One side of my rear defogger wire has detached from the window. It detached right at the metal clip and window. I will not solder (due to possibly breaking the window). Have tried all kind of epoxies & bonding agents - will not work.
View 2 RepliesI am not sure, since now, that my RWD has ever worked, the fuse is fine, the light comes on, the lines on the window are not broken. No defogging. Connections seem good everywhere.
View 5 RepliesI'm very ignorant about car repair, so I attached a couple pictures showing a "clip" (the gray headed wire at the bottom of the picture that is not attached to anything). My car recently died, I suspect due to a drained battery, and I hadn't noticed this before.
Further info: it's a 92 Chevy Lumina and the battery is underneath the area pictured. I've tried to jump it, but can only get it to crank a couple times before failing.
Rear window was replaced now the defogger does not work.
View 1 RepliesA couple of days ago I noticed that one of the elements in the upper rear window defogger/defroster isn't working. It's the fifth one from the bottom I believe. All the other elements on the top and bottom seem to be working correctly. Is there a way to correct this without taking it to the dealer?
View 2 RepliesMy rear window defogger has stopped working. The owners manual, page 316, has the 3 fuse box locations and it says there is a 40 amp fuse in location #2 in fuse box under dash (says there is a 30 amp in location #1 for power windows). When I popped the cover off the fuse box and looked - there are NO fuses greater that 25 amps anywhere. Windows work fine. in addition - none of the actual fuse numbers line up with what the manual says or with what the inside of the fuse box cover says.
View 8 RepliesMy vehicle does not lock the rear window glass on the left gate. All other locks work fine. The rear lift gate glass just slams and nothing.
View 2 RepliesJust had the driver window glass replaced. This is the second repair as the first guy just glued it and I think he partially detached the outer window seal. Is there a way to glue it back or does it need to be replaced? Is that something I could do. Now that I've seen videos, I could have replaced the window glass myself.....
View 5 RepliesI have a 1977 GMC Suburban with a power rear window in the tailgate.It has become very hard for the motor to open or close the window and it makes a screeching sound when being operated. Does the interior window frame need lubricated or is it rubbing on something?. I know there is a access plate on the inside of the tailgate but the window denies access to the inside of the tailgate. Is there a way to open the window when the tailgate is open so I can access the interior of the tailgate?.
View 4 RepliesNoticed this during a recent trip halfway cross country. It did POUR for part of the trip, but I didn't notice the wetness until a few days after we were at our destination. Further, none of our luggage etc was wet, so I don't suspect a leak in the rubber gaskets along the window. We did have the A/C running constantly while in 90° heat. I checked underneath the car; saw no obvious signs of rust on the underside. I did see a hose and some type of contraption on the passenger side rear, above the muffler - it was dripping water. Is this part of the A/C system, and could it be the cause of dampness in the carpet?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 suburban . I have a humming noise coming from the rear . It starts at 45mph and then goes away at 47mph. I hear it again between 60-65 mph then goes away . This is a faint sound . When pulling a trailer the sound is much more noticeable and more constant from 55-64 mph . When I let off the gas the sound is still there and fades as the truck slows. Am I dealing with a bad tire ( I plan to rotate them to see if that is the cause ) or a wheel or axle bearing ? To note I replaced the front wheel hub/bearings just about a year ago .
View 2 RepliesHave a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban. The voltmeter reading varies from 13 to 16 volts, no obvious reasons for changes in the reading. Chevy says there are a number of different inputs that determine what the reading should be, such as battery temp, etc. On older cars you could use the voltage to determine when something was going wrong with the electrical system. Other that a complete loss of alternator output, can you use the reading to diagnose electrical problems, such as a bad or dying battery?
View 4 RepliesI replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
View 6 RepliesI was recently in a fender bender where I was rear ended. My rear bumper cover became detached on the left side and the spoiler underneath it (left side and center parts) became detached. I lost several pieces of hardware in the crash. I was able to clip the bumper cover back in on the left side, and aside from that, I don't believe any bolts, screws, etc. are missing for the bumper cover. However, the spoiler seems to be missing about half of its hardware.
View 3 RepliesMy '07 Suburban with 55k miles has a "slip and grab" feeling coming from the rear end (when leaving a dead stop, rounding corners at low speed, and coming to a stop). Almost feels like a bad universal joint. The guy at the local axle shop tells me that this is common among GM trucks. He said that he has never seen one fail, but when I get sick of the feeling to have the rear end replaced. He said that it has something to due with the traction control "governors". I will be taking the vehicle to a GM dealership (since this is drivetrain related and under the 100k warranty. As I would like to be as specific as possible when talking to the dealership.
View 14 RepliesMy rear defogger stopped working this week. Just checked the fuse and that's still good. Where should i go from here?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy Malibu. The passenger rear power window wont go up or down. Other windows are fine. I push the buttons from the rear door and the main control from the drivers door and nothing happens. I don't hear the window motor or anything going on while I push those buttons. I opened up the door panel and window regulator and motor seem fine. Connectors seem fine also.
View 4 RepliesWe've just had our first few autumn days where a heavy dew settles on the car when the temperature drops in the evenings. When I left the restaurant last night, the moisture was so thick on the outside of the glass I couldn't see out the rear window. I turned on the rear defogger and it was soooo slow. It took five minutes before you could start to see the wire lines in the glass appear and 20 minutes to clear. None of my other Lexus' have been this slow to clear the rear window.
View 7 RepliesI have a 1997 Chevy Blazer. I have had issues where I could not start my truck and determined it could be the battery. After checking alternator, battery, and starter I was told that all were good. Cleaning terminals did not fix problem. I got a new battery. So I have determined that a power drain is going on somewhere. I have now found that when I shift the transmission from drive to reverse or vice versa that the rear hatch window comes open. As I shift the gear I hear the latch popping behind me. Now I have determined that there is a short somewhere and this could be the cause of my power drain. What I need to know is where to start looking for the default and how to fix my problem.
View 3 RepliesI tinted my Prius v's rear hatch window with SunTek CXP film yesterday morning. When driving at night with the tinted window, there are streaks of glare along rear defogger lines caused by the headlights behind me.
For v owner with tinted hatch window.