Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Passenger Side Wheel Bearing Started To Growl
Sep 2, 2015
Last year around christmas i replaced the drivers side front wheel bearing no issues with that side. pass side wheel bearing started to growl changed it out test drove went smooth took the car for a 100 mile drive about 50 miles in and a little in town driving noticed a hum drove back at 55 mph humming the whole way i would turn to the right any amount and its would quiet up like nothing wrong straighten out or turn the wheels left it would hum figured i didn't press the bearing straight jacked it up to tear down shook the pass tire no excessive play went and shook drivers side noticed the 3 bolts that hold the strut to the mounting plate sheared off any thought i know i gotta get that bolted up before i diagnose any further think a free floating strut would sound like a wheel bearing?
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I have been having towing with the X. I have been getting a growl lately sounds like the front left wheel bearing. Today I jacked it up and did the wiggle text. I have a very slight wiggle in both wheels. Is a slight wiggle normal? I know the bearing on the left is more than likely gone as the growl goes away when I jerk the steering wheel. But I haven't heard any noise from the right side yet.
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My 2002 Elantra Gls 1.8 got some weird sound coming from all 4 corners of the wheel... Recently I had replaced the front wheel bearing as the car goes very noisy when come into corners... But there still some knock... knock... sound after the car warming up especially from rear wheel.
I replaced all 4 absorbers 1 year ago as well as the tie-rods end... Still facing the same problems, the mechanic also don't know where to start...
What should I replace to settle the problem??? All the rubber bush??? Recently mileage on my car is 190000miles.
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My passenger side wheel bearing is going out. I had a local company replace it under extended warranty 7 years and 90k miles back. I think I have gotten pretty good life out of it. I think it was from Napa but not positive. I try to grease then once a year but I'm not always successful.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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I have a 2007 the front wheel bearing started humming real bad, changed it out. Can't seem to get the right front brake bled good. Did it three times. No air. Today locked up the left wheel upon putting on the brake, the right one ain't working. Is there any thing I can do other than bleed the left front again, check fluid?
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So on my girlfriends 2000 echo I get the classic bad wheel bearing noise/vibration on the front left (driver side) wheel. Worsens under load (right turn) and goes away when unloaded (left turn). I've replaced left side bearing, CV axle, brake rotors/pads and the noise still persists. My next thought is maybe the ball joint but humming/vibration tells me something out of rotational balance. Bearing in the transmission? I don't know. I'm stuck.
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Not sure where to even start this but ill try to keep in concise. 03 gli 24v 6 speed. 125500 miles. At about 123500, i start noticing this slightly growly bearing sound at idle, without the clutch pedal pressed. When you press the clutch pedal, it goes away. Waited a bit, and at 125k, i replaced the clutch, flywheel, and throwout bearing, thinking it was a bad throwout bearing. It wasnt that.
Next, after more research, it seemed the 02m 6 speeds have had some issue with input shaft bearings wearing out making similar noises. So, pull the trans back out, and send it to APTuning in PA. Have new input shaft bearings, upper and lower pinion shaft bearings, and diff bearings put in. Even though they said they saw no major wear to be worried about in any of them. And here we are, left with the same noise.
One of the guys at APTuning said they had a case with one car where the thrust bearings wore so bad it made for a similar condition. Where the car would make unpleasant noise without the pedal pressed, and would go away when a load was put on it with the pedal. SO, i guess what im asking is, is there validity to that? What are the chances my otherwise seemingly fine 24v has this issue and end play is so bad that is causing this noise?
The noise gets NOTICEABLY louder when the car is hot. Its almost silent on cold starts. But after 15 miles or so it can be heard almost voice level with the windows down when you're stopped and idling; it really hurts to drive it being a caring owner hearing it. The motor is still in the car with all accessories so i can't check the end play scientifically. But to be fair, if this is plausible, and is the issue, i dont think it'd take precision to tell.
I'm so deep into this, and thought I've ruled out everything yet the noise persists. Really at a loss..
Listen around :30 where I start to cycle the clutch pedal. When I press it, you hear the main shaft "spin down" and the noise go away. When I release the pedal again, you here the clunk and the noise again. Its also been sitting for 3 hours. Good bit louder when hot [URL] .....
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I took my car in for what to me sounded like a wheel bearing noise. Dealer thinks the culprit is brakes need to be replaced. In addition to needing brakes I was told i need a throttle body service (service agent says it's needed every 15k for carbon buildup) and also a fuel tank vent filter ("needed every 2 yrs") are these legit repairs I should perform or is this a dealer shake down?
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I have a 2006 elantra. I just got it back from having a new clutch put in. My passenger side headlight, low beam, no longer works. I tried two different new bulbs and it still doesn't work. All the other lights on the car are working, including the high beam and running light on the passenger side. Is there something that would have been disconnected when they replaced the clutch? Is there something I should check?
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My Excursion has proved to be a reliable winter vehicle, as was the intention. A few weeks back, at 116,000 miles, the right front wheel bearing started to squeal around left turns. Not very loud, so I didn't think it was all that bad, just an indication it was going. I jacked up the front of the truck anyway for good measure, and found a tremendous amount of slop in the bearing. Yeah, the bearing had disintegrated. Time for a replacement.
I bought a new replacement hub off of eBay, and proceeded to start tearing into the thing. Should be an easy repair... Right.
The repair itself is actually straightforward, but I had a few little snags get in my way. The one I'm facing now is that the new hub did not come with replacement studs, and the old hub's studs will not come out. Yes, I tried using a torch (and failed). I got one removed, only to find it's a fine thread and possibly Metric. Either way, it's not something that they have at Lowes.
Where to get more of these, or what the size is so I can order some from McMaster?
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My power steering seems to have sprung a leak. There is quite a bit of fluid below the passenger side of the steering rack. The leak seems to be right below where the power steering hose comes down off the pump, gets secured to the chassis and changes to metal line from rubber. The metal line then goes into an L bend and is routed towards the driver side right where the leak apparently is.
I haven't had a chance to have a good look, as it was 10:30 at night when I parked it and looked (12km of careful city driving since it started to act up)
Is this a high pressure or return line?
The leak seems to be forward of the steering rack, so hopefully I wont have to replace it.
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I own a 2001 dodge stratus 2door. When I'm traveling at highway speeds my front passenger side wheel is having some issues. When I'm taking a bend toward the left I can feel and hear a tapping going on. Almost like driving on a rumble strip but much less intense. It's due for inspection this month and I'm just gathering thoughts.
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I have decent mechanical ability and recently took off both front wheel knuckles to have the wheel bearings pressed out and new ones back in. I own a 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 with 106,000 miles. I didn’t have much problem getting the wheel hub knuckles off and back on and after they were reinstalled with all bolts tightened, I took the car for a test drive and right away knew something was very wrong. I heard the sound of the drive-shaft CV joint boot twisting and there was a serious lack of power. The engine speed did not correspond with the vehicle speed. Continuing a little ways, small metal noises could be heard from the passenger side wheel. The only indication I had of some problem from that side was during the reinstallation of the drive shaft into the wheel hub. The CV joint dust boot was fully extended and didn’t compress like it should. I put the car back on jacks, took off the wheel and saw that the drive-shaft boot was all twisted. It was obvious that power was going through the drive-shaft past the first CV joint, but no power was making it past the second CV joint to the wheel.
Knowing that something was seriously wrong, I had it towed to Firestone down the road. The mechanic removed the boot and said that the drive-shaft had broke. I also inspected this and saw that the drive-shaft was not connected at the wheel hub. The morning of, the car was working just fine without problems. The tool I used to remove the drive shaft from the wheel hub was a Seven Ton Reversible Puller which I rented from O'Reilly's Auto store. The drive shaft was so stuck on, that I had to use an impact wrench to turn the bolt. Could the highly forced removal of the drive-shaft from the wheel hub shatter the CV joint on the drive-shaft?
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Having issues with noise from either LT or RT front wheel bearings? My 2011 Elantra has some sort of noise coming from the LT frt wheel
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I have recently replaced the clutch, clutch master cylinder, clutch slave cylinder, Strut tower mounts and brakes on my 2002 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. Everything is working properly but now I have a transmission fluid leak. I can not locate the exact location. It appears that it is dripping down onto the passenger side half axle where it connects at the transmission.
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I have a 2001 Subaru legacy outback station wagon that is making a rotational squeeking/screeching noise from a passenger side wheel (haven't determined which one). I hear the noise when I am going slow, below 20 mph, though I can't tell if it is still making the noise at higher speeds. It stops completely when I apply my brakes. The brakes and tires were replaced within the last 3 months, this noise has been occurring for much longer than that.
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My rear passenger tire spins easily and makes noise. Here is the link to video....
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I have a 2013 Elantra, new in January, 6600 miles on it, and I took it in to the dealership today because it was making funny noises this week from the left front wheel; the noise gets faster as I drive faster. The left front tire has a bubble in it, and they're telling me the wheel is bent and the bearing is cracked, so they'll need to replace the tire, wheel, hub, bearing and do something with the alignment AND it's not covered under warranty because it is "impact damage." Is this even possible on a new car like this? For the bearing to be cracked without a big accident? I don't remember hitting a pot hole or running over a curb. Shouldn't this be covered under normal use? I'm concerned that I'm being ripped off
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So, last week I got my transmission replaced and they also had to replace the CV axle because it was damaged beyond repair when the Transmission self-distructed. They drove it after all the repairs and said it was driving fine, just that it had a belt squeak.
On my way home (30 min drive) about 10 minutes in, still in the city, my brakes start making a grinding noise and sort of a thump thump thump when I brake which sounds like its coming from the passenger side front, it makes me really nervous. It doesn't sound like any brake grindy noise Ive ever heard before and it wasn't making any brake noises before it broke down. (On a side note: it also made a weird noise maybe the first 3 times I drove it after getting it back and I turned the wheel hard to back out of a parking space, that used to be when I heard the belt squeak but I haven't made it squeak since I got the car back.)
Everyone I talked to said it sounded like it needed new pads so tonight I bought new brake pads and rotors for the front and got everything taken apart. The rotors didn't look bad at all, just some light surface scratches, nothing deep, no warping I could see, and the brake pads look almost brand new. I did notice that the inside brake pad on the passenger side was missing its little metal plate that is usually between the caliper and the pad, so I went ahead and replaced all of the brake pads hoping this lost metal plate was the issue.
I also turned the rotor by hand on each side while the brake pads were off and the only difference I could notice was when turning the passenger side one it made a little more noise almost like it was loose.
I got everything put back together and drove around the neighborhood with my boyfriend in the car to listen, the grinding noise was gone and it seemed to brake really well (never got above 30 mph.) However, on my way to return the rotors to advanced auto (45-50 mph) it started making the thump thump thump noise but without the grinding, still on the passenger side. I can feel it in the gas pedal and now it not only happens when I'm braking, but also any time I let my foot off the gas pedal. The only time I dont feel/hear it is when I'm accelerating.
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After tracking a howling sound from my 02 elantra gt pulley are, I figured it to be the water pump bearing. I replaced the water pump less then a year and a half ago and was wondering if its common for aftermarket pumps to go fast? Or is there anything I did wrong installing?
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