Elantra MD (2010-15) :: 2014 - Heater Never Gets Hot Until Temp Is Set To Higher Levels
Oct 12, 2016
I have a 2014 elantra limited and have noticed heater issues. The heat never gets hot until the temp is set to higher levels. For example 25c /77 f is just lukewarm I need to set the temp up as high as 28c/82f or higher to get decent heat. Anything below 24c is like having the air conditioning on. It also seems to fluctuate at time, blowing warmer air and then turning cold. Coolant is topped up, no visible leaks i.e., nothing on the garage floor.
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Does the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
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I bought a new 2014 Elantra last Monday. Around 100 miles (Wednesday) I noticed it was making a ticking noise when accelerating. The sound gets louder at higher RPMs and goes away when I get off of the accelerator. You can't hear it over the radio but it's embarrassing when my passengers do. It almost sounds like a puff of air escaping or something, similar to a go-kart engine lol.
Anyways, I took it to the dealer Thursday and they drove it and said the noise was normal during the engines break-in period and if it persists after 15k to bring it back and they would see if there was something that needed tightening.
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I'm up to 102k on my 2007 Azera Ltd. In the last two weeks I started getting a grinding/rattle type noise when I turn my AC/Fan up to the higher levels. When it's on low/mid you can't hear anything. Does this mean the compressor is starting to go or is this something else going on?
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Coolant temps getting much higher than oil temps under load. Is there any problem that could cause this other than a bad temperature sensor? Reading temps with an Edge CTS 2 monitor. Think I'm going to hook up a mechanical gauge in the morning and see what it shows.
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2010 camry 4 cylinder, Heater/ac air flow control not working. Only blows air to defroster which it has no temp control.
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Is there a typical cause for whistling noise on Elantra ? Mine is a 2011. The whistling noise started recently, and occurs only at high speed say 80 kph and higher. It definitely sounds like wind noise, constant frequency no matter the speed. Does not sound like brake noise or belt noise, and does not change with changes in accelerator or brakes. I have taped up most gaps around the front of the car, including all around the windshield, with no impact. Note that I recently fixed a windshield wiper washer nozzle, which necessitated the removal of the plastic assembly that sits atop the bottom part of the windshield. The re-installation went well and everything seems well seated down (I had to replace 4 plastic rivets).
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I have a 2012 elantra limited about 9 month's old with about 14,000 miles on it.
About a week ago I began noticing a burning smell. I first chalked it up to being 1,000 over the 3k mark for an oil change. However I then started to pay attention when I parked if there was any sign of fluids leaking. At first I didn't notice any or seemed like one or two drips. Well tonight I noticed a larger puddle that was def not water.
The other symptom is that it's been shifting up at higher RPMs. Tonight when I got on the freeway I was trying to speed up to 65 but the rpm gauge had me at over 4,000 rpms with normal acceleration...I was not gunning it. I also could not get the car to go past 60 at first, all the while the rpm increasing still, until I let off the gas then hit it again and seemed to trip it to shift and was able to get to 65.
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Today was the first day I drove my Elantra on the interstate with the sunroof open. When I was cruising at 65-70mph, I kept hearing a noise that I thought was coming from another car. It sort of sounded like a popping or thumping noise. After a few minutes, I reached my hand up and noticed the sound was coming from the metal bar that rises up a little at the front of the opening when the glass slides back. The wind was vibrating it and making it flap in the wind.
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I have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
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We have a 2013 Elantra. This evening we washed the car and when we started up again, the heater / ac fan inside the cabin would not blow air. I looked at the fuse panel by the driver's left knee and checked the 3 fuses labeled 'blower'. They were all fine. There are a couple of fuses under the hood that are also labeled 'blower' but I'm not sure which of them might be the one I'm looking for?
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My truck just had it's check up at the dealership. On the slip it stated ATF fluid on rear housing. The tech said "No big deal maybe take a better look and maybe replace rear gasket later down the road". So first where is the check hole as I know there is no dip stick plus I think you use your finger to figure level. How far up should it be? I go over my truck about once a month looking for stuff and would like to include in my inspections.
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I have noticed on my 2011 Elantra, that the heated seat no longer remains on. I turn it on, level 1 or level 2, and a second later it turns off.
This only happens for the driver seat, passenger seat works fine. Why this might be?
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My 2013 Elantra twice now has almost overheated. About a month ago i had the software patch related to the cooling fan done. Since then, twice the temp almost hit max and the warning light came on. Both times i had driven it in 80 degree weather with 3 short trips to various stores. Both times the air conditioning seemed to stop working and the gauge started to rise to max. The second time i turned off the car and restarted it and everything returned to normal. If it happens again i will check to see if the cooling fan is on. It seems to me that turning it off and on to fix would be a software glitch. The car has 30000 miles on it.
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Couldn't find a post for my year, but, I have a 2012 Elantra. I drive about a mile and I see 4-5 bars on my dash for the water temp. Is this common?
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Recently purchased a 2016 Elantra. All was working well with car. Now, all of a sudden, when I turn on car via remote start the heater isnt coming on like it did before. It wont turn on until I put key in ignition. I had to get a new remote recently and seems like thats when it started to happen, but I cant be sure. Is it possible the remote was programmed incorrectly? Or is it more likely a fuse or relay issue?
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My son recently bought a 2012 GLS. The temp gauge was fluctuating and I noticed the overflow was really low. I added coolant and warmed the car up with no change. After it cooled a little, I cracked the radiator cap and heard bubbling air. Upon complete removal of the cap, I saw no fluid, however, the cap is above the radiator where the hoses connect. I added coolant directly to this opening until I could see it. Closed everything up and warmed up the car. Temp gauge is now steady 1 mark below half way. The question is, did I add enough coolant? and should I see coolant inside the radiator cap when the vehicle is cold?
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My 2011 is at 45k miles now and I've just noticed that my radiator coolant is just under the 'low' mark and my inverter coolant is on the 'low' line. I've had all regular maintenance done, never done any of it myself just because I'm not confident enough in myself to think I won't mess something up. Should I be concerned about having 'low' coolant levels?
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You know the ticking noise that is normal for our engines? Well, below 25 degrees F, it is the most worst noise ever. It sounds like the valve train is going to explode. Just keep in mind I've driven many cars. The ticking noise shouldn't be outrageously loud.
But my main problem that is worrying me is this WHOMP-WHOMP-WHOMP noise. The higher the RPM the faster the noise. Doesn't matter if the car is moving or not and I know it's coming from the engine. I hope it's not related to the loud ticking. It only happens for approximately 5 minutes. After that, there's no WHOMP sound and the ticking goes back to normal sound levels.
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I have a 2010 F-150 which has a problem that the dealer cannot figure out. When I leave the heater/air on when I shut the truck off upon restart the heater/air is off. The heater/air will turn on if I restart the truck within a few minutes but if it is left for say 15mins it seems the truck forgets where the heater switch was upon shut down. This causes a huge problem for my remote starter as the selection I need does not come on after leaving the vehicle for a time.
The codes for the truck are OK according to the dealer.
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Ford Tech. told me today the reason my a/c wouldn't cool is I have a bad evap. temp. sensor and this part was "non-replaceable" the fix is a HVAC Box from ford, (price includes a h/core replacement since dash would already be out) it has 85000 miles 2010 f150 Screw 4x4.is this my only option for repairing my a/c.
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