Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Loss Of Power On Acceleration / RPMs Surge Up Very Slowly
Feb 28, 2013
So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
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So my 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS with 80,000 miles, I bought it with 70,000 off of Craigslist to use as a daily driver while i rebuild my honda s2000. Anyways the trouble I am having is that on a cold start the engine idle is almost normal like it should be but the engine just runs really rough and shakes. I do not have a misfire. However the current check engine light was an evap light in which i just removed the charcoal box completely from the system and closed off the vacuum lines. I then unhooked the battery and of course the light went off. I drove it down the road and ir still has the power loss but the cel did not come back. So cel fixed and i hoped the idle would improve but it hasn't. I do not know what to do next...I have read in other threads to check the intake gasket and i will i was just wondering, what this problem could be and how to fix it. As for emissions i don't really care. I have a buddy that will pass the inspection.
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Driving in sunny so cal yesterday never a problem with the car just an oxygen sensor- I was cruising along at 75 and all of a sudden the oil light comes on - immediate loss of power and i pull over to the side of the road and shut it down. try to restart and it just clicks.....tugged on the crank through the wheel well and it will not budge...oil is ok and plugs were pulled and they seem fine....oil pump...fuel pump....starter hopefully something simple and inexpensive I hope.....what is the difficulty in changing out the starter and could this be the issue?
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Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
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Since I bought my car and driven it I noticed the acceleration noise and feel more and more. At slow speeds and rpms the engine sounds like its struggling to accelerate. It isn't smooth like a constant climb. Its a winding up acceleration. From a stop you can feel it shake the car up to 3000 rpms then it goes away. It idles somewhat rough and you can feel it throughout the cabin and the exhaust sounds putter in at idles instead of a steady drone. I suspect a fuel filter as of I have changed my oil, spark plugs, and air filter. Could it be a timing belt or something like that? It also has a very very small leak around the valve cover gasket bolts.
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I have a 2005 Honda Odyssey with about 190k miles on it. About a year ago (175k), we had our Transmission replaced with a re-manufactured transmission from the Honda Dealer. Now almost a year later, we were driving home on the freeway (about 4 hrs of highway driving) when we smelled and saw smoke coming from our hood. No lights or indicators came on. We also started losing power and the RPMs were high.
We pulled over in a gas station and popped the hood. A guy who said he was a mechanic took a look and thought it was the radiator host leak...suggested we add water and limp the rest of the way home. We did this and had no issues for the remaining 40 minutes of driving. The next day we brought it to our normal mechanic (not a Honda dealer) and he said it was transmission fluid ...thought that the transmission fluid that was splattered all over our engine/hood/wheels.
When we took it to the honda dealer (since we were still under warranty for the Honda transmission), they looked at it, cleaned it up and ran tests. They are saying that other than being low 2 qts of Trans fluid, they don't see any leaks/problems with the transmission, even after test driving it. They are wondering if the transmission cap was not tight or left off, causing the fluid to overheat, etc (I'm sure it wasn't left off as we have been driving it for months since our last check up without issue).
They say they can't replace it under warranty unless they can confirm some issue in their diagnostic tests. How can we have 2 qts of transm fluid splatter all over our engine and there not be a problem they can diagnose? Did they not give it enough time (e.g 4 hr long distance drive) to heat up enough to replicate the problem? The question now is...is it safe to keep driving the van (after doing a transm flush) or are we just asking for trouble until the next episode? How can I convince the dealer that there is a problem and have the transmission replaced under warranty?
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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We have a 2002 Sante Fe with v6 and 270,000 km on it. Just had extreme loss of power and jerky acceleration from a stop. This has happened a few times in the past year and each time with a 1/4 tank of fuel? We pulled into a gas station, filled it up and away we go like nothing was wrong?
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2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS ... I don't know what is going on with my car. When I start it, put it in gear and try to pull out, it feels like there is a loss of power. A few seconds later, the power returns . I can push my foot down, and the engine doesn't rev, but then it's like all of a sudden the engine realizes I have my foot down and takes off.
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Mine is 2006 with 130k miles. Just replaced fuel filter, air filter, cleaned air flow sensor and cleaned the injectors. The car still feels slow and it seems to eat more fuel than before. The spark plugs and the wires seems to be ok. No warning or error on dash is displayed.
When push the accelerator it takes a while to respond starting from stop position, and when the car is moving and try go faster it feels like lazy so I have remove the feet of the pedal and push it again so it respond quickly.
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2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
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My friend has a 2003 4 cyl auto Elantra. His problem is strange, while driving the car is normal for maybe 1 - 5 hours then out of nowhere the car will only go 15-35mph and no matter how much you press the gas pedal the car will not accelerate. It is a bogged down loss of power not like it's just stuck in a low gear. This has been happening for a while now but now it's happening all the time and very frequently. Before he could shut the car off for 5 minutes and it would be ok for another 1-5 hours. It got so bad that he can only go 20 miles before it happens and now it seems the longer he lets the car sit off the longer he can go before the problem happens. Hyundai has had the car for a week and still have no clue what the problem is but it has not happened while they have had it. There is no CEL or any stored codes which is making this really hard.
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Firstly, I've had an extensive look through the forum for existing threads dealing with this issue and have found a couple that seem to match... however I'm not entirely sure because noted that they had the car CEL come on... My wife's car doesn't. These threads dealt with gear shift flare, range selector switch faults, ECM reprogram - RPM flatspot... All except the latter noted that the CEL light came on...
Our problem - Loss of power and speed at 100km/h (auto trans)
In fourth gear (auto) traveling at 100km/h, RPM at this stage has settled to around 2100-2300. Then kicks down into 3rd (I'm assuming) with RPM just above 3000, and with little acceleration slowly build up to 100km/h and then start losing.
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On light acceleration, it has a light stumble or surge and is very slow. On hard acceleration it makes a lot of noise, but isn't even fast enough. I can feel it shift through the gears, and can feel the converter lock up when it's supposed to. Any attempt to climb a slight hill or pass a car, it downshifts to what seems like 2 gears down, and has a loud roaring noise, but I don't feel the acceleration. At steady speed, it feels like it's hunting for a steady RPM, but can't find it.
I just had a timing belt replaced. Had the mech double check to make sure marks are correct. He did a cranking compression test and said they were all between 165-170 psi (is that a little high for a 150K mile car?). He smoke tested the intake system and found no leaks.
It does have codes stored for cat converter and a lean code-bank 1.
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Almost two weeks ago, I began to have a problem with my car. (2001 Elantra) At times it acted like it was about to stall as I was driving up the smallest incline. Once I got up the incline, my car would jump gears. (second to third, so on)...
The car was taken to Advanced Auto where I received codes about the catalytic converter and the output sensor. I've known about the converter since I bought the car last year and the sensor was replaced. But I am still having problems with the car. My friend is literally having to drive it like it was a stick.
We fear it might be the transmission as I you can go in reverse with no problem. What it could be instead of the transmission?
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This car has turned into a bad dream. When it first starts in runs well for a mile or so until it warms all the way up. Then it goes into starvation mode and won't accelerate. Maybe a cough or two then it runs fine for 10 or so seconds. And goes back to stumbling. Most times I have to pull over out of traffic and wait for it to so call catch again.
I have changed plugs, wires, coil rack & fuel pump module. Because someone else looked at it before I did, they erased stored codes. I have pulled 2 codes on 2 different occasions. The first was P0134 the second was P1166. Other times no codes were stored. I did notice that if I shut off ignition & restart it runs great for 10 or 15 seconds.
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My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
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I got a problem with my 03 elantra, recently the car had a problem of stalling. I replaced the crank shaft sensor and that fix the problem, but the car always when idle and then press the gas to go feels like it has no power at all then all the sudden all power kicks in it only does that for a second when i press the gas. What I did was to replace the fuel filter that actually was extremely dirty,but no change i guess it could be the fuel pressure regulator.
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I'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
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2002 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 6cyl 100,000 miles
Symptom, loss of horse power (from a stop and going uphill), surge or lunge forward when accelerating (misfire?), rough idle (occasional knock). Maintenance, regularly change all filters and fluids, recently had the m.a.f cleaned and changed air filter, spark plugs and wires, oil.
There have been times in the past year or so when the car would crank but not start. Especially when the car was hot. Wait a couple minutes and it would start. Also a couple of times the car would shake fairly hard when started, get up to speed and it was fine.
I have had people tell me anything from a clogged catalytic converter to bad fuel injectors or fuel pump.
Scanned the car last week. No codes showed up. Never had a Check Engine Light.
I forgot to mention that every once and a while the car will jerk when accelerating. I have a coworker who said his truck started to jerk forward and later would not start at all. Our mechanic said it was the fuel pump. I I will see what that does for him.
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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