I have 2006 Honda civic my SRS indicator light came on and stayed on about a week and a half ago, Today while driving the car i turned the steering wheel and the horn went on by itself and even stayed on for a minute. Later the volume on the radio went off when i turned the steering wheel and then the cruise control light came on and stayed on, i can't' turn it off. The horn no longer works.
View 2 RepliesMy cruise control does not work and the mechanic has diganosed the cruise control servo as the problem. The shop gave me an estimate of $700 (parts & labor) to replace it. Given the age of the car and the cost of repair, I am leaning towards doing it myself. I am handy with tools but have not done this type of repair before.
My question: Is there a downside to doing this repair myself. If I elect to do it myself, what do I need to watch for?
As a precautionary measure, I recently had the timing belt replaced on my 2003 Honda Civic. The mechanic noticed that the clutch master cylinder was leaking and I also had that replaced. After the repair, I noticed that my cruise control does not work (turns-on on the dashboard but does not work). I am taking the car back to have it fixed.
My question is where/what areas should I ask the mechanic to check to fix? I am thinking it could be as simple as a disconnected connection but I am not entirely sure.
After install. of a non original cruise control unit, the yellow eng. warning light is on all the time, my trip/fuel computer does not work, and the engine cuts out when driving, just for a sec, then it runs again. An OBD test says "speed sensor fault". My mechanic have not been able to find the problem.
View 2 Replies2002 Honda Civic LX
Around 1 or 2 years ago, cruise control has started acting strangely. If weather or the engine are cold, and the road is smooth, then it works fine. However, in hot weather, or if the engine is hot, cruise control disengages and the car just slows down as if someone turned CC off. Sometimes this happens randomly, other times by a nudge from a bump in the road.
If I try to re-engage CC, it doesn't work. I have to reach to the CC master switch, turn that off, then back on, and then CC starts working again for a while - until I hit the next bump or something.
The problem seems to be getting slowly worse as time goes by. At first I had this problem in the middle of summer. Now CC is affected even in winter (or what passes for winter in California).
What could possibly cause this? If it's something that could be fixed by just replacing some component, I'd rather do it myself. But I don't know what part might be the culprit.
Question regarding a 2002 Dodge Dakota, 2wheel drive ext cab 100,000 miles 6 cylinder engine. Cruise control stopped working, get the indicator light on dash, but no cruise.
Would I start with the Clock Spring? Will Durango parts interchange? ABS Light, was told the problem is the main unit that mounts on the driver side fender. Have tried replacing with other units from the local scrap yard, but still get warning lights/sounds.
1992 Honda Accord with 104,000 miles automatic transmission..was my mom's car and has been consistently maintained and serviced and gently driven!!The car performs well until...about 3 weeks ago when it starting revving up and the D4 light stayed on even when I was in reverse. Idling high and Drove like the car was in high gear.
Mechanic #1 checked the gear position switch and checked connection at Trans ECM. After unplugging and re-pluging in connector system functioned properly. And it did for about one week. then we were back to the same problem and it was clear that the car was not shifting like it should.
Mechanic #2 didn't provide much feedback: he emphatically stated that it was a transmission problem and that the trans would absolutely need to be rebuilt: price quote: $3500 including labor. I'm scratching my head at this point & reaching for the aspirin..as little as I know about cars I'm wondering how a transmission needs to be rebuilt at 104k?
Oh well..as much as I like this car, I don't want to put in $3500 and hope for the best. Mechanic #3 is a Hondo maven..and he says it's not the transmission...this is what he says: checked for codes; found none. Reset Transmission computer by removing power to it resulting in the car running better and D4 light if off. He advises that we Wait & See if problem happens again.. He suspects a possible electrical problem. Car does drive better and the D4 light remains off but when I get on the freeway the car seems stressed and noisy and when I decelerate, it's noisy. I am waiting for the other foot to drop.
I Encountered a problem today on my way back from shopping. I started the car as usual and noticed i was down on power and heard a weird noise from the exhaust in the back part of the car. I pulled over restarted and a message popped up saying Emissions Garage and a yellow engine control light stayed on. Got home popped the hood and i heard this turbo sound like in the imports. I am pretty sure its the air going back in to the turbo as if in the blow off valve wasn't doing its job. Also a weird noise on all the air intake pipe specially at the air filter.
View 4 RepliesI bought this car last year w the cruise control not functioning. It would be fun to get it to work...
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Honda Accord that just today started acting weird. I was driving 70mph on the highway and noticed the car was "tugging" a bit. I looked down and the RPMs kept revving up to 5-6k and accelerating while the cruise control was set at 70.
View 7 RepliesMy 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
The "Cruise Main" switch on my 2003 Honda Accord will not stay engaged. When I push it, the Cuise Main lights up in the dash board and I can operate cruise control, but when I release the Cruise Main switch it doesn't stay on. I've tried electrical tape to hold the switch in (holds for limited time), and am thinking about bypassing the switch altogether. I don't mind if the Cruise Main is on all the time. I know I could replace the switch, but am looking for a zero cost solution.
View 1 RepliesWhile driving on the highway, the cruise control shuts off and the speedometer stops working. Check engine light comes on. Car continues to run fine.
Five days later, I start the car and the following do not work: clock, intermittent wipers, neutral safety switch, tachometer, temperature gauge, gear indicator lights, rear defrost, windows, and I believe that is all. Car runs and drives fine. Other electrical items working. I check all fuses and only find one burned out - (#1, inside, labeled 'back up lights' meter lights) I replace the fuse and it blows when I start the car again. Take the car to AutoZone and they put it on their computer and it shows one code - P0501 - CVT speed sensor.
Two days later, the car will not start. Turns over strong, but will not start. I have checked the grounds on the transmission and body and they appear to be fine. Battery cables, also.
Had an issue with "check" engine light turning on and "cruise" control light flashing, intermittently. Dealer said we had dirty oil contaminating some solenoid valves in the system but we had just done an oil change and do so every 3-5K (car has 170K). They recommended switching around the sensors and doing an "oil flush" with another oil change. The warning light problem hasn't recurred, in the past month, since we started giving the gas cap a few extra turns after a fill-up. We're getting ready to buy a new car and don't want to give what might be a serious problem over to the next owner.
View 6 RepliesThis has happened only once the other night. I was cruising about 50MPH, hit the brakes for a red light, while I was at the red light the Cruise Control light started flashing. The cruise control would not engage at any speed during the flashing stage, and I didn't think it would as a flashing light usually means a malfunction. I went a few miles turned the car off, restarted it and haven't had a problem since. Just chalk this up to a 1 time glitch?
View 8 Replies2007 RX 350 my cruise control light will not come and cruise not working. I use cruise control frequently and know how to turn on& off, set, etc. It is definitely not working. Also, "AFS off"light on RPM gauge. Is this a fuse issue? If so, which fuse? Pulled engine fuse box and AMP did not matchup with what manual said.
View 2 RepliesMy 2010 GTI with 18.6k miles has been doing great until now. After a brief stop on hwy. coming back from Florida the airbag light stayed on and the cruise control stopped working. Its at dealer's now and I got a rental from VW. Guy in shop did not seem to have a clue. He talked about a module or wiring. He asked me if car had been in a wreck - no.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2005 Subaru Outback with 179,000 miles on it. My engine and cruise control lights flash on and off....have been doing this for 6 months now....intermittently. My mechanic said the he cleared the computer and to wait and see if it happens again. He said that it might be the catalytic converter. The car runs fine whether or not the lights are flashing.
View 3 RepliesHad an odd event this morning on my drive into work. Put the cruise control on at about 75 mph, after several mins came up to traffic and as I pressed the brake the car began to speed up and the engine revved up, I had to press the cancel button on the cruise control to disengage it. Immediately after disengaging it, the ESC came on solid. Once at work, I re-started the car without issue and the ESC light went off. Didn't try the cruise control again on the drive in.
2011 Sonata Limited with approx. 55K. Bought new in Feb in 2010. I have had the brake stop recall performed several years ago.
So i had a long drive yesterday and i decided to use Cruise Control. I rarely use it, but I have tried it in the past and it worked. So yesterday it didn't work. The light never came on in the dash and it never actually worked. I plan on mentioning it to the dealer when i bring it in next time but i was wondering if there was something i could check for myself. Such as a fuse?
View 24 RepliesI have no horn, no cruise. I have lights on the steering wheel switches fine. I measured all the resistances for the steering wheel switches, and checked the horn switch as it goes into the clockspring, everything checked out fine.
Replaced the clockspring, no joy. Cracked open the old one, not a hint of any problem.Checked voltages and resistances at the cruise/servo module, fine. Took the servo module thingy and swapped it with my truck. Works just fine in my truck. My trucks doesn't work in the X. If I try to get the module to go into its self test mode by turning it on/off while holding the off switch, I can get it to blink on the dash, but the next switch presses bring no more blinks. I have continuity and a dry master cylinder switch. I have a working top center brake light, fuse tests ok.