Chevrolet - Suburban :: 2007 - Voltmeter Reading Varies From 13 To 16 Volts?
Feb 1, 2013
Have a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban. The voltmeter reading varies from 13 to 16 volts, no obvious reasons for changes in the reading. Chevy says there are a number of different inputs that determine what the reading should be, such as battery temp, etc. On older cars you could use the voltage to determine when something was going wrong with the electrical system. Other that a complete loss of alternator output, can you use the reading to diagnose electrical problems, such as a bad or dying battery?
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I have 2004 w12 phaeton and when i start car voltmeter shows like 13 volts and when it takes like 20 seconds to reach 13.8 and if I push on gas little bit it goes right on 13.8 or 13.9
So my question how many volts should be if all system works fine? and how long after start should take to go 13.8? Could be that my batteries going bad?
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So I went to Target with my wife yesterday and after about 30 mins of shopping, left the store and tried to start the Ex and will not start. The engine tuned over slowly like the battery did not have enough juice to start the truck. So I had it jumped and it started right up. So I went to autozone and the battery and alternator tested and both and in good working order.
Today it happened again. After stopping at a fast food joint to grab a quick bite, same thing it did not start. But before I started the truck the voltmeter showed about 12.6 volts. When I tried to start it, the engine turned really slow and did not start. By that time the volt meter showed about only 6.5 volts. So trying to start it just drained the battery. I had it jumped and it started right up. Went back to Autozone and had the battery and alternator tested and both are fine.
Once the truck is running, the volt meter shows ~13.5 - 14 v volts. No other electrical issues while driving. What's happening? What should I check for? The battery is about 3 years old. I will charge the battery over night and see what happens tomorrow.
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One side of my rear defogger wire has detached from the window. It detached right at the metal clip and window. I will not solder (due to possibly breaking the window). Have tried all kind of epoxies & bonding agents - will not work.
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I replaced the oil pressure switch on an '07 Suburban 5.3L because the oil pressure was showing low once the engine warmed up. That did nothing, then I found out about that little filter/screen under the sensor. I intended to remove and clean the filter then reinstall it. While I was pulling it out, I dropped it back behind the engine and couldn't find it. I checked online and found a few people in other forums that said to just remove the screen as a "fix", so I left it out and put the sensor back in, just to get the vehicle drivable. It started right up and ran fine for me, parked it, and a after sitting for a few hours it started popping while driving with the SES light flashing on the drive home.
Code P0300 was set, no cylinder specific misfire codes were present. I checked the misfire data and cylinder #6 showed tens of thousands of misfires, #5 showed several hundred, but I think it was just picking them up from #6 since #5 is right after #6 in the firing order. I disabled each injector with a scan tool, all changed the idle except #6, it did absolutely nothing. #6 fuel injector had good pulse to it, I connected a fuel pressure gauge and put power/ground to injectors #6 and #4, both dropped the same fuel pressure. I did the "cylinder deactivation" test on the scan tool for the four cylinders that have it, they all did the exact same thing - the engine bogged way down for a couple seconds and then died. Is that normal? I can't say I've ever seen a V8 engine die before when running on 6 or 7 cylinders. I checked compression on cylinder #6, it showed very low, almost zero, but I tried it a few times and it would show just a little compression at times... valves staying shut? I'm thinking when I opened the pressure relief valve on the gauge and the piston was near the bottom of the cylinder may be when it showed some compression. I also switched the coil/wire/plug from #6 to other cylinders and the miss did not follow.
Could having that screen out cause this problem? Having the engine die when deactivating the cylinders makes me wonder if maybe it's commanding all four at the same time, although the test shows each cylinder being controlled separately. Using a MODIS, not a TechII. I just got done putting in a new filter/screen to see if it would make any difference, and of course it didn't.
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I am writing about a 2007 Chevrolet Suburban and for the last few months, have noticed that the car is losing oil. I have to put in a quart of oil about every 3 weeks. I have brought it in to the mechanics and asked them to look for a leak and they can't find anything. They have changed the oil, replaced the evap hose, but the car is still losing oil. Just did a lot of driving this last weekend and the oil went all the way down, to the point of when I started it this morning, I got a huge amount of blue smoke out the back. When I took off the cap to add oil, I noticed this mustard yellow, foamy stuff on the lid. Never saw that before.
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I purchased a 90 Suburban and the fuel gauge reads low. I then changed the fuel pump and sending unit. The fuel gauge still reads low.
Then I noticed that all the gauges read low. Temp is low. Oil press is only a quarter up, the ammeter reads zero.
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I have a 2001 Suburban, 5.3 liter, 2 wheel drive, automatic transmission. I often take 250 to 600 mile trips and track my MPG between gas fill ups/rest stops about every 2-3 hours. I use cruise control and maintain the same speed as much as possible on each trip.What happens is my MPG varies from 16.8 to an all time best, 24 MPG between fill ups. What could be causing this?
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As title really, it's a 1997 K2500 Suburban 4x4 auto 454. I haven't used the sub for a while but got in it the other day and it fired up all fine and I then looked to see what fuel I had left only to see the needle right over to full. Well I know it is nearly empty and I've never had the guts to fill the thing or should that be had the funds to fill it to the top, so know it is wrong. I got under the truck and unclipped the rear most wiring connector just infront of the fuel tank but the gauge still reads full. I suspect either the gauge is faulty (so is there anyway of checking) or the sender in the tank or wires in the tank have shorted (again anyway of testing without removing the tank).
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When I start the car the fuel gauge sometimes goes past F and interferes with the water temp gauge. Also noticed recently that the RPM is not reading correctly.
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If sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
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My 2003 Suburban shakes when I drive over 70 mph. I don't know if the tires need realignment?
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I have a 1990 suburban that has had a rebuilt x-mission about 50,000 miles ago. At this time when I drive there is a hesitation, split second, when running on flat road. It happens when going up a hill, too.My mechanic said change the: plug wires, then the plugs and rotor. No difference.
I think the thing is dropping out of OD for a split second and then going back in. If I drive in 3rd, I don't think it is happening. Isn't there a relay or solenoid that controls this function?
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I have an '05 Suburban with starting issues. When it's cold out (below 40 degrees) and you turn the key, all accessories come on but truck will not crank. It then seems like the power just cuts off.......dash lights go out but gauges are fixed in place and a couple of seconds later, I hear a strange buzzing noise from the dash area behind the radio and the gauges will then go to power off position. Then if I try to start it, there is nothing, no lights on dash, no starter engaging, no clicking of the relays, nothing. I tried, on a hunch to disconnect the ground lead from the battery. Had it off for 10 minutes or so, put the cable back on, tightened it down (wasn't loose to begin with) and it started right up first try in 20 degree weather. I had previously had the battery and alt checked and both were good.
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2007 Chevy Suburban, 65K milesLet me start by saying I took this into to the dealer and they found nothing!
When I accelerate, I get a "flutter" in the engine. The best description of this flutter is that the RPMs go down about 200 or 300. I think it feels like it is sluggish when it accelerates. It is most obvious during the 35 - 60 MPH range, but you also see it when cruising at 70 MPH.
I tried adding some fuel treatment and ran some 93 octane through it to see if it was the fuel injectors, with no change in the behavior. No error messages or engine light is on. Regular oil changes and services (60K service, every 3K miles for oil change). Driving behavior has changed since I bought a Prius 3 months ago. It used to be driven 40 miles / day (+ long trips) and now is driven about 40 miles / week (+ long trips).
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1995 Chevy Suburban, currently at 150,000 miles, Prior owner had transmission rebuilt prior to 100,000 miles. While towing my 18ft camper trailer on a recent trip every time I started off from a stop I had to really push on the gas to get going. At first I though the emergency brake was on, or I had a flat tire. I then noticed the automatic transmission was not shifting when I had it in D. Checked the transmission fluid and it was full. The transmission seems to be stuck in 3rd gear. When I move the shifter to 2 it will shift down. Reverse is also still working. Am I in for a costly repair?
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I have random power drop off (best description is a loss then a surge or something like a skip) when driving over 60 mph. If I let off the gas or floor it the problem goes away temporarily. No mechanic has been able to figure it out. Chevy dealer just says "we don't have any codes".
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2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.
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I have a 2004 suburban with approximately 125k miles on it, it is nominally my wife's car.
Recently it seems to not be able to access the last 1/4 tank of fuel. A couple of weeks ago my wife (who likes to run it down to the dregs) got it sub 1/4 tank, and it cranked but didn't start...put in 2 gallons from a can, started right up...took it to a gas station, filled it up (less the approximate 1/4 tank of fuel).
So, fuel pump? Pickup clogged? If so, what does it take to replace/repair...
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I have a 03 Suburban LT with the 150,000 miles. and it misses out at 50mph or higher. I thought it was the transmission, and the tranny guy confirmed a new transmission was needed, but said he thought the missing was maybe the coils. the local Chevy dealer did the diagnostic, and determined the coils, plugs, and plug wires were all good. I 've replaced the oxygen sensor as well. The service manager said to keep driving it until the Check Engine light comes on. That concerns me, but hey what do I know. The mileage hasn't dropped off, and it runs fine the rest of the time.
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86 Diesel Suburban
Lately the voltage gauge sometimes starts to wander upwards toward the 18v red zone. When it does it wanders up and down a lot, but mostly well above the center 13v. Sometimes I left of the throttle a little and it goes back and stays at normal, and sometimes it doesn't and bounces up again as soon as I press the throttle. Doesn't happen on every drive, just sometimes.
I thought it unlikely this was a bad voltage regulator, since it's a pretty new alternator, 2 years tops. So I thought I'd see what other possible causes could be. (Why do they make the voltage regulator internal to the alternator now anyways, since they seem to go bad more often than the core? Can I just add an external regulator like the older trucks had?)
I've heard over-voltage can ironically sometimes be caused by a short, since the regulator dumps more voltage into the field coils because the main coils are showing they aren't delivering enough current (because it's all being soaked up by the short), resulting in an overall over voltage as the alternator tries to compensate for the voltage drop of the short.
How do I tell if this is the cause of the overvoltage or if it's something else instead? If it is a short, where could it be? I'm assuming it must be somewhere weird, because almost any normal place I could think of for a short would simply blow a fuse. Or is there such a thing as a partial short-- high enough resistance to not blow a fuse, but low enough to drive the alternator nuts?
Could it be related to overheating? I initially thought that was a possibility, because it began around the time the weather turned warm here, but on any given day it seems pretty random and not tied strongly to excessive speed or going up hills.
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