Elantra XD (2001-06) :: Pedal Pulsates When Depress The Brake Lightly To A Stop


Aug 13, 2013

I have an issue that i have been trying to resolve. When i depress the brake lightly to a stop, the pedal pulsates. But if I depress a little harder it pulsates initially midway down and then it stops as i press harder to brake. (I hope this is easy to understand). so... press lightly, pulsates until I reach a stop. press firmly, pulsates briefly, then no pulsation until i reach a stop.

I have pretty much replaced everything. Calipers, rotors, pads, lnes, fluid, hardware. lugs are torqued to 100ftlbs.

Also the caliper is not sticking the problem persists even after I replaced the calipers. I am left at a total loss here. I cant think of anything else. One thing that i noticed is, the LUGS are really hot to the touch after driving it for 15 min or so.

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New 2013 Elantra owner here.. When initially depressing the brake pedal lightly (before the brake pads engage, usually in stop-and-go traffic), I can feel a rubbing sensation coming from somewhere in the pedal assembly. If it's quiet, I can also hear a groaning sound. This definitely isn't a pad/rotor issue, rather something closer to the pedal itself and inside or near the cabin.

Took it to the dealership and after some coaxing and insistence that it wasn't "normal," they finally said it was the brake switch and replaced it. Seemed to alleviate the problem for a week or so, but now it's back!

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I've been having a randomly recurring problem with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra for several months now. I'll be driving along and will notice that my brake pedal won't depress. When I step off of the accelerator, it is like the brakes are already engaged. Eventually, the brake pedal won't depress at all and the car acts like the brakes are fully engaged. Sometimes I can let it sit for an hour or several hours and the brakes will readjust and I can move again. So far I have replaced both calipers, rotors, 2 brake hoses and the master cylinder, but I am still having this problem. My mechanic is flummoxed. Any time I have the car towed in, the brakes release by the time it arrives and he has no problem to observe.

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Golf IV / Jetta IV :: 2001 - Brake Pedal Engages At Normal Depress Spot Then Depresses More?

2001 2.0

251,xxx km

Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.

If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.

What should I try first?

I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.

I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.

Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.

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Celica :: 1992 - Brake Pedal Pulsates At A Rate Directly Proportional To How Fast Car Is Going

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The brake pedal pulsates at a rate directly proportional to how fast the car is going. How violent the pulsing is depends on how hard you apply the pedal but even at less than 5mph and even when barely applying the brake you can feel it in the pedal.

I've had this before on other vehicles and the fix was swapping rotors. Rotors are cheap enough for it so I changed the front and then the rear with no real change from either swap. As part of the swap I wire brushed the face of the hubs to make sure there wasn't rust buildup on them. Replaced a wheel bearing on the passenger front as it had some play in it. Swapped tie rod ends as they had some play. Bled brakes enough to refresh the fluid.

The changes have made it drive a little better (at least I like to think they did) but the pedal is almost completely unchanged.

I think that to feel it in the pedal it has to be an irregularity in the rotor or something else causing the piston in the caliper to move.

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Brakes feel fine once the ignition is turned on. I was told there's no issue with driving it, but I'm not so sure I trust what I was told.

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Got Elantra GT 6 month ago. Good car, but it seems I have a very common problem of Elantras - lost of brakes. My car has TCS, but no ABS. It started 4 month ago. Car is fine for several weeks, but then within two days brake pedal getting from bad to worse. My mechanic already replaced master cylinder and right rear caliper. Did not work. Yesterday it was third time when I almost (very soft pedal) lost brakes. Today in Hyundai dealer service they bled the brakes and said "that they hope it will work". Their mechanic found air in both (left and right) rear brake lines. So, my question if I have a leak in, say, left line will it propagate to the right line? I am asking because I do not know the hydraulic schema of the brakes and want to collect as much info as possible.

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Very recently the brake pedal in my car has been stiff (won't depress all of the way down) after starting up the car when it's been sitting for a while. It takes a few presses of pedal for it to feel normal again.

I did some research and turned up a vacuum leak as a possible cause. I also wondered if a flush/bleed would be a possible fix for something like this.

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I've been noticing an odd noise in the brake pedal in our '03 Santa Fe. I don't hear it all the time (almost never on the highway), but especially hear it in stop-and-go traffic. It's sort of a whirr, a "RRrrr". I've googled and watched YT videos and it's definitely not a hissing sound or a grinding sound, nor do I notice any difference in the brakes' responsiveness.

I'm apprehensive of taking it to the dealer for service because I only plan to have this vehicle for at most three more weeks. Have only held onto it this long because we couldn't afford to replace it until we sold our house-- which we've just done, and are about to move to a city about an hour away on 7/5. We'll trade in the car within a couple of weeks of moving.

The noise is definitely from the pedal and isn't anything like squeaking brake pads (I currently live in the DC metro area, so squeaky brakes become very familiar with all the stop-start traffic!). The videos I've found that point to a booster problem have a decided hiss, and it's not that either. Don't want to be unsafe in the time we've got left, but also don't want to throw another thousand bucks (every time something breaks in that darn thing, it always seems like it's about $800) into a car we won't have in a month's time.

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