Chrysler :: 1999 Begins To Overheat After Driving 3 Miles
Mar 6, 2013
I have a 1999 Chrysler 300M. It is overheating in a strange way. After driving 3 miles it begins to overheat. Sometimes it will overheat, then quickly drop back down to normal temperature, but then overheat again. When going up any grade it definitely overheats.
I have had the car in for repair at two mechanics. Both have GIVEN UP on fixing the problem. Here is what they tried: Replacing both radiator fans, replacing the thermostat, replacing the water pump. The car is also losing coolant. None of these repairs has solved the problem what-so-ever. It's a mystery. And I keep being deeper in the hole with money What could it be?? Someone said it could be the temperature sensor. Is that true?
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We have base line 2004 Cavalier coupe that has about 130K miles on it. It is currently doing two things: When the car is idling the engine begins to overheat, and the air conditioning goes awol. As soon as forward movement begins again, the temperature goes back to acceptable levels, and the air conditioning becomes cool again. Since these problems occur simultaneously, it leads me to think they might be related.
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I have a 1998 Chrysler Concorde with 67,600K. The engine is starting to stall shortly after driving a few miles with no warning other than the engine light coming on. I can put the car in neutral and it will start right up and run just fine. The engine temperature is fine.
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Been a while... Problem today while towing... I was in some hilly areas but nothing too .. I was pulling an unloaded trailer and experienced a significant loss of power and overheating. Engine started getting hot (almost to red) and then the transmission came up in temp. Made it to a rest area and all cooled down within 2 to 5 mins... but the strange thing about the power uphill is that it is happening at slow speeds as well... boost seems normal. Recently did the injector cups, so the thermostat is new (motorcraft), coolant is new, and put new o-rings on injectors.
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4.7 ltr 2WD starts fine and while cold runs fine. Seems after an hour or so of driving the engine begins to skip. Will idle just fine but when giving gas the engine skips and refuses to accelerate beyond 1700 rpm. Had the cats changed 6 months ago. someone suggested the MAF sensor might be bad....so cleaned it. Still runs rough. I suspect it might be a sensor. If I leave the car overnight ...runs fine in the morning. Engine gets hot....begins to skip and cannot accelerate unless going down hill. Vehicle skips especially when under a load.
Does the MAF sensor have anything to do with this? Maybe it could be the Engine Coolant Sensor? Not sure what to do. Don't want to throw parts at it without some idea what is causing it. BTW...no check engine lights at all. And nothing showed up on the computer when it was running rough. Tech told me cylinders 2 and 4 were not firing properly but immediately after cleaning the MAF sensor the car ran fine for 4 minutes then problem returned.
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My husband and I bought a used 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe that I like very much. However it has a serious and frightening problem. When driving in the rain, the steering wheel begins to jerk rapidly back and forth. The steering is responsive and smooth at all other times. We did not notice the problem immediately because we have had such a bad drought here that it has not rained much since we have owned the car. In fact, we had owned the car 3 months before we first encountered the problem. We took it to the dealer and they could find nothing wrong, but it wasn't raining. We returned to the service department on a rare day when it was actually raining and still the dealer could find nothing wrong. It seems that uneven or bumpy pavement makes it worse. The tires were in good shape when we got the car and are now getting to the point of needing to be replaced but we can't keep the car as we feel it is unsafe in the rain.
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New thermostat, radiator, radiator cap, water pump, hoses, viscous fan. No freeway driving, just surface streets. Go down a hill to work, come back up the hill and overheat. When car gets hot, can turn on heater, dump excess heat, and temp gauge moves back towards center. Oil is clean. Coolant is clean, no oily residue.
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I started having problems with my '99 Cirrus last month, it would randomly stall while driving or while in idle. With no check engine light or any other tell tale signs of a problem. I'm not entirely knowledgeable about how the entirety of the car's systems function, though I new I should check my fuel system. I wasn't getting any fuel to the engine whatsoever, so I replaced the fuel filter because when I got it off and looked at it it was clear it was bad. Then I put it all back together to try and run it and it continued to stall.
Thinking it must be the fuel pump at this point I dropped the fuel tank and replaced it. It ran for about 35 miles before the same problem started happening again. So I checked all the fuses, and relays and just to be safe replaced all the relays related to the fuel pump, and fuel system and i even replaced the auto shutdown relay. The car continued to have the same problem, so I did some research and found out it could be a dirty throttle body so I cleaned it even though it wasn't that dirty, and checked my air filter for how clean it was and it was clean. The car still continues to stall in idle and while driving.
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We will start with the history. I recently purchased this car knowing of a long list of issues which have been worked out for the most part. The related piece would be random misfires which I believed were based on a faulty Ignition Coil (common on this 420a [2.0 NA] motor.) I have replace the coil but the issue persists.
Now what is happening is after about 20-30 minutes (or miles) of driving the fuel pump will overheat and the car will stall. I can get it to turn back over most of the time but it will stall out if attempting to drive. I have to leave it sitting for about 15 minutes to be able to move it.
What codes am I getting from the CEL? Nothing. (No CEL)What have I tried so far? - Fuel pump has been replaced- Fuel filter has been replaced- Fuel lines have been verified (no noticeable leaks, unwanted bends, pinches or breaks)(I also verified that this is not an issue with the PCV valve or EGR [electric in this car] valve)
I know... I thought relay or wiring also - but all lines and the relay are cool to the touch so they are not overheating. 1998 Eclipse GS....
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