 17th. From monday 17th to thursday night on the 20th the car battery and alarm worked with no issues.
I was installing the touchscreen and sub in the car the night of the 20th and when i pulled the positive terminal from the battery to power the sub, then reinstalled the terminal but the alarm went off and would not disarm via the remote (that has worked for several years before the repair job). I tried replacing the battery but still nothing. i even check voltage on the remote board to verify output voltage when button was pressed.
I called Audiovox and they had me remove the 10 pin connector to disable the alarm and that worked. i drove the car home the night of the 20th. the morning of the 21st the car started fine and the audio system was installed and working.
The afternoon of the 22nd i went to start the car and it was dead. I have tried disconnecting the audio system to check that but the battery still dies overnight.
I used a amp meter to check the draw on the battery on on saw .94 amp with the door open and light on. i saw .14 amp's with the door shut and no light. This just doesn't seem like enough draw to drain the battery but i still have to pop the clutch in the morning to go to work.
I have noticed that my drivers door does not lock using the controls inside the car. I do not know what kind of alarm system is on the car, it has no markings on the case or the board itself. the serial number did not pull a single result in google. I called audiovox because that's who makes the shock sensor on the car, they say its universal.
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
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90 GTS - Manual Transmission. 5SFE
I have a vibration that rattles the cab of the car during start up. But if you get out, lift the hood and listen, you cant hear anything. Its only in the cab where you can even tell there's something not right. The motor runs great and seems very smooth to the touch and visually.
The vibration does seem to go down as the car warms up..... Somewhat....You can hear the vibration when driving and go down through slight dips in the road. Kinda like hitting the rumble strips on the side of the hwy.When I release the clutch and under power the vibrations go away. Under deceleration the vibrations are loud.After weeks of research, both TN and the web, I have done all this so far.
Changed Plugs, wires, cap. All four engine mounts were taken out, inspected, and 3 of the 4 were replaced from a donor car. All 4 looked good anyways....
Swapped harmonic balancer/pully from a donor car.
Compression check. 196 200 200 208
Cleaned IAC valve.
Pulled off exhaust manifold and verified CAT isnt broken.
Inspected exhaust from front to back and cant find anything.
Replace timing belt, tensioner bearing and idler bearing while I was in there.
Took both fan belts off and ran car to see if maybe power steering or AC, but car still rattled even though they weren't turning.
Did head gasket while building this car up because it was leaking oil from the front return tube area.
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I recently took the engine apart and got the head resurfaced after the head got warped. New thermostat, waterpump, timing belt, serpentine belt, power steering belt, and gaskets for all sorts of stuff. After reassembling the engine everything worked fine. No strange noises. Only problem i am having now is that the cooling fan switches on really late, when the needle is 3/4 of the way towards H, sometimes even a little later. Fan is working as when i disconnect the cooling fan switch(bottom of radiator) and the fan does kick on. ECT was also replaced and nothing seems to work. I did replace the switch and the fans failed to kick on, unfortunately i got it from Autozone.This is a 1990 Celica GTS with the 5SFE 2.2L
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When I put my key in the ignition, I cannot turn the key. I tried putting a small amount of WD40 in the ignition and turning the wheel back and forth while trying to start, but all that did was make my key greasy and my wheel lock up. I've tried getting a new key made from Lowes and Home Depot, but their keys are too wide and will not fit in the keyholes. The only thing I am down to is replacing the ignition switch completely but I'd rather do that as a last resort because my car has had a big problem every week (alternator gone, new wheels, new master cylinder, new rotors/brakes). I haven't explored yet? And also, if it comes down to replacing the ignition switch, how would I do that without being able to turn the key?
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I just got a 1990 toyota celica and it turns over but dont start. its getting fuel up to the motor. i got it from a friend that gave up on it and he got it from a guy that replaced the 2200 with a 2000 engine. everything looks to be connected but i dont know where to start.
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A little background on how I got into this situation. Bought a '90 Celica GT for $300, was told it had a blown head gasket. It started and sounded nice, if a little ruff. Upon driving, it would stutter (like a misfire) till 3k rpm's, then that would go away and she purred like a kitten. Ok I thought I can make this girl into a woman. I start my teardown and what I found was: front 5 head bolts were not torqued down, and the only place on the old gasket that looked like blowby was on cylinder 3 towards the front on the engine. I think to myself it was loose headbolts, bang I send the head in to get cleaned, buy the gasket kit and go about cleaning the various other parts.
I was cleaning the blocks mating suface, and discovered a small surface crack. It goes from one water jacket port to the headbolt hole and to the other water jacket port.
The headbolt hole shown is the 4th(from timing belt) on the back of the block. The loose headbolts were on the front.
The crack does NOT go down the side of the bolt hole, or the water jacket ports. I am just really afraid this means a new block. The parts I can return if all else fails, but Im down the tube on the money spent on the car and head cleaning.
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1990 Celica GT ... I will be completely replacing the transmission, and the flywheel while adding a new stage 2 clutch kit. Also replacing the shocks all around.
Okay now to the problem, I don't know exactly where or what fluid or fluids it is yet. it seems to be leaking oil from the oil pan drain bolt also it seems to be leaking coolant too from somewhere behind the oil catch pan area. I did not change the water pump when the timing belt snapped but it looks like some water corrosion on the pump itself. are these common problems and what will solve these leaks?
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My Celica is running great, I drove about 30 miles and the car started hesitating to run, I was in heavy traffic, I could hear rattling sounds which appeared as though they were coming from the heater. I stopped at a stop light and I could tell something was burning out. I have lots of power, car is very fast. I went to the next stop light and the car died, it started and I went to the next stop light with plenty of speed and the car died and would not start again. I tried starting the car for 3 hours, no fire from the coil.
I have no spark out of the coil. I am confident the coil is good. I have 2 coils. I went to the salvage lot and purchased an "igniter" (ignition module). I installed it on my Celica, still no fire out of the coil. I have a relay under the glove box that clicks when I crank over the engine. The engine cranks over very well for over 3 hours. I have an after market alarm. Why do I not have spark out of my coil?
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica, and I've been having trouble with it not starting after driving. There are no symptoms when the car is running, aside from a very slight rough idle. The car starts fine after sitting for 3-4 hours, but for short trips where it's off for under 1-2 hours, it cranks but will not start. The cranking also seems weak unless I floor the gas while trying to start, and sometimes it will eventually start if I hold the gas while cranking. It always starts at the beginning of the day.
This leads me to believe I'm dealing with a flooded engine, but I'm not sure how to diagnose why. I thought it might be leaky fuel injectors, but wouldn't that cause symptoms when running?
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I have a 90 celica. I start it up and it idles fast until it warms up. then it runs great until i turn it off. then it will not restart! i went to the gas pump. it would not start after i pumped gas. it turns over but wont start. the next day it starts up fine. it does this all of the time. when it wont start there is no spark coming from the coil except when you let up on the keyl it sparks once.
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I have a 90 celica gts. when it drove, it would violently shudder taking off in first gear. the front motor mount was shot so i was hoping that was the problem. well right after i fixed it, the starter went so i had to compression start it, and the shuddering was still there, and i was about to shift to second when it revved up popped outta gear and didn't go anywhere. it wouldn't go into any gear.
I can go through all the gears without the clutch in. the guy i got the car from said the clutch was new. now i'm not sure if hes just lying or if the guy who put it in didn't know what he was doing. could this be a bad throughout bearing? or the trans? if its the trans i'm scrapping it, also the shiftier is REALLY loose. and before the clutch went it would make weird whirring noises in 1st.
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1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
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Installed a "new" battery in my celica (it was used but tested good) went to start up the car to see if it was good and the car started right up
Shut the car off cleaned up my throttle body a bit the went to start the car again it it would just crank and crank
I just put in a new fuel pump, so that cant be it, I have not checked for spark yet ( car is stuck at work )
I heard that the ignition coil likes to fail on these would that be causing this problem?
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I just replaced my clutch and now my speedo is not working ? It did work for about a day after the job, but now it just reads 0 all the time... would low fluid cause that ?? I put two quarts in after putting the trans back ....
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I have a 90 celica, and while I driving today, the engine started smoking. I pulled over and took a look. The smoke was coming from behind the smoke and air filter area. I let it sight for about 2 hours and drove it back home and it wasn't smoking. Both times, it was on the road for about 20 minutes. I got a buddy of mine to take a look and he said that it was caused from the coolant boiling(I didn't think coolant coils boil). And it rained for a week straight, and I haven't driven it since it started raining. Could that have anything to do with it?
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