My 2010 Elantra stalls while driving, even on the highway, and then won't restart right away. It has been at the dealer for a week now, and they have determined that the ECU is the problem.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2010 F150 SCREW with 4.6l 3v 4wd. Up to 100,000 miles nothing more than tires, brakes, and evap purge valve (50,000 miles). Check engine light came on right around 100,000 miles and had no driving problems other than some crappy fuel mileage. Did the following:
Changed evap purge valve, reset cpu by unplugging. CEL came back on after about 200 miles
Took the truck to a shop to get oil change, change plugs, diff fluids, transfer case fluid and get CEL looked at. Shop recommended changing intake gasket as you could see gummy type fluid on passenger side valve cover. When removing the intake found the intake cracked, changed gasket and intake. They reset the light. 200 to 250 miles later the CEL came back on.
Took it back to the same shop, left it with them for the weekend. they think it could be the O2 sensors. I went out and got the shop all 4 O2 sensors and they installed for free (seeing as I spent $2500 with them for all the previous weekends work) 200 to 250 miles CEL came back on
Determined to find time to have another shop look at the problem and trying to get it to a family friend, wasted about a month. At the end of February stopped at a friends house after being there for 20 minutes tried to start truck, it wouldn't fire. It would crank but no fire. Called for a tow and while waiting tried to crank the truck and it fired up, like nothing was wrong. Cancelled the tow truck and drove right to dealership. They determined it was the MAF sensor. Spent the $500 to have them diagnose and change MAF. All things good for about a month and about 3000 miles...
Now in the past 2 weeks it has done the following: I am a construction manager so i am in and out of my truck all day so the engine is never really a cold start except for the mornings when driving to work, it stalled while leaving work on a Friday at low speed. luckily I was able to pull in to a gas station. Tried to restart and it cranked but no fire. after 5 minutes or so tried again, fired up drove home the 35 miles with no problem, truck had power, smooth idle. No CEL.
Same weekend on Sunday, coming home from church at highway speed truck got sluggish, wrench light came on, no response to throttle. Rolled to a stop and then the oil light came on and chime from dash. Turned the key all the way off waited 10 seconds, again crank but no start. Waited 5 minutes and it fired up no problem. Church is only 3 or 4 miles away, no problem going to church, 2 miles into the trip home is when it stalled.
Drove all week, 500 plus miles without a stall or problem
Coming home on Saturday from my kids soccer game again 4 or 5 miles away (no problem going to game) truck stalled at highway speed. Coast to a stop, wrench comes on and then oil light, chimes from dash. Turn key off, wrench and oil light do not come back on. Try to start, again crank but no fire. waited the 5 minutes or so and it fired up fine. (Earlier in the day i got gas, 87 octane, from a one of my regular gas stations from 1/4 tank to full)
Today coming home from church but running an errant the truck stalls after making a left turn about 3 miles from the church at low speed.
All of this without a CEL. What can solve this problem. Clean a sensor? clean throttle body? Gas tank additives? I am due for an oil change and may ask the dealer to look at it but its going to be time consuming as I cant radially repeat the problem and there is no CEL. As I am thinking about the different times it stalled, other than the first time I was probably around 1900 to 2300 rpm.
My 6.0 stalls when its warm and it restarts no problem. no codes are given with scan gauge. No changes on icp or ipr when it happens. At idle icp ranges 577 to 737, fmp 47.5 to 48v, ipr 23 to 28, map 14.9, tfc .32. all at idle. all increase when rpm goes up. ive done the d plugs, sct plug ficm replaced 2 yrs ago. done egr delete, need to trouble shoot? Again no codes given...
View 14 Replieswhen car dies driving or idle- will not start for appx 30min after- cranks over immediately like it wants to, but will not actually start for about 30minutes... is this a sensor?
View 5 RepliesI am 1/2 way thru a 2 hour trip driving on interstate 75 in Florida doing about 75mph when all of the sudden I couldn't steer, had no dash lights with the exception of the radio plus the bluetooth still worked and braking was very difficult. I couldn't accelerate, nothing happened when I pushed the gas pedal. Neither turn signal worked but the emergency flashers did. Managed to get it on side of highway but then it got interesting; couldn't shift out of drive and couldn't turn the car off; I could turn the key but nothing happened. After sitting on the side of the road with my foot on the brake pedal for 30 minutes I tried turning the car off again and it magically worked. I sat there for about 10 minutes and thought I would turn the car on and see what happened; turned the key and it fired up like normal and everything was working just fine.
View 42 RepliesI have a 2009 Sonata 3.3, 80,000 miles. After getting fuel I stopped about 2-3 miles away, when driving after a restart threw a CEL. Went to autozone and they gave these codes (P2189 and P0153) and were telling me possibly O2 sensor or Vacuum leak. Engine seems to run fine. Not sure if related but while fueling, gas pump was sputtering and I thought oh no. Wonder if I got bad gas and if it could throw these codes? I have since threw a bottle of Techron in and drove about 5-7 miles. I have had major work done with Timing covers twice. So it is possible a line may have came off but that was a few thousand miles ago. I pulled the cover and looked for any visible hoses off, did not see any. Don't want to spray with carb cleaner since it is dark out. I am still under the 100,000 warranty, so not sure if this would even be covered or not or whether I am doing irreparable damage. I saw other posts mentioning PVC issues?
View 6 Replies06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
I'm having with my 2008 Elantra. In short, the car stalls when I'm at a stop, and then for a period of time, I cannot get the car in park or turn it off. When I am eventually able to get it to do so, I turn it back on, and it restarts like nothing ever happened. The full details are below. The dealership is clueless, and I am so upset/frustrated.
Three weeks ago, I was slowed down at a yield sign, and when I tried to inch forward, my car stalled. The radio, AC, etc. were all still on, but I could not move forward. I noticed the EPS light on on my dash. I also could not turn the wheel or shift the car into park (could only get it into neutral), and therefore, could not turn off the car/get the key out.
After cops pushed me into a parking lot, the car sat for a bit (still technically "on"). Eventually, a friend got in and forced the wheel to move a bit in each direction, and was able to put the car in park and turn it off. When we turned it back on, the engine started and everything appeared fine. I canceled the tow and drove it home.
I took the car to where I bought it and was told there was a technical service bulletin related to the powertrain control module, and they recommended I take it to the dealership to be fixed. The first Hyundai dealership I took it to said they addressed the TSB, and also recommended I clean out the fuel line as that may have been affecting it ($150). Because it had been awhile since I'd done anything like that and the work was relatively in expensive, I said sure, got my car back and went back to my life...
Fast forward to this week. I'm driving in rush hour traffic, and the SAME THING happens again. I immediately tried to move the wheel around to get the car in park and restart, to no avail. I called a tow. After some time passed, the same thing happened again -- we were able to get the car in park, turned it off, turned it back on and it seemed normal again.
I had the car towed to another Hyundai dealership, explained the situation and they tested and drove it around a bit over two days, but because they are unable to recreate the issue and no codes appear, they can't do anything for me.
My 2011 Camry XLE 6 cylinders, 50000 miles, stalls in a wet weather when it has being driven over standing water. Last time, about two weeks ago, it was rainy and I was driving with lots of running water around. Suddenly, car stalled and I could not restart it. I kept trying to restart, but all attempts failed and I called for tow truck. It would run for a few seconds with lots of light on the dashboard and stall. I was waiting for an hour and a half, rain stopped an hour after my car stalled and I was able to start the car and drive home. Next morning I started to drive in rain and dashed board lights started to light on. During next two weeks I showed the car to two very experienced mechanics and they could not find any problem.
View 2 Replies93" chevy, k 1500 305 engine, stalled, then hard to restart lots of black smoke, fuel, no air? Bad mixture? When it starts it backfires, runs rough black smoke, and stalls again. dist. module ck. o.k. cap and rotor good.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 Nissan Xterra. About a month ago it stalled while I was backing out of a parking spot. When I turned the key, the engine turned over but wouldn't start. A few minutes later it started and I drove it on a long road trip. It was fine until today when it stalled when my husband was going around a corner. He waited a few minutes then it started. Now tonight he started it, drove down the block and it stalled again. This time it won't restart.
View 1 RepliesI have a 07 Elantra with 68,000 miles. I am having a cold start issue. When the car sits overnight and I attempt to start/place the car into gear (auto), the car will stall. This occurs whether the car is placed in forward/reverse and with the a/c on/off. The vehicle will start fine the rest of the day with no issues.
View 8 Replies1990 Celica 2.2 liter, 5SFE manual trans car with 239k miles.The car occasionally stalls after it is warm and won't restart. When is is cold she fires right up as it does most of the time when she is warm. To restart he sprays starter fluid in the intake or waits until it cools down. Also as the car gets warm the idle decreases to around 650. Adjusted idle speed to 750 but no effect. The only code is 1-2, low or no RPM, measured the RPM sensor air gap and within spec, measured the sensor resistance and within spec. sensor wiring and connector looked good, measured the temp sensor and within spec, disconnected the EGR vacuum line and no effect. Problem occurs once or twice a week but at the most embarrassing place.
View 4 Replies2000 Sierra 2500 pickup truck. What would cause my truck to stall randomly and not start? Then after waiting a while it will start.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Chevy Impala is taking a long time to crank. Now after 10 minutes or so of either idiling or driving, the car stalls out. I am able to restart it. Replaced the battery and no change. Lights are not getting dim in any way so I figure it's not the alternator. Could it be a bad starter?
View 2 Replies2003 Prius starts then stalls (shudders bad) then starts right after with no problem.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1995 GMC Sanoma, 2.2 Lt, 4 cyl, 5 spd. It has about 130K miles. Each day I drive it back and forth to work (about 30 miles one way). About 6 months ago I noticed that at about 5 miles into my drive to work it would stutter but then catch itself and go on the rest of the way with no problems. On the drive home it would do the same thing at about 8 miles into the drive. This didn't really bother me until one day instead of stuttering it stalled but I could restart it right away while coasting. It had steadily gotten worse to where I had to pull over on the side of the road and restart because it wouldn't restart right away. Nowadays I hardly drive it at all because I'm afraid it will stall and not restart at all. I have replaced the air idle control, fuel pump relay and the positive battery cable. The symptons now are basically the same but different, I can start it (anytime, morning or evening) and it will idle fine for about 5-10 minutes. It will then start to stutter and try to catch itself, the idle will then rev up to about 1500 and then come back down and stutter some more before stalling. After that it will not start back up until maybe 10 minutes after, (it acts like it is not getting any fuel) but once it starts it runs fine, I drove it around for about 20 miles and it ran real strong. The next day it went through this same cycle again.
View 1 Replies96 teg 1.8 non vtech after a while it will lose spark some times it runs for a few days then loses spark but will start up with in 10 min sometimes it just just stalls out and loses spark but restarts with in 10 minutes.
View 1 RepliesMy '96 Dakota SLT 6-cylinder pickup backfired and blew a hole in my muffler ... I've had it in three different shops on six occasions since and the thing still hiccups, backfires, stalls ... most of the electrical switches and sensors have been replaced ... right before it back fires, it feels like it is going to stall, then "POW" ... sometimes it continues to run fine for a little while after that ... then it happens again ... When it stalls it feels like it is running out of gas ... it is almost impossible to restart right away, but if I wait a few minutes, the starts right up ...
View 1 Repliesmy daughter has a 91 volvo 240 with a 4cyl and auto. roughly 100000 miles. it starts and runs fine but after driving it, if it is shut off for less than 30 min, then she tries to start it again, it stalls immediately. she can keep her foot on the gas slightly and drive it the distance of a parking lot, the car will run fine and not stall. i was curious if a tune up would fix this or if there is a smaller fix such as a sensor.
View 1 RepliesTwice now in the past week, my 2001 Jetta has become possessed. While driving along, the radio turns off. Then the warning lights all come on. If I use the turn signal the radio springs back to life and other weird electrical things happen. Eventually the car stalls. When I try to restart it, the warning lights all come on and the dashboard makes a click-click-clicking sound, and that's it. The first time, my mechanic said the alternator wasn't working correctly, but that he revved the engine and it kicked in. He then tested the alternator and battery and said both were ok. Is this an alternator problem? Something else?
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