2010 Elantra, broken front right wheel stud. I removed the rotor and it looks like there's not enough room to R & R without removing the whole hub assembly due to the dust shield. Is this correct?
View 3 RepliesI have searched and I can only find instructions for the front. The rear is completely different right? I am assuming I need to remove the disk rotor. Can I pound out the broken stud with a sledge hammer and will the new one just fit in from behind or is there more to it?
View 5 RepliesI recently bought a 2010 accent 4 dr. and broke a rear wheel stud. The local auto parts store lists front studs and I was told they cannot get rear ones. What is the difference?
View 3 RepliesI went to a big box store to have new tires put on the rear of my 2002 Nissan Altima. They told me I had a stud broken from the inside of the wheel. The lug nut is still attached, and they can't get the wheel off. Both the stud and the nut turn freely within the socket. Is there any way to get this off without having to pay the $70 a tire place will charge me to fix it? I don't know how long its been like this. I currently have three new tires and one old.
View 2 RepliesI broke one of my rear studs off today when I was putting my wheel back on. The rest seem okay, but I'm wondering how difficult it is to replace them? Is it as simple as hammering the broken one out and replacing it with a new one? I don't have to take the drum off, right?
View 2 RepliesI broke one of the wheel/hub studs on my 2006 Ford Focus, when I tried to take the wheel off. So, this car lived through 7 winters in Boston metropolitan area, and it has about 90,000 miles on it.
I bought the car used last summer, so I don't know what the previous owner did, but I have always torqued my wheels since I bought it. But one of them broke off anyway, when I tried to take the wheel off. I took off the brake caliper and the disc to see the condition of the broken stud. The hub and the stud seemed to have rusted together. I recently moved from California via Oregon, so I am not used to seeing a lot of rust on anything. So, I can't tell whether that is a lot of rust or just normal run-of-the-mill rust I shouldn't have to worry too much about.
I checked online and found that if a bolt/stud is rusted, and if I cannot get it loose by banging it with a hammer, I should torch it and let it cool before trying to loosen it again.
I would like to hear some anecdotes about loosening wheel studs. I went to Harbor Freight today to get a hammer. One guy told me I should get the 8 pounder with a long handle (looked to be 3 feet or longer), so it will be easier to aim and provide steady force. He said it would be like putting a golf ball. I was also looking to get a torch, and he said that I need to heat it until it glowed, so small propane bottle torch would not be enough. But he said for a relatively newer car like mine, a few taps with an 8-pound sledge hammer should be enough.
I am also concerned that I might end up breaking more stuff and have to replace the entire hub, which would be a costly proposition. How much would it cost if I took it to a mechanic?
Also, seeing that some of the other nuts didn't go in smoothly, would it do any good to replace all the lug nuts?
I was not able to just hammer the old stud out because the space behind hub is too close to allow it to come out so I cut it off with a metal blade and popped each piece out easily. Now the problem is getting a new one in. I rotate the hub looking for spot it will go in easily keeping it horizontal but it seems every way is going to force it in and it will ruin the threads. The end away from the threads has the wider cap and it prevents it from going into the hole straight. It doesn't appear to be easily accessible like the older Honda's. The way they have fabricated parts in this area makes it challenging.
View 3 RepliesSo I recently bought a GTI and started to fix a couple things. It has a P0420 code so I bought a new downpipe to install. Noticed the stock one was missing 1 of the nuts and the stud had broken off. How get this out? Do I need to remove the turbo? Looks like I do need to remove the turbo to use an extractor set.
View 7 RepliesOk at 40 mph and above I have a loud humming noise coming from my left front wheel. I replaced my rotor and pads due to normal wear. I also replaced the bearing. No fix. Tires were rotated a month ago. Could it be my CV joint? The boots are fine.
View 3 RepliesFixing top dash compartment latch on 2008 Elantra? Looks like the plastic piece that fits into top broke off.
View 2 RepliesUnfortunately I broke off one of the wheel studs on the front drivers side of my 2010 Prius. I got a new stud from Toyota but I'm not sure exactly how to put the new one on. Looking for any steps on how to replace a front wheel stud? Not even sure how to raise calipers/remove rotor (if that's necessary to replace stud)....
View 9 RepliesSo I was replacing a wheel stud and while taking the caliper out, I accidentally unscrewed the brake fluid bolt and it drained a little bit of fluid out. I had to decompress the caliper to put the brake pads in.
Everything was placed back the correct way, now the brake feels too spongy and I have to press the pedal all the way to stop the car. not feeling safe.
I'm not sure what needs to be done here.. did I somehow get air in the system? the brake fluid cap was on the whole time.
We just bought our 2008 Elantra. The door handle just fell off. I have a warranty and have been trying to get the dealership which has been futile. The handle is plastic. I am tempted to just glue it. This is not the greatest first problem to have right after buying the car and bein unable to reach the dealer.
View 2 RepliesThe last 2 times I have taken my 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan in for tire rotation, the service guy informed me that I had a broken bolt (one of the five) that holds the front wheel on. One time it was a left front wheel, next the right front wheel. They replaced the bolts and lug nuts. I told this to lots of people and no one has ever heard of wheel bolts breaking - on any car! I have rotated the tires regularly at other establishments and have never had this problem. My question: Is this unusual? A known problem with Dodges. Am I being "taken for a ride" by the dealer?
View 14 RepliesI need to replace one wheel stud on the passenger side rear. Read an old post that said jack up the car remove wheel spay the stud you need to knock out with WD 40 or PB Blaster. Wait 10 minutes smack it with a small sledge hammer and out it comes. Now I have done that on some older classics but is it that simple on the SC. I have not really jacked it up to give it a good inspection, but I would think you may need to remove the rear rotor and maybe the back cover I saw when I took a quick look under the car.
View 4 Repliesthis noise start like 4 month ago. I have taken the car to two mechanics and they weren't able to find where the noise is coming from. i suppose that the problem isnt really that tricky.
is kind hard to describe the nature of the sound.
mostly happen when i go over broken road or bumps where the suspension have to move up and down a little but very quickly
Hyundai Sonata 2006 Front susp noise
Driver's inside door handle no longer opens door. Need to lower window and open from outside. 2009 Sonata GL?
Apparently the plastic connector/retainer to the door latch cable is broken off so that the handle no longer moves the cable.
Does the replacement door handle come with the connector/retainer to the latch cable?
To complete this repair, does the whole inner door panel have to removed or simply the assembly around the door handle?
So I have a 2011 Elantra GLS with just over 20,000mi on it. I noticed today when I make a sharp left turn there is a grinding noise from the passenger front wheel. Almost sounds like the rotors are grinding on the shields. I am going to the dealer in two days to have it looked at, This is the only situation where I hear the noise.
View 2 RepliesHaving issues with noise from either LT or RT front wheel bearings? My 2011 Elantra has some sort of noise coming from the LT frt wheel
View 10 RepliesTonight it was a perfect 72 degrees and I had to run over to a friend's house and pick up my backpack as I didn't feel like riding my bike the ten miles home with that thing on my back. As I usually do when it's nice outside, I opened both front windows and the sunroof and immediately noticed a mid-level pitch grinding noise that comes and goes but is mostly noticeable at low speeds. Initially I thought it was the brakes dragging but it doesn't change with a brake application so I'm guessing it's the front wheel bearings. I'm calling the dealer in the morning to set up a service appointment.
View 1 RepliesMy parents own a 2013 Elantra 4-door (sedan) and for the last few months it's been making a metal grind/squeak. Here are the following characteristics:
-It occurs only during acceleration from a full stop or low speed. It would then disappear if we drive it longer or get to 60km/h.
-We've diagnosed it to the front right wheel.
-It sounds like the squeak at you get when your break pads are almost used up - metal on metal grinding squeak
-It seems to be temperature related as the squeaking occurs less during cooler temperatures - it comes back once (I assume) the wheel / brake / rotors are sufficiently warm.
We have brought it to a mechanic and he did hear the squeak. He took of the pads and re-lubed (not on the braking side obviously). No change. BTW the pads are still very beefy and is the original pads that came with the car.
Searching online it seems this issue is fairly common and it seems to be the brake pads. Is this what's happening to my parents' car? If so is it as simple as replacing the brake pads with a different brand?