It's a 2012 Corolla. I disconnected the battery and the 2 grounds where the fender mounts in the front. I did this to do some body repairs. When I reconnected everything, the car started, but immediately shut off. What is wrong? Is it a computer issue where it needs to relearn?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 Corolla XRS that been flawless until today. This morning I moved my car in my yard, it was about a 20 second adventure and all was good. About 2 hours later, I went to use the car and it wouldn't start. Now it just starts then immediately dies. If I try and crank it over without turning off the ignition, it just cranks. If I turn off the ignition and try again, it starts, then dies again. This is 100% repeatable.
Battery posts and voltage are good. No OBDII codes. Fuses all look good.
I have a 2010 S with 70,000 miles. At 60,000 miles, just after the warranty ran out on me, I started to get a gear grinding noise for approximately one second immediately following a cold startup. It doesn't happen all the time, but I'd say once out of every eight starts on cold mornings after it's been sitting. I researched the issue pretty extensively and it seems to narrow down to the cam timing gear being the issue or a bad starter relay. The 2009's had a TSB for the issue being a cam timing gear, but the dealer assures me that my vehicle is not one of the ones covered by the TSB.
I'm inclined to try the relay fix, since a new relay is only $60. The thing is, I would hate to install the part and find out that the issue remains and then be out $60. Any identical relay elsewhere in the car that I can swap it with to see if that work. Of course, if the relay is bad, I'd be breaking something else possibly. Or, even better, is there a way to test the relay to see if is the cause of the problem?
I just got my '09 Corolla last night and it's doing something I'm not sure it is supposed to do. When I go out to my car I press the unlock button and open the door. A beeping noise starts immediately before the key is even in the ignition. When I do put the key in the beeping continues and does not stop until I close the door. The car I had before this was an '89 Corolla so I don't have any experience with these keyless entry things.
View 14 RepliesSo I recently replaced my battery with A yellow top battery and got a new 320 volt alternator....my car turns on but will shut off because there is no power coming from the alternator and is running just on battery power alone which is draining the battery. Even when I pull the positive off the battery when it's running it turns off...no power is coming from the alternator but we realized the 4 wires that connect to the alternator only 1 was running power, if I'm not mistaken isn't it suppose to be 2? But we cannot seem to figure out the issue as well the alternator fuse is good we checked that as well , my mechanic also mentioned when the car is off there is still power running from that 1 wire,
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Corolla XRS 5 speed manual and it has started to idle low (sometimes), under 600 rpm and i know that's not normal... I bought it brand new and it has 75k miles
View 12 RepliesShifted accidentally from third to second on highway, revved way up and engine shut off, turns over almost started an hour later but didnt want to try to completely start it. still under warranty so how do I get around the OBD reports and get it covered or am I screwed.
View 2 RepliesIs it possible to reset or shut off the auto door locks?
When I use my use my factory remote to unlock the doors it usually locks itself within one second. If it don't time it right I'm pressing that button repeatedly trying to open the door. This is such a pain and it's annoying. Sometimes when I go to open the door so that I can exit the vehicle it locks itself midway me opening the door so that I'm stuck.
I called the dealer and shocker they want me to come in so that I can get screwed. There must be a way to just reset or reprogram this.
I have searched I have seen threads concerning the locking when you shift out of park. I am asking about just locking and unlocking the car.
Having problems with a ECM and throttle body for 2010 Corolla S? My corolla will idle rough and the throttle body will shut the car down to where it is inoperable. It throws codes and shuts the VVT down. The car currently has 56k miles on it and has been to Toyota 3 times in 3 months.
The first time they say they replaced the ECM, I really don't think so. 24 hours after we picked the car up it shut down again. The second time we brought it back in they said the brake light bulb caused the throttle body to shut down.
It had to go back again this week after it shut down again in traffic when it was idling. Toyota said the throttle body had to re-learn the idle again from when the ECM was supposedly replaced.
So driving home today cel came on and vsc started flashing.
The codes I got were pretty out there
P0420 - cat converter (this one I did expect)
B0cc0 ???
C3a32 ???
U0a8e ???
B3e1f ???
I'm wondering if this was poor communications between the unichip and ecu? As for the vsc flashing, people complained about this during rain. It is currently raining. But not certain this is the issue.
2009 Corolla XLE. 88K miles. My Corolla hadn't been driven for almost a week. This morning the car wouldn't start. Upon turning the ignition key, there was no clicking though. I tried to jump start it multiple times with no success. I thought maybe I am doing something wrong with the jump start.
Called Roadside assistance. The guy had me try to start it once and kind of figured out what was wrong. He started the car and pumped the gas at the same. The car started. He said the vehicle is fuel injected since it has been sitting at the same spot for almost a week. He suggested I should let it run for sometime. Its pretty cold here today (~35F real feel). Since this happened, I started the car multiple times throughout the day without pumping the gas and it did start without any issue.
I am pretty sure its not normal for this car as I never had to do this before. Is there something wrong with the car? Do I need to take the car to the mechanic and have it checked? What should I expect in terms of any mechanical repairs? I dont want to get stranded somewhere and would like to get it fixed.
I just recently purchased a 2009 Corolla S Automatic. It still runs fine, but my concern is that when I start it that there is a squeaking or screeching like a belt is not tight enough or is too tight in the engine somewhere. That and there is a rattling that sounds like a bunch of marbles bouncing off of metal or as if there is something loose that is metal and just making vibrations from the way the engine is running. It drives fine, I have no other problems. I still have amazing gas mileage and everything else. What could be the issue and could I fix it from home?
View 1 Replies[URL] .... I couldn't figure out how to embed the video...
My mother's 09 Corolla XLE just started making this high pitched noise.. It makes this noise every other day, then it makes a loud pop sound and goes back to normal..
So I've had my car for just a little over 3 years and it has 28,000 miles on it. I always use Shell gas and fill it up before it goes under the quarter tank mark every time. I take very good care of it, and I've loved it. I constantly get upper 30 mpg in city driving and mid to upper 40s on highway.
Recently, I have had an issue where for the past week. One morning, it started rough and got bad mpg for a few mins until the engine "burped" (best way I can describe it). Then it was fine.
I felt this same surge or "burp" 2 times after that. It doesn't speed up or anything, the RPMs drop for a second and come back up as if something is pulling power away. I still get amazing gas milage (39.2mpg and I filled up 2 days ago). It just surges. I don't understand. I take very good care of it! I looked online and apparently its an issue that some others are having. What could it be?
Driving home yesterday and my dashboard battery light started flashing intermittently. This morning it came on and won't go off.
So far I have...
1. Tested alternator and battery with a multimeter and the results appear to be within normal ranges.
2. Pulled out the alternator and had it tested. It went through 7 test cycles on the bench and passed all of them.
3. Swapped out the battery with a new one.
4. Checked the charging system fuse.
5. Thoroughly cleaned the battery cables.
6. Cleaned the battery to chassis and engine to chassis ground cables.
The battery light stays on no matter what I do. What am I missing?
i own a 2010 corolla s with only 3000 miles on it. it is a 5 speed and the other day, when revving out 3rd gear to 5500 rpm, my motor started missing, and my check engine, vsc, and trac control lights came on. i turned off the motor and then started it back up and it ran fine but the dummy lights stayed on. i took it to the dealer and they check the codes and it showed that cylinder 2 missed. after explaining to them how it happened and taking a service technician for a ride, they took off the valve cover on my motor, and seen that 3 rocker arms had FALLEN OFF and they tried making me pay $700 to fix it because i was "over revving the motor". I was told that the rocker arms cant withstand that high of rpms and they will fall off due to the floating design "not bolted". but after 2 hours of arguing, they said they would cover it, but only this 1 time. I don't understand why they have the rev limiter set at 6,300 on these cars, when the rocker arms are capable of coming off at 5,500.
View 14 RepliesI just rebuilt the carb on the truck, it has the 2.8L, and when I went go go start it, it cranked for awhile until fuel filled the bowl, then it started and revved up high, I shut it off immediately and it turns out the throttle linkage was binding for some reason, I fixed that but now it wont restart.
I was cranking it for a while and gas started spewing out of the top, so I took the top of the carb off and reset the float height and now it doesn't spew gas.
I pulled the plugs and checked for spark and it's a really bright blue spark. I'm thinking it's just flooded, lots of gas on the plugs? I'm just waiting for it to clear out now and trying to brain storm what could be wrong.
Tried changing fuel filters on my 2008 F350 diesel. Tried primary - open drain - no tool to remove cap, closed drain. Removed top cap, replaced filter.
Started but immediately shut down. Did this twice. Put old filter back in - still no start. Wrench code light on.
I have a 2009 corolla ce i can get the key in to the ignition ...
View 1 RepliesSo I want to disable the ABS on my Corolla. I was wondering if I could pull the fuse in my bonnet to disable the ABS and if I were to do so which fuse would I pull.
I think if I were to pull the fuse from the interior, the other car features that are tied into the fuse wouldn't work.
If I can't pull the fuse in the bonnet, what are the other ways I could disable ABS? I read that removing the relay is an option.
Also is there anything I should know if I were to reactivate ABS? For instance, would the ABS light be off when I presumably reactivate it or do I need to perform some extra steps to remove the ABS light?
My 09 corolla has a whine at around 35-50 mph it does sound like its rpm related. When i let off the throttle it isn't as loud.
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