While I'm driving between 45 and 55 mph my car will hesitate or jerk until I can maintain a regular speed. This happens when I'm driving local roads behind someone going slower.. She loves high speeds and this does not occur.
View 3 Replies2003 Explorer XLT.. All dash lights off finally... had to tape the new ABS connector into the socket on the driver's side. It kept losing signal. Now I am noticing that it is shifting a little hard, definitely not smooth, between 2nd and 3rd. It is not a hard jerk... more like a hesitation. could this be a solenoid? Should I look and feel for additional symptoms? Would it be risky to change out the transmission fluid? or use a cleaning additive?
View 12 RepliesIt was ok when the car starts from stop after green light. It will shows a hesitation and a jerk/clunk sound after it slows down below 20 mph and comes up over 20 mph again. it is ok for other speed. the fluid is ok and no leaks and no engine light. no burning and crazy smell.
A couple of months ago it starts the slipping at 20 mph part when it is cold and it is shifting ok for other speed. I am in CA bay area and it is better during hot days or warm noon period.
Right now I am opening up the trans for a rebuild. I notice all valves free movement, spring, filter and clutches all look good. I do not know what to look now.
I have a 2005 Chrysler 300C ( original owner )Mileage 172,000 and I take care of my car. I use full synthetic oil and change it every 5000 miles. I noticed a hesitation between 1000 and 2000 RPM's. It disappears after 2000 RPM's. The Chrysler dealer kept doing repairs and claimed the problem was gone and it is still there. The dealer did a full tune up, induction service and also replaced the EGR valve, gasket and seal. The problem gets worse in higher mountain altitudes.
View 3 RepliesFord Taurus 99 3.0 dohc. 122000 miles. No engine light.
When driving at 65 mph only while accelerating there is a jerk/buck almost like it tries to go faster but it gets stopped violently. I Checked spark plugs, wires, etc. The plugs were twice the gap so I just replaced them with wires and coil pack since they were original.
Still have the problem...and now I am testing several things. Tps seems OK. Voltage does not jump but it doesn't go higher than 4 volts even if its rated for almost five. I checked on a cheap scan tool voltage for o2 sensors. Both upstream seem to be normal. Down stream seem low and a bit jumpier than I would expect. And I am hoping its not the cat.
I have a 2000 VW Passat 1.8T and when I am driving and hit the gas all the way its like the car does a small jerk and then proceeds to go. Nothing too hard but def. noticeable. I just installed a boost gauge (autometer) and I am running a nuespeed chip. The PSI is maxed out @ 6-7psi. I also changed the mass air flow sensor car ran fine and now these problems started happening.
View 11 RepliesI recently started having problems with my 98 GMC Sierra c1500. I'll be driving and all the sudden it will jerk as if it's shifted from 5th to 1st gear, but the revs don't go up, they drop to about 600 like it is about to die and then it go back to normal revs. It only does this while I'm on the gas and very rarely at idle. I don't know if it could be the transmission or something is blocking fuel from the engine.
View 5 RepliesI just bought a 2001 elantra. The car frequently will jerk or stutter while driving like the gas is bad or it is starved for something. When the stutter problem happens while driving the check engine light flashes but does not stay on. It usually only stutter 1 time but has as much as 3. The other day when I was in a drive thru waiting to order the car kinda sputtered during an idle then shut off the check engine light did not flash at this time. It restarted fine after that.
I pulled the codes and read them and I have 2. I am not sure if they are related to this problem. They were U0D00 and P0705. For the P0705 I cleaned the terminal but did not pull the negative on the battery the reset the computer. I reset the codes and the problem still is happening but no new codes are present. The code P0705 has not returned since.
The shifting in my Hyundai Sonata 2009 Limited V6 is horrible, having issues with shifting such as a hard jerk from 1st to 2nd when car changes gears driving. It feels like it is pulling back when the car changes into 3rd gear oh and you can forget trying to go uphill. It is completely horrendous it is shifting always up to 3000+ rpms struggling to make it uphill. Any way to achieve a smoother shift and also towards the uphill thing.
View 4 RepliesWhile driving my 04 w12 a few months ago i noticed a "stutter" or brief jerk while driving. the next morning i had a "coolant level" warning. i took the car to a mechanic i use who diagnosed the problem as a broken coolant line involving the transmission cooler, with the result that coolant migrated to the atf. indication was that the tranny was toast, along with the atf cooler. I authorized a repair (not inexpensive), keeping costs down by installing a used tranny. since the car was "fixed" i still got a "jerk" usually in fourth gear, sometimes in third. i took the car back and was told that the tranny was flushed numerous times and the transmission was reflashed. i picked the car up yesterday, but i still get the "jerks", now usually in third gear.
View 3 Replies04 Kia Optima (116,000miles) will drive ok for 20 min. or so (last time 10 miles) I'll hit a bump, stop, turn a corner, or drive on hills (basically any condition) and it suddenly acts up after a small jerk (engine light comes and goes and I cannot get anyone to read codes correctly). I have to drive with my foot on the gas at stops if it gets really bad and it wont come down from above 40mph unless I break and feels like it wants to stall when trying to accelerate again after stops and difficult to sometimes get past 30/40mph, Once shut off, It has trouble starting, but will start.
I have had the PO335Crank shaft position sensor replaced three times, (last time by dealer) New battery, new spark plugs, the throttle body was cleaned, and high octane gas cleaner in the tank as well. Every time I take it in (6 or 7 times, different places), they say "it's not acting up right now so we don't know" .... I am curious about broken flexpipe..
Here is my new to me 03 Jetta 1.8T Wagon. This all started yesterday driving down the highway at about 65, I drove over a bump and there was what felt like a jerk. I lost the radio right away and when stepping on the accelerator it didn't seem to go over 3500rpm. I got a few miles into town taking it easy and it died as I pulled up to a stop sign. I was able to get a jump and get it running again.
This was the first jump of the day...When we popped the hood to jump it I noticed that the red wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the power block was frayed and corroded, so I cut the bad end off and stripped the wire to get a good connection. Left the car on a battery tender just to make sure the battery was charged and came back after a few hours and it started right up. Problem solved right?! Wrong...
Probably 10 miles down the road the same thing happens, a jerk or clunk sound, lost power and the call stalled out. Called family that was close by and tried to jump it again 'cause that worked the first time... Got a few miles down the road and it happened again!
Here's a picture of the gauge cluster and all the lights that lit up.
Long story short the car had basically no lights, power, for the windows/radio/turn signals/headlights etc... but was putting along at about 5 mph. I was out in the country and about 5 miles from home so I was just focused on getting it in my garage. It died again and a jump wouldn't even get it going the next time. I did some reading on my phone and it seems like the power block can be problematic, I took a picture of that because there is some obvious melted plastic on the large black wire.
I have a friend with a vag com, and he was able to come out and read the faults and then clear them and the car started right up just fine off a jump pack. We did get it home, but today I'm getting the same issues. I am trying to trace that black wire to its origin to see if there is corrosion or a loose connection there but I have no clue where else to start....
I start a new job on the 21st of July and this was meant to be my commuter as my truck gets terrible mileage...
I have an automatic 1994 Nissan Bluebird which I think is equivalent to the Nissan Altima in the US.
My car seems to jerk whilst driving, not specifically under load. Sometimes when I'm in park with my foot on the brake, it feels like its very subtly jerking on the spot. It is a sporadic condition, sometimes my car won't jerk at all (or very few times) on the way to work, and other days it will jerk a lot. On the whole it seems to be getting worse though. When switching between gears when stopped it changes quite roughly (but not violently). Turning on the AC makes the condition worse. It has stalled once in reverse, and sometimes feels like it will stall again when I'm slowing down.
When it does jerk I can hear a noise that sounds faintly like a can of coke being opened (quick sharp pressure release), and it seems like something (possibly a belt) is losing traction/slipping and quickly regaining its grip. My first suspicion was the drive belt or one of the other belts slipping or something like that. Other possibilities I suspect are, from looking through the Hayne's manual:
-Something to do with the transmission (I checked the transmission fluid and it seems fine, very light brown but mostly transparent)
-Fuel filter clogged or fuel line problems (1.5 years ago the car wouldn't start, and a mechanic had to manually inject fuel through the injection nozzles. The fuel was near empty however)
-Spark plugs gap wrong or damaged
-Distributor components damaged (the distributor and alternator were changed last year and swapped in with 2nd hand parts, also the mechanic was very shifty and I think he hacked it into my car without too much care for good wiring, fittings, etc).
Also, I took the car to a mechanic last week and he thought it was the spark plugs, but I think the problem may be more serious than that. He also wanted to flush the transmission fluid but I think I will give this a miss since I checked the fluid and it seems fine, plus I heard flushing the fluid in an old car may have negative effects.
My husband and I bought a used 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe that I like very much. However it has a serious and frightening problem. When driving in the rain, the steering wheel begins to jerk rapidly back and forth. The steering is responsive and smooth at all other times. We did not notice the problem immediately because we have had such a bad drought here that it has not rained much since we have owned the car. In fact, we had owned the car 3 months before we first encountered the problem. We took it to the dealer and they could find nothing wrong, but it wasn't raining. We returned to the service department on a rare day when it was actually raining and still the dealer could find nothing wrong. It seems that uneven or bumpy pavement makes it worse. The tires were in good shape when we got the car and are now getting to the point of needing to be replaced but we can't keep the car as we feel it is unsafe in the rain.
View 9 Replies2000 Chrysler Sebring Convt quit while driving. Tow truck drive and a mechanic at scene of breakdown felt itt seemed like it wasn't getting gas. Replaced fuel pump, fuel filter, 2 sets of plugs ans it won't start and when it did it ran rough and then fouled out new set of plugs. Seemed like too much fuel going to cylinder.
View 1 RepliesMy oil light comes on when I stop but goes off when I'm driving. I check the oil level and it was fine. What would cause this? It's a 2001 sebring 2.7L
View 6 Replies2006 ~ Noticed the car lights (head lights only) flickering off for a few seconds while driving at night, took it in and they re-set the computer, still is flickering. Without spending 4 hours in labor for them to check every wire?
View 2 Replies2003 Santa Fe GLS 3.5l with 170k.
Been working OK up until about 2 months ago when I would notice a brief hesitation every once in a great while when driving. It became hard to start - would crank well but just took about 5 seconds to finally start. Recently, I was on the highway and it jerked at about 65mph but did not cut off. Once when I was at a traffic light, it shut off completely but started right back up again. I was convinced that it was a crank or cam position sensor as I had dealt with a similar issue with another car years ago. It also seems to start right away when the temps are in the single digits - when they get higher than 25 or so, hard to start again.
I bought a new crankshaft position sensor because all the posts I've read point to that being the problem given the symptoms. I haven't installed it yet - still looking into this and wondering where it is! I'm thinking that it might be more fuel-related now though because after I started my car after work yesterday (it went all day without being started) it was hard to start but this time it was if I hadn't started it in 3 weeks. It kind of sputtered until I gave it the gas enough where it would settle out. Fuel pressure regulator? I hadn't thought it would be fuel-related (pump, pressure regulator) because 99% of the time, the car works just fine.
When highway driving with the AC on, on a slight incline, my CRv hesitates, and you really have to "punch" the accelerator to maintain speed, which in turn causes a very noticable increase. It's almost like there's a dead spot in the accelerator. Am I destined to just live with this, or can it be remedied?
View 10 RepliesI have a 1999 Chrysler 300M. It is overheating in a strange way. After driving 3 miles it begins to overheat. Sometimes it will overheat, then quickly drop back down to normal temperature, but then overheat again. When going up any grade it definitely overheats.
I have had the car in for repair at two mechanics. Both have GIVEN UP on fixing the problem. Here is what they tried: Replacing both radiator fans, replacing the thermostat, replacing the water pump. The car is also losing coolant. None of these repairs has solved the problem what-so-ever. It's a mystery. And I keep being deeper in the hole with money What could it be?? Someone said it could be the temperature sensor. Is that true?
I own a 2003 Chrysler town and country. I was driving home and all of a sudden the car just shut off. I coasted to the side of the road and tried to restart and nothing. The warning signals( i.e., seat belt etc.) came on normal but when I turned the key nothing no sound. I have no clue as to what is wrong with it. Had it towed home and here it sits.
View 6 Replies