After tracking a howling sound from my 02 elantra gt pulley are, I figured it to be the water pump bearing. I replaced the water pump less then a year and a half ago and was wondering if its common for aftermarket pumps to go fast? Or is there anything I did wrong installing?
View 1 RepliesJust finished installing a new water pump on my 2002 Elantra GT when...
I went to start it, and it started for half a second and died. Further attempts to start were strained.
The battery is showing 12.58 volts on the multimeter so this was likely not the cause. I checked the fuses under the hood which all looked good. I don't know if it could be a relay or anything else electrical.
Other than the electrical side, there are two things I can think of that may be the cause.
First, being in a hurry to finish(which is probably the biggest mistake of all) I reconnected the battery too soon and wound up connecting the ground(I thought) wire to the alternator for a second causing an arc. I immediately removed the wire and followed proper procedures to reinstall it.
The only other thing I can think of is that one of the water pump bolts required removal of the idler pulley. The idler pulley demands the loosening of the timing belt tensioner in order to be reinstalled. Before removing anything I marked the position of the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket as well as the crankshaft sprocket so I'm really hoping I haven't lost timing.
Could it be something electrical? Did I over-tighten a belt or pulley? Is it timing?
I replaced a water pump on a customers 2013 5.0L truck this week. The bearing was totally shot and lost all the coolant. Truck only had 46000 miles on it, is this common?
View 7 RepliesHad a howling noise that sounded like a bearing going out. After searching, I see that the fan belt is actually sliding on the pulley. Looks like a vertical alignment problem. It could be the idler pulley, the fan pulley or possibly the lower Crank (?) pulley knocking it out. I can see the belt sliding approx 3/8 to 1/2 inch . At idle it sits closer to the engine, as rev it seems to line up. All this action certainly means the belt is shot. But could be idler too.
I went through a few things to check it out. I looked at the power steering unit, pulled off the belt and check if there was any obvious play in each of the pulleys. All seemed ok. The idler seemed rough running but no wobble of play in it. I will replace the idler anyway since I bought one. The belt has no damage to it. It was changed about a year ago. So it's just been wandering on the fan pulley. Went to the Crank pulley and the dampener .and it feels tight. There are some obvious small plastic cracks on the outside. friend suggest pulling on the pulley and look for separation between the inner, outer, and rubber ring in between. Felt and looked tight. After I change the idler anyways, I'll look again. But could the crank dampener still be bad?
I'm working on a 02 explorer. The front end is howling so I replaced the left side and no change. The howl goes away when braking. Is it the right side then or something else? I replaced both front brakes pads so it's not that.
View 2 RepliesMy truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
My 2002 Elantra Gls 1.8 got some weird sound coming from all 4 corners of the wheel... Recently I had replaced the front wheel bearing as the car goes very noisy when come into corners... But there still some knock... knock... sound after the car warming up especially from rear wheel.
I replaced all 4 absorbers 1 year ago as well as the tie-rods end... Still facing the same problems, the mechanic also don't know where to start...
What should I replace to settle the problem??? All the rubber bush??? Recently mileage on my car is 190000miles.
After doing some searching I was unable to find what exactly would cause a water pump to create a knocking sound and was wondering how or why a water pump for a 350 (5.7l) would knock.
The other day I had to change the water pump on my '96 k2500 (w/ 5.7l). Bought a brand new pump and put it on, refilled the coolant. No odd noises. Heater blew out very hot air, too. Drove for about 20 miles then parked it for about 6 hours. the radiator was still full and no signs of leaks - everything looked normal.
Within 10 seconds of starting the truck there was a rapid knocking... like numerous valves were suddenly out of adjustment or rod bearings crapped out. Shut it off and rechecked everything started it again. The oil pressure was steady at about 55psi. shut it off again.
With the serpentine belt off, oil pressure was good and there was no knocking. Put the belt on and the knocking returned. I also tried it with the fan removed and the belt on - still knocking.
Returned that water pump and got another and so far no problems. But I still wonder, if it was a bearing or maybe some impeller tolerance was off or what exactly in a water pump could cause a rapid knocking sound.
Last year around christmas i replaced the drivers side front wheel bearing no issues with that side. pass side wheel bearing started to growl changed it out test drove went smooth took the car for a 100 mile drive about 50 miles in and a little in town driving noticed a hum drove back at 55 mph humming the whole way i would turn to the right any amount and its would quiet up like nothing wrong straighten out or turn the wheels left it would hum figured i didn't press the bearing straight jacked it up to tear down shook the pass tire no excessive play went and shook drivers side noticed the 3 bolts that hold the strut to the mounting plate sheared off any thought i know i gotta get that bolted up before i diagnose any further think a free floating strut would sound like a wheel bearing?
View 3 Repliesi just did a new timing belt water pump kit on a 2001 1.8t (aug engine code) the new pump has a metal impeller. i ran it in the drive way for mots of an hour off and on. figured it was good. took it for a drive and at 5 miles it overheated. Temp Went straight to 260 and stop light came on. coolant could be heard boiling in the system. when i let it idle and ran the heater i got the temp to go back down to 190. but after idling for couple minutes it started going back up. I don't think the stat is bad considering that the heater works which shows that the system is flowing.
View 5 RepliesI have an 2002 which I bought new. It's got low millage, just over 92,000. I took it into the dealer for a free state inspection and was told that the water pump is leaking. Given the age I'm not too surprised although I don't know what the reliability is like on that part.
I want to verify myself that the water pump is actually leaking before having it replaced but don't know where it is or what to look for. Googling hasn't been too useful - I get lots of hits about the inverter pump, not the water pump.
I have not seen any signs of leaking on the ground under the car. There was no mention of the water pump leaking when I took it to the dealer at 90,000 for an oil change, with my original service advisor.
Is the water pump something that I can fairly easily inspect? Where do I find it and what do I look for?
My girlfriend has a jetta and I work at a DODGE dealership in service. I recently replaced the water pump and flushed the coolant twice and replaced the coolant with G13 coolant from the local VW dealership. After I finished burping the coolant system of air bubble. After I finished I took it for a spin and being the speed demon I am, I don't hold back on the throttle. I noticed immediately the engine lagging and being extremely sluggish. I ran my shops snap on code scanner on it and I came up with cylinder 1 fuel injector open circuit. Cylinder 6 fuel injector limited power. And last but not least o2 sensor 1 open circuit. If your facing the motor I undid the left motor mount from the frame, lifted the car on a hoist and took the bottom side motor mount off of the motor. I took the cv shaft off of the transmission and lowered the car and jacked the motor up by the oil pan to expose the water pump for removal and replacement. I'm wondering if possibly the o2 sensor could cause the ECU to seize power to two of the cylinders to ensure no engine damage or if its 3 separate problems.
View 3 Replies2002 Prius with 94K gave me today P3130, after I tested the Inverter Water Pump I found out that it bad but until I go to the dealer in order to buy the part $147 he was closed. the question is can I drive with the car like this bac home (65 miles) and if I turn on the A/C the Engine will work all the time right? And also after replacing the Inverter Water Pump how can i tell if the problem solved?
View 14 RepliesRecently blew the belt that runs the water pump, etc while on a vacation. Had to leave the car at a small mechanic in Winthrop, WA. He replaced the Water pump which had gone bad and the belt that shredded. The car ran beautifully for a week. Now there is this constant rattling sound coming from the water pump area. the link is a video with the sound. The sound will quicken as you accelerate. At cold start up it is usually not present then starts a couple of minutes in.
[URL] .....
Recently blew the belt that runs the water pump, etc while on a vacation. Had to leave the car at a small mechanic in Winthrop, WA. He replaced the Water pump which had gone bad and the belt that shredded. The car ran beautifully for a week. Now there is this constant rattling sound coming from the water pump area. I attached a video with the sound. The sound will quicken as you accelerate. At cold start up it is usually not present then starts a couple of minutes in.
View 2 RepliesNot sure if it was because I had the AC on..But after going thorough a car wash we noticed a noise when we turn right.
From the left-hand side of the dash when we turn right you hear a nice like..well at first I thought it sound like something moving, like the pouring of sand. Then we did it with the AC turned off and you could hear the sound of water moving.
I think the fan is making some contact with water when I turn right as water would move to the left side of the car and then perhaps make contact with something.
My power steering pump in my 05 Explorer 4.6L V8 is starting to howl it's displeasure on a cold start at near zero temperature. It doesn't do it when warm.
I thought I would change the fluid but the owners manual says to use Mercon ATF, but Ford now sells Mercon V as power steering fluid. It also warns not to mix the two kinds.
So, which one should I use? And, which way to change it, siphon pump the reservoir and replace with new a few times, or let the pump pump it out and replace as it goes?
I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty V8 7.3 L. I removed the water-pump then waited five days for the oring for the new pump. I installed it and now the truck will not start. I have drained the fuel water separator and replaced the filter. On the passengers side through the kick panel I found that button popped out so I pushed it back in and still it will not run. It acts like its not getting fuel but if my fuel water separator is filing up I'm assuming mu fuel pump is working??
View 7 RepliesStarting yesterday I noticed that I could hear a sloshing sound when I turn the car. It sounds like pouring water. After some driving around my neighborhood I've found that I hear the sloshing sound ONLY when the AC is on and when I turn left. It also has a sizzle sound that reminds me of dropping bacon in a hot pan.
I laid down in the floor and looked up under the dash. It looks like there's a motor and it's leaking water. That doesn't sound like a motor should be wet...The motor type thing appears to be a cylinder and says Bosch GM-M on it along with some numbers.
The carpet mat in the floor is getting a bit wet as well so that leads me to believe that something under there is leaking water and I can assume that it's leaking onto something hot creating the sizzle sound.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 96,000 miles and a brand new 2015 Hyundai Elantra.
It had been randomly sputtering for a couple of weeks before this and I thought that the fuel filter/pump was going out. So, I replaced that and when I turn the ignition on gas squirts out of the fuel pump so I know that is working. I then replaced the spark plugs because I don't think they had ever been replaced, but it still won't start.
When I turn the key everything sounds good, but it just won't start. I am trying to avoid having it towed to the shop until I exhaust the ability to fix it myself.
Son was unable to fill his car's gas tank, 2002 Elantra (but happens to all cars sometimes).
The vapor lock on the pump kept shutting the gas flow off.
This was caused by the tanks vapor exhaust being unable to exit while filling, so the only place to go was back up through the gas fill hole.
The charcoal filter had sprung a leak so the zillions of tiny little charcoal pellets pour from the filter into the rubber hose clogging it.
The Filter is $150 at Hyundai. Not available at AutoZone or OReilys.
Very simple to replace a couple bolts a few hose clamps.
Strange problem, thats no one at work had encoutnered before. A few Hyundai mechanics had heard of it and worked it before.
Also could be Purge Valve or Vent Valve solenoids...search EAP system too if your having this issue of not being able to fill your tank with gas, without 500000 vapor locks shutting the pump off!