I bought the car a month ago and went to pick it up today and there was 3 inches of water in the left front and rear footwells. I drained the water from there but can still hear it sloshing around in the quarters. Probably the drain holes are clogged. Where are they and how do I get to them? Do the rocker moldings have to be removed?
View 2 RepliesIn the photos here you can see there are quarter sized holes in the passenger door and some rust damage underneath the car. To me it doesn't look like that much, but the previous owner did a bunch of work himself - maybe that's why. To remedy all rust what do you think the price would be? Me welding is currently not an option and I have zero experience doing work on cars.
View 7 RepliesAfter reading about water in body panels in another post I looked on my rear door and saw what looks like drain holes, one on each side of the inside lip, but they are covered by a sticker and have been painted over. Was this something that was just never removed or are they supposed to be covered.
View 3 RepliesI've noticed a lot of small leaves going down the small vented drain holes at the bottom of the rear window but cant find a way to remove the cover and clean out what must be years of accumulated rubbish .
View 3 RepliesI got a 95 convertible that the passenger quarter window has decided to come off the tracks! got it pullled out and 2 of the 3 plastic roller guides have decided to split in 2! can you believe that? after 16 years they broke (toyota quality just isn't the same!) where i can find the new roller guides?
View 1 RepliesI am finding that after a heavy rain that water is running out of the bottom of all four door drain holes when I open them.I have not noticed this on any other of my previous vehicles.Is it "a" good that they are draining well, or "b" bad that water is getting in in the first place?
View 11 RepliesMy son bought a 1996 Toyota Corolla as his first car. There is rust developing on the driver's side door panels, mostly around where the decorative strip is. I am wondering what we can do to stem the tide, so to speak. Hopefully, something simple can be done. We can worry about patching the small areas that have already corroded, but he would like to not have it get worse.
View 12 Replies1990 Celica GT ... I will be completely replacing the transmission, and the flywheel while adding a new stage 2 clutch kit. Also replacing the shocks all around.
Okay now to the problem, I don't know exactly where or what fluid or fluids it is yet. it seems to be leaking oil from the oil pan drain bolt also it seems to be leaking coolant too from somewhere behind the oil catch pan area. I did not change the water pump when the timing belt snapped but it looks like some water corrosion on the pump itself. are these common problems and what will solve these leaks?
Where is the coolant drain plug on the engine block? Have the haynes book and still can't figure it out.
View 3 RepliesUp until yesterday, my 1995 Convertible GT ran perfect. The power steering pump has a leak and the foamed fluid overflowed. I replaced the fluid and cleaned out the engine bay where the spill was. I used a little soap, and rinsed it with some water.
Since then, the battery drains in about 60 seconds. I can shut off, and immediately start the car back up. If the car sits for more than a minute, I just get clicking. Starter doesn't even turn over. I can jump the car to get her running.
I've taken all the wire harnesses and electrical connections apart on that side of the engine bay and cleaned them with electrical contact/wire cleaner. I removed the fender, the lights, the bumper, etc to clean. The battery, alternator, and charging security pass a check at AutoZone. I can run and drive the car without throwing of codes, etc. As soon as I turn off the engine for longer than a minute, it doesn't start.
Not sure what else I can do. I was in the middle of a sale, and now thats gone pending me solving this annoying and time-consuming issue. If I don't figure this out in a few days, I'm calling a yard. I really don't have time to deal with a car I'm trying to get rid of.
My 1996 Volvo 850 has a relatively new battery but every few weeks it will go completely dead. A typical situation is this: the car will start fine and we will go to a restaurant but when we come out the battery is so dead that the digital clock is off and the radio pre-sets are lost. The shop has done a lot of diagnostics and replaced the alternator but the problem persists. They have determined that the battery is fine and the current drain when the car is off is within normal specs. And, yes, they have disconnected the light in the glove box. They have done everything they can think of but because the problem is so intermittent it is proving impossible to track down.
View 2 Replies1 have a 1996 Volvo 850 GLT wagon with the following problems and issues. Should I pay to get the major issues fixed, or use the money towards another car? This is my second car, it gets driven on a once-a-week basis, and I would probably replace it with another 10-year younger Volvo wagon or similar. * Check Engine light with "incorrect ratio" code - my mechanic suggests replacing the speed sensor, flushing the transmission, and hoping for the best; will cost at least a couple hundred dollars. Web searches turn up PnP replacement might fix this.
slow battery drain - replaced the battery harness as per Volvo's instructions, but there is still a slow battery drain that kills the battery in a few days, which I cannot diagnose. If I want to use the car, I make sure the battery is charged the night before. Unknown cost to permanently fix - solar panel in the front window?
odometer broken - the odometer broke at 125 K, the car has approximately 130 K miles on it. Mechanic estimates fixing the odometer is $500. due for a new timing belt - Last timing belt change was at 52 K; mechanic estimates $800 after doing "everything they like to do at this time, like the water pump." various and sundry broken interior cosmetic panels Should I do the repairs and hope to get to 160 K miles, or put the money towards a new car?
I recently purchased a 1996 Celica. The car looks amazing and drives well. On top of it's reliability, the vehicle is an absolute blast to drive!!!!! However, it seems to be burning oil. I was told to switch from 5w-30 oil to 10w. A thicker weight would work.
View 16 Repliesrecently purchased a toyota celica gt (96), a couple days ago i went to unlock the doors with the fob, and nothing happened. I then unlocked the doors with the key and the alarm went off! i managed to drive my car home, but the alarm was still going. I was told to disconnect the positive connection on the battery to stop the alarm going off through the night. the next day i replaced the battery in the fob, but every time i reconnect the positive the alarm goes off!
View 4 RepliesThis has the 2.2 engine with the ignition coil mounted on the firewall, not inside the distributor.
Original not start condition seemed to be fuel related because it tried to sputter on time after it died in the middle of the intersection.
Changed fuel filter, primed and no start.
Checked for spark at the plug wire using a solid wire and touching a ground - no spark on any cylinder.
Tested for voltage at the center distributor cap - have 12 volts - replaced distributor - no spark
Replace ignition coil and ignitor - no spark
The wires all test with the right ohms so I'm not sure what is left to replace.
I have a well maintained '96 Celica 2.2 and for the first time in years it started acting up on the way home last night.
I got on the highway and was cruising at 65 and it started hesitating and popping and finally forced me to the side of the road. I was then able to start off again and reached about 60 all the way home but it was hesitating and not a smooth ride at all.
When I got to a red light at the off ramp, it died. I started it and it drove rough on local streets until I got home.
This morning I started it and it fired right up but then died immediately. Did that twice. Just tried again and it won't even start but just pops and makes noises like it's out of gas, even though 1/2 full.
Check Engine Light is on. I tried jumping E1 and TE1 but nothing happened.
I have a 1996 Celica GT and I am having problems with the service reminder indicators within the instrument cluster panel. I recently had the car inspected in Pennsylvania and I was told that some of the service indicators were not working so they failed the cars inspection. Some of these indicators should illuminate when the ignition key is turned to the ACC or ON position(s). Currently, the only indicators that light up when the key is turned to the ACC or ON position are the SRS Airbag Warning light that stays lit for about six seconds, the BRAKE indicator, the low oil pressure warning light and the bing bing bing sound that my seatbelt is not fastened with no indicator light showing up in the instrument cluster. The CHECK ENGINE and the ABS lights do not light up either.
I removed the instrument cluster and found the CHECK ENGINE bulb was blown so I replaced the bulb and reinstalled the instrument cluster. Per the manual, I checked the 7.5 amp fuse labeled 'instrument panel lights' in position #22 per the diagram and found the fuse to be in good working order. I also checked the 10 amp fuse labeled 'gauges and meters' in position #32 per the diagram and found the fuse to be in good working order. No change to the status of the lights as described above. My daughter did assure me that these lights worked at some point over the past year (she was away at college).
I just recently replaced the timing belt and water pump on my toyota celica 1996 st205 (5sfe engine) and now my car is overheating after roughly a 30-60 minute drive. the radiator seems to be overheating and boiling/forcing the reservoir tank out through the overflow hole. when refilling the coolant i had to use some water as the 5L bottle of 50/50 coolant i had wasn't enough. I cant see any leaks, i did see bubbles in the radiator with the cap off and engine running however i think that may be due to the reservoir tank being empty. I had never had this problem prior to the timing belt/water pump change.
View 4 RepliesI recently was given a 96 Toyota Celica 1.8L Auto 7AFE and I have been trying to troubleshoot some problems.
It started a year ago when my brother drove it to work and then after work it would not start back up. It sat for a while and now its mine. Problem is I was not getting any spark at all a while back when we tested it. I thought maybe the distributor. The other day it happened to just randomly start after a year of not starting. It made a small pop in the cylinder then boom ran just great until it warmed up and proceeded to shut down, would not restart. Checked the spark and it was very weak (yellow) and just seemed to be a slow spark, not firing as fast as I would think. Today I put a new distributor with a new cap and rotor in and boom she fires up immediately. Let it warm up fully shut it down, restarts fine, shut it down again and now it will not restart. Last time I tested fuel was fine, seems as if I am getting an intermittent spark and usually starts when it cools off.
Not sure what to do now, where to look. The wires seem ok with no corrosion but I have only worked on the 2.2L and I am lost!
I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
This is the second celica i have owned that has the speedo needle stick randomly after driving for a while. registers correct speed if i tap cover, but that's not great when driving down the motorway. didn't rectify first one so don't know what the problem is.
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