Will not start. Engine turns over fine. Have electric to lights, radio, everything but the fuel pump, coil and fuel gauge. Ignition switch and fuel pump check out okay. Checked fuses, okay. Vehicle has an add on after market remote start/security system, has been working fine for years.
View 1 RepliesI have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
View 2 RepliesRE: FORD PROBE GL (non-turbo). Last week suddenly car wouldn't start Thurs. night. Cranked but would not turn over. Heard click at ignition switch area when key turned to start position. (Although I could only hear one click from inside the vehicle with windows shut, I was told that clicks audible under the hood from standing outside.) Tried jump starting (from a good battery using proper connections) unsuccessfully, repeated tries several minutes apart, allowing longer and longer time to charge. About every third attempt, instead of cranking sounds, I would get silence, with only the click audible.
Temperatures decreased from approximately 50s to 20s when symptoms began.Battery is old but tests good/replace soon: 330+ CCA at 43 degrees, original rating CCA 530 (silver battery now at 7 years. Will replace, but garage did not have required size 56). At that point, the amps gauge read at the low end of the normal range (and today it read mid-way in the normal range).Had car towed to garage on Friday. Mechanic looked at on Saturday and decided it was the inertia switch, which he said had "tripped".I watched video for technicians on inertia switch but it shows on newer Fords. Mine is not located at the kick panel and does not have a red button on top. I am not certain from my experience whether the reset button would actually be in a different position when tripped or he merely surmised that is what had happened, despite my telling the shop manager that I had not so much as bumped a curb. Also, the trunk was not slammed or even opened prior to the car not starting.
Car presumably started fine at mechanic when they pulled it into the garage to put air in tires and back out to the lot, as well as when I started it to drive home on Sunday. However, on Tuesday it would not start. Just in case, I depressed inertia switch reset and tried cranking again several times, giving it some gas, until I was actually pumping it vigorously in desperation as a last resort (several seconds turning key each time), and on about the 5th try, the engine began to catch just as I was releasing the key. Reset the inertia switch one more time (just in case), and after a couple more attempts, it finally started, but when I was going in reverse to back out and then putting in gear to start out in first gear, for about 15 seconds total, I heard a bizarre loud, fairly high-pitched whistle/whine type of sound that seemed to come from under the hood coming through the central area of the dash where the radio is located.
Drove about 5 miles to my job, and about 2 hours later was able to start the car on the first try. Lately usually driven relatively short distances of 2-4 miles, with a longer drive of 11 miles broken up into 6 miles + 5 miles on the return trip the night before this started happening.
My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
1998 Dodge Durango, runs fine when cold, but when it warms up, the transmission will lock up going down the road(scary to say the least).
View 4 RepliesMy daughter's 1998 Saturn S-series will not start. It will turn over fine but will not fire until I shoot some starter fluid down the intake. Then it fires up and runs fine. It consistently will not crank unless I shoot the starter fluid to it. I can hear the fuel pump prime up when I turn the switch on. The Saturn dealer says it may be the ECM but I have my doubts. The ECM will cost my $800 from Saturn.
View 14 Replieso my wife was driving our 2005 Accent GLS with about 95k miles yesterday, and it had an issue that it's had three or four times before: the engine would turn over but wouldn't start while it was still warm. In the past when it happened, whoever was driving would wait a few minutes and try again. It always started on the third or fourth try after waiting five to twenty minutes.
Yesterday, however, she was frustrated and so called AAA to have them send a battery truck over and have them take a look at it. The truck came relatively quickly, and they started their diagnostic procedures. The battery was fine (knew that), and he tried all the standard things like cleaning the terminals/harnesses and whacking the starter with a hammer. My wife said that as she and the tech tried to start the car, the turn-over seemed to get shorter and shorter- so when she first tried it would turn for a few seconds, and after a dozen or so attempts it was only turning for a second or less.
Finally, the tech (who apparently seemed to be frustrated at this point) got behind the wheel while my wife was looking under the opened hood and turned the ignition on and held it. The positive battery terminal apparently started smoking and my wife had to yell at him to get him to stop.
After this point, the engine no longer turned over at all. He tried a few more things like cleaning the cables, but no change. He finally said that he would call for a tow truck, and we ended up getting it towed back to our house.
The problem is unchanged since yesterday: there is full power when in ACC mode, but when you turn the ignition all the way to the on position there is nothing but a single loud "click" and a high-pitched whining noise.
I left my ODB bluetooth interface at my office, so I haven't been able to see if there are any codes.
My trusty 2000 v10 has begun to give us starting troubles. The symptoms are:
1) Most times it does start normally and runs great.
2) When it won't start - Engine does not turn over
3) Interior lights and other electrics work, battery reads 13v
4) There is a click from the relay when the key is turned
5) Wires look good, no corrosion found in fuse/relay boxes
6) No indication of funny stuff via dash board lights
7) I do not have a code reader
My resolution the past two times has been to verify volts and connections, then wiggle all fuses and relays, wiggle the shifter in the car, then it started.
I have checked the basics and have become suspicious of sensors after running the Pinpoint Test A listed in another post by ~Christina. My forum research indicated that other people had problems with:
- transmission range sensor
- crankshaft sensor.
- cam sensor
So how does one go about finding the location of and testing these? Are there other sensors to investigate?
My daughters 2009 ford escape will turn over fine but won't start. Hooked up code reader and it read p0690. I am trying to get a feel for what this really is. It seems to me a spark or fuel issue but that is not part of that code from what've read.
View 1 RepliesI was surprised this morning by my 2000 Pontiac Bonneville not starting. All the other devices and systems activated but the engine made no attempt to turn over at all. It's a rebuilt title but the car has shown no signs of difficulty except a small bit of sputtering last night when it was unfortunately running on fumes and the service light activating after the gas tank was filled. My limited experience and lack of funds makes me hope this is a blown fuse as that would be relatively quick and painless (so I understand it) to fix but a friend has suggested it may be the starter and I am not foolish enough to believe it couldn't be something even worse. Of course I want to be appraised of more serious concerns in case I need to start making long term plans to restore my mobility.
View 2 RepliesThis 97 F150 4.2 is new to me, originally a very base 2wd white fleet vehicle, with 189,000 miles, runs smoothly and quietly, idles well, transmission shifts smoothly. Gets reasonable gas mileage.
Problem statement: the truck has an intermittent starting problem. The failure to start happens about 5-10% of the time. The motor will turn over fine, but but immediately stumbles while trying to start. Turn key off and then re-start attempt will be again followed by a bucking stumble. Some times the motor might try and run for 2-3 seconds bucking and stumbling. It is possible the problem happens more often when the truck is warm and has been shut off for 15 minutes or so. Once the problem happens it is very repeatable. It won't start again unless I wait about 30 minutes to an hour. Once it starts it seems to run very nicely. I have noticed some times when I go to successfully start the truck it might run roughly for the first 3-4 seconds bucking and sputtering a bit and then smooth out and not have an issue until the next re-start attempt.
The truck runs so nicely when it is running I doubt it is an issue with the plugs, air filter general tune up. Could it be an intermittent fuel pump issue? The next time it occurs I will check fuel pressure. Could it be fuel pressure regulator? Also tested by fuel pressure. ECU? The truck runs very nicely most of time that seems like a long shot. Crank sensor? Bad fuel? I did add some dry gas.
So my wife drove her car all day yesterday, everything fine. This morning went to start and it wouldn't. It turns over fine just not firing.
Now during the summer I had replace the fuel pump/filter before discovering that was not the issue.
I know you are already thinking CPS!.. I replaced that over the summer.
I have not checked the spark yet, kinda hard to do that one by yourself.
Beyond spark I am not sure what else could be wrong, especially because it was running fine last night. Is it common for accents to have issues in 20 degree weather?
A few months ago I purchased a 2.7l toyota 4runner 1999 with about 144k from original owner. A few weeks later, the vehicle won't start. when I turned the key in the ignition, nothing happens. my mechanic from toyota dealership have checked or changed everything; the relay, battery, starter, switch module and neutral switch sensor. What it might be and how I can get it fixed?
View 14 RepliesA cold engine crank will turnover and start normally. But stop to run and errand or grab lunch...and the warm 302 2 barrel engine will turn over very sluggishly, lke the battery is dying. If you wait until the engine is cool, an easy start is assured but that takes hours! A local repair shop has rebuilt the carb, the battery & cables are new, and the starter works fine when engine is cold. My local repair shop is out of suggestions. It seems to work a little to hold the gas pedal down on the floor for a warm engine start....but engine still turns over sluggishly when trying to start when warm. Now If I drive it.....I just drive it around town a bit then back home ...unless I stay several hours somewhere while the engine cools....but that's not fun. It is a convertible, fun to drive...and this problem needs to be solved.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
View 6 RepliesMy 2000 Toyota MR2 started to act up a bit lately.
I noticed that the car cranks fine, but turns over very weak. almost seems like it barely starts. This happens ONLY when the car is already warmed up. This does not happen when car is starting from cold start. Like, starting first time in the morning is fine, but after 10 minutes of driving, then turned off, the subsequent starts are weak as a fart from a butterfly. But it does start, and when it does... it seems to drive okay.
Now, I've been hearing it can be leaky fuel injectors, or... Mass Air Flow sensor, .. or .... bad fuel pressure..(which may be part of leaky injectors?)
I have a 2002 F250 7.3L and it wont start. Its been sitting for the past few days in the cold because the batteries were shot but was plugged in the whole time. I replaced the batteries today and even poured diesel 911 5 hours before trying to start it in case the fuel was gelled. It cranks fine but just wont turn over.
View 2 RepliesI recently caught up on some maintenance with my truck, changed the turbo pedestal seals, replaced both batteries, brakes, e-brake cable etc and installed new 10k hid headlights. its a single cab 250 with a 7.3 and zf6 4x4 with 133k. a couple days ago I turned on the headlights and the truck died, restarted no problem and would die the next 5 times I tried to turn them on, then it worked fine. yesterday I got in my truck to leave for work and got no wait to start light, no glow plug chatter, no fuel pump running. turns over just fine but no fire.
I got a ride to work and tried it when I got home, fired right up. I pulled the pCM, checked it out, no weird smells and my TS chip wasn't corroded or anything like that, worked fine. drove to 711 to get a 6 pack and it did the headlight thing again. I removed the HIDs because this all started after I installed them and reinstalled my silvanias and it didn't die when I turned them on. this morning went to leave for work, same no start condition. I disconnected both batteries for 30 seconds to reset anything and same problem. I was about ready to light it on fire this morning.
I've got a Chevy Malibu with roughly 120K miles on it. It runs relatively well - when it starts - which is why I'm here, obviously. The battery is brand new with all the connections seeming to be great, so I doubt it's an electrical issue in that regard.
Furthermore, in cases where the car doesn't start, almost always it's on an incline where the gas tank is lower than the rest of the vehicle.
When it's either level or higher than the rest, it seems to start up fine, which has led me to wonder if it's something to do with the fuel intake (note that the car doesn't stall at all - it simply won't start in the adverse conditions I said here).
'99 Yukon. Starter spins engine fine but engine won't start. Spray a quick shot of starter fluid or drip some gas on the air filter and it starts fine. After sitting idle for a half hour or so the situation returns. Car will run highway speeds (70-80mph) fine and will handle stop and go in town. Local mechanic wants to replace the fuel pump, which was replaced a couple of years (30,000 miles) ago. This seems an expensive first step with no diagnostics done.
View 4 RepliesI have a 03 Dodge Durango whose ignition switch has gone to pot. Key won't turn at all. Got a new switch to replace it (which will be a totally easy swap out) BUT, the key won't turn so I can't unlock the latch/push pin/button to release it.
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