My car has 343,000 miles and runs great. It has recently started smoking, but only does it when the engine is cold. I've heard that it could be the rings, and to buy an additive that I could add to the oil. I go through about a half a quart for every 500 miles. I'm not expecting the car to last forever, but I was wondering if it would be beneficial to buy the additive.
View 13 RepliesI have a 90 celica, and while I driving today, the engine started smoking. I pulled over and took a look. The smoke was coming from behind the smoke and air filter area. I let it sight for about 2 hours and drove it back home and it wasn't smoking. Both times, it was on the road for about 20 minutes. I got a buddy of mine to take a look and he said that it was caused from the coolant boiling(I didn't think coolant coils boil). And it rained for a week straight, and I haven't driven it since it started raining. Could that have anything to do with it?
View 6 Replies89 toyota truck 4x4... A few weeks ago I had my truck in 4wd and was reversing, I stopped and tried to go into first gear. I found that the shifter would not engage, I can move the shifter around 360 degrees with nothing catching. I checked under the shifter boot and thought it may be the bushing that is shot. To feel safer anyway I decided to have a friend tow me to pavement and have AAA tow me into town, as I live 7 miles down a curvy mountain road off grid. As i was being towed out today the truck started spewing black smoke from about where the shifter is underneath the truck. Freaking out, we stopped the tow and i coasted back down the hill into the driveway.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2004 Toyota Corolla, with about 175,000 miles, and recently the heating system has been acting up. About three weeks ago the heat started to be slow coming, even when the engine was warm, but after a bit of driving it would kick in. The blower would work the whole time, but it would blow cold, instead of hot. However, no even that amount of heat has subsided, and the blower only blows cold air. On top of that, within the last week or so the engine has begun to almost overheat early in driving, but settles down a bit after driving a few miles. What might be happening?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2006 Corolla LE with about 93,600 miles.
It was about 16 degrees Fahrenheit this morning and I drove on a cold start, and noticed the engine knock a bit when idling. Later noticed check engine light come on. After the car fully warmed up, 15 minutes later, the knocking seemed to subside.
I don't think I've replaced the spark plugs in the longest time, so could it be this issue?
2008 Tundra 5.7 only 55K miles – What is causing an intermittent misfire at startup? It’s been running great, then 2 weeks ago when I started it up I could feel a misfire. By the time I backed out of the driveway the check engine light came on. This is what I have learned so far:
•It only happens when you start the engine and the engine is NOT at operating temperature.
•The engine code always reports misfire on Cylinder #2 I put in a new plug and swapped coils but it still reports the misfire on cylinder #2.
•Once it starts to misfire it will continue to misfire until the engine is at operating temperature and you restart the engine. NOTE: You MUST restart the engine for the misfire to go away. It will be running rough, turn engine off/on once it is at operating temperature and it's as smooth as can be, no more misfire.
•One time I started the truck, I felt the misfire and drove it to a parts store to read the code. Engine was fully warm by the time I reached the parts store. I did not power off the engine, plugged in the tester and read the code which was a misfire on cylinder 2. I cleared the code and within 2-3 seconds it logged the misfire on cylinder #2 again. Cleared the code several times and it kept reporting misfire on cylinder 2. You could also feel the misfire happening. Turned engine off, started it right back up, like before no misfire, cleared the code and it no longer reported a misfire.
•This just started intermittently happening. This morning it happened again, I drove it for about 5 min, engine was about 75% it’s normal operating temperature, powered it off/on, still had the misfire. Once engine temp reached normal temp (about 9 min), I turned off engine, started it back and like before problem was gone.
What is causing this to happen?
The check-engine light on my 2006 Toyota Corolla came on a couple of weeks ago after I started the car on a 7-degree F morning. Code was P-0171. Mechanic cleaned the MAF and the light went off. Light stayed off 'til I started the car on another 7-degree F morning. Mechanic said that the MAF didn't look dirty, and the readings didn't change after cleaning. No vacuum leaks. O2 sensors responding normally. What's going on? I travel a lot in this car, so I don't want to damage the car by ignoring the check-engine light.
View 1 RepliesMy 1995 Toyota Corolla DX with 180,000 miles is missing. It was missing intermittently, especially when idling and cold, and especially when I drove short distances to run errands and then restarted it. It got to the point where it was missing even when warm, and would stall out when idling (always restarted eventually). I took it in to a shop, and they replaced the spark plugs, spark plug wires, ignition coil (which was fried) and the distributor cap and rotor.
All of the low speed and idling problems are solved. However, it now misses intermittently when I drive on the highway, only when giving the car gas at speeds of 45 mph or higher. It doesn't miss when I am coasting, regardless of speed, and doesn't miss at all under 45 mph. This car drives too well under 45 to be headed to the scrap yard yet.
have an 2009 Toyota Corolla 62K miles. If the car sits out 8 hours or more in VERY COLD (zero degrees) weather makes a 1-2 second clashing/sparking noise the split second after turning the ignition on but before engine starts. I tried to attach video/audio. The car starts and runs fine. isn't a ticking or knocking or tapping noise assoc. with bad engine. It isn't squealing noise assoc. w/ serpentine belt. I've been waiting for it to get cold enough to leave overnight at Toyota dealer. I keep wondering if it isn't related to the botched oil changed at the Toyota dealer a couple yrs ago when they forgot the oil & I ran car about 30-60 seconds. At the time, they said all was okay and did compression test (Cyl 1=178psi, #2=175 #3=180 #4=178) all within the normal specs 145-189. I got a 2nd opinion at another Toyota dealer at time who removed valve cover and inspected cam caps and scoped cylinder walls and said all was okay and compression good. No mechanical problems- uses no oil, check engine light not on, etc. What noise is and why just when very cold and car sits out long time?
View 18 Replies95 corolla 277k miles. 4 hours into a long trip went over a huge bump and the shocks seemed to "bottom out". Like they compressed as much as they could. Pulled over half hour later for a break.
After that drove rest of way home. Car started shuddering and slowing down going up a hill. Had to floor it just to get it to be 60 mph. Hill wasn't that steep. Seemed to do ok on flat parts.
Was a little low on gas so pulled over to fill up. Noticed car idled very roughly felt like it was going to stall while pulling into gas station.
Gas cap was a little loose. Didn't hear the whoosh of the vacuum you usually hear when undoing the gas cap either.
After that it seemed to be a little better going up hills. I drove it home, and a day later drove it and it seemed to go up hills ok.
It still idles very weirdly, roughly and like it's about to stall. While driving it sounds ok.
I was thinking fuel pump but now i'm not sure. It might be related to the gas cap, maybe the bump loosened it.
so I noticed that my muffler started to turn brownish on my 2014 Corolla. I am worried because my car only has only 480 miles. Is this normal, should I be worried?
View 19 RepliesWhen i turn on the ac its cold for about a few mins and after it just starts to blow air and its not cold anymore, also it smells funny when i turn the fan on for a few seconds.
View 2 RepliesWent to a road course for the first time on Sunday. After about 10 laps the car started smoking bad from the exhaust. The smoke was thick and white. There were professional drivers present (driving school) as well as a lexus service manager there looking at the car after the run. The smoke was thick but without that sweet smell of coolant. This was the hardest the car has ever been run but also maintained normal oil and coolant temperatures. After a bit of resting the smoke cleared up and never came back, my drive home was 2 hours long and car still seems ok. Engine sounds good, oil very clean, what could it have been? I have no cats so its going to be more obvious than normal.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Toyota Sienna xle that started running rough when the weather turned cold. When started, the car idles very high and will not shift properly until it was been running for around 5 minutes. After that it will run well for about 10-15 minutes and then begin to run rough or poorly. The problem is very noticeable at low speeds and when stopped. It never actually kills, but it feels like it is going to. At high speeds it is less noticeable but occasionally you will feel it jerk or chug like the transmission is slipping or a belt or something.
I took it to a mechanic who checked the codes and found that the ignition coils were supposedly bad. I say supposedly because they replace three of the ignition coils and the problem still persists. I then took it back to the mechanic who then told me it was the oxygen sensor. The o2 sensor was replaced and the problem is still there with no noticeable improvement. I again to it back to the mechanic who tells me that they scratching their heads.
I have done some looking around on the internet and have found some discussions that seem to have some promising leeds and actually last weeks car talk show had a caller who described a similar problem. The guys told him it could be a oxygen sensor but they thought a better possibility would be EGR valve or a vacuum leak. Not sure if this sienna has an EGR, but I plan to suggest looking into it to the mechanic. Also, I found some discussions talking about the idle control valve and the engine control module.
I parked my 2003 f150 about 8wks ago, and at that time the blower had been running only on high then not at all, then only on high again.
As I need it to pull the boat up north next week, I purchased and changed the resistor. When I started it up the blower motor wouldn't run and eventually it started to smoke, so I pulled the wire connector to the motor.
Where I can find a procedure for motor testing, and removal as I think this is probably where I'm headed with this. There seems to be utube videos on everything else but not this. I may just have to go out and purchase a Hains or Chilton manual but I'm Scottish and always look for the free route first.
My '06 Ford F-150, 4.6 V8 is smoking when I start it up occasionally. The smoke color is blue. The only mod is flowmaster exhaust. Bad injector, sticking valve......
Where would you start? I am all for supporting a local mechanic but financially I do not have the money to gamble. Once I can pinpoint the problem I will take it to them to fix.
I just bought a 2002 echo recently and it started smoking blue. The car has 135000 miles which seems low to me to be blowing smoke so soon. I grew up around cars since my dad was a mechanic so I checked the compression on a cold engine. Cyl. 1 was 117psi, cyl. 2 was 134, cyl.3 was 127 and cyl. 4 was 117. I realize they are low but the car is blowing a pretty good amount. The car drives pretty good overall and seems to have power, i drove it on the freeway a few times and did 80mph fairly easy. I was wondering if this could possibly be valve stem seals gone bad? I will check the pcv valve as well. I really like the car and have read a lot of good things about the echo.
View 14 Replies2007 f350. About 2 weeks ago my truck started smoking really bad, and I took it in to have it diagnosed. It was 4 injectors that were bad, so I had them replace all 8 and also install a bullet proof oil cooler. From the moment I got the truck back, it did not seem to idle as well as it used to, and over the next week, it began to blow a good amount of white smoke and run very rough.
But the weird thing is when I took it back to the shop to have it diagnosed, the minute I pulled into their driveway, it ran perfect, and they were unable to pull up anything. The next morning, I started my truck for work and as I drove down the street, the truck ran extremely rough, and seemed to be running in 2 cylinders. I shut the truck down, restarted it and it ran a little better, as I limped it back to the shop.
2002 Diamante, Passenger side seatbelt became stuck and started smoking after the door was "slammed" shut. Need to know if this can be fixed or am I going to have to ride in the back seat?
View 1 RepliesSo I am trying to figure out where my AC system has failed in my car.
The back story is: While I was on a road trip down to southern Utah in the middle of summer (you know, painfully hot desert area), my whole AC system felt the need to blow up in my face.
It all started when I pulled over for gas and noticed a giant puddle of water under my car. Then when I got back on the road, the system was still blowing air, but it was no longer cold (yes the AC was still on). A few miles later the fan stopped blowing all together. Then windows down, riding through the desert, a passerby shouted through my window that my car was smoking, I pulled over to find my AC compressor belt lying on the road under my car.
Now I would love to repair it but I don't know where to start. I have replaced the fuses to no avail (at least the interior ones labeled "blower", but they also seemed to be intact upon a visual inspection).
I have noticed that while on the highway the vents will produce air (not blow it though) of the temperature the gauge is set on (I assume that matters). Also, the AC button under the vent control (air speed) does not appear to light up.
I just recently purchased a 2009 Corolla S Automatic. It still runs fine, but my concern is that when I start it that there is a squeaking or screeching like a belt is not tight enough or is too tight in the engine somewhere. That and there is a rattling that sounds like a bunch of marbles bouncing off of metal or as if there is something loose that is metal and just making vibrations from the way the engine is running. It drives fine, I have no other problems. I still have amazing gas mileage and everything else. What could be the issue and could I fix it from home?
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