Toyota - Celica :: 1990 - Engine Started Smoking?
Jun 26, 2011
I have a 90 celica, and while I driving today, the engine started smoking. I pulled over and took a look. The smoke was coming from behind the smoke and air filter area. I let it sight for about 2 hours and drove it back home and it wasn't smoking. Both times, it was on the road for about 20 minutes. I got a buddy of mine to take a look and he said that it was caused from the coolant boiling(I didn't think coolant coils boil). And it rained for a week straight, and I haven't driven it since it started raining. Could that have anything to do with it?
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My car has 343,000 miles and runs great. It has recently started smoking, but only does it when the engine is cold. I've heard that it could be the rings, and to buy an additive that I could add to the oil. I go through about a half a quart for every 500 miles. I'm not expecting the car to last forever, but I was wondering if it would be beneficial to buy the additive.
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I just got a 1990 toyota celica and it turns over but dont start. its getting fuel up to the motor. i got it from a friend that gave up on it and he got it from a guy that replaced the 2200 with a 2000 engine. everything looks to be connected but i dont know where to start.
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica, and I've been having trouble with it not starting after driving. There are no symptoms when the car is running, aside from a very slight rough idle. The car starts fine after sitting for 3-4 hours, but for short trips where it's off for under 1-2 hours, it cranks but will not start. The cranking also seems weak unless I floor the gas while trying to start, and sometimes it will eventually start if I hold the gas while cranking. It always starts at the beginning of the day.
This leads me to believe I'm dealing with a flooded engine, but I'm not sure how to diagnose why. I thought it might be leaky fuel injectors, but wouldn't that cause symptoms when running?
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I have a 1990 Toyota Celica that won't seem to start after I've driven it awhile. After sitting, it takes around 4 or 5 hours for it to start again (although this is highly variable). The first start of the day is always normal. Recently it will stall at idle, then have trouble starting up. The engine seems to "try harder" to start if I press the gas.
The weird thing is that I was able to start it up easily today by popping the clutch. This has been a problem I've been struggling with for a few months, and over that time I have replaced the starter, battery, fuel pump, spark plugs and wires, and EFI/Main Engine relays. It always cranks, just no start.
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89 toyota truck 4x4... A few weeks ago I had my truck in 4wd and was reversing, I stopped and tried to go into first gear. I found that the shifter would not engage, I can move the shifter around 360 degrees with nothing catching. I checked under the shifter boot and thought it may be the bushing that is shot. To feel safer anyway I decided to have a friend tow me to pavement and have AAA tow me into town, as I live 7 miles down a curvy mountain road off grid. As i was being towed out today the truck started spewing black smoke from about where the shifter is underneath the truck. Freaking out, we stopped the tow and i coasted back down the hill into the driveway.
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I have a 1990 toyota celica. The parking attendant somehow locked the steering wheel and the key will no longer turn in the lock. I tried everything i could think of: turning the wheel whilst turning the key, putting car in all positions other than park and then turning the wheel and key, changing the key, etc....The steering wheel remains locked and will not unlock.
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got a sweet deal on it but only 1 problem with the car. when i shift into 2nd gear there is a grinding noise, however it doesnt grind if i drive super slow... it doesnt really matter if i upshift or downshift into 2nd it will make the noise either way... also the grinding noise is only there WHILE shifting the lever into 2nd gear so its only there for a second, once the lever is shifted into 2nd gear there is no grinding noise at all...not sure if this is related but the clutch pedal also feels very lose just when its about to hits the floor...
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I have a 90 toyota celica st. I was driving it the other day and it died on me while driving... twice! The second time was going down a steep hill and it was freaken scary for a minute as the breaks were not working, the car started again and I was able to stop! Anyway I know enough about cars that once your car starts it should not die. Could it be the alternator? It seems to start up just fine. I did notice though that when the car died on me both times I was taking a pretty sharp right turn. And when it died every thing blinked twice then out went everything. Im sure that it is a code for something but I do not have the owners manual as I was not the original owner. I just started it up today again and it makes a weird clicking noise before I even turn the key.
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So my aunt's celica just crapped out on her over night. Car was running normal till the morning she was going to work. She started it and had all kinds of problems.
Basically, engine has no power. I live not too far from her (half a mile) and i tried to drive it to my house to work on it, and it was a terrible drive. I had to keep it in first the whole time, with the car barely accelerating.
Car has new spark plugs, new cap rotor and wires, Here is a pic of how the spark plugs look like after 3k miles
I checked timing and it was perfectly aligned, i swapped over a known good dizzy and nothing has changed.
Changed out the ect sensor for a new one, nothing has changed.
Here is a video of how it runs .....
Not sure what that popping is but it sounds like it's coming from inside the intake manifold.
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I have a 85 toyota celica gts 5 speed 22re the other day I was driving it and it started running out I cut it off as soon as it started let it cool down and noticed I was low on water so I put some more in and limped it home. When I got home I let it set over night. The next day I poured some more water in it instantly it poured it on the ground never cranked it or anything. It is pouring it out of the left side of the motor. I thought it was hg but I checked the oil no milky look to it I checked all around the water pump and the two main radiator hoses nothing. I can borrow it down between the oil filter and the front of the motor but just. Can't find the source.
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Over the last few weeks, I'd been smelling something. Today, I realized it must have been coolant. Today, my 225,000 mile, 2.3L 4cyl 5spd 1990 Camry started blowing smoke. When I parked, and gingerly touched the radiator, it was cool -- and empty. When I squeezed the upper hose, it crackled as if very dry. I drove the car about a mile and parked it at home.
When it cooled, I confirmed the radiator is empty -- except for a lot of reddish crud. A hint of the same reddish color on other engine parts MAY be from coolant spraying under the hood, but I'm not sure.
I couldn't tell from spots on the garage floor whether the coolant had leaked out there or not.
How should I proceed from here to address ... a) the leak, and b) any other damage caused by running the car dry?
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Toyota Celica 1993 has been in the shop for 7 weeks and now the shop says they have no idea how to fix the car. Car blows a fuse when the car is started. Replace fuse; try again and fuse blows.
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I was driving my 2000 celica gt and it started making an awful sound. It was clunking and started slipping. The rpm's held constant but the car was going slower. I had it towed home. I have driven it a few times and the noise is still present once the car was going down the road in third gear and the front wheels locked up and the car screeched to a halt. it can be put into gear and driven at slow speeds. I assume that the transmission has failed. If it is in fact the transmission there is a gt-s with a 6 speed at the local junk yard. From what i read the swap is direct bolt in. Is that true and does the shifter need to be changed?
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I have a 2nd gen 3sgte smoking on high boost, not on idle and not on normal driving. Could it be my CT26 turbo leaking? or head gasket? there is some oil residue on the compressor inlet. By the way it's a blue smoke.
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I replaced my 7AFE engine in my Celica 1997 1.8 with another 7AFE engine. The replacement engine had a different wiring harness, so I kept my original wiring harness.
After the swap, I started the engine and it stopped by itself after about 30-60 seconds.
Now it wont start. I have fuel, but no spark. I have tried three different distributors.
I have tried to read the fault codes, with connecting TE1 and E1, but no engine light lights up in the dash.
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I have a 92 Celica ST 1.6L 5 speed with 175,000 miles on it. When should I consider getting the timing belt changed?
Also, several months ago the engine started acting up while I was on a long road trip, suddenly anytime I tried to accelerate the engine started sputtering / acting like is misfiring.. It got progressively worse during the trip, so I pulled over and to my surprise there was a significant amount of oil in one of the spark plug 'wells'. After soaking the oil up with a rag and cleaning the spark plug cable/connector the problem has only occurred one time since, and not nearly as much oil was present. It sound like I just need new spark plug cables.
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On my early 90's Corolla, when I turn the key to "on" but don't start the engine, the fuel gauge will -- for example -- read 1/4 full. It will stay at 1/4 indefinitely as long as the engine isn't running. Then when I start the engine and drive the car for a few minutes, I notice the gauge has gone up, so it will be reading 3/8 full within 5 minutes of driving. And I don't have to be moving, once it gets to 3/8, it says at 3/8 whether moving or idling at a stoplight. It has always done this, even since the car was new. It's not a problem, but I've always been curious what causes the fuel guaue to rise like this.
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I have a 90 gts celica, which the motor went in it, so i put a 93 5sfe into it. I took the old distributor out of the 90 5sfe and put it into the new motor. I wasn't getting any spark. So i replaced the distributor with a known good one. No spark. replaced the coil and igniter, no spark still.
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My 1990 Toyota Corolla which I hate to retire has only 64,000 miles on it. Starts and runs but while I am driving the dash lights up and the engine shuts off and won't restart. He thinks it is the NEC (?) switch but he said he is not really sure. Spending all that money and then finding out it is not fixed would not be worth it. It also is dangerous what if I am on the expressway?
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Just acquired a 1990 celica gt at a steal lol and needing some troubleshooting answers. tonight was the first night we really had drove it, but my husband drove it to work which is an hour away and he noticed that when he comes to a stop the oil pressure light comes on. as soon as he starts to go again it goes off. the engine does not make any noises other than the typical 2200 lifter chatter and it does not leak oil.
We plan on doing an oil change so we are not sure if that could just be the issue or if it's something else. we had this issue with a dodge ram we had and it ended up being the oil pressure sending unit. he took the one off the car and it did need some tightening up but however when he put it back on the issue was still there.
We do not believe it's any low compression as the car cranks fine and normal with no rising of the cranking as you would get for a cylinder with low compression. we aren't really sure about the bearings because well that's not one of those things easily tested but the engine doesn't make a noise which I know at times you won't have one.
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