Shifted accidentally from third to second on highway, revved way up and engine shut off, turns over almost started an hour later but didnt want to try to completely start it. still under warranty so how do I get around the OBD reports and get it covered or am I screwed.
View 2 RepliesI just recently had an oil change yesterday to be exact. I have never looked at my RPM when I drive, but at every oil changes the dealer always does the "Multi-point inspections", of which I do not like since the tech may ruin something that's not broken or does not put something back together correctly and may cause problems down the road. Anyways, I usually drive at least 80 on the highway. Yesterday I drove home, and I noticed that around 70-75, the RPM was at 3, and a bit over at 80. I've driven other cars and the RPM is never over 3.
View 3 RepliesIt's a 2012 Corolla. I disconnected the battery and the 2 grounds where the fender mounts in the front. I did this to do some body repairs. When I reconnected everything, the car started, but immediately shut off. What is wrong? Is it a computer issue where it needs to relearn?
View 5 RepliesI just finished a 2 hour road trip(about 80 miles per an hour) on my 2013 Corolla S. I have realized what it is about the steering that I am having an issue with. Off the highway, the steering is great and I love the steering feel. But on the highway it tightens up and is real firm. I would like it to be more loose and not as firm on the highway. With it super tight on highspeeds, the usual correcting it with a minor left and right requires signifcant more push/pressure from the arm and hand. Also, need it feels more sensitive to degrees. I find myself shifting around trying to find a relaxing spot to steer and apply that much pressure to steering without my arm/hand getting tired.
Is there anything that can be adjusted to make the steering not tighten up at highspeeds and also be so sensitive? Will it lesson over time? I am using the 17" alloy wheels with Goodyear tires.
So I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
View 1 RepliesI'm new to owning a Toyota. I just financed a 2010 black Toyota corolla S with 36 miles on it from a local dealership after i decided my last car was pretty much a money pit (2001 expedition)...blew the head gaskets, then after that was fixed developed a bad knock...anyhow i just decided i was overdue for a new car. Its a 5 speed manual and at highway speeds (65-70mph) I've noticed the rpms are bit high...like around 3grand. Is that normal? Just seemed really high to me, I really think this car would do great with a 6 speed. Also is the corolla governed? I was on a long stretch of road and i quickly got to 110ish with no sign of a governor kicking in...?
View 14 RepliesIs it possible to reset or shut off the auto door locks?
When I use my use my factory remote to unlock the doors it usually locks itself within one second. If it don't time it right I'm pressing that button repeatedly trying to open the door. This is such a pain and it's annoying. Sometimes when I go to open the door so that I can exit the vehicle it locks itself midway me opening the door so that I'm stuck.
I called the dealer and shocker they want me to come in so that I can get screwed. There must be a way to just reset or reprogram this.
I have searched I have seen threads concerning the locking when you shift out of park. I am asking about just locking and unlocking the car.
Having problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
year: 2009
miles: 80160
This usually happens when im on the highway i guess because im usually going over 50mph I hear like a loud humming and vibration and if I turn the steering wheel left or right it becomes unbearable, like deafening. What may cause this, im thinking maybe i need an alignment or wheel balancing or just new suspension.
I have a 2009 Corolla (smaller 4 cyl) with auto trans. at 101K miles. I have a whine at hwy speed when the drive line is unloaded. What I mean unloaded is there is no acceleration or deceleration. The whine does not change pitch or level with speed.
View 1 RepliesIs this behavior normal: I test drove a 2010 corolla LE with 4-spd auto, 41K miles. Noticed that on level highway 60 mph that whenever I eased up on the gas that the RPMs would shoot down. Vehicle speed was barely decelerating since I was on level. As soon as gas reapplied (gently), then the RPMs would shoot up. I'm guessing the delta was like 300 RPM. I get the impression that at highway speeds the car is mostly in 3rd gear or shifting up and down a lot. I've read a lot about a TSB for 2011 corollas but nothing for 2010. And I think that problem is different. So my question is whether this is "normal" for driving at highway speeds?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2011 corolla S with 32.5k on it, so my 3yr/36k warranty is running up in a few months. my car from day one (that I had it, at 17k)has had an annoying rattle in the headliner ahead of the sunroof, near the overhead lights. If I press up, even slightly on the lip of the headliner around the front of the sunroof cutout, it goes away. Dealer thinks its normal and says repairs wouldn't be covered under warranty.
The second is a new one, when I go over a bump in the road at highway speeds, there is a squeak coming from the center of the dashboard, at first I thought it was a strut, but after driving back and forth on the same stretch of road for half an hour, I found it to be coming from somewhere behind the radio. Dealer says, squeaks will happen as a car ages.
Do I need to take it to a new dealer (about an hour away) or can I fix this myself?
I have a 2011 corolla. the engine just dont have any pep. is there a way to swap 1.8 for a 2.4 . is it worth the effort. or how can i get more pep without sinking lots into it.
View 14 RepliesI own a 2009 superwhite corolla xrs. I've owned the car now for several months . Ever since I got It, I've heard a noise coming from the engine bay . Sounds like a Metallic rattling .seems to do it in the cold and warm weather . I have a feeling that its the water pump . Every time I take it to the dealer it doesn't make the noise. It's makes the noise on a regular basis . Check out the video... ignore the dirty dash low fuel light... I was parked by a gas station i swear.
View 3 RepliesMy daughters 2009 will start right up but after about a second it shuts right off we tried it several times and it shuts right down.If you wait for 10 to 20 mins it starts and runs fine.
View 4 RepliesMy 2009 , 1.8 Corolla gets terrible gas mileage. 23 city (lowest was 12), best ever was 30 highway. I have approx 14K on the odo because the MPG makes me want to leave at home.
The MPG has been verified in writing by 2 different dealers, so I do not consider myself the problem. I drive conservatively and calculate MPG based on actual miles / gallons. Toyota Corp did not bother to fix this issue. It has been serviced regularly and had whatever fixes Toyota offered.
What I think is causing my terrible mileage is some glitch in an engine sensor that causes it to rev from 900 to 1100 RPM when I take my foot off the accelerator and attempt to coast. The revs go down when I press the brake. This happens constantly, especially at around 25 MPH. If I do not brake, the car will pull for a while without slowing down like normal cars.
I showed my Toyota dealers but they all said nothing is wrong. My Corolla even went up a slight hill without my foot near the accelerator. One tech told me the Corolla is burning off extra fuel, but my car will pull itself for over 1/2 mile, too much time for "burning". Something IS wrong. I have driven dozens of vehicles and never had one jump like this. Where to start diagnosing?
My engine just went out in my 2009 Corolla XRS. What vehicles have the same engine as a 2009 Corolla XRS 2.4L manual transmission?
Also, what would it take to put in the 1.8L engine? Would it bolt straight up? Would I need a new ecu/wiring harness/mounts/exhaust/trans etc?
I am considering putting in a rebuilt or used transmission at the same time because my syncros were failing.
A couple weeks ago, my check engine light popped on and I noticed my engine misfire. I happened to be driving by an autozone, so I pulled in and had them check the code. Came back as a misfire on cylinder 4, possibly bad ignition coil or clogged injector. I ran some techron for the next couple of gas tanks, didn't seem to do much, as I would still occasionally get the check engine light.
It has been getting more and more common for it to happen while driving since. Today on the way home from work, it misfired several times in a row and got so bad that I couldn't get above 40mph. This lasted for a minute or two, then cleared up and I made it home without a hitch. Took it back to autozone, same code..Cylinder 4 misfire, probably ignition coil or primary/secondary ignition b fault. I went ahead and bought an ignition coil, came back home and installed. Just took it for a test drive and now I've got the same issue.
I only replaced the one coil that has been throwing a code as misfiring. I did not also replace the spark plug on that cylinder.
Just purchased a 2010 Toyota Corolla S, 41k, automatic. When I'm going down a flat road, at about 30-35 miles per hour, with a constant pressure on the gas pedal, the engine seems to momentarily lose RPM, just for a moment, almost feels like the A/C compressor is kicking in but not quite, another description is it feels like clogged injectors. All other speeds seem to be ok, kicking the throttle to the floor results in smooth acceleration, I'm actually impressed with the amount of power the engine has. Is this normal? Ive purchased some lucas fuel treatment and have added it to the tank. Throttle response seems ok, I've read about throttle controllers however I'm not sure that would fix the problem, if there is one. Hoping it's a characteristic of the vehicle.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla 1.8L. It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on or when I try to start it. There are 3 EFI fuses, and all of them are good. There doesn't seem to be an EFI relay (correct me if I'm wrong). I've replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start.
View 10 RepliesInstalling a remote engine start on corolla? 2013 Corolla with G key specifically.
View 13 Replies