Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Overheating - Temp Almost Hit Max And Warning Light Came On
Aug 1, 2016
My 2013 Elantra twice now has almost overheated. About a month ago i had the software patch related to the cooling fan done. Since then, twice the temp almost hit max and the warning light came on. Both times i had driven it in 80 degree weather with 3 short trips to various stores. Both times the air conditioning seemed to stop working and the gauge started to rise to max. The second time i turned off the car and restarted it and everything returned to normal. If it happens again i will check to see if the cooling fan is on. It seems to me that turning it off and on to fix would be a software glitch. The car has 30000 miles on it.
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I have a 98 Buick Century, with about 250k miles on it. Recently when I first start the car and drive a few miles the temperature gauge keeps rising until it is in the red zone and a warning light comes on. When I pull of to the side of the road after a bit it begins to slowly drop and I can begin to drive again. The gauge will then normally stay a bit above halfway for the remainder of the trip, the gauge has sometimes done a bit of jumping around between 3/4 and half sometimes though. The only work that I have had done on it recently is to have some work done on the ac system.
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So my 2005 elantra gls has been having overheating problems. A few weeks ago, it overheated one day driving around town for about 30 minutes. I kicked on the heater and made it home. I went out the next day and didn't see any problems. Everything went fine for two weeks, then yesterday the problem happened again. I read about the thermostat often failing, so I did some research on that and replaced it today.
For replacing the thermostat, I followed the lower hose and found the housing, removed it and took out the old thermostat. Removed the old gasket, cleaned around the connection, dried it off. Then I put the new thermostat in , put some gasket sealer down and putthe new gasket on. Finally, put some more sealer on the outside of the gasket and put the housing back on.
After replacing it and immediately turning on the car, I got a High Oil Temp code. I cleared the code and let the car idle for while. After about 15 minutes I went for a drive around the neighborhood and then took it out on the highway for about 10 minutes. It started overheating by the time I got home. I turned it off and when starting it again I get the High Oil Temp code.
Is it possible that I didn't do something correctly with the thermostat. If not, what else could I look for and could I have bumped/damaged the oil temp sensor?
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Experiencing cooling problems with a truck this new? My 2 month old supercrew 5.0 began over heating on a road trip last week. After about 400 miles of driving I see coolant temp start climbing until the overheating warning popped up. Pulled over, turned engine off, popped the hood and did not notice any obvious signs of overheating. Ended up waiting about 15 minutes, started truck up again, temp gauge reading 1/2.
Get back on the road, within 5 min temp starts climbing again, reaches ~ 3/4 then all of a sudden returns to 1/2. Continue on 10 min later temp gauge climbs from 1/2 to overheating quickly. I pulled over again same situation no obvious signs of overheating, but allow sometime to cool off. Started truck again temp gauge reads 1/2. Continue driving and temp gauge seems possessed, going from 1/2 to 3/4 back to 1/2 to almost overheating as I nursed it to the next dealer that I could find.
Dealer tech was able to mimic the problem and believes that coolant is not flowing properly. Thermostat replaced, water pump pulled and inspected, air bleed out of the system, all with no improvement. Now heads are being pulled/replaced to see if this solves the problem. Its depressing to have my new truck with 2,382 miles sitting under the knife at the dealer.
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I am just wondering how much mileage is left when the low gas warning light comes on? For my 2015 Elantra, the light comes on when the computer says there's about 100km left, but I don't know how accurate that is. I do keep track of my fuel economy, so it's simple match if I know how much gas is left in the tank. My owner's manual says the car has a 48 litre gas tank. When the warning light comes on and I fill it up at the gas station, it usually fills 39-40 litres before the "click". That would mean there's still 8-9 litres left before filling up. But is there actually 48 litres in the car at the "click" or is 48 litres just the complete maximum and the "click" comes on before that (e.g. a full tank is really only 45 litres compared to the stated 48)? What's the furthest you've driven with the low gas warning light on?
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My warning light for my tire pressure came on, I fixed the tires and now it won't go off. Is there a reset button I need to press? I can't find it in the manual ...
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TPMS warning light is sometimes on, sometimes flashes, sometimes off. Only 2800 miles. Checked your pressures @ 38 psi. Have had no tire issues, nails. Etc. Took to dealer today. Service advisor said too much air in tires. Lowered to 35 psi. I have doubts about their"fix". Time will tell.
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Before someone says "normal" I know the low temp light is supposed to come on until the car reaches normal operating temp My problem is really strange and my mechanic and I are both perplexed. I have a 2008 Yaris automatic sedan with 98K miles on it.
The symptoms:
After driving for quite a while (30 minutes or more at times) the low temp light will come on... and sometimes goes right out... and sometimes goes on for a while.
If the check engine light isn't already on - it will eventually go on.
Sometimes with the low temp light is on - it will race the engine (just straight high rev) OR it will pulse the engine (like I am pumping the gas peddle) OR it will not let the car shift into high gear (rare). Remember... all of this happens after the car has been running for while so it warmed up.
What we've tried (over a 4 week period now):
The error code indicates to replace the thermostat - so we've replaced it... twice. We've replaced the actual low temp sensor. We've checked the wiring between the sensors and the computer - wiring does not appear to have a short. Last week we replaced the computer with a used one, but the same problem still exists with a replaced computer...
What the mechanic says now:Might be an air conditioning thing running the fan too long?
Can you really run a fan so long it will drop the car temp back to below the low range operating temperature while driving on a highway? That seems pretty unlikely to me.... If it were just a flickering light, I wouldn't be so concerned... but because it revs the engine (even when I am at a stop light and I have to push the brake harder so it won't start moving) and it sometimes wont shift into high gear... it's concerning from a safety perspective.
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I got my 2003 Mini Cooper out of the shop about 3 weeks ago.. They replaced the damper, the serpentine belt, thermostat, coolant gasket seal, rear rotors/breaks, bleeding of the breaks, and inner cv boot. Noted to get the oil pan gasket replace which i planned on doing in the upcoming week when i got an oil change but they put beside it was light leakage. All Power Steering was redone under a recall warranty mid July.
Yesterday earlier that morning my battery light came on but than proceeded to try off by the time i was back home. I drive my car in the afternoon, i notice that my battery light is on and continued to stay on. Then my temperature gauge goes all the way up. i open the hood, its nothing noticeably different. I sit there for quite some time and i drive it again to see if it would overheat. I drove about 3 miles to my in-laws and the car no longer overheated. I decide to drive it down to the AutoZone to check my battery and she tells me it weak to leave the car running to see if it recharges but thinks something pulling on the battery. (the battery is new barely over a year old) During the drive to the autozone and back to my mother in laws the car doesn't overheat but the battery light remains on. I leave the car running in the driveway a bit later i notice the car is smoking, literally hear the antifreeze boil in the car,antifreeze is all over the ground, and the temperature gauge is running hot but the cars fan was not running.
i'm not sure if these problems are connected but i never had either of these problems prior to get it worked on. My car has always started strong. The alternator could be going but all lights, electronics,door-locks, windows, heated seat are working. Furthermore, the car starts so strong every time, haven't had any symptoms of a bad alternator.I read it could be a belt issue but the belt and damper are newly replaced.
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I just drove the GLI from pa to myrtle beach for vacation. On the way back I noticed the temp was steadily rising while idling at a red light then at a gas station. Coolant level is fine. Thermostat, water pump, thermostat, and both temp sensors were recently replaced in the last two months.
So I know none of those things are a variable. Both fans never come on. I tried turning on the ac to get them to come on. But nothing. I read as much as I could on forums to find a solution but none applied to my specific problem.
Car is completely stock besides p flow intake. Has 153000 miles I'm pretty sure everything involving fan is original.
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I have a 2004 Grand Prix and it is displaying the symptoms of overheating but the temp gauge is not going above normal operating temp. I replaced the thermostat twice, and after driving for about 10-20 mins coolant comes out of the overflow. I'm at a loss, I'm thinking temp sensor(?) But I don't want to keep throwing unnecessary money into it. The fans work fine, the heater blows as it should.
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Car was running fine on friday when I left for detroit, it sat in my driveway all weekend, but on the way to work this morning I get a warning light to STOP and my temp gauge is right below 260. It took about 10 miles for the light to come on and the car does NOT overheat while idling. The car is only at 52k and I have not replaced the water pump/timing belt yet.
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I keep good maintenance for my car. Just had the 45,000 mile major tune up also. However, the engine overheating light came on the other day - said I should idle until it cooled down. I was just about to park, so I did that and left to do some shopping. When I came back and started the drive home the light came on again and indicated I should stop and turn the engine off. I drove two more blocks and put the car in the garage. I noticed what I thought was some leakage on the garage floor also. Next AM, I had it towed to the dealership since I'd checked the coolant dipstick and it looked EMPTY!. Dealership tested it out and could find nothing wrong - no leaks, no computer faults either. They sent me on my way and neither warning light has come on since. I've kept an eye on the engine temperature gauge and it hovers around 200F - mid range on the gauge. No further problems. Funny thing is, now my A/C seems to operate better!
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Couldn't find a post for my year, but, I have a 2012 Elantra. I drive about a mile and I see 4-5 bars on my dash for the water temp. Is this common?
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I've seen lots of posts about the traction battery regarding cooling fan speeds, sensors, overheating, under charged, but is there a dash light that warns the batteries are overheating before they are damaged ? I'm worried about someone riding in the back of the car, covering the vent and causing battery damage. It is hard to see if they are covering the vents when you are sitting in the front driver seat.
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I have a 2014 elantra limited and have noticed heater issues. The heat never gets hot until the temp is set to higher levels. For example 25c /77 f is just lukewarm I need to set the temp up as high as 28c/82f or higher to get decent heat. Anything below 24c is like having the air conditioning on. It also seems to fluctuate at time, blowing warmer air and then turning cold. Coolant is topped up, no visible leaks i.e., nothing on the garage floor.
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My son recently bought a 2012 GLS. The temp gauge was fluctuating and I noticed the overflow was really low. I added coolant and warmed the car up with no change. After it cooled a little, I cracked the radiator cap and heard bubbling air. Upon complete removal of the cap, I saw no fluid, however, the cap is above the radiator where the hoses connect. I added coolant directly to this opening until I could see it. Closed everything up and warmed up the car. Temp gauge is now steady 1 mark below half way. The question is, did I add enough coolant? and should I see coolant inside the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold?
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I have a 2006 Prius with 176k miles on it. I drive it about 65 miles each way to work every day. If I really baby the throttle, no warning lights ever come on, and the heat will take about 45 minutes to kick in. If I use the gas a little more aggressively, the heat will start working after about 30 minutes when I get on the freeway and speed up, BUT the high temperature warning light will intermittently come on. First, the red triangle Warning light will come on, followed by "PROBLEM" on the display followed by a red temperature indicator.
Typically it flickers off after just a few seconds, but sometimes the temp light stays on for longer, maybe 30 seconds or a minute before it shuts off. Then it continues to go on and off every few minutes for as long as I'm on the freeway. It doesn't seem to be directly related to when I hit the gas. I have checked the coolant level and it looks fine.
I bought the car back around 2010 when it had just received it's 100k mile maintenance and they had also just replaced the water pump. I haven't looked at the OBD-II codes, if there are any. I have never replaced the 12v battery. The lights are pretty annoying/alarming and I'm not sure if it's "normal" for the heat to take 30-45 minutes to come on. Maybe the 12v battery or the inverter pump need to be replaced?
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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You know the ticking noise that is normal for our engines? Well, below 25 degrees F, it is the most worst noise ever. It sounds like the valve train is going to explode. Just keep in mind I've driven many cars. The ticking noise shouldn't be outrageously loud.
But my main problem that is worrying me is this WHOMP-WHOMP-WHOMP noise. The higher the RPM the faster the noise. Doesn't matter if the car is moving or not and I know it's coming from the engine. I hope it's not related to the loud ticking. It only happens for approximately 5 minutes. After that, there's no WHOMP sound and the ticking goes back to normal sound levels.
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Whilst about half way into an 8 hour drive to NYC my engine temp warning light goes off.
Blast the heater and pull over at the next closest rest stop.
No leak to be found. Looks as though the coolant level is okay Burk can't tell since the car hasn't cooled down yet. Engine bay doesn't seem crazy good. No strange smells.
Turn the car off then on and the warning turns off. I let the car cool for 20 min then back on the road. Warning comes on again on the highway.
What it could be? Possibly the thermostat? Could this fix itself?
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